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List Ioniq EV breakdown and repairs

50K views 105 replies 44 participants last post by  framerate 
#1 ·
Wanted to have a list of breakdowns/issues and the needed repair that users have had with the Ioniq EV. Please include year and trim of vehicle. My goal will be to create a spreadsheet with types of real world issues and repairs.
 
#5 ·
The cable inside the boot for opening charge port flap door has problem, one of the inner pully has failed and the cable became lose. Dealer was willing to repair it without charge.

Once changing the cabin airflow direction from blowing forward to demist the wind screen, a strange stepping motor noise occurred within the dashboard, I was unable to replicate it at dealer place (typical!!! ), even though I had a video to proof the iaaue. It hasn't come back to annoy me yet.
 
#8 ·
Right front door makes a screeching noise when opened or closed. Sometimes it disappears...and comes back later. It does not come from gasket, and the hinges have been oiled and greased in Hyundai service. No big deal but lowers the feeling of quality quite a lot.
 
#11 ·
Had an issue with the Smart Cruise Control today. A red triangle with an exclamation mark appeared on the dash and the display said the conditions for smart control could not be met. Thirty seconds later the triangle disappeared and everything went back to normal.
 
#15 ·
2017 EV Elite model - ongoing issues with charger cable not disengaging. Petrol cap doesn't open anymore. Manual override for petrol cap doesn't work. Manual override cable for charger disengagement is totally stuffed (cable kinda unravelled when I pulled it) and needs replacing. I'm a female, so I doubt it broke through brute force.

Also the brakes clamp every time I pull away from park mode and the car makes a funny, loud noise. Hyundai Greenlane told me this is 'normal'. :rolleyes: They also charged me $270 for my first service (brand new car) and changed the brake fluid. Is this normal to change the brake fluid so early? I thought my service costs would go down with an EV, not up....
 
#16 ·
My 2018 EV pulls away smoothly and without noise, so yours is definitely not normal.

I was wondering how you charge the car if you can't get the charge door open?

My first service is due next month, and as I understand it, it's just a tick box exercise and software update. Clunking brakes and changing fluid sounds a little suspicious to me.

Anyone else think that she's being fobbed off because she's a woman?

Do you know much about cars? If not it may be an idea to take a friend or work colleague who is knowledgeable about cars with you when you take the car back to get the issues fixed. They may be able to tell if you are being fleeced.
 
#22 ·
Yep...got the master warning light both times it's happened . Though thinking back I did have the warning come up once on a clear day about a month ago which, like your experience , cleared itself . Only time that's happened in 38000 miles so I put it down to a minor glitch after checking that the front sensor plate was clean and undamaged
 
#23 ·
It sounds t

It sounds to me that when the car knows it can't fulfil all of the conditions to apply the Smart Cruise Control, it puts up the master warning until it knows that it can, thus clearing itself. Thinking back, it was when approaching a traffic island and there may have been multiple radar echoes confusing the system.
 
#25 ·
So I'm in a group with four other 2018 Ioniq EV owners in Singapore. There's only one trim level here. It doesn't have a name, but it has all the bells and whistles, including Sunroof. So far, between the 5 of us, we've experienced:
  • One faulty reverse camera - replaced under warranty
  • One replaced steering column (dunno what was the issue) - under warranty
  • The snapping noise when moving off after disengaging the parking brake. Some of us have it worse than others, and there is a definite correlation with parking with the brakes wet and leaving it there for a while. - dealer maintains this is normal and nothing can be done about it. Design issue I guess...
  • Two cases of "unable to charge" due a faulty charge plug locking mechanism - replaced under warranty
  • Mine had something loose under the drivers seat. It wasn't the seat, itself, but every slightly-sharp turn left or right something would go "thunk" under my butt. Maybe the seat ventilation fan or something. - repaired under warranty.
  • One faulty left-front wheel speed sensor. This manifested itself with a lot of lights and warnings on the dash. All the driver aids were disabled. And regen was disabled. The car still drove fine, though with terrible consumption and a very heavy brake pedal. - replaced under warranty.
 
#27 · (Edited)
Here's my list after 18 months of ownership at 60,000+km.
Model: 2018 Ioniq EV SE w/ Cold Climate Package

-------------------------------------------------------------------------

- 110V charging cable has a blue seal on the inside of the connector that seized up after one year of everyday use. The result is not being able to plug it in to the car. Dealership lubricated it, which gave me a month's additional use, but eventually it got stiff again. They eventually replaced it.

- Motor bearing failure. Dealership replaced the entire motor. Required a rental for one month.

- Driver-side proximity button failure. Dealership replaced the entire door handle.

