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need to mention, that i use a 1/4W 62Ohm resistor.
i am trying to think if changing to 1/2W or 1W could solve this problem.

Any insights ? ideas ?
I measured voltage between PP/CP and PE. It is only 0.8 volt for 62 Ohm resistor between PP/CP and PE, the wattage of the resistor is W = V*I = V*V/R = 0.8*0.8/62 = 0.01 Watt.
Therefore, it is very safe to use 1/4W 62Ohm resistor and no need to change to 1/2W or 1W.
 

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I measured voltage between PP/CP and PE. It is only 0.8 volt for 62 Ohm resistor between PP/CP and PE, the wattage of the resistor is W = V*I = V*V/R = 0.8*0.8/62 = 0.01 Watt.
Therefore, it is very safe to use 1/4W 62Ohm resistor and no need to change to 1/2W or 1W.
Yes, I too measured 0.75V on a DC voltmeter. However, there may be an AC waveform present which will not register on the DC meter. Additionally, the voltage may change depending on the circumstance. ie Ready to supply, plug lock on, supplying voltage, unlatch. An oscilloscope would need to be connected throughout the entire process to see what is really happening. As well as all that, the system is controlled by the car 12V battery. It is even possible that the whole 12V may appear at some point across the resistor. The pictures of the Hyundai supplied V2L plug shows resistors of considerable physical size, what I would call at least 1 Watt size. As an abundance of caution, the V2L units that I am making have 3 Watt resistors - just to be on the safe side. 12V across 62 Ohm produces Around 2.4 Watts. Nonetheless it seems many folk are using low power resistors and seem, so far, to be getting away with it.
 

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I know this is off topic, however since this thread has a lot of technical expertise and followers with a Official or DIY V2L adapter, I was hoping someone could test something for me. Please see the below scenario:
  • Purpose: Validate the below statement provided by a District Service Manager:
    Rectangle Font Circle Brand Paper product


  • Reason: Found on an EV6 forum that the above statement might not be true. I have frequent power outages, so the V2L feature with a higher rating is a big factor in my buying decision.
  • Requirement: US market Ioniq 5 Limited with both the rear seat outlet and the external V2L adapter
  • Test: Run two simultaneous loads, one load for each outlet (internal and external). Both loads would ideally be around 1500 watts each. Note to run both outlets at the same time does require following a special process:
    Font Number Rectangle Terrestrial plant Screenshot
I do not have an Ioniq 5 yet, however I have a second chance to possibly get a Limited edition soon.

I would greatly appreciate if someone in the US can test the above.
 

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i'm doing a test.
i've bought a Type2 connector already supplied with a cable.
based on the pics from people who bought it, there are screws to open the handle.
the idea is to save the soldering part(of the big pins) and just add the switch, led, and resistor.


there is also one with a TYPE1 (US market) handle


OK...
this was super fast. the item arrived in 8 days from China to Israel.
take a look at the attached pictures.

PP and PE is already connected with a resistor (the blue line coming out of PP and connected via the shrink plastic to the red wire that goes into PE)

CP goes from the pin, all the way to the end of the cable. (we don't need it at the end of the cable)

so... within 10-20 minutes, you could have a V2L...

1. cut the pp-pe connection right at the shrink plastic. remove the plastic and the old resistor.
2.cut the cp red wire that goes from the pin. leave enough length
3.get a simple 12V rocker on-off switch. create a hole in the handle and secure it
3. connect pp (blue) to one side of a new 62ohm 1/2w resistor, the other side of the resistor connect to 2 wires: one is the red wire that originally goes to the PE (so we're actually replacing the resistor with a new one) and another new wire to be connected to one leg of the switch
4. the other leg of the switch, connect to the red thin wire that we cut in step 2 (connected to CP)

put a shrink isolation plastic on the connections (covering the new resistor)

your're done in the handle. we will not put a led light here (you could if you want) in order not to cut the original L, N wires coming out of the pins.

