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Hi everyone! I have the same problem. When I plug the iPhone in, sometimes it drops the Carplay immediately, sometimes after 7 minutes, sometimes after 3 minutes, sometimes it takes 35-40 minutes. Totally random. But it has never lasted more than 1 hour without interruption. Terrible. According to the Hyundai dealership, first my iPhone is faulty (LoL), then my software is too old (iOS 17.6), then my software is too new (iOS 18.01), and then their try it went with an iPhone 14. (I think he tried it for 3 minutes). Then I got an old iPhone 7 with good old software (iOS 15) and it did the same thing. Sometimes when I try a new cable, it seems to work, but then it "learns" in a few hours and drop out again. I tried with 8 types of cables, including good and expensive ones. Any idea? :(Any other new solutions? Most of the topics are 2 years old. This is ridiculous. Thx.
Adum3160 digital audio-signal-isolator worked for me for many months now
 
Could you please annotate that for U.K. RHD vehicles the bottom circular rubber bung on the drivers footrest must be removed revealing a 12mm bolt that needs loosening. This allows the footrest to be loosened and the centre scuttle to be wiggled free as on U.K. cars the centre scutttle has two retaining flaps that fold under the drivers footrest.

So far I’ve cleaned the contacts on the white 12v power harness and reattached but couldnt remove the blue plug despite succesfully depressing the retainer on the side. I exerted so much force I was afraid I’d break something so I simply pushed the blue plug into the socket hard and replaced the retainer on the side. So far I’ve had no disconnects but I’ll report further if I do. I straightened the harness routing too as it was quite convoluted. I purchased a sachet of liquid-moly battery terminal grease as it was the cheapest dielectric grease on Amazon UK but I’ve yet to use it.

*Update, I have not had one dropout yet which is fantastic. Thanks to this guide I have removed the one major frustration with the car.
Thank you from an Aus RHD owner who couldn't work out how to get the centre price out from behind the footrest
 
Like many of you, I eventually developed the intermittent USB issue where the connection is randomly interrupted and the music or phone call is stopped, then it reconnects (maybe) after a few seconds. Sometimes it can happen 3 times in a row, and sometimes it doesn't happen for a day or two.

I had my 5000 mile service a few weeks ago, and the dealer said "all is well" with the USB port, so they refused to address it under warranty. Despite this being a widespread issue, to my knowledge Hyundai has not acknowledged it with a TSB. I realize that I could probably try to take a video and make multiple trips to a dealer to have it fixed under warranty, but time is money and the part to fix it is $66 and my labor is free.

As a disclaimer, proceed at your own risk, etc etc. If you are not handy then try to get it done under warranty. I've hard-wired dash cams in at least 5 different vehicles now (most are not as easy as the I5 with the Dongar), so I have familiarity with removing trim pieces and working with harnesses but I am not a mechanical guru by any stretch. Most of this is very easy with really the only issue being freeing up the blue harness. I did not disconnect any batteries for this.

The part number is 96120-GI000 (that's the letter I after G, not a 1), and I ordered it from Lakeland Hyundai for $66.74 shipped. It took a week to get to me.

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As you see the part consists of the main USB harness that plugs into the plastic floor trim piece, and two connectors - one with a white harness that is super easy to replace, and one with a blue harness that is a PITA. You can see in the upper right corner of the picture where the blue harness has a small rectangular clip on the side where you push the top part to free it. Notice also the red and white tape on the wire as this will help you locate the OEM wire under the dash.

The first steps are very easy and involve removing the plastic trim piece and cubby on the floor. Start by using a flathead screwdriver to remove the two plastic clips on the left and right side. If you slide the screwdriver under the center circle to pop it up, the clips will easily come out. Then use the flathead screwdriver in the notch under the felt piece to remove it which reveals a 10 mm hex head bolt.

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Once those three things are removed, the plastic trim piece should be easily to rock back and forth. There are four plastic clips at the top that hold the piece in. If you kinda rock it some and put gentle pressure on the sides you should be able to eventually free up the entire trim piece. Do not yank with all of your might as there are two wires connected to the USB port and the 12V adapter. There is some slack in the wires, but still be careful.

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This is what the underside of the plastic piece looks like. Unclip the 12V adapter harness and then push on the clips on both sides of the rectangular black USB harness to remove it (you can look at the new USB part for reference on where to push). Once these two wires are free you can put the big plastic trim piece out of the way.

