[Juhani]

Have any photo of which gasket you are talking about?

It may well be the gasket, actually. Door gasket/main seal. Put silicon based something near mirror where the gasket meets frame when closing.

 

[framerate]

Just wanted to add to this thread that my 28kwh 2017 Ioniq Electric with about 80k km on odometer fully broke down on the road while driving in May

I was driving on a smaller road and was about to overtake a slower driver when abruptly all my torque was cut off

In fact it was so abruptly that it felt like a shaft had broken straight off

However what really happen was that car was put in neutral and from this point on I was coasting along only by the inertia of the car

Luckily there was a bus-stop coming up where I managed to park (no regen only physical breaks)

Tried to put car back in drive, but it wouldn't allow me

Had previously red about problems with 12V battery without having problems myself but tried disconnecting 12V battery for 5 minutes but nothing did the trick

This was about 12 in the night and I had to stop a random car to call a family member because my phone ran out of juice

When family member arrived we tried using jumper-cables but car was still stuck in neutral

In the end car was towed back home to family member, and I left 12V battery to charge overnight still thinking this was the problem

When this did not work, I had to leave the car where it was to leave for work the next day on a 2-hour train ride

Same day I got road-assist to tow car to the closest Hyundai-dealer that I had talked to prior to the tow

After a week they told me they had to transfer the car to a different dealer because they lacked high voltage certification

Even thought car was still under warranty I was told not to be given a courtesy car

Reason given was that car was originally sold in Sweden and was later registered in Norway (car was bought second-hand by me in Norway, so this was new information)

6 week after car was towed to dealership and after many phone calls I got to pick it up again after another 2 hour train ride back to dealership

Turned out the problem was faulty power relay assembly which they replaced under warranty (although they where very hesitant to document the fact)

I know this power relay assembly is subjected to a recall on the Ioniq Hybrid but my car is the fully electric variant

Cant find any other reports of any power relay assemblies breaking down in this thread nor any other place online

Good thing this did not happen on my 3000km road trip last summer

 

[brianthesnail]

1. Charging at only 5kwh using level 2 (should be 7.2kwh)

I know this is an old thread, but did you ever get to the bottom of this? I have a new 2021 model which is doing the same.

 

[framerate]

Just wanted to add to this thread that my 28kwh 2017 Ioniq Electric with about 80k km on odometer fully broke down on the road while driving in May

I was driving on a smaller road and was about to overtake a slower driver when abruptly all my torque was cut off

In fact it was so abruptly that it felt like a shaft had broken straight off

However what really happen was that car was put in neutral and from this point on I was coasting along only by the inertia of the car

Luckily there was a bus-stop coming up where I managed to park (no regen only physical breaks)

Tried to put car back in drive, but it wouldn't allow me

Had previously red about problems with 12V battery without having problems myself but tried disconnecting 12V battery for 5 minutes but nothing did the trick

This was about 12 in the night and I had to stop a random car to call a family member because my phone ran out of juice

When family member arrived we tried using jumper-cables but car was still stuck in neutral

In the end car was towed back home to family member, and I left 12V battery to charge overnight still thinking this was the problem

When this did not work, I had to leave the car where it was to leave for work the next day on a 2-hour train ride

Same day I got road-assist to tow car to the closest Hyundai-dealer that I had talked to prior to the tow

After a week they told me they had to transfer the car to a different dealer because they lacked high voltage certification

Even thought car was still under warranty I was told not to be given a courtesy car

Reason given was that car was originally sold in Sweden and was later registered in Norway (car was bought second-hand by me in Norway, so this was new information)

6 week after car was towed to dealership and after many phone calls I got to pick it up again after another 2 hour train ride back to dealership

Turned out the problem was faulty power relay assembly which they replaced under warranty (although they where very hesitant to document the fact)

I know this power relay assembly is subjected to a recall on the Ioniq Hybrid but my car is the fully electric variant

Cant find any other reports of any power relay assemblies breaking down in this thread nor any other place online

Good thing this did not happen on my 3000km road trip last summer

Come to think of it I took a photo of the error message: Check electric vehicle system

 

[A bit Ioniq]

Wanted to have a list of breakdowns/issues and the needed repair that users have had with the Ioniq EV. Please include year and trim of vehicle. My goal will be to create a spreadsheet with types of real world issues and repairs.

2020 38 KW battery pack. 12volt battery died because it was manufactured in 2019 and sat in the car in a cold environment before I got it. Charge port lock pin, AC would charge fine, DC charger require the charging lead to be locked in so car would not charge on DC.

 

[framerate]

This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
This message is awaiting moderator approval, and is invisible to normal visitors.

Apparently posting in old threads is not desirable, so I made a new thread

 

[Robeszko]

Hi, tegnap megkaptam a 2018-as Ioniq akkumulátort, és már elkezdtem szétszedni, felteszek néhány fotót alább, és ahogy haladok előre, további képeket is teszek közzé
A teljes akkumulátor teteje

View attachment 33669

3 nagy csatlakozó található, egy felül, a hátoldalon és egy az elülső oldalon

View attachment 33670

CMU (cellafigyelő egység)
View attachment 33671 View attachment 33672

A felső burkolat eltávolítva

View attachment 33673 View attachment 33674

Nagyon tetszik a légáramlási rész kialakítása, a fő akkumulátorban összesen 192 tasakos cella van, 2 párhuzamosan vezetékezett tasakos cella van, mindkettő alumínium tokban, ezek a tokok egymásra vannak rakva, és van egy 4 mm-es rés az alumínium tokok között, a légáramlás az összes alumínium tok között megy, így minden tasakcellát a felette vagy alatta áthaladó levegő hűt. Az alábbiakban egy 20 tasak cellás csomag egy része látható, 2p10s-ben konfigurálva. Az ioniq 6 nagy 2p10-es és további 6 kisebb csomaggal rendelkezik 2p6s konfigurációban.
View attachment 33675

Mindegyik csomag egyik oldalán fűtőfólia van, ezt valószínűleg télen használják, biztos vagyok benne, hogy ez sikerülni fog; ne kezdje el tölteni a csomagokat, mielőtt a cellák elérik a normál töltési hőmérsékletet (tudd meg, hogy a drónjaim nem indulnak el ha a cellák hőmérséklete 5°C alatt van)
View attachment 33676

További képeket teszek fel, ha valakit még érdekel, kérdezzen

View attachment 33677
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