connect the end of the cable to whatever port splitter you want. you could but one with a led light or add one there.

so besides the small soldering of the resistor, you dont need to do anything.

this is all for the Type2 Connector.
it would be great if people that did the type1 V2L could elaborate here what needs to be done.
links to the items:
type 2

type 1

rocker switch with easy wiring

62ohm 1/2w resistor

shrinking isolation sleeve

drill bit, for the switch

led light 220v

and if you're at it.. a multimeter for 10$

dont forget to get the coupons on the item's page, and also try the coupons here
AliExpress promo codes and coupon - AliExpress

the pictures here, are before working on them.
will post more, after i get the rocker switch i've ordered

enjoy.
Bicycle tire Automotive tire Bicycle part Bicycle handlebar Rim
Gadget Electrical wiring Electronic engineering Audio equipment Cable
Bicycle Bicycles--Equipment and supplies Bicycle handlebar Bicycle tire Bicycle frame
Rectangle Font Parallel Pattern Circle
 

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OK...
this was super fast. the item arrived in 8 days from China to Israel.
take a look at the attached pictures.

PP and PE is already connected with a resistor (the blue line coming out of PP and connected via the shrink plastic to the red wire that goes into PE)

CP goes from the pin, all the way to the end of the cable. (we don't need it at the end of the cable)

so... within 10-20 minutes, you could have a V2L...

1. cut the pp-pe connection right at the shrink plastic. remove the plastic and the old resistor.
2.cut the cp red wire that goes from the pin. leave enough length
3.get a simple 12V rocker on-off switch. create a hole in the handle and secure it
3. connect pp (blue) to one side of a new 62ohm 1/2w resistor, the other side of the resistor connect to 2 wires: one is the red wire that originally goes to the PE (so we're actually replacing the resistor with a new one) and another new wire to be connected to one leg of the switch
4. the other leg of the switch, connect to the red thin wire that we cut in step 2 (connected to CP)

put a shrink isolation plastic on the connections (covering the new resistor)

your're done in the handle. we will not put a led light here (you could if you want) in order not to cut the original L, N wires coming out of the pins.

connect the end of the cable to whatever port splitter you want. you could but one with a led light or add one there.

so besides the small soldering of the resistor, you dont need to do anything.

this is all for the Type2 Connector.
it would be great if people that did the type1 V2L could elaborate here what needs to be done.
links to the items:
type 2

type 1

rocker switch with easy wiring

62ohm 1/2w resistor

shrinking isolation sleeve

drill bit, for the switch

and if you're at it.. a multimeter for 10$

dont forget to get the coupons on the item's page, and also try the coupons here
AliExpress promo codes and coupon - AliExpress

the pictures here, are before working on them.
will post more, after i get the rocker switch i've ordered

enjoy. View attachment 44730 View attachment 44731 View attachment 44732 View attachment 44733
Hmmmm...Where have I seen that circuit diagram before? It would be nice to be credited!
By drilling and adding the switch you have destroyed the IP55 rating of the plug & cable assembly - The AliExpress website says: " Excellent protection performance, protection grade IP55, it can keep EV connector working even if use in a rainy day -" Not any more!
The switch and indicator light need to be together. Either put them both in the plug or put them both at the other end. The other end would be best for you as then you can maintain the plug's IP55 rating.
However, there is another way with a waterproof switch and light, both sealed in with silicone. - Note the rubber sealing boot on the switch.
Product Black Natural material Body jewelry Automotive exterior


