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2022 Preferred AWD LR Ioniq 5
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I have to agree. When power switch is closed, resistor is connected to PP after all. So electrically it is the same. I wonder if I should do anything about it.
Here is the sequence of how it works:
Power switch is OFF:
Plug in - nothing happens
Power switch is ON after plugged in:
Connector gets locked, AC power is ON
Lock switch pressed: connector gets unlocked, AC power is OFF

Looks like all correct. So technically, power switch can be always ON if you want it automatically supply AC when plugged in.
Okay, I think wiring to CP vs PP means you only get the port to lock (and the car to take a few other pre-steps) when you hit the toggle. Not a big loss.
Here's my sequence.
Inserted, latch switch open, toggle open:
nothing happens.
Inserted, latch switch closed, toggle open:
port locks, port lights flash, ventilation opens, car dings
Inserted, latch switch closed, toggle closed:
top row of port lights flash
Starting over:
Inserted, latch switch open, toggle closed:
nothing happens
When I then close the latch switch, everything happens.
 

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2022 Preferred AWD LR Ioniq 5
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I'd be interested to know what happens with the "correct" 500 ohms from PP to PE with the latch switch open, plugged in, toggle closed or open, in the OEM adapter. @nXt can you check that when you're messing around with yours?
 

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Cyber Grey/Grey SEL AWD
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Okay, I think wiring to CP vs PP means you only get the port to lock (and the car to take a few other pre-steps) when you hit the toggle. Not a big loss.
Here's my sequence.
Inserted, latch switch open, toggle open:
nothing happens.
Inserted, latch switch closed, toggle open:
port locks, port lights flash, ventilation opens, car dings
Inserted, latch switch closed, toggle closed:
top row of port lights flash
Starting over:
Inserted, latch switch open, toggle closed:
nothing happens
When I then close the latch switch, everything happens.
Interesting. So the only diff is in this intermediate state: "Inserted, latch switch closed, toggle open: port locks, port lights flash, ventilation opens, car dings".
I wonder what is the purpose of it.
 

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I believe that there is a high resistance that is in parallel with the normally open latch switch (US models and others of Type 1 SAE J1772) that initially signals the car that something is plugged in. When the latch switch is released (locking the plug and closing the internal microswitch) this bypasses a large part of the resistance leaving the lower 62-75 ohms that signals that a V2L device is plugged in. Then the "power" button that shorts PP and CP actually instructs the car to enable the invertor and generate output voltage.

This is a good explanation from the SAE J1772 Wikipedia page:

The proximity pin, PP (also known as plug present), as shown in the SAE J1772 example pinout, describes the switch, S3, as being mechanically linked to the connector latch release actuator. During charging, the EVSE side connects the PP-PE loop via S3 and a 150 Ω R6; when opening the release actuator a 330 Ω R7 is added in the PP-PE loop on the EVSE side which gives a voltage shift on the line to allow the electric vehicle to initiate a controlled shut off prior to actual disconnection of the charge power pins.

I currently have both the Korean and the US spec V2L adaptors so if anyone wants specific numbers I can probably get them this weekend. Don't ask why I ended up with both, I am strange that way. :)
 

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2022 Preferred AWD LR Ioniq 5
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I believe that there is a high resistance that is in parallel with the normally open latch switch (US models and others of Type 1 SAE J1772) that initially signals the car that something is plugged in. When the latch switch is released (locking the plug and closing the internal microswitch) this bypasses a large part of the resistance leaving the lower 62-75 ohms that signals that a V2L device is plugged in. Then the "power" button that shorts PP and CP actually instructs the car to enable the invertor and generate output voltage.

This is a good explanation from the SAE J1772 Wikipedia page:

The proximity pin, PP (also known as plug present), as shown in the SAE J1772 example pinout, describes the switch, S3, as being mechanically linked to the connector latch release actuator. During charging, the EVSE side connects the PP-PE loop via S3 and a 150 Ω R6; when opening the release actuator a 330 Ω R7 is added in the PP-PE loop on the EVSE side which gives a voltage shift on the line to allow the electric vehicle to initiate a controlled shut off prior to actual disconnection of the charge power pins.

I currently have both the Korean and the US spec V2L adaptors so if anyone wants specific numbers I can probably get them this weekend. Don't ask why I ended up with both, I am strange that way. :)
It seems that the car doesn't mind doing two or three of these steps at once.

