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Can anyone confirm that an EVSE like this will work even with the US spec V2L? Is it possible that none of the V2Ls are grounded in such a way as to allow this kind of use?
I confirmed on my Canadian Ioniq 5 ultimate, that the Canadian V2L is properly grounded. i.e. the Ground slot and Neutral slot are bonded. Think of the Ioniq 5/V2L as a portable "generator". Most portable generators have the neutral and ground bonded. I also plugged in my EVSE into the the V2L and it gave no errors
 

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Do you know if the adapter even has metal inserts for the ground ?
On the adapter, there are 2 ground possibilities:
  • the 'hole' (blue) > but no pin on the V2L
  • the 'cut-outs' at top and bottom > they should connect with the metal 'things' on the V2L (red)
Sometimes, these cut-outs are only to make the plug fit, and lacking the metal inserts for the ground.

Sleeve Electrical wiring Gas Audio equipment Cable


In your photo it def looks green, at least on my iPad.
It certainly looks green, had to look back, but I think that's just a representation of their car on the in-car infotainment screen :)
 

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I confirmed on my Canadian Ioniq 5 ultimate, that the Canadian V2L is properly grounded. i.e. the Ground slot and Neutral slot are bonded. Think of the Ioniq 5/V2L as a portable "generator". Most portable generators have the neutral and ground bonded. I also plugged in my EVSE into the the V2L and it gave no errors
Did you "ACTUALLY" measure the continuity between Neutral and Ground terminals (N and PE as shown below) on your Canadian V2L adapter? As far as I know, 120VAC in U.S. and Canada are same. Neutral is NOT supposed to be tied to Ground. Ground is earth ground for residential and commercial buildings, and chassis ground for vehicles.

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Do you know if the adapter even has metal inserts for the ground ?
On the adapter, there are 2 ground possibilities:
  • the 'hole' (blue) > but no pin on the V2L
  • the 'cut-outs' at top and bottom > they should connect with the metal 'things' on the V2L (red)
Sometimes, these cut-outs are only to make the plug fit, and lacking the metal inserts for the ground.

View attachment 43461


It certainly looks green, had to look back, but I think that's just a representation of their car on the in-car infotainment screen :)
I also have a Korean V2L adapter that came with same Korea/US adapter. The hole in blue in your diagram has connection to the two outer contacts that mate to two copper spring contact on the V2L adapter. However, when I tested the continuity between PE terminal of V2L adapter and copper spring contacts, they are open. I think this causes the Open Ground issue. I plugged in the cordless drill battery charger to my V2L adapter and it worked fine, but when I plugged in the AC tester similar to the one in above posts, I got Open Ground.

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I also have a Korean V2L adapter that came with same Korea/US adapter. The hole in blue in your diagram has connection to the two outer contacts that mate to two copper spring contact on the V2L adapter. However, when I tested the continuity between PE terminal of V2L adapter and copper spring contacts, they are open. I think this causes the Open Ground issue. I plugged in the cordless drill battery charger to my V2L adapter and it worked fine, but when I plugged in the AC tester similar to the one in above posts, I got Open Ground.
What do you think the significance is of this for the lay person in terms of ways they should use or not use the Korean V2L with north american spec I5?
 

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However, when I tested the continuity between PE terminal of V2L adapter and copper spring contacts, they are open. I think this causes the Open Ground issue.
I would also say that, at least the ground on both sides of the V2L should be connected (or with the copper springs, or with one of the holes at the center) ... if not then something is wrong ?

Stupid question maybe, but how can the ground going into the car, be 'grounded' ? (Unless you ground the chassis with a clamp)
Isn't the ground being 'supplied' by the charger, so the car is 'grounded' via the charger ?
Maybe the Tesla is checking the actual ground is closed (similar to the AC tester) ?

With the AC tester, the issues could also be that there is no ground connect in the V2L center holes, and only the copper springs are connected (which in your case they also don't seem to be) ?
 

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Did you "ACTUALLY" measure the continuity between Neutral and Ground terminals (N and PE as shown below) on your Canadian V2L adapter? As far as I know, 120VAC in U.S. and Canada are same. Neutral is NOT supposed to be tied to Ground. Ground is earth ground for residential and commercial buildings, and chassis ground for vehicles.