Rectangle Slope Font Parallel Circle
 

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Hmmmm...Where have I seen that circuit diagram before? It would be nice to be credited!
By drilling and adding the switch you have destroyed the IP55 rating of the plug & cable assembly - The AliExpress website says: " Excellent protection performance, protection grade IP55, it can keep EV connector working even if use in a rainy day -" Not any more!
The switch and indicator light need to be together. Either put them both in the plug or put them both at the other end. The other end would be best for you as then you can maintain the plug's IP55 rating.
However, there is another way with a waterproof switch and light, both sealed in with silicone. - Note the rubber sealing boot on the switch.
The diagram is from this thread from your post.
few remarks:
1. the switch cannot be and the end of the wire, as there is only CP going from the pin to the end. you are missing the PP at the end of the wire.
2. i could live without a led light at the adaptor side, as when you switch it on, the led lights in the car flash. this is a good enough indicator for me. i rather not cut the L,N wires inside the adaptor.
3. it seems that on every solution you find a "hole".
i've never seen your solution as rated IP55.
personally, i don't care about the IP55 rating. i do not plan to operate it in the rain. it was already shown that the original v2l isn't too protected from water.
in your solution, the plugs at the end are not waterproof. so what's the point.

anyways, the idea was to provide people a more elegant solution, as soldering the wires to the big pins in the adapters is something that requires a very strong soldering iron, or heat gun, which regular people dont have at home
 

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The diagram is from this thread from your post.
few remarks:
1. the switch cannot be and the end of the wire, as there is only CP going from the pin to the end. you are missing the PP at the end of the wire.
2. i could live without a led light at the adaptor side, as when you switch it on, the led lights in the car flash. this is a good enough indicator for me. i rather not cut the L,N wires inside the adaptor.
3. it seems that on every solution you find a "hole".
i've never seen your solution as rated IP55.
personally, i don't care about the IP55 rating. i do not plan to operate it in the rain. it was already shown that the original v2l isn't too protected from water.
in your solution, the plugs at the end are not waterproof. so what's the point.

anyways, the idea was to provide people a more elegant solution, as soldering the wires to the big pins in the adapters is something that requires a very strong soldering iron, or heat gun, which regular people dont have at home
1. True & sad.
2. The Hyundai original has an indicator light. You don't need to cut the wires - clip on wire taps are available from AliExpress at $5 for 100.
3. Not everybody lives where it doesn't rain. Maintaining waterproofing is a good thing. The far end of the cable can be inside a tent or caravan and out of the rain. That's the point. The picture above clearly shows my simple solution to maintain the IP rating. The direct caravan connector below has an IP44 rating - Both ends now waterproof.
For the extra price of your wired connector, you could buy several high power soldering irons from AliExpress.
Blue Scale Automotive tire Household cleaning supply Hand tool

Beautiful. IP44, 9m cable, 1.5mm² core - Direct to your caravan or motorhome (RV)
 

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1. True & sad.
2. The Hyundai original has an indicator light. You don't need to cut the wires - clip on wire taps are available from AliExpress at $5 for 100.
3. Not everybody lives where it doesn't rain. Maintaining waterproofing is a good thing. The far end of the cable can be inside a tent or caravan and out of the rain. That's the point. The picture above clearly shows my simple solution to maintain the IP rating. The direct caravan connector below has an IP44 rating - Both ends now waterproof.
For the extra price of your wired connector, you could buy several high power soldering irons from AliExpress.

Beautiful. IP44, 9m cable, 1.5mm² core - Direct to your caravan or motorhome (RV)
2.if i've used taps, then you would have commented that its not safe. i dont care about the led. other indicators are good enough,
3. i've seen the internals of this adaptor. the waterproofing is not that good.
the extra cost for not having to solder the large pins and includes the wire is about 30$ .
you cannot by "several hight power soldering irons" for 30$.

btw, i thought that 16A should have 2.5mm wires and not 1.5mm .

anyways, i'm sure your solution is the best there is. enjoy.
 

