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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My wife had a brilliant idea to try and charge her Tesla 3 with the V2L feature. I bought an OEM V2L adapter from S Korea on eBay and an outlet adapter on Amazon per advice on another thread. We used the Tesla supplied cord that we normally use to charge the 3. But as soon as we fired it all up, a red light appeared on the 3 next to the charging port, and the interior screen said there was inadequate outlet grounding. The 5's screen said it was transferring V2L. Any idea which of the many components was failing?

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Check if the ground slot of the adapter is connected to the neutral slot of the adapter. Use a multi-meter with continuity test feature/ohm test. I suspect the ground pin is just floating, and the tesla detects that. The neutral slot is the longer one, and the ground slot is the oval like shape. In US/Canada, the ground and neutral are tied together at your main panel in most cases. The Tesla is checking for a proper ground pin.
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Check if the ground slot of the adapter is connected to the neutral slot of the adapter. Use a multi-meter with continuity test feature/ohm test. I suspect the ground pin is just floating, and the tesla detects that. The neutral slot is the longer one, and the ground slot is the oval like shape. In US/Canada, the ground and neutral are tied together at your main panel in most cases. The Tesla is checking for a proper ground pin.
View attachment 43406
There is only one way I can plug this in. As you see in the pic above, the adapter has two pins, equal shape and size. It does appear there is no grounding pin for the adapter or the outlet in the V2L. Maybe I do have to go with the Hyundai OEM. It'll cost about $225 more.
 

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There is only one way I can plug this in. As you see in the pic above, the adapter has two pins, equal shape and size. It does appear there is no grounding pin for the adapter or the outlet in the V2L. Maybe I do have to go with the Hyundai OEM. It'll cost about $225 more.
I think all you may have to do is to short the neutral slot with the ground slot on the adapter. You would need to take apart the adapter to do this however, or get an adapter that has the proper connections. The neutral slot on the adapter is one the left side where the longer blade goes in from the Telsa EVSE
 

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There is only one way I can plug this in. As you see in the pic above, the adapter has two pins, equal shape and size. It does appear there is no grounding pin for the adapter or the outlet in the V2L. Maybe I do have to go with the Hyundai OEM. It'll cost about $225 more.
The adaptor is grounded through the two prongs at the top and bottom that contact a plate in the adaptor.

The other poster is probably correct in that the Tesla can't confirm a real ground as the car has none. The ground to neutral might work but a particularly smart EVSE might still complain.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The adaptor is grounded through the two prongs at the top and bottom that contact a plate in the adaptor.

The other poster is probably correct in that the Tesla can't confirm a real ground as the car has none. The ground to neutral might work but a particularly smart EVSE might still complain.
Bummer. Ethics aside, we were hoping to tap into our free charging and funnel some of that to our Tesla.
 

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I have a Canadian V2l, I will check later this afternoon if the Neutral and Ground are shorted on it and let you know. i.e. no point in buying a US V2L if the Neutral and Ground are not shorted together
 

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Ok verified that the Neutral and Ground are shorted on the Canadian V2L. I also plugged in my Level 1 EVSE for the Ioniq 5 and it did not show any errors. So I assume it will work, but I couldn't test as I only have one EV vehicle

So please verify first with a multi-meter that your Neutral and Ground are shorted before doing anything else. Plug in your V2L with the adaptor, and then check with a multi-meter if the neutral slot and Ground are shorted (i.e. you hear a beep or around 0 ohms). If these slots are shorted then purchasing a US V2L will not help with your Tesla
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
If I understood correctly, I tested the socket of the V2L where the yellow circles are indicated. There was no continuity on the multimeter. Same on the little US adapter. I tested the unit with the US outlet adapter and successfully powered a phone charger and a leaf blower in the garage. It works! Just not with the Tesla.
I called the local Hyundai dealer to check on a US spec V2L. They didn't have any, but could order. It is so new it wasn't in his system yet. Cost is $230, about the same as the Korean model I bought. It is returnable if it doesn't work, but since it is electrical, I would have to pay a 20% restocking fee.