Alexw's post measured that resistance as 500 ohms, which based on his photos appears to be from a 430 ohm resistor in parallel with 10 ohms and the latch switch, in series with 65 ohms.
 

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Ok, here are my thoughts about building the V2L, and the problem i have now.
i've build the Type2 version (European) based on the schemas that are in the thread, and with the help of great people in Israel (Nir, Gaby) who were among the first to build such a V2L.

i've posted the list of components i've purchased from ALIexpress on page 6.

i will write a detailed post with pics etc later.

what i am struggling with currently is something i see Tyler confronted, and also on a German forum which is referred to in on of the posts.



when i connect the Type2 connector to the car, the cable is locked, and all charging lights flash, and on the screen in the car "V2L conditions not met". when i press the on/off button, V2L stares to work and 220V is streamed . the led on the switch is turned on.
If i press the on/off button again, the 220v current stops. led light in switch turned off. all lights again flash and again the same message on the screen.

so i am not the only one who have this scenario. i've updated the firmware on the car to the latest to see if the problem is there.

checking with a FLUKE, i get the following:
PP-PE : 62 ohm
CP-PP: if the button is in the OFF position: 0 ohm. if the button is ON, then 62Ohm
PP-CP: if the button is OFF - not connected. button is ON - connected.

so all looks just fine.
need to mention, that i use a 1/4W 62Ohm resistor.
i am trying to think if changing to 1/2W or 1W could solve this problem.

Any insights ? ideas ?

from the german forum: "After your measurement I put a 75 Ohm resistor between PP and PE. With that, the car locked the connector and showed a message on the display that V2L is not available.

After I then connected CP to PP, V2L was released "

so this is exactly the same as my scenario
 

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Ok, here are my thoughts about building the V2L, and the problem i have now.
i've build the Type2 version (European) based on the schemas that are in the thread, and with the help of great people in Israel (Nir, Gaby) who were among the first to build such a V2L.

i've posted the list of components i've purchased from ALIexpress on page 6.

i will write a detailed post with pics etc later.

what i am struggling with currently is something i see Tyler confronted, and also on a German forum which is referred to in on of the posts.



when i connect the Type2 connector to the car, the cable is locked, and all charging lights flash, and on the screen in the car "V2L conditions not met". when i press the on/off button, V2L stares to work and 220V is streamed . the led on the switch is turned on.
If i press the on/off button again, the 220v current stops. led light in switch turned off. all lights again flash and again the same message on the screen.

so i am not the only one who have this scenario. i've updated the firmware on the car to the latest to see if the problem is there.

checking with a FLUKE, i get the following:
PP-PE : 62 ohm
CP-PP: if the button is in the OFF position: 0 ohm. if the button is ON, then 62Ohm
PP-CP: if the button is OFF - not connected. button is ON - connected.

so all looks just fine.
need to mention, that i use a 1/4W 62Ohm resistor.
i am trying to think if changing to 1/2W or 1W could solve this problem.

Any insights ? ideas ?

from the german forum: "After your measurement I put a 75 Ohm resistor between PP and PE. With that, the car locked the connector and showed a message on the display that V2L is not available.

After I then connected CP to PP, V2L was released "

so this is exactly the same as my scenario
I have read and reread your post. I do not understand what the problem is. Unlock car. Open charge door. Plug type2 into car. Operate switch - 230VAC appears. Operate an appliance. Turn off switch - 230VAC stops. Unlock car with key fob or switch inside driver's door. Remove type2 plug. What is wrong with that sequence? It works just fine here.
The problem with your setup is having an unearthed metal-bodied combined switch and light with 230VAC mains inside the same small 20mm housing as the 12VDC. It is neat and compact, but the risk of 230VAC arcing into the delicate 12VDC car system is too great for me to follow suit. This is what I have done. Only plastic exposed parts.
Tool Bicycle part Auto part Font Carbon
 

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Ok, here are my thoughts about building the V2L, and the problem i have now.
i've build the Type2 version (European) based on the schemas that are in the thread, and with the help of great people in Israel (Nir, Gaby) who were among the first to build such a V2L.

i've posted the list of components i've purchased from ALIexpress on page 6.

