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For a year and a half our USB data port only worked about 50% of the time. When it finally misbehaved while in the dealer's service department they replaced it under warranty. It has now been a year and a half and it has worked flawlessly ever since. That leads me to believe the USB harness was faulty.
I've since determined that mine is simply a dirty port and returned my wireless car play adapter. While the wireless adapter worked great I decided to check once more and found a ton of buildup in my port on my iphone. I used a toothpick and contact cleaner to scrape away lint on the sides and all over and it's been working flawlessly. lol.
 
I feel like I need to post an update. The gist, clean your ports first, especially if you have an iPhone.

I've since determined that mine was simply a dirty port and I returned my wireless car play adapter that I bought from Bestbuy. While the wireless adapter worked great I decided to check once more and found a ton of lint buildup in my port. I used a toothpick and contact cleaner to scrape away lint on the sides and all over and it's been working flawlessly ever since. Feel a bit dumb, but this really should be the first step for many.
 
Does the Ioniq line not have have wireless Android Auto connection? I have a 2023 Ioniq 6, and while the USB connection appears to work fine, the wireless option does not appear to be available. I have pressed and held the voice command button as directed from Android Auto, but it doesn’t connect to the phone. I have a Samsung S21, and it connects fine to other cars.
 
Does the Ioniq line not have have wireless Android Auto connection? I have a 2023 Ioniq 6, and while the USB connection appears to work fine, the wireless option does not appear to be available. I have pressed and held the voice command button as directed from Android Auto, but it doesn’t connect to the phone. I have a Samsung S21, and it connects fine to other cars.
Nope, but there are aftermarket wireless phone projection devices for both Android and iPhone.
 
I replaced mine today, the guide was extremely helpful, thank you. Blue connector was a bear!
2022 AWD limited. Only a few hours but so far so good. It used to cut out randomly, no real pattern I could determine. Cut-outs seemed the same between wired Android Auto to my phