Much as I would love to build my own V2L cable, I just don't have the time or ability to do it so I elected to get a Type 2-to-Commando cable from EV Cables and a separate 16 amp capable Commando-to-2 gang 3 pin cable from elsewhere.Thanks @evtricity, thats interesting.
My off peak rate (00:30 - 04:30) is 7.5p per kWh, and peak rate is 35.11p per kWh, so its a considerable difference. My daily peak use is around 10kWh at peak during the summer and 13kWh during the winter. So if I could use the car to power the house it could save me up to £1300 per year at todays prices.
The problem we face in the UK is that our electricity prices are soaring and will only get much more expensive in the next few months. There is also a small risk that given the state of the world we may face power generation shortages and there could be power cuts for some this winter.
(The UK is fast becoming a third world country, sadly. Just my opinion, not meaning to start a politics type discussion)
from what people wrote in this thread the voltage is very low.Can you use a 12v toggle switch across CP and PP. I’ve found some 240v ones but they’re a bit too big for what I’m planning.
Right, sorry @ChrisVal, was reading too quickly. Looks like CP produces a 12V square wave, so should be fine.i think the question was, if a 12V toggle switch is ok, or a 120/240V one needs to be used.
based on the readings from other posts, the voltage between CP-pp is less than 1V (look at page 13 or 14)
I am late to the game. Thank you Alex for the photo. I believe it is a 75/430ohms at 1% resistors. The resistor read purple instead of blue to me. Coming in at 75ohm + possible extra 5ohm from the latch) closed (total 75.5ohm) and 505ohm latch-open.Good observation on 65/430ohms. The EXACT measurements externally are 75.5ohm latch-closed, and 505ohm latch-open. I find it weird they used 1% resistors, but those are both within 1% so that tracks. I'm not sure where the extra precisely-10ohms is coming from, but its in both paths (rather than just being there when the switch is closed.
EDIT: I wonder if the 10r is in-line with the PE connection of the switch circuit board, to minimize fault current in some kind of scenario.
this was super fast. the item arrived in 8 days from China to Israel.
take a look at the attached pictures.
PP and PE is already connected with a resistor (the blue line coming out of PP and connected via the shrink plastic to the red wire that goes into PE)
CP goes from the pin, all the way to the end of the cable. (we don't need it at the end of the cable)
so... within 10-20 minutes, you could have a V2L...
1. cut the pp-pe connection right at the shrink plastic. remove the plastic and the old resistor.
2.cut the cp red wire that goes from the pin. leave enough length
3.get a simple 12V rocker on-off switch. create a hole in the handle and secure it
3. connect pp (blue) to one side of a new 62ohm 1/2w resistor, the other side of the resistor connect to 2 wires: one is the red wire that originally goes to the PE (so we're actually replacing the resistor with a new one) and another new wire to be connected to one leg of the switch
4. the other leg of the switch, connect to the red thin wire that we cut in step 2 (connected to CP)
put a shrink isolation plastic on the connections (covering the new resistor)
your're done in the handle. we will not put a led light here (you could if you want) in order not to cut the original L, N wires coming out of the pins.
connect the end of the cable to whatever port splitter you want. you could but one with a led light or add one there.
so besides the small soldering of the resistor, you dont need to do anything.
this is all for the Type2 Connector.
it would be great if people that did the type1 V2L could elaborate here what needs to be done.
links to the items:
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rocker switch with easy wiring
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62ohm 1/2w resistor
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drill bit, for the switch
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the pictures here, are before working on them.
will post more, after i get the rocker switch i've ordered
enjoy. View attachment 44730 View attachment 44731 View attachment 44732 View attachment 44733
One does not need grid > For example a grid connected solar inverter will cut solar power when you need it, when no grid is available, An OFF grid and hybrid solar inverter have a GEN and grid input connection making it possible to connect the car to the home limited to the inverter output pwr or car output limits, A solar inverter has a DC input 100- 450V and may have a high voltage batt charger discharger, delivering 220V AC to home, How difficult can it be for connecting a 400v car battery to the home, Why biderectional loading -deloading is made this expensive? Why no using a solar hybrid inverter?Thank you for all this detail on the internals of the US spec version of that device. Nothing too surprising there.
With respect to V2H and/or V2G, I strongly suspect that would use something similar to a CCS connector and the car would simply allow an external device direct access to the HV batteries.
The main reason for that suspicion is simply the low power output an inverter in any car would have and the difficulties in making one that would properly sync frequency and voltage and meet local grid connection codes for all the locations around the world.
It would be much easier for the EV manufacturers to simply close the HV battery contactors to connect the battery to the high voltage pins on the CCS connector when asked by an external device.
That external device would then be the one that would have to be compliant with the various local safety requirements and other regulations. The car itself would definitely monitor the state of charge, cell temperatures, etc. and disconnect the contactors if/when it was unhappy with conditions, but the wall box would be the device that would have to have a grid tied inverter, etc.
I guess I should go read whatever public documentation and/or specifications there are for V2G and CCS. . . The above is simply speculation based on how I would approach the problem if I hadn’t retired out of engineering a while back.
Received my Lectron today and can confirm it is based on this design minus the led and switch.I am late to the game. Thank you Alex for the photo. I believe it is a 75/430ohms at 1% resistors. The resistor read purple instead of blue to me. Coming in at 75ohm + possible extra 5ohm from the latch) closed (total 75.5ohm) and 505ohm latch-open.