i will write a detailed post with pics etc later.

what i am struggling with currently is something i see Tyler confronted, and also on a German forum which is referred to in on of the posts.



when i connect the Type2 connector to the car, the cable is locked, and all charging lights flash, and on the screen in the car "V2L conditions not met". when i press the on/off button, V2L stares to work and 220V is streamed . the led on the switch is turned on.
If i press the on/off button again, the 220v current stops. led light in switch turned off. all lights again flash and again the same message on the screen.

so i am not the only one who have this scenario. i've updated the firmware on the car to the latest to see if the problem is there.

checking with a FLUKE, i get the following:
PP-PE : 62 ohm
CP-PP: if the button is in the OFF position: 0 ohm. if the button is ON, then 62Ohm
PP-CP: if the button is OFF - not connected. button is ON - connected.

so all looks just fine.
need to mention, that i use a 1/4W 62Ohm resistor.
i am trying to think if changing to 1/2W or 1W could solve this problem.

Any insights ? ideas ?

from the german forum: "After your measurement I put a 75 Ohm resistor between PP and PE. With that, the car locked the connector and showed a message on the display that V2L is not available.

After I then connected CP to PP, V2L was released "

so this is exactly the same as my scenario
When the button is pressed there should be a direct short between CP and PP not a resistance of 62 ohm. You've probably attached the wire coming from the switch to the wrong side of the resistor. One wire from the switch should go directly to CP contact and the other wire from the switch should go directly to PP contact.
 

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Ok, here are my thoughts about building the V2L, and the problem i have now.
i've build the Type2 version (European) based on the schemas that are in the thread, and with the help of great people in Israel (Nir, Gaby) who were among the first to build such a V2L.

i've posted the list of components i've purchased from ALIexpress on page 6.

i will write a detailed post with pics etc later.

what i am struggling with currently is something i see Tyler confronted, and also on a German forum which is referred to in on of the posts.



when i connect the Type2 connector to the car, the cable is locked, and all charging lights flash, and on the screen in the car "V2L conditions not met". when i press the on/off button, V2L stares to work and 220V is streamed . the led on the switch is turned on.
If i press the on/off button again, the 220v current stops. led light in switch turned off. all lights again flash and again the same message on the screen.

so i am not the only one who have this scenario. i've updated the firmware on the car to the latest to see if the problem is there.

checking with a FLUKE, i get the following:
PP-PE : 62 ohm
CP-PP: if the button is in the OFF position: 0 ohm. if the button is ON, then 62Ohm
PP-CP: if the button is OFF - not connected. button is ON - connected.

so all looks just fine.
need to mention, that i use a 1/4W 62Ohm resistor.
i am trying to think if changing to 1/2W or 1W could solve this problem.

Any insights ? ideas ?

from the german forum: "After your measurement I put a 75 Ohm resistor between PP and PE. With that, the car locked the connector and showed a message on the display that V2L is not available.

After I then connected CP to PP, V2L was released "

so this is exactly the same as my scenario
Ok, here are my thoughts about building the V2L, and the problem i have now.
i've build the Type2 version (European) based on the schemas that are in the thread, and with the help of great people in Israel (Nir, Gaby) who were among the first to build such a V2L.

i've posted the list of components i've purchased from ALIexpress on page 6.

i will write a detailed post with pics etc later.

what i am struggling with currently is something i see Tyler confronted, and also on a German forum which is referred to in on of the posts.



when i connect the Type2 connector to the car, the cable is locked, and all charging lights flash, and on the screen in the car "V2L conditions not met". when i press the on/off button, V2L stares to work and 220V is streamed . the led on the switch is turned on.
If i press the on/off button again, the 220v current stops. led light in switch turned off. all lights again flash and again the same message on the screen.

so i am not the only one who have this scenario. i've updated the firmware on the car to the latest to see if the problem is there.

checking with a FLUKE, i get the following:
PP-PE : 62 ohm
CP-PP: if the button is in the OFF position: 0 ohm. if the button is ON, then 62Ohm
PP-CP: if the button is OFF - not connected. button is ON - connected.

so all looks just fine.
need to mention, that i use a 1/4W 62Ohm resistor.
i am trying to think if changing to 1/2W or 1W could solve this problem.

