Hyundai IONIQ Forum banner
201 - 220 of 254 Posts
Hi, I attempted to get this problem serviced under warranty at College Park Hyundai. They said it would be "weeks" before the part came in and I was about to move. Now I am over an hour from the nearest dealer that will service the vehicle, and they want me to come in twice, once for re-verification and once for the repair. So, DIY I guess ...

The twist is that College Park Hyundai gave me a different part number: 84624-GI010. Here's the only place I can find it online:
84624-GI010 Genuine Hyundai WIRING ASSY-CONSOLE EXTN (hyundaipartsdeal.com)

Wondering if there has been an update, or if the dealer just made a mistake. Anyone have a clue on this?
Since no one ever answered... the parts diagram shows 84624-GI010 is the cable that goes back to the center console and gives the (power only) USB jacks between the driver and passenger.
 
Then use the flathead screwdriver in the notch under the felt piece to remove it which reveals a 10 mm hex head bolt.

View attachment 46672
Hi, thanks for all this! Can you (or any other kind fellow in this thread with his/her IONIQ 5 already in hands – alas that's not my case yet) please post here:
  1. The same image but with the felt mat removed, showing the bolt screwed in place
  2. A picture of this 10mm hex head bolt removed from there, showing the measurement of its diameter (taken ideally with a calliper in millimeters, as I assume the thread is metric M-something) as well as the length of its threaded part under the head.
I looked into Hyundai's official part diagram catalogue for IONIQ 5 available online, and although this interior trim part under the dashboard is shown in the exploded view, this bolt is nowhere to be listed. I think I eventually found the part code 1125KC, No. 11254-06201. I'd still like a picture of the bolt in place without the felt mat ;)
 
Here’s an interesting thing in connection with this issue. After previously having USB issues but then not having any for months after installing the June 2023 software update, I drove the car yesterday for the first time since installing the October 2023 update and the USB problem has returned! Coincidence?
 
After a year and a half of intermittent USB problems and five visits to the dealer, their service department finally observed the fault, ordered the replacement part and installed the new part under warranty. So far it works properly.
That is the only issue we have had with our Ioniq 5.
 
Don't normally comment here, but I just did the fix. Haven't had the chance to test the longevity yet, but the process was a lot less intimidating than I thought.

Didn't have to remove the entire center dash cover, I was able to prop it open wide enough to stuff my hand in there and undo the blue clip. I found that it helped if I positioned myself directly under where the blue connector is. Made it easier to position my arm to reach under the cover and have a better grip on the cable.

I was originally going to have this all done at my dealership (they're generally helpful) but they had no available appointments. Figured I'd give it a shot as it's easier than waiting for a spot to open up. Whole thing took me 30 minutes.
 
After a year and half with a faulty USB port ours has finally been replaced by the dealer. On our last regular service I again asked that they check it and it finally malfunctioned while in the shop. It took less than a week to get the part and have it replaced. So far it works. It was the only issue we have had in the nearly two years we’ve had it.
 
I have a number of posts in this thread

I have removed the internal connection and applied nolax. There was temporary improvement.

My phone eventually simply would not connect. It is an old iPhone and I have read that if the lightning connector is worn or dirty it may charge but not connect to CarPlay. I used some electric contact cleaner, a lint free cloth and a toothpick. It was pretty dirty. Immediately connection but short lived

To eliminate my connector I Got an Ottocast Pro on a great Black Friday Amazon deal. It connects great…..but today is was dropping every Few minutes……😡😡😡😡. Problem is still in the car.

When it wast at the dealer a long time ago we told them but of course could not reproduce
 
I have a number of posts in this thread

I have removed the internal connection and applied nolax. There was temporary improvement.

My phone eventually simply would not connect. It is an old iPhone and I have read that if the lightning connector is worn or dirty it may charge but not connect to CarPlay. I used some electric contact cleaner, a lint free cloth and a toothpick. It was pretty dirty. Immediately connection but short lived

To eliminate my connector I Got an Ottocast Pro on a great Black Friday Amazon deal. It connects great…..but today is was dropping every Few minutes……😡😡😡😡. Problem is still in the car.

When it wast at the dealer a long time ago we told them but of course could not reproduce
You can try to unplug the white connector all together and see if it works. The connectivity and power for your wireless device should still work off of the blue plug but you will not be able to charge your phone through that USB port as the white plug is what provides enough power to charge a phone. You would have to plug your phone into another USB port to charge it if that is needed. I have the white plug unplugged in my Ioniq 5 and it still has enough power through the blue plug to power my Motorola MA1 wireless adapter and has worked great.
 
In our case the phone and charging cables worked fine our other vehicle. I did try different cables and cleaning the charging port on the iPhone.
 
