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I tried both grease fix + Jitterburg FMJ = none of them worked. Then I decided just to disconnect the power clip and leave the data port connected of the data port. I always use a wireless carplay adapter, so I don't need charging. The only downside to doing this is hardwired connections won't charge the phone. I haven't seen any other issues so far. It has been stable. I will report back in a few weeks if I see dropouts.
I didn't realize that the data port provided power to the wireless adapter. I assumed you needed both connected to power the wireless adapter and transfer the data. That is interesting.
 
I didn't realize that the data port provided power to the wireless adapter. I assumed you needed both connected to power the wireless adapter and transfer the data. That is interesting.
Yep, that was interesting to me as well. Also, someone talked about using a Y cable to switch the power source so it disconnects after the car is turned off. I don't this solution will work given the data port has enough power to keep the attached device powered.
 
Hello,

Just got my Hi5 limited 2023 August 1st, starting to see some intermittent disconnection. I use AAwireless dongle. I thought the issue was my phone or the dongle so decided to plug directly into the phone when it started disconnecting. To my surprise AA didn't launch.

I've read this whole thread and not sure what's the best course of action I should take.

I'm reading a few options here :
1) apply the grease fix
2) use jitterbug fmj
3) change the whole harness

Which one do you suggest me to start with?
Thanks
 
Hello,

Just got my Hi5 limited 2023 August 1st, starting to see some intermittent disconnection. I use AAwireless dongle. I thought the issue was my phone or the dongle so decided to plug directly into the phone when it started disconnecting. To my surprise AA didn't launch.

I've read this whole thread and not sure what's the best course of action I should take.

I'm reading a few options here :
1) apply the grease fix
2) use jitterbug fmj
3) change the whole harness

Which one do you suggest me to start with?
Thanks
If you are using a wireless dongle, try unplugging the white cable and using the dongle. That USB port will not work for charging your phone but the blue connection provides enough power for data and power to the dongle and you have multiple other USB ports you can use to charge your phone if needed. If the wireless dongle doesn't work with just the blue one, it is easy enough to plug the white one back in. The blue one is the one that is the pita to get to.
 
I have read this entire thread and what an amazing story it is!. Special grease, ordering dongles, taking apart the dash. It is up to Hyundai to fix this problem under warranty. I have printed the whole thread and am taking it to the dealer. I will take this up with Hyundai customer service as well.
 
I have read this entire thread and what an amazing story it is!. Special grease, ordering dongles, taking apart the dash. It is up to Hyundai to fix this problem under warranty. I have printed the whole thread and am taking it to the dealer. I will take this up with Hyundai customer service as well.
I have sent my complaint to Hyundai customer service together with this whole thread. Will keep you informed as to their response.
 
I have read this entire thread and what an amazing story it is!. Special grease, ordering dongles, taking apart the dash. It is up to Hyundai to fix this problem under warranty. I have printed the whole thread and am taking it to the dealer. I will take this up with Hyundai customer service as well.
Keep us posted if they actually fix this issue
 
(I have a number of posts in this thread)

Cliff notes
1 year old
Once in a while would disconnect then progressively got worse

tried wife’s phone and multiple cords with same result

took apart dash and cables. Applied nolax and it was a solid connection for a while

sometime later it would stop connecting for long periods then days (I am sure I tried wife’s phone).

I5 was at the dealer for service. CarPlay amongst other things and could not reproduce. Tried my phone and nothing. Same message to connect a recognized device (or whatever it says). Tried wife’s and it connected WTF

ok simple fix…..AND I believe I tried it but got out a can of electric contact cleaner a toothpick and paper towel. Swabbed the lightning connector…wow that was dirty. Plug it in and connected. Ok works for now!
 
I went to my dealer 2 weeks ago to fix my trunk and also said this problem. I showed them this thread and told that switching to new USB cable probably doesn't help anything. I previously tried that Jitterbug also but it didn't help. Service guy readed this thread and put some electricspray to both connections. Previously my AA dropped like every minute so I stopped using it cause I couldn't handle it. Now 2 weeks after service I haven't had a single dropout so it definedly worked!! Thank you so much @Hodog16 and others in this thread 🙏
 
They emailed they are in contact with the dealer and will phone me about it. I will ask for a usb replacement.
My dealer is replacing the USB port tomorrow. Will update once it is done. I had to tell the dealer I am still under Lemon law and I am in for the same problem 3rd time. This is not cool, but will give it one more try.
 