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2.if i've used taps, then you would have commented that its not safe. i dont care about the led. other indicators are good enough,
3. i've seen the internals of this adaptor. the waterproofing is not that good.
the extra cost for not having to solder the large pins and includes the wire is about 30$ .
you cannot by "several hight power soldering irons" for 30$.

btw, i thought that 16A should have 2.5mm wires and not 1.5mm .

anyways, i'm sure your solution is the best there is. enjoy.
2. Taps are safe, that's why I suggested them.
3. The advertised rating of your plug and lead is IP55, irrespective of what you think the internals look like.
Did you bother to do the math?
The resistance of 1.5mm² copper wire is 0.0121 Ohms per metre. My lead is 9m - 18m return.
V = I X R. - 0.0121 x 18 x 16A = 3.485V - That's 1.5% of 230V - Well within the max 5% drop allowed.
Here you can buy 20m made up cables for caravans with 16A rating and using 1.5mm² wire.
Thank you. It is the very best I can make it. I hope things go well for you too.
 

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2.if i've used taps, then you would have commented that its not safe. i dont care about the led. other indicators are good enough,
3. i've seen the internals of this adaptor. the waterproofing is not that good.
the extra cost for not having to solder the large pins and includes the wire is about 30$ .
you cannot by "several hight power soldering irons" for 30$.

btw, i thought that 16A should have 2.5mm wires and not 1.5mm .

anyways, i'm sure your solution is the best there is. enjoy.
Sorry. I was wrong about being able to buy several high-powered soldering irons. You can buy MANY high-powered irons for $30! Here they are at $2 each! 0.77US $ 14% OFF|220V 30W/40W/60W/80W/100W Wood Handle Mini Soldering Iron Rework Station Adjustable Temperature Electric Solder Iron Hand Tool| | - AliExpress
Now. May I ask a favor? Could you take the plug completely apart so that I can see what kind of crimp method was used on the P-E-N terminals (pins). Thanks in advance.
 

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This looks like a fantastic thread, but way way over my head. No way for me to make a V2L connector, but I bought one from Lakeland Hyundai part number GIH68 AKOAO (for USD188 +S&Tax). Not sure if this is the same as part Hyundai provides at $500+, but it came in a cute little case with Hyundai logo.

My US-delivered IONIQ5 does not have plugs under the back seat, but I tried the connector in the charging port and it seems to meet 2/3 of my requirements. My electric hand drill works fine. My 13amp circular saw works fine. My 12 amp Sun Joe electric mower does not work, start up draw trips something and turns off the connector.

A white sticker next to the 3 prong plugin port of the connector says "Max AC 125V, 15A". If this connector is the simple pass through to the on-board inverter, what is the max start-up draw it can handle? The 13 amp saw, works, but the 12 amp mover doesn't (mower probably has a capacitor in its start-up circuit, but saw doesn't?). Would a 9 amp Greenworks mover work - can't find anything on Greenworks site to say what it's start-up draw is or whether it also has a capacitor. Any advice appreciated.
 

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I wish there was a "build your own v2l" for dummies thread. Take this wire solder to this wire attach this to this etc..
I've done a ton of electrical, carpentry, am very handy. But ohms, resistors, inverters, diagrams, ugh.
 

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Ioniq 5 Project 45 and E-Niro 4+. (Previously, Polestar2, Tesla M3, Ampera, Ioniq)
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All I want to know is how to use the V2L to draw power into the house (a) in the event of a power cut, and (b) to use during the day on a continuous basis to run the house at off-peak rates. I believe both are not legal in the UK. but even if I could, I suspect the smell of burning plastic from the V2L cable would soon put me off the idea - what is the highest load that the car and cable can support continuously for an extended period?
 

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All I want to know is how to use the V2L to draw power into the house (a) in the event of a power cut, and (b) to use during the day on a continuous basis to run the house at off-peak rates. I believe both are not legal in the UK. but even if I could, I suspect the small of burning plastic from the V2L cable would soon put me off the idea - what is the highest load that the car and cable can support continuously for an extended period?
As far as I know, hyundai is working on V2G (not V2L). So peak-rate stuff we need to wait.