Like many of you, I eventually developed the intermittent USB issue where the connection is randomly interrupted and the music or phone call is stopped, then it reconnects (maybe) after a few seconds. Sometimes it can happen 3 times in a row, and sometimes it doesn't happen for a day or two.

I had my 5000 mile service a few weeks ago, and the dealer said "all is well" with the USB port, so they refused to address it under warranty. Despite this being a widespread issue, to my knowledge Hyundai has not acknowledged it with a TSB. I realize that I could probably try to take a video and make multiple trips to a dealer to have it fixed under warranty, but time is money and the part to fix it is $66 and my labor is free.

As a disclaimer, proceed at your own risk, etc etc. If you are not handy then try to get it done under warranty. I've hard-wired dash cams in at least 5 different vehicles now (most are not as easy as the I5 with the Dongar), so I have familiarity with removing trim pieces and working with harnesses but I am not a mechanical guru by any stretch. Most of this is very easy with really the only issue being freeing up the blue harness. I did not disconnect any batteries for this.

The part number is 96120-GI000 (that's the letter I after G, not a 1), and I ordered it from Lakeland Hyundai for $66.74 shipped. It took a week to get to me.

View attachment 46670

As you see the part consists of the main USB harness that plugs into the plastic floor trim piece, and two connectors - one with a white harness that is super easy to replace, and one with a blue harness that is a PITA. You can see in the upper right corner of the picture where the blue harness has a small rectangular clip on the side where you push the top part to free it. Notice also the red and white tape on the wire as this will help you locate the OEM wire under the dash.

The first steps are very easy and involve removing the plastic trim piece and cubby on the floor. Start by using a flathead screwdriver to remove the two plastic clips on the left and right side. If you slide the screwdriver under the center circle to pop it up, the clips will easily come out. Then use the flathead screwdriver in the notch under the felt piece to remove it which reveals a 10 mm hex head bolt.

View attachment 46671

View attachment 46672

Once those three things are removed, the plastic trim piece should be easily to rock back and forth. There are four plastic clips at the top that hold the piece in. If you kinda rock it some and put gentle pressure on the sides you should be able to eventually free up the entire trim piece. Do not yank with all of your might as there are two wires connected to the USB port and the 12V adapter. There is some slack in the wires, but still be careful.

View attachment 46673

This is what the underside of the plastic piece looks like. Unclip the 12V adapter harness and then push on the clips on both sides of the rectangular black USB harness to remove it (you can look at the new USB part for reference on where to push). Once these two wires are free you can put the big plastic trim piece out of the way.

View attachment 46678

This is how it looks once the USB harness is removed. The white harness connection is seen in the background, and the blue PITA connector is under the dash. You can unclip the white harness connector now.

View attachment 46675

So for my hands to fit under the dash, I had to loosen the trim piece to give me room. The lower dash is made of three plastic trim pieces - under the steering wheel, the center part, and the glove compartment. The part of the center trim piece next to the steering wheel is connected to a lot of pieces and is not easily freed. The bottom right of the center trim piece is easily loosened by a gentle tug under the corner as seen in the picture.

View attachment 46676

Here's where the fun begins. So the red part of the wire is exposed right under the dash once you remove the center trim piece a few steps ago. This picture is taken as I'm lying on the floor of the passenger foot well. As you can see in this picture, the wire is in a plastic clip right above the red part and then it runs parallel to the dash edge before connecting to a harness that is under the wires seen in this photo. If you put the two USB parts side by side you will have an idea of where the blue harness is by following the length of the wire. You can easily free the wire from the plastic clip by the red marker, so at this point the only thing connected is the blue harness.

View attachment 46677

I laid down on the passenger side of the front row to get the best access to the harness where my head was resting where a passenger's feet would be and I'm looking up to the right. Tugging gently on the center trim piece to give me some room with my left hand, I used my phone's light and laid it beside my head and grabbed the harness with my right hand. You can easily move the other wires out of the way and you will see the blue harness. It is connected to a silver part where there are 3 harnesses or so side by side, and at this orientation it is the right-most plug (towards the driver side). If you look at your new plug, you will see there's a plastic clip on the side where you want to depress the top part to free things up (reference the first picture). If I had smaller hands this part would have been much easier but eventually I got it freed.

After the old piece is removed then you are home free. Insert the blue harness from the new part back into the now open plug (make sure you study the orientation of the harness before removing it- the clip part should be facing away from you). Then run the wire back under the plastic dash and insert the wire back into the plastic clip by the red marker.

