2022 Ioniq 5 Limited AWD, Phantom black, black interior
I appreciate all the feedback. Sure, I do recognize the slow pace of charging. It could be done at a leisurely pace over the weekend, etc. in between outings, and more likely to supplement our usual charging at home. I did not however anticipate the extra draw from both cars' computer activity. In the end, I did pick up the US V2L today, and will have that handy for any other regular V2L uses.TL;DR at the end
This is the case, although it looks like y'all sorted that out.
That seems like a bad idea, even ethics aside, based on efficiency and how GD long it'll take. If you want to charge the tesla 10-80, you're looking at sub-50% efficiency and like 50+ hours of sitting around waiting for it to happen. You'd be limited by 1) 1300W maximum charge rate into the tesla 2) ~300W burned in the Tesla just keeping the computers on 3) ALSO 2-300W burned in the Ioniq 5, same issue. So you'd probably have to DCFC the I5 3 times to fill the tesla up once, and you'll spend 50 or 60 hours of plug time doing it.
I can. The US-spec V2L has a properly bonded GND+Neutral, as you can see in the last picture here (yellow-green earth wire bonds over to blue neutral) Inside the Hyundai/Kia V2L Connector Admittedly, I didn't get specific about that or provide a full schematic.
It's been pointed out, but this is wrong. Neutral and Earth should be bonded at exactly one point: the source of power into the home. That's at the primary service in a household installation, and nowhere else, to make sure there's ONLY fault current on the ground conductor. In a generator scenario, which this is, that needs to happen at the inverter, which is why the USA V2L adapter is wired this way.
Not a stupid question, and confuses literally everyone who's not an electrical engineer or electrician. "Ground" does not necessarily mean literal earth, although that's usually the case, and there's nothing magical about the earth, other than it's a half decent conductor and by convention every AC distribution system uses it in some capacity or another.
The point of a ground wire is to carry fault current when you drop your metal toaster, stuff inside breaks, and the hot lead comes in contact with the metal shell. Contrived example, but that's the crux of it. It should be safe to touch, and robust enough to trip the breaker if a hot wire shorts to it.
The fault isn't the tesla cord - the tesla cord is just VERY robustly engineered with excellent safety considerations, and won't work in detectably-unsafe conditions.
TL;DR: you want one of these: a ground-neutral bonding plug. It'll solve your problem, and in this application it's perfectly safe:
The issue at hand is that ground needs to be connected to neutral somewhere, or ground is open, and that's the fault the Tesla cord detects.
In USA NEMA 5-15 plugs, the current carrying conductors are polarized: one carries the 120VAC hot phase and one carries neutral, defined by tying it to the system ground back at the main service, for safety reasons stated above. The only thing the Tesla UMC cares about is that current can flow between neutral and ground, implying that the ground return path is valid in case a fault happens.
I'm surmising from the info here that Korean electrical installations don't have a concept of plug polarity, and thus the Korean V2L adapter doesn't bond either pin to the ground pin like the North American adapters do, hence needing to make one of those cheater plugs like in the video above.