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This is how it looks once the USB harness is removed. The white harness connection is seen in the background, and the blue PITA connector is under the dash. You can unclip the white harness connector now.

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So for my hands to fit under the dash, I had to loosen the trim piece to give me room. The lower dash is made of three plastic trim pieces - under the steering wheel, the center part, and the glove compartment. The part of the center trim piece next to the steering wheel is connected to a lot of pieces and is not easily freed. The bottom right of the center trim piece is easily loosened by a gentle tug under the corner as seen in the picture.

View attachment 46676

Here's where the fun begins. So the red part of the wire is exposed right under the dash once you remove the center trim piece a few steps ago. This picture is taken as I'm lying on the floor of the passenger foot well. As you can see in this picture, the wire is in a plastic clip right above the red part and then it runs parallel to the dash edge before connecting to a harness that is under the wires seen in this photo. If you put the two USB parts side by side you will have an idea of where the blue harness is by following the length of the wire. You can easily free the wire from the plastic clip by the red marker, so at this point the only thing connected is the blue harness.

View attachment 46677

I laid down on the passenger side of the front row to get the best access to the harness where my head was resting where a passenger's feet would be and I'm looking up to the right. Tugging gently on the center trim piece to give me some room with my left hand, I used my phone's light and laid it beside my head and grabbed the harness with my right hand. You can easily move the other wires out of the way and you will see the blue harness. It is connected to a silver part where there are 3 harnesses or so side by side, and at this orientation it is the right-most plug (towards the driver side). If you look at your new plug, you will see there's a plastic clip on the side where you want to depress the top part to free things up (reference the first picture). If I had smaller hands this part would have been much easier but eventually I got it freed.

After the old piece is removed then you are home free. Insert the blue harness from the new part back into the now open plug (make sure you study the orientation of the harness before removing it- the clip part should be facing away from you). Then run the wire back under the plastic dash and insert the wire back into the plastic clip by the red marker.

Then pop the corner of the center dash trim piece back into place and connect the white harness and the USB harness back into place (there's a yellow TOP sticker to help with orientation). Be sure to reconnect the 12V power adapter harness as well. Grab the center trim piece and pop it back into place by pushing where the four white clips are. Put the 10 mm bolt back in then the felt cover, and pop the two plastic clips on each side.

Hopefully I will have no more Carplay issues now. If you are as frustrated with the intermittent dropping and the dealer as I was, hopefully this will be helpful to somebody!
Really well done. I wish there was a kit to change the CarPlay/Android auto to usbc. Heck, it would be cool if you could swap out the 12v “cigarette lighters” for usbc panels ports. That’s what most people end up plugging into them anyway. Why not just save the middle… accessories.
 
Just bought a 2022 Ioniq 5 and straight off the lot the USB port never worked. I took it back in as it only has 19k miles on it and is under warranty til 65k... They ordered a cable, installed it, and said that still didn't fix the issue. Now they are contacting Hyundai Tech Support for next steps. Anyone else have this problem? I've been in a loaner car for a week already and am anticipating multiple weeks to come... blah.
 
First off, thanks to Hodog16 for the great info.

I started down this path, trying to see if the connections were correct and cleaned a few things out. I honestly don't know how you guys are managing to get the blue connector out by just pulling on that crash pad center trim. My hands are too big I suppose.

FWIW, I bought an Aluratek Wireless Adapter a try from Bestbuy for $60 and it's been flawless for two days now. This is my first post so links aren't allowed, but the model number is: AWCPA01F
I bought from them knowing I could take it back if it failed to work. Will report back if other issues arise, but I've used Spotify and Google maps with it quite a bit already and it's been perfect, plus I've always wanted wireless carplay anyway. Wish I would have done this first.

I don't have a way to prove this, but I really think the issue is somehow related to our phones pulling a charge at the same time it's trying to connect to carplay. The fact this little adapter has been flawless makes me think there is nothing necessarily wrong with the USB harness, but perhaps the power draw or the infotainment system software is glitching out. I assume the wifi adapter requires a lot less power to function and therefore doesn't have the disconnect issues.

I'd suggest to first see if your Hyundai dealer will replace it for free, and if not I'd give this Aluratek adapter a shot. For $60 it's an upgrade and seems to be an easy fix.