Then pop the corner of the center dash trim piece back into place and connect the white harness and the USB harness back into place (there's a yellow TOP sticker to help with orientation). Be sure to reconnect the 12V power adapter harness as well. Grab the center trim piece and pop it back into place by pushing where the four white clips are. Put the 10 mm bolt back in then the felt cover, and pop the two plastic clips on each side.

Hopefully I will have no more Carplay issues now. If you are as frustrated with the intermittent dropping and the dealer as I was, hopefully this will be helpful to somebody!
Thank you, invaluable information!
 
An excellent post and discussion thread. I don’t know if this may help others, but I have had this Android Auto drop-out issue sporadically ever since I picked up my IONIQ5 on 18 September 2022. By March 2024 the USB connection had become completely unusable. After seeing this post and thread I tried to remove the USB cable assembly but I couldn’t get the blue connector off (hands too big, I think). I therefore applied a tiny bit of dielectric grease to the pins of the white connector and shoved everything back in place. I did this on 25 March and as of today (17 May) I have not had a single drop-out. The dielectric grease may have solved it, or I may have shoved the connectors back together more firmly, or a combination of both. Either way, it’s working fine for me now (unless I’ve just jinxed it by posting this explanation)…
 
So i had/have the same issues for months. Tried pretty much everything without luck. Then i found this forum and read about the Jitterbug FMJ. I didnt really wanna spend that much money so i tried to find the cheapest alternative who i thought would do about the same. I bought the Adum3160 digital audio-signal-isolator from Amazon for like 15$.
I absolutely know i will get back to having drop out but using that ive gone from disconnects every few minutes (and 2-3 disconnects at the start before it even stars working) to not a single disconnect in 1 week with about 500 miles driving. I have no idea what this thing does, but it does something.

Overall im still confused about this problem. I tried 3 new usb cables and aawireles. Everytime it worked great for a few days. Then it starts failing again. So our ioniq is able to suck out the quality of new devices? Im serious, how is that even possible that new devices work great a few days and then you can be 100% sure they start failing with your ioniq?
 
Overall im still confused about this problem. I tried 3 new usb cables and aawireles. Everytime it worked great for a few days. Then it starts failing again. So our ioniq is able to suck out the quality of new devices? Im serious, how is that even possible that new devices work great a few days and then you can be 100% sure they start failing with your ioniq?
I know how frustrating that can be. It took over a year to have our malfunctioning USB data port replaced under warranty. Fortunately since then it was replaced ten months ago it has worked flawlessly.
 
If anyone is looking to replace the USB harness I'm selling one. I bought it with the intent of replacing it myself, but I lucked out and the dealer finally acknowledged after several visits that the USB was faulty and it's been replaced under warranty.

Bought from HyundaiPartsDeal.com in February 2024 (can provide invoice), total price including taxes and shipping is $72.20.

Asking for $40 OBO, prefer local pickup in SF Bay Area, willing to ship at buyer's expense.
 
If anyone is looking to replace the USB harness I'm selling one. I bought it with the intent of replacing it myself, but I lucked out and the dealer finally acknowledged after several visits that the USB was faulty and it's been replaced under warranty.

Bought from HyundaiPartsDeal.com in February 2024 (can provide invoice), total price including taxes and shipping is $72.20.

Asking for $40 OBO, prefer local pickup in SF Bay Area, willing to ship at buyer's expense.
Interested, I can't PM because i'm new. email me at k.l.a.u.s.c.h.e@gmail.com

take out the periods in the email
 
Hi everyone! I have the same problem. When I plug the iPhone in, sometimes it drops the Carplay immediately, sometimes after 7 minutes, sometimes after 3 minutes, sometimes it takes 35-40 minutes. Totally random. But it has never lasted more than 1 hour without interruption. Terrible. According to the Hyundai dealership, first my iPhone is faulty (LoL), then my software is too old (iOS 17.6), then my software is too new (iOS 18.01), and then their try it went with an iPhone 14. (I think he tried it for 3 minutes). Then I got an old iPhone 7 with good old software (iOS 15) and it did the same thing. Sometimes when I try a new cable, it seems to work, but then it "learns" in a few hours and drop out again. I tried with 8 types of cables, including good and expensive ones. Any idea? :(Any other new solutions? Most of the topics are 2 years old. This is ridiculous. Thx.
 
2 weeks in with the cheap Adum3160 digital audio-signal-isolator. Still not a single disconnect so far.
@ioniqquser - I also bought one of these Adum 3160 USB Stick following your idea, to see if it would solve the disconnects. Unfortunately, it won't even start the CarPlay using this Adum thing. If I plug it into the USB, it immediately disconnects. In other words, it won't even start. Any idea? :( Thx.
 
201 - 220 of 254 Posts