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If I understood correctly, I tested the socket of the V2L where the yellow circles are indicated. There was no continuity on the multimeter. Same on the little US adapter. I tested the unit with the US outlet adapter and successfully powered a phone charger and a leaf blower in the garage. It works! Just not with the Tesla.
I called the local Hyundai dealer to check on a US spec V2L. They didn't have any, but could order. It is so new it wasn't in his system yet. Cost is $230, about the same as the Korean model I bought. It is returnable if it doesn't work, but since it is electrical, I would have to pay a 20% restocking fee.

View attachment 43413
confused, why would you check continuity between hot and neutral? You should plug in the V2L adaptor, energize it and check AC voltage between the two round prongs. then check voltage on right side and ground (bottom prong - should be 0), and left side and ground - should be 120v. Also, turn OFF and unplug the V2L adaptor and check the continuity on right side and the bottom prong to see if neutral and ground is shorted.
 

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If I understood correctly, I tested the socket of the V2L where the yellow circles are indicated. There was no continuity on the multimeter. Same on the little US adapter. I tested the unit with the US outlet adapter and successfully powered a phone charger and a leaf blower in the garage. It works! Just not with the Tesla.
I called the local Hyundai dealer to check on a US spec V2L. They didn't have any, but could order. It is so new it wasn't in his system yet. Cost is $230, about the same as the Korean model I bought. It is returnable if it doesn't work, but since it is electrical, I would have to pay a 20% restocking fee.

View attachment 43413
Plug in the adapter first, then check the continuity between the left slot (neutral) and the bottom slot (ground). It should beep or show 0 ohms. Do this with the V2L on, as you want to see if the car/Korean V2L/US Adapter combination is providing the proper bonding.

CAR < -- V2L < -- Adapter
From Adapter (Facing Adapter):

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
confused, why would you check continuity between hot and neutral? You should plug in the V2L adaptor, energize it and check AC voltage between the two round prongs. then check voltage on right side and ground (bottom prong - should be 0), and left side and ground - should be 120v. Also, turn OFF and unplug the V2L adaptor and check the continuity on right side and the bottom prong to see if neutral and ground is shorted.
Thank you, hpark21, for the guidance. I am not an electrician. I appreciate the clarification.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Plug in the adapter first, then check the continuity between the left slot (neutral) and the bottom slot (ground). It should beep or show 0 ohms. Do this with the V2L on, as you want to see if the car/Korean V2L/US Adapter combination is providing the proper bonding.

CAR < -- V2L < -- Adapter
From Adapter (Facing Adapter):

Thank you, Imcancu! I am a visual learner, and this helps a lot!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
OK, I am not the most proficient with the multimeter, and it's not audible. But I don't get any reading between ground and neutral compared to conductive objects I tried. Also, I have these other handy tools that appear to indicate I am getting 120V with the unit on, and the other plug indicates open ground which I take to mean neutral and ground are not shorted. This make any sense? So the adapter is the Achilles heel?

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It doesn't appear to be. I just tried the continuity test.
One last test to verify if its an adpater issue or the Korean V2L issue. Do a continuity test with the multi-meter between the prong at the top or bottom of the adapter (on the Korean side), and the ground slot in front of the adaptor (on the US side). If you have continuity here then the problem is with the Korean V2l, otherwise its the adaptor. Do this just with the free adpator, not connected to the V2L. The iilustrations below show where to put the two multi-meter probes. Trry both top and bottom to see if there is any continuity between either the top or bottom prongs with the gound slot.

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
One last test to verify if its an adpater issue or the Korean V2L issue. Do a continuity test with the multi-meter between the prong at the top or bottom of the adapter (on the Korean side), and the ground slot in front of the adaptor (on the US side). If you have continuity here then the problem is with the Korean V2l, otherwise its the adaptor. Do this just with the free adpator, not connected to the V2L. The iilustrations below show where to put the two multi-meter probes. Trry both top and bottom to see if there is any continuity between either the top or bottom prongs with the gound slot.
Yes, I tried that last night. No joy. I ordered two more adapters on Amazon and will return any that don’t work. Hopefully one will do the trick.
 
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