V2L is rated at 3.6kW and vehicle just cuts off the power if conditions are not met (i.e. overload). That means, you can run lights, light appliances like electric kettle, microwave, PC, TV's etc. but not heavy stuff (anything over 16A/3.6kW).

You can think of V2L as small portable generator. If you want to use V2L as emergency power supply so you need to meet specific conditions:
-V2L in I5 runs on one phase 230V (Europe), so house must be wired pretty much also one phase system or electrical panel/fuse box must be redone, to meet your needs while using V2L.
-V2L cannot be connected to the grid. You need inlet and changeover switch that disconnects mains to the house, while using your I5 as power supply.

In any case, I would advice to talk to qualified electrician before.
 

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Thanks @marius.brn my investigations basically concur and V2L can power a kettle but that's about it. We are on 230v single phase and as you say there is no way to isolate from the mains supply and run a light circuit (for example) in the UK.
 

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OK...
this was super fast. the item arrived in 8 days from China to Israel.
take a look at the attached pictures.

PP and PE is already connected with a resistor (the blue line coming out of PP and connected via the shrink plastic to the red wire that goes into PE)

CP goes from the pin, all the way to the end of the cable. (we don't need it at the end of the cable)

so... within 10-20 minutes, you could have a V2L...

1. cut the pp-pe connection right at the shrink plastic. remove the plastic and the old resistor.
2.cut the cp red wire that goes from the pin. leave enough length
3.get a simple 12V rocker on-off switch. create a hole in the handle and secure it
3. connect pp (blue) to one side of a new 62ohm 1/2w resistor, the other side of the resistor connect to 2 wires: one is the red wire that originally goes to the PE (so we're actually replacing the resistor with a new one) and another new wire to be connected to one leg of the switch
4. the other leg of the switch, connect to the red thin wire that we cut in step 2 (connected to CP)

put a shrink isolation plastic on the connections (covering the new resistor)

your're done in the handle. we will not put a led light here (you could if you want) in order not to cut the original L, N wires coming out of the pins.

connect the end of the cable to whatever port splitter you want. you could but one with a led light or add one there.

so besides the small soldering of the resistor, you dont need to do anything.

this is all for the Type2 Connector.
it would be great if people that did the type1 V2L could elaborate here what needs to be done.
links to the items:
type 2

type 1

rocker switch with easy wiring

62ohm 1/2w resistor

shrinking isolation sleeve

drill bit, for the switch

and if you're at it.. a multimeter for 10$

dont forget to get the coupons on the item's page, and also try the coupons here
AliExpress promo codes and coupon - AliExpress

the pictures here, are before working on them.
will post more, after i get the rocker switch i've ordered

enjoy. View attachment 44730 View attachment 44731 View attachment 44732 View attachment 44733
OK.
project finished. this was easy and quick. as no PIN soldering/crimping needed.

pic 1:eek:pen up the handle. you will need a T10 or T15 star screwdriver.
drill a hole large enough for the switch. this is a rocker plastic switch without and led.
i've decided to put the let next to the socket.

Shoe Sportswear Tool Wood Handheld power drill




2. this is the internals, before doing anything.
you can see the black shrink plastic around a 1/2w 575ohm resistor
(connecting the thin blue wire coming from PP, and the thin red wire going to PE)

i am also pointing at the red wire connected to CP which needs to be cut later.

Networking cables Electrical wiring Gadget Bicycle handlebar Electronic engineering


now going again thru the steps i've mentioned in the original post:


1. cut the pp-pe connection right at the shrink plastic. remove the plastic and the old resistor.
you now have a thin blue wire and a thin red wire.
2.
we are going to put a new resistor between the thin blue, and thin red wires we just cut.
to one side of a new 62ohm 1/2w resistor, connect:
a. thin blue wire (coming from pp)
b. a short new wire (i've used also blue wire ) with a spade connector (dont forget to put the plastic cover on the wire before crimping the connector !).

to the other side of the resistor, we will connect the thin red wire (coming from PE, we just cut in step1 )
dont forget to put the shrink plastic before soldering the wires

put the shrink plastic covering the resistor and connections. use a heat gun to shrink it
(black plastic in my setup). in the pic below, you can see how it looks just before covering the resistor.