One note to anyone trying to set it up, I did have an initial issue with bluetooth trying to hijack carplay. Follow the instructions for the Aluratek adapter by connecting to it via bluetooth, but go into your iOS bluetooth settings and forget the Ioniq5 connection. Once I removed the Ioniq 5 from my bluetooth devices it's worked perfectly.

Hopefully this will help some of you.
 
I've been having this problem intermittently for over a year. I was looking at replacing the cable assembly but unfortunately it doesn't appear to be available from any suppliers in the UK. From what I have read, I tend to agree with the previous poster that the problem is likely to be more about providing enough current to charge the phone than problems with the data connection. So I purchased this wireless Android Auto adapter https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0DPHN4Z8H and so far it is working well. Time will tell whether it avoids the problem.
 
I finally replaced cable last night. Thanks so much for the guide. The one thing I found interesting was that the part of the cable that was supposed to be in the wire clip behind the center trim piece... was not. It was solo with a piece of duct tape and foam free standing. It looked like work that was done after the first assembly. Also, the cable was heavily crimped in one area. Anyway, I took it out for a drive after I put everything back together and so far so good!!! I still have my old cable, has anyone ever tracked the lot number for their faulty cable? Thanks again.
 
I don't have a way to prove this, but I really think the issue is somehow related to our phones pulling a charge at the same time it's trying to connect to carplay. The fact this little adapter has been flawless makes me think there is nothing necessarily wrong with the USB harness, but perhaps the power draw or the infotainment system software is glitching out. I assume the wifi adapter requires a lot less power to function and therefore doesn't have the disconnect issues.

Hopefully this will help some of you.
For a year and a half our USB data port only worked about 50% of the time. When it finally misbehaved while in the dealer's service department they replaced it under warranty. It has now been a year and a half and it has worked flawlessly ever since. That leads me to believe the USB harness was faulty.
 
I replaced mine today, the guide was extremely helpful, thank you. Blue connector was a bear!
2022 AWD limited. Only a few hours but so far so good. It used to cut out randomly, no real pattern I could determine. Cut-outs seemed the same between wired Android Auto to my phone and using a wireless adapter ("AAWireless 2").

fyi I've been using a data/power splitter to run power from one of the USB ports in the center console, and just data from the normal data (Android Auto/Car play) port. So no power is being pulled from the data USB port. I did this so that my wireless AA adapter would turn off when the car was off, otherwise the car is parked close enough to the house to constantly try to connect, since the main port has power even when the car is off. This might add to the discussion about the power draw on the port being the issue (since I inadvertently tested that, and it's not the case for me at least).
 
Has anyone tried to connect a powered USB hub to the car's USB port? It would seem the power would then come from the hub rather than the USB outlet.
 
I finally replaced cable last night. Thanks so much for the guide. The one thing I found interesting was that the part of the cable that was supposed to be in the wire clip behind the center trim piece... was not. It was solo with a piece of duct tape and foam free standing. It looked like work that was done after the first assembly. Also, the cable was heavily crimped in one area. Anyway, I took it out for a drive after I put everything back together and so far so good!!! I still have my old cable, has anyone ever tracked the lot number for their faulty cable? Thanks again.
Update for everyone, I haven’t had a single drop of data connection since I replaced the cable. It has been wonderful. Since my data connection never really worked since the time of purchase, this is making me love the experience driving even more. I am a little upset that I had to do it myself but working on my car did give me some satisfaction of keeping my vehicle working correctly.

I still have the old cable. I am considering doing an autopsy on it. I will says that is was fairly crimped in one spot on the cable. Has anyone done an autopsy on their original cable?
 
Just bought a 2022 Ioniq 5 and straight off the lot the USB port never worked. I took it back in as it only has 19k miles on it and is under warranty til 65k... They ordered a cable, installed it, and said that still didn't fix the issue. Now they are contacting Hyundai Tech Support for next steps. Anyone else have this problem? I've been in a loaner car for a week already and am anticipating multiple weeks to come... blah.
I bought a 2022 SE and my data never worked consistently either. I bought a new cable about 5 months ago, just installed it 3 weeks ago and I haven’t had a problem with my data connection dropping out since. The one thing I can say is that it seemed like my vehicle had some work done on it after it was assembled, because the data cable actually wasn’t in the wire conduit I was expecting it to be in. When I replaced the cable, I made sure to not place any stress on that cable. Anyway good luck. I wish I was more diligent like you earlier after my purchase but I was so happy with everything else I dealt with it. 3 years in, I needed to fix it.
 
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