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The charging lock mechanism failure has finally caught up with me, gate crashing the service centre today.
 
Woah, imagine getting that after the warranty expired! If keeping the car until it reaches the end of its useful life, an extended warranty isn't a bad idea. Did Hyundai go into detail about what was wrong with the drive unit?
No detaisl other than it was replaced on Hyundai's recommendation. The EPB failure warning has not appeared since.
 
2020 premium SE.
1) Intermittent creaking from rear when going over bumps, initially I thought this was a loose rear seat U fixing, but now I am fairly sure it's coming from the hatchback itself. Have seen other people had similar issues, will let dealer know at first service in Feb.
2) Flat 12 volt, 5 times, 4 trips to dealer. First 3 times no apparent cause, battery changed at second time. At the last occurrence an error code pointed them to the passenger side door locks which had no/faulty water proofing on the electrical contacts shorting them out and keeping the car awake. Several of these happened after rain or washing the car.
3) Loose hinge on offside passenger side rear seat with plastic cone bush found loose in the hinge, sorted on one of the many trips to sort out the 12volt.
Update
1) The creaking seems to be coming from the hard black plastic bump stops on the hatchback and car on the passenger side (not the back edge) rubbing together, likely this is poor hatch alignment. If I look very critically at the panel gap between hatch and rear wings, the passenger side gap is about 1 or so mm larger than the drivers side which is consistent. The dealer fitted adjustable screw in stops on the back edge to replace the fixed ones but these didn't totally fix it. I've glued a thin piece of black rubber onto the passenger side bump stop on the down channel and this has fixed it. Maybe I'll ask them to realign the hatch in the future or maybe won't bother if my simple fix works longer term. I have seen others say that hatch alignment was the key to their creaking.
2) All the doors electrics have now been waterproofed by covering exposed electrical pins with mastic so hopefully that will fix the vampire drain. The passenger side doors were done late last year. Because at the first service in Jan, I complained that I had 2 instances of getting into the car ok, then not having enough juice for the car to boot up, the dealer agreed this time to look at the drivers doors. They found a ' few droplets of water' in the electric mechanisms so fixed that. At the moment the car is garaged most of the time and because I'm not really going anywhere at the mo, it hasn't been fully tested by leaving it out in the rain overnight multiple times but I'm a lot more hopeful.
3) fixed as above
4) Schedule charge failure. Dealer says this could have been a mismatch between different 'clocks' in different parts of the software being out of sync but that doesn't seem particularly convincing to me. They updated the car to the latest software which they say might fix it. So far it's fine, but I've only done a few scheduled charges to date. It will need a lot more to convince me it's fixed. When I start doing longer trips and need 100% in the morning I will be checking the charging has started before going to bed!

Hope this is useful
Cheers
 
I couldn't find anywhere actual photos of the cells on google, and I really searched a lot before posting to this thread.

For others interested in using the Ioniq batteries in solar projects, the Ioniq (at least 2018 - 2019) batteries are configured in banks of 10 and 6 cells, each bank has an plastic case with + an - terminals and also an BMS connector.

The plastic case can be easily removed, but each cells connectors are welded together, and only the first and last cell of each bank has an screw hole in it's terminals.

I will post some photos of actual cells, and also of the 10cell and 6cell bank
 

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That is fantastic we get to see much closer and detailed view of the battery pack, thank you for sharing. How is the battery pack removed, is it dropped down from the bottom of the car? Wondering because of the way it's air cooled from the cabin, how does it keep a seal from the outside.
 
Hy, yesterday I received the 2018 Ioniq battery and already started to dissasembly it, will post some photos bellow, and as my progress advances will post other photos too
Top of entire battery



There are 3 big connectors , one on top, on on the backside and one on the front side



CMU (cell monitoring unit)


Top cover removed



I like alot how the airflow part is designed, in the main battery there are a total of 192 pouch cells, there are 2 pouch cells wired in parallel, both inside an aluminum case, those cases are stacked one over another, and there is a gap of 4mm between aluminum cases, the airflow goes between all those aluminum cases, so each pouch cell is cooled by the air that passes over it or under it. Bellow you can see a part of a 20 pouch cells pack, configured in 2p10s. The ioniq has 6 big packs 2p10s and another 6 smaller packs in 2p6s configuration.


Each pack, has on one side an heating foil, this is probably used in the winter time, I'm sure it won;t start charging the packs before the cells reach a normal temperature for charging (know that my drones don't start if the cells are under 5degrees C)


I'll post more photos if anyone is still interested, just ask :)

 
Dissasembling a 10cell battery pack.
You will need a longer than normal T10 Torx tool to remove the 9 screws, than remove the bottom foam, starting from a corner it can be easily peeled off from the bottom of the pack.


Than you can separate the two plastic cases


An here are the pouch cells, welded toghether, 2 in parallel and than 10 times in series

 
2018 EV and here's my list so far at 31,000 KM. Beginning not to like the outlook for long term reliability with my Ioniq EV if things keep mounting.

1. Driver's side door handle keyless entry button went dead. Replaced.
2. Charge Actuator went bad. Replaced.
3. Brake problem. IBAU going bad, going to get replaced soon.

I have a few other intermittent annoying problems which I left out too.