View attachment 43478
I measured continuity between neutral and ground on the Nema 5-15 receptacle of the V2L. I don't think you are correct about neutral not being tied to ground on the car if the power is being generated by the car. Think of the V2L as a portable generator. For a portable generator, the neutral and ground are bonded.

update: Also measured between PE and N of the V2L and it is also bonded.

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Bonding the Neutral
Generators used on construction sites supplying cord-and-plug connected equipment (tools, lights, etc.) are considered a “separately derived system” in the National Electrical Code, and thus, the neutral must be bonded to the frame of the generator.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Hey guys. I’ve been out of town a few days. I do see the “green” confusion now! You’re referring to the touch screen in the Tesla. My wife updated the car’s avatar to a pretty turquoise green, but hers is actually gray.

For the charging issue, I bought two more adapters and all have the same issue according to the Tesla: inadequate grounding. All of them have the metal at top and bottom and do make contact with the pins in the V2L socket. My thought now is to return everything and buy the US spec V2L from Hyundai. I had thought I saw a $550 price tag, but now they quote me $230. Then no adapters. Tesla still could balk at it. At least I’ll have a V2L for any future use.
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Hey guys. I’ve been out of town a few days. I do see the “green” confusion now! You’re referring to the touch screen in the Tesla. My wife updated the car’s avatar to a pretty turquoise green, but hers is actually gray.

For the charging issue, I bought two more adapters and all have the same issue according to the Tesla: inadequate grounding. All of them have the metal at top and bottom and do make contact with the pins in the V2L socket. My thought now is to return everything and buy the US spec V2L from Hyundai. I had thought I saw a $550 price tag, but now they quote me $230. Then no adapters. Tesla still could balk at it. At least I’ll have a V2L for any future use. View attachment 43543
View attachment 43542
Pat_in_LA already confirmed that the issue is the Korean V2L. The ground (PE) and upper contacts are not bonded, and also the neutral and ground are not bonded. I would agree with you, sell everything and get yourself a US V2L. I confirmed on mine (Canadian V2L) that the neutral and ground are bonded.

 

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Hey guys. I’ve been out of town a few days. I do see the “green” confusion now! You’re referring to the touch screen in the Tesla. My wife updated the car’s avatar to a pretty turquoise green, but hers is actually gray.

For the charging issue, I bought two more adapters and all have the same issue according to the Tesla: inadequate grounding. All of them have the metal at top and bottom and do make contact with the pins in the V2L socket. My thought now is to return everything and buy the US spec V2L from Hyundai. I had thought I saw a $550 price tag, but now they quote me $230. Then no adapters. Tesla still could balk at it. At least I’ll have a V2L for any future use. View attachment 43543
View attachment 43542
Who's quoting $230 for US V2L adapter? I'll order one immediately.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Confirmed, I just ordered V2L at the dealer. $230. Maybe only a couple days, possibly up to a week per delay notice. Not bad.
 

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OK, I am not the most proficient with the multimeter, and it's not audible. But I don't get any reading between ground and neutral compared to conductive objects I tried. Also, I have these other handy tools that appear to indicate I am getting 120V with the unit on, and the other plug indicates open ground which I take to mean neutral and ground are not shorted. This make any sense? So the adapter is the Achilles heel?

View attachment 43424
You have to check it when connected to the V2L adapter. Since the adapter you have is a Schuko, it's not directional, so it can be plugged in both ways in a schuko outlet. And if the adapter had a short between neutral and ground, pluging it in the other way gives it a short to ground.
Here where we have a ground fault breaker on all new electric fuses, it would trip even when connected neutral to neutral also.
 

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I've charged our Model 3 from ur Ioniq 5 with the provided Hyundai EVSE with no problem. The issue is with the Tesla Universal Mobile Connector which does not charge for me either. If you are in the US then you should be able to use the J1772 to Tesla adaptor and the Hyundai EVSE together and I think it will work fine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
I've charged our Model 3 from ur Ioniq 5 with the provided Hyundai EVSE with no problem. The issue is with the Tesla Universal Mobile Connector which does not charge for me either. If you are in the US then you should be able to use the J1772 to Tesla adaptor and the Hyundai EVSE together and I think it will work fine.
Wow, I had never considered the Tesla travel cord the culprit! I will test this as soon as the new V2L arrives from Hyundai. I did purchase a Lectron J1772 to Tesla adapter. If this works I owe you a big hug, LOL!!
 