Any insights ? ideas ?

from the german forum: "After your measurement I put a 75 Ohm resistor between PP and PE. With that, the car locked the connector and showed a message on the display that V2L is not available.

After I then connected CP to PP, V2L was released "

so this is exactly the same as my scenario
Maybe you would like to rewrite this so it makes more sense?
"PP-PE : 62 ohm
CP-PP: if the button is in the OFF position: 0 ohm. if the button is ON, then 62Ohm
PP-CP: if the button is OFF - not connected. button is ON - connected.
"
What happened to PE-CP?
The correct working, wiring diagram is on post #135 on this forum thread.
 

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I have read and reread your post. I do not understand what the problem is. Unlock car. Open charge door. Plug type2 into car. Operate switch - 230VAC appears. Operate an appliance. Turn off switch - 230VAC stops. Unlock car with key fob or switch inside driver's door. Remove type2 plug. What is wrong with that sequence? It works just fine here.
The problem with your setup is having an unearthed metal-bodied combined switch and light with 230VAC mains inside the same small 20mm housing as the 12VDC. It is neat and compact, but the risk of 230VAC arcing into the delicate 12VDC car system is too great for me to follow suit. This is what I have done. Only plastic exposed parts.
View attachment 44444
Hi, thanks for your remarks on the plastic parts. i've read them in the past, and this is a prototype. i'll make a plastic one next.

as to your remarks,
the only problem is: when you plug the adapter to the car, but before you press the ON button.
do all lights flash together ?
what is written on your dashboard screen ?
 

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When the button is pressed there should be a direct short between CP and PP not a resistance of 62 ohm. You've probably attached the wire coming from the switch to the wrong side of the resistor. One wire from the switch should go directly to CP contact and the other wire from the switch should go directly to PP contact.
hi.
i wrote the post late at night, so one error on my post. so you are correct about CP-PP connection. i meant CP-PE in the second row (bellow)
this also reply's to @DomT




checking with a FLUKE, i get the following:
PP-PE : 62 ohm
CP-PE (!!): if the button is in the OFF position: 0 ohm. if the button is ON, then 62ohm
PP-CP: if the button is OFF - not connected. button is ON - connected.


so to sum up, the V2L works, but i dont understand why when only the plug is inserted and locked, the screen shows the error message and all charging status lights flash.
trying to figure out that one.. (which is a situation that at least 2 people reported ( @Tyler ) about all charging lights flashing (but didnt report the error on the screen.. maybe didnt take a look ?!?)
 

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hi.
i wrote the post late at night, so one error on my post. so you are correct about CP-PP connection. i meant CP-PE in the second row (bellow)
this also reply's to @DomT




checking with a FLUKE, i get the following:
PP-PE : 62 ohm
CP-PE (!!): if the button is in the OFF position: 0 ohm. if the button is ON, then 62ohm
PP-CP: if the button is OFF - not connected. button is ON - connected.


so to sum up, the V2L works, but i dont understand why when only the plug is inserted and locked, the screen shows the error message and all charging status lights flash.
trying to figure out that one.. (which is a situation that at least 2 people reported ( @Tyler ) about all charging lights flashing (but didnt report the error on the screen.. maybe didnt take a look ?!?)
Still doesn't make much sense.
PP-PE : 62 ohm
CP-PE (!!): if the button is in the OFF position: 0 ohm. if the button is ON, then 62ohm
PP-CP: if the button is OFF - not connected. button is ON - connected.
Do you mean: CP-PE (!!): if the button is in the OFF position: INFINITY (Open circuit) ohm. if the button is ON, then 62ohm
There is a world of difference between 0 Ohm and INFINITY Ohm.

Mine behaves exactly the same: "...when only the plug is inserted and locked, the screen shows the error message and all charging status lights flash". I don't really see that as a problem. Turn the switch on the adaptor to the ON position and all is well.
 

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Still doesn't make much sense.
PP-PE : 62 ohm
CP-PE (!!): if the button is in the OFF position: 0 ohm. if the button is ON, then 62ohm
PP-CP: if the button is OFF - not connected. button is ON - connected.
Do you mean: CP-PE (!!): if the button is in the OFF position: INFINITY (Open circuit) ohm. if the button is ON, then 62ohm
There is a world of difference between 0 Ohm and INFINITY Ohm.