- Head unit, multiple issues: persistent "Subscription Updated. Press Enter to Continue" popup, very annoying. Intermittently no volume until car is power cycled. Recently, clock disappeared (shows "- - : - -" for the time). This has impacted scheduled charge times and pre-conditioning. Dealership is about to replace the head unit.

- Wife backed into the garage and struck garage frame with the driver-side mirror causing a crack in the mirror casing. Owner is replacing the wife :)
 
#33 ·
Not really a fault, but I just baffled the heck out of the map by zooming in and zooming out. When I zoomed back in, Cardiff was next to Antwerp, and when I moved around the map I was in Bury upon Tweed! Everything corrected itself when I started moving again. Anyone else noticed this?
 
#35 ·
Hi, I have an Ioniq EV "Elite" early 2019 model, blue color.
I have done about 8,500 km so far, and have not had any issues until a few days ago.

I am telling this is great detail to help anyone else who may have the same issue. In my case it was a lack of knowledge about the car and then misreading the manual. OK, I am a complete idiot, and should have known better.

I mostly charge my car at home using the "trickle" charger, which in my case is 10 Amp x 240 V which is around 2.4 kw/hour. When I went to remove the charger one morning, ( normally, unlock button on remote, and remove charger cable ) nothing happened. I tried locking the car and unlocking --- with no luck. The Charger was not going to disconnect.

I was out of time, so I locked the car and drove my ICE van to work.

The next day I had some time to try and get it unstuck, and tried various methods mentioned by others on this forum, and elsewhere but none of these ideas helped. I carefully read the manual, and tried to find the emergency disconnect cable mentioned in posts and online. It seemed to indicate that it was near the 12v Battery in the bonnet, but I was unable to locate it.

I rang the roadside assist (This service came with the care ) and about an hour later, and NRMA van pulled up. ( NRMA is the widest used service for roadside assist in NSW, Australia where I live and Hyundai had some arrangement with them ) The roadside assist guy had never seen an ioniq before, and did not look like he had any training at all (I am not surprised by this), and bothof us tried to find the emergency release. He checked the 12 v battery and said it was low, it was 11.4 v .... ummmmmm.

He left, suggesting that I might have to get a tow to Hyundai. I tried to ring support at the dealer by because it was the weekend, nobody in their support section was around.

I turned to the manual again, and discovered that there were several places where the emergency release cable might be, depending on model etc . After some exploration, I looked for one in the middle of the boot under the mat, and almost gave up ( The diagram in the manual was not clear ) when I pulled up more of the panels under the mat and found the emergency release.
I pulled it a little more than"slightly" I think the manual said, and IT WORKED!!! Yeah!

I now have the cable out, but the car wont let me go anywhere as the battery was flat. I got all sorts of false warnings and the electronics was obviously in a bad state. I assumed the flat battery was the issue here and looked to the manual which said that plugging the cable back in and charging for 10 hours will fix a flat battery, which is what I did. This worked, and the car is working fine again.

I am a software engineer, and I would speculate that the original charger cable lockup could possibly be a software issue. I vaguely remember the buttons on the remote must have activated in my pocket, I could hear the lock/unlock cycle a few times when i was walking up to the car. This may have put the car is an unexpected state, and somehow stopped it unlocking the charger, thus only the emergency cable could release it.
Because I left the car for a day with the charger plugged in ( and disconnected from the domestic supply ) this ran the battery down and left me with both a stuck charger cable and an almost flat 12v battery.

Anyway, I how this helps someone who gets into the same situation.
 
#36 ·
To summarize: BEV/PHEV owners should locate the charging cord manual release before something like this happens. Good advice! Same could be said about using the mechanical key for all Ioniq owners - that also takes some practice before you can do it efficiently when you really need to get into a dead car.
 
#45 ·
Whoops! This just happened when the wife closed the rear door after putting her bag on the back seat. Hopefully it'll be under warranty because there was no damage to the handle. It looks like the plastic cracked around the bolt. Anyone else had this? I'm going to email these images to the local dealer if I can and see what they say.
 

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#53 ·
I have a 2017 Ioniq EV Limited with 62,000 miles in SoCal, US. No issues except, lately it makes a few loud thump noise initially after starting the vehicle cold and driving over a driveway or a speed bump in the parking lot. It goes away after it's driven. Its coming from the rear right side of the vehicle. It sounds like the strut. I took it into the dealer but they said my full service coverage expired at 50,000 miles so decided not to investigate any further.
 
#54 · (Edited)
I guess I should add myself too here for the charging port lock problem on Ioniq EV. Today. Plugged it on a public CCS to charge and it just made some buzzing sound from the socket and did not lock, did not start charging. Tried several times (tried the AC Type 2 plug too), that buzzing every time and doesn't start charging. Finally while wife was plugging it in, I yanked the wire in the boot several times and it locked and started charging.
 
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