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Confirmed, I just ordered V2L at the dealer. $230. Maybe only a couple days, possibly up to a week per delay notice. Not bad.
So this is the part number- GIH68-AK0A0
I just paid $260 at my local dealership. Probably could’ve found it cheaper online had I known this was the actual part number. Much cheaper than what I’ve seen online though. I’ll have it in two days.
 

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TL;DR at the end

The adaptor is grounded through the two prongs at the top and bottom that contact a plate in the adaptor.
The other poster is probably correct in that the Tesla can't confirm a real ground as the car has none. The ground to neutral might work but a particularly smart EVSE might still complain.
This is the case, although it looks like y'all sorted that out.

Bummer. Ethics aside, we were hoping to tap into our free charging and funnel some of that to our Tesla.
That seems like a bad idea, even ethics aside, based on efficiency and how GD long it'll take. If you want to charge the tesla 10-80, you're looking at sub-50% efficiency and like 50+ hours of sitting around waiting for it to happen. You'd be limited by 1) 1300W maximum charge rate into the tesla 2) ~300W burned in the Tesla just keeping the computers on 3) ALSO 2-300W burned in the Ioniq 5, same issue. So you'd probably have to DCFC the I5 3 times to fill the tesla up once, and you'll spend 50 or 60 hours of plug time doing it.

Can anyone confirm that an EVSE like this will work even with the US spec V2L? Is it possible that none of the V2Ls are grounded in such a way as to allow this kind of use?
I can. The US-spec V2L has a properly bonded GND+Neutral, as you can see in the last picture here (yellow-green earth wire bonds over to blue neutral) Inside the Hyundai/Kia V2L Connector Admittedly, I didn't get specific about that or provide a full schematic.

Did you "ACTUALLY" measure the continuity between Neutral and Ground terminals (N and PE as shown below) on your Canadian V2L adapter? As far as I know, 120VAC in U.S. and Canada are same. Neutral is NOT supposed to be tied to Ground. Ground is earth ground for residential and commercial buildings, and chassis ground for vehicles.
It's been pointed out, but this is wrong. Neutral and Earth should be bonded at exactly one point: the source of power into the home. That's at the primary service in a household installation, and nowhere else, to make sure there's ONLY fault current on the ground conductor. In a generator scenario, which this is, that needs to happen at the inverter, which is why the USA V2L adapter is wired this way.

Stupid question maybe, but how can the ground going into the car, be 'grounded' ? (Unless you ground the chassis with a clamp)
Not a stupid question, and confuses literally everyone who's not an electrical engineer or electrician. "Ground" does not necessarily mean literal earth, although that's usually the case, and there's nothing magical about the earth, other than it's a half decent conductor and by convention every AC distribution system uses it in some capacity or another.

The point of a ground wire is to carry fault current when you drop your metal toaster, stuff inside breaks, and the hot lead comes in contact with the metal shell. Contrived example, but that's the crux of it. It should be safe to touch, and robust enough to trip the breaker if a hot wire shorts to it.

Wow, I had never considered the Tesla travel cord the culprit! I will test this as soon as the new V2L arrives from Hyundai. I did purchase a Lectron J1772 to Tesla adapter. If this works I owe you a big hug, LOL!!
The fault isn't the tesla cord - the tesla cord is just VERY robustly engineered with excellent safety considerations, and won't work in detectably-unsafe conditions.

TL;DR: you want one of these: a ground-neutral bonding plug. It'll solve your problem, and in this application it's perfectly safe:

The issue at hand is that ground needs to be connected to neutral somewhere, or ground is open, and that's the fault the Tesla cord detects.
In USA NEMA 5-15 plugs, the current carrying conductors are polarized: one carries the 120VAC hot phase and one carries neutral, defined by tying it to the system ground back at the main service, for safety reasons stated above. The only thing the Tesla UMC cares about is that current can flow between neutral and ground, implying that the ground return path is valid in case a fault happens.

I'm surmising from the info here that Korean electrical installations don't have a concept of plug polarity, and thus the Korean V2L adapter doesn't bond either pin to the ground pin like the North American adapters do, hence needing to make one of those cheater plugs like in the video above.
 
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