Mine behaves exactly the same: "...when only the plug is inserted and locked, the screen shows the error message and all charging status lights flash". I don't really see that as a problem. Turn the switch on the adaptor to the ON position and all is well.
@DomT
first thank you for taking the time to respond. appreciate it.

when mentioned CP-PE,i meant:
as the CP-PE gets a connection as per the diagram, only when the power button is pressed. (PP to PE constant and then PP-PC when power is on), when i say 0 ohm, i really mean that there is no connection between CP-PE.
only after pressing the on button, the reading on the fluke turns to 62ohn on the CP-PE connection.

so you confirm the same situation as mine ? when you only plug the adapter without turning it on, you get the error message on the screen ?
is that also the case with the original V2L ?
 

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@DomT
first thank you for taking the time to respond. appreciate it.

when mentioned CP-PE,i meant:
as the CP-PE gets a connection as per the diagram, only when the power button is pressed. (PP to PE constant and then PP-PC when power is on), when i say 0 ohm, i really mean that there is no connection between CP-PE.
only after pressing the on button, the reading on the fluke turns to 62ohn on the CP-PE connection.

so you confirm the same situation as mine ? when you only plug the adapter without turning it on, you get the error message on the screen ?
is that also the case with the original V2L ?
0 Ohm means no resistance - Zero Ohm - there is a direct short.
If it is open circuit or no connection then it is INFINITY Ohm. Your FLUKE will read OL (This stands for Open Line)
I do not have an original V2L. You will have to ask the OP.
 

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0 Ohm means no resistance - Zero Ohm - there is a direct short.
If it is open circuit or no connection then it is INFINITY Ohm. Your FLUKE will read OL (This stands for Open Line)
I do not have an original V2L. You will have to ask the OP.

could you share what is the situation in your setup, when you insert the plug ?
looking at youtube with the original V2L, the same happens with the original. all rows of charge lights blink until you press the on button.
but you cannot see what is displayed on the car's screen while this is blinking (before turning it ON). can you share your case ?


 

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i've confirmed with another V2L DIY builder.
when you plug your V2L and yet to turn it ON, all charging lights will flash, and the indicator on the screen will state "v2l conditions not met".
after usage, when you turn it OFF and yet to remove it, all the charging lights will flash again, and the screen will show again the message "v2l conditions not met".
i've yet to confirm this with an original V2L, but looking at the videos above, in which the charging lights all flash before turning the V2L ON, it seems logical that the same happens with the original V2L.

hyundai should have made a clearer message like "v2l detected" .

i've also confirmed this with an ORIGINAL V2L. same message when you plug the V2L and yet to turn it on.

most people do not notice this, as they are outside, and usually plug the V2L and immediately turn it on.

so to sum up: when you plug the V2L and yet to turn it on (or if it was on, and you turn it off via the switch), all charging lights on the charging port with flash, and the screen will show an orange circled message: V2L conditions not met
 

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i'm doing a test.
i've bought a Type2 connector already supplier with a cable.
based on the pics from people who bought it, there are screws to open the handle.
the idea is to save the soldering part(of the big pins) and just add the switch, led, and resistor.


there is also one with a TYPE1 (US market) handle


 

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i'm doing a test.
i've bought a Type2 connector already supplier with a cable.
based on the pics from people who bought it, there are screws to open the handle.
the idea is to save the soldering part(of the big pins) and just add the switch, led, and resistor.


there is also one with a TYPE1 (US market) handle


When you open it up you will probably need to remove the resistor:
The AC charger cables have a resistor between protective earth (PE) and the proximity pin (PP) pin to indicate the current rating of the cable.
1500 Ω resistor – 13A cable
680 Ω resistor – 20A cable
220 Ω resistor – 32A cable
100 Ω resistor – 63A cable
 

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When you open it up you will probably need to remove the resistor:
The AC charger cables have a resistor between protective earth (PE) and the proximity pin (PP) pin to indicate the current rating of the cable.
1500 Ω resistor – 13A cable
680 Ω resistor – 20A cable
220 Ω resistor – 32A cable
100 Ω resistor – 63A cable
yes, i assumed that.
but the idea is to make DIY V2L to more more accessible to people , as i found the soldering part to be really hard if you dont have the right equipment.
 
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