3.cut the red wire that goes from the CP pin thru the black wire to the end. see pic above, i'm pointing a plier at it.
connect a spade connector to the red wire you just cut
put a shrink plastic on the wire you cut, going into the black cable . just in case.
use heat gun to shrink the isolating plastic


Gadget Bicycle part Line Circuit component Electrical wiring


5. connect the blue and red spade connectors to the switch

Electrical wiring Electricity Electronic engineering Electronic component Computer hardware



6. close the unit.

7. the end of the black wire, you have N, L, PE and CP(which is now cut, not connected, and not needed).
connect the N L PE to whatever sockets you like. i've added a 220V led light to that end.
(you can see it at the top of the sockets housing)

Gadget Electrical wiring Audio equipment Adapter Cable



close all the screws. and you're done.

i suggest using a multimeter(FLUKE) to verify
1. 62ohm between PP and PE
2. verify that PP and CP gets connected only after turning the switch to ON.
3. verify a connection between the L, N, PE pins with the respectable inputs in the sockets at the end of the cable

when connecting to the car, please note:
after connecting the handle to the car, while the switch is off, you will hear a click locking the handle in place.
then all the charging leds will flicker together. and on the multimedia screen you will get a notification "V2L conditions not met" this is normal !
after flipping the switch to ON, only the last available row of led lights will flicker (depending on the current level of battery charge), the multimedia screen will show V2L transferring, and you will get 220v in the socket.


ENJOY
 

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All I want to know is how to use the V2L to draw power into the house (a) in the event of a power cut, and (b) to use during the day on a continuous basis to run the house at off-peak rates. I believe both are not legal in the UK. but even if I could, I suspect the smell of burning plastic from the V2L cable would soon put me off the idea - what is the highest load that the car and cable can support continuously for an extended period?
The car will provide a continuous 16A at 230V (~3600W) for ~16 hours from 100% SOC to 20% SOC. The V2L connector that comes with the car will slowly get hotter after an hour or two at this current and should trigger the thermal cutoff switch. You can either buy/make a better V2K connector with 2.5mm2 wire that doesn't generate as much heat (like EV Cables) or use a fan directed at the Hyundai V2L connector to keep the temperature down.

The Ioniq 5 V2L components within the vehicle are very robust and reliable at providing continous power up to the 16A limit. The Hyundai V2L connector itself though is not built to run for many hours and should be upgraded if that is your intention.

In terms of running the house at off-peak rates, unless the difference between your peak and off-peak rates is very large (e.g. 30+c per kWh) I don't see the value in daily cycling of your car's HV battery with the resultant increase in degradation and loss in range. Yes, all this can technically be done (i.e. isolating from grid supply during peak hours) but it's very unlikely to stack up financially for a home with a reliable grid-connection. There are situations where it makes financial sense to use the V2L feature for V2H or even V2G via an intermediary battery. These scenarios include off-grid, market-linked rates/VPP, unreliable power supply etc.
 

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Thanks @evtricity, thats interesting.
My off peak rate (00:30 - 04:30) is 7.5p per kWh, and peak rate is 35.11p per kWh, so its a considerable difference. My daily peak use is around 10kWh at peak during the summer and 13kWh during the winter. So if I could use the car to power the house it could save me up to £1300 per year at todays prices.
The problem we face in the UK is that our electricity prices are soaring and will only get much more expensive in the next few months. There is also a small risk that given the state of the world we may face power generation shortages and there could be power cuts for some this winter.
(The UK is fast becoming a third world country, sadly. Just my opinion, not meaning to start a politics type discussion)
 
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