I tried both grease fix + Jitterburg FMJ = none of them worked. Then I decided just to disconnect the power clip and leave the data port connected of the data port. I always use a wireless carplay adapter, so I don't need charging. The only downside to doing this is hardwired connections won't charge the phone. I haven't seen any other issues so far. It has been stable. I will report back in a few weeks if I see dropouts.
I tried this - it doesn't work!
I've also straightened the cabling, sprayed the white connectors with electrical contact cleaner then applied electrical grease and reconnected, reseated the blue connector. None of these work. I do think that weather conditions affect it possibly. This could be condensation, temperature or electrical interference from the heating/ cooling system.

Update: I've now tried a jitterbug and a bespoke eBay usb power cleaner - neither work for me. The problem definately seems worse in inclement weather but I'm sure it's the ICE usb feed power fluctuations. This will not be resolved until they fit a revised ICE unit (and they definitely won't retrofit new units under warranty - too expensive). This is absolutely crap on a very expensive car. I would be happy if they just integrated waze into the OEM ICE software /firmware.
 
I tried this - it doesn't work!
I've also straightened the cabling, sprayed the white connectors with electrical contact cleaner then applied electrical grease and reconnected, reseated the blue connector. None of these work. I do think that weather conditions affect it possibly. This could be condensation, temperature or electrical interference from the heating/ cooling system.
I went to the dealer and practically said fix it or I am lemoning the car. This is insane. They have ordered two sets of parts, none worked, now they are giving me a rental next week and keeping the car until they fix it.

Short story why should we accept a broken part,
 
now with the potential OTA update for wireless Android Auto and Car Play, we may not need to fix this anymore. Crossing fingers
Not going to be for our I5s

Read from this thread post 9 (79) Hyundai Confirms Wireless AA and CarPlay | Hyundai IONIQ Forum

I don't understand why everyone is thinking this is coming for us... The autoevolution article says it's for cars with ccNc (connected car navigation cockpit.) We don't have that. The Korean announcement includes the wireless update only in the ccNc section.

We have what they call gen5w. For that, the Korean announcement only shows map updates and a radio naming update.

In the autoevolution article it lists the cars this is coming for. Current generation ioniq5's aren't listed. Only new ones (that will have ccNc.) It's worded strangely so maybe that's why the confusion.

"Hyundai will enable wireless Android Auto and CarPlay in systems equipped with the new Connected Car Navigation Cockpit (ccNC), beginning with the new Kona and Kona EV. Additionally, the software update will ship to Hyundai Grandeur, Sonata facelift, the new Santa Fe, IONIQ 5, and Kia EV9. The new Sorento will also get the update at a later time."

That's the new Santa Fe, new IONIQ 5, new Kia EV9, and the new Sorento. Which presumably will all have ccNC.
 
Not going to be for our I5s

Read from this thread post 9 (79) Hyundai Confirms Wireless AA and CarPlay | Hyundai IONIQ Forum

I don't understand why everyone is thinking this is coming for us... The autoevolution article says it's for cars with ccNc (connected car navigation cockpit.) We don't have that. The Korean announcement includes the wireless update only in the ccNc section.

We have what they call gen5w. For that, the Korean announcement only shows map updates and a radio naming update.

In the autoevolution article it lists the cars this is coming for. Current generation ioniq5's aren't listed. Only new ones (that will have ccNc.) It's worded strangely so maybe that's why the confusion.

"Hyundai will enable wireless Android Auto and CarPlay in systems equipped with the new Connected Car Navigation Cockpit (ccNC), beginning with the new Kona and Kona EV. Additionally, the software update will ship to Hyundai Grandeur, Sonata facelift, the new Santa Fe, IONIQ 5, and Kia EV9. The new Sorento will also get the update at a later time."

That's the new Santa Fe, new IONIQ 5, new Kia EV9, and the new Sorento. Which presumably will all have ccNC.
This sucks if current Ioniq 5 cannot be updated to wireless carplay. Do not know why?
 
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