I'd consider the first minor and the other two major deals. Imagine these go bad out of warranty, it'll cost more than $3500 out of pocket. And factor in having to deal with bad dealers who don't want to do work and going to the next place, and going back and forth is a hassle and having to take days off work.

If things keep mounting up and if these problems come back and need early replacement again, I might look to sell the car and possibly not continue with Hyundai for another decade or two once they improve their long term reliability.

I think I'm eventually going to have to go in regarding the air conditioner, which I read is another thing other Ioniq owners have had to deal with. Seems this part fails too prematurely.
 
My 2018 BEV IONIQ with 118,000km on the clock has only had an issue with the driver side door button which was replaced under warrantee. Everything else (touch wood) has been brilliant. Most reliable, least maintenance car, I've ever owned.

OB
 
Had an issue with the Smart Cruise Control today. A red triangle with an exclamation mark appeared on the dash and the display said the conditions for smart control could not be met. Thirty seconds later the triangle disappeared and everything went back to normal.
I also had this a while back, but then again I’m sure it was caused by the weather conditions (it was raining cats and dogs).
 
Bought my 2018 Ioniq in May this year from main agent, 18 k on the clock, the next day it broke and they kept it for 6 weeks as there were no parts in the country supposedly, parts needed were the EPCU plus high voltage fusable link and some other stuff that failed when the EPCU went wonky, total cost was near 6 grand so they said, be getting a warranty in a couple of years or a newer car.
 
Button on drivers side door stopped working. Under warranty so will get fixed for free. 2 years of warranty left though ...
 
2018 EV and here's my list so far at 31,000 KM. Beginning not to like the outlook for long term reliability with my Ioniq EV if things keep mounting.

1. Driver's side door handle keyless entry button went dead. Replaced.
2. Charge Actuator went bad. Replaced.
3. Brake problem. IBAU going bad, going to get replaced soon.

I have a few other intermittent annoying problems which I left out too.

I'd consider the first minor and the other two major deals. Imagine these go bad out of warranty, it'll cost more than $3500 out of pocket. And factor in having to deal with bad dealers who don't want to do work and going to the next place, and going back and forth is a hassle and having to take days off work.

If things keep mounting up and if these problems come back and need early replacement again, I might look to sell the car and possibly not continue with Hyundai for another decade or two once they improve their long term reliability.

I think I'm eventually going to have to go in regarding the air conditioner, which I read is another thing other Ioniq owners have had to deal with. Seems this part fails too prematurely.
Wanted to reply to my own post as an update I've gotten my IBAU replaced which resolved the annoying clicking noise and excessive hissing noise while using the brake pedal and it's also not as spongy as before. One of the stickers on the unit says Ver. 6.7 though I didn't remember to see what the old one from the factory was. Doh.

Let's hope nothing else goes wrong.

Edit Sep 21: Oh my goodness I spoke too soon. The brake noise with the pedal has returned and gotten worse than before. Can't believe this.
 
Edit Sep 21: Oh my goodness I spoke too soon. The brake noise with the pedal has returned and gotten worse than before. Can't believe this.
Crap man, you're having terrible luck with your IONIQ. Certainly not what most IONIQ owners are experiencing.
 
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Crap man, you're having terrible luck with your IONIQ. Certainly not what most IONIQ owners are experiencing.
It's so strange. The noise came back 7 days later with new IBAU but now a metal sounding screeching noise.

Forward to the next morning, it appears to have lessened substantially, almost back to nothing.

So it appears to be intermittent now. I think it seems to happen when the car is sitting in the heat. Come morning time it's cold and doesn't seem to happen is what I think is happening.

Maybe system needs to be flushed multiple times.

Dealer visit #3 coming up...
 
It's so strange. The noise came back 7 days later with new IBAU but now a metal sounding screeching noise.

Forward to the next morning, it appears to have lessened substantially, almost back to nothing.

So it appears to be intermittent now. I think it seems to happen when the car is sitting in the heat. Come morning time it's cold and doesn't seem to happen is what I think is happening.

Maybe system needs to be flushed multiple times.

Dealer visit #3 coming up...
Keep us posted. I'm interested to hear how this turns out. My IONIQ has over 120k km on it and so except for the battery and power train, is now out of warrantee.
 
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Unfortunately, my ioniq is a bit problematic, fortunately I was able to deal with the problems myself.The problem with the gearbox, I replaced the bearings. Non-standard bearings, I used additional spacers and good quality bearings with standard dimensions.
I also had a problem with the heat pump compressor. Similarly to the transmission, poor bearings, also non-standard ones, changed to good quality standard dimensions with spacers. The electric 3-way valve for the coolant was also damaged. The last problem is the play on the steering gear. The steering gear fits Kony much cheaper.I hope that I have dealt with the problems for now. Fortunately, the repairs did not cost me a lot. I have been using the car for a year.I have driven 20,000 km. I am the second owner and the car has a mileage of 90,000 km
 
Right front door makes a screeching noise when opened or closed. Sometimes it disappears...and comes back later. It does not come from gasket, and the hinges have been oiled and greased in Hyundai service. No big deal but lowers the feeling of quality quite a lot.
it's the gasket : after cleaning, it disappears (ioniq4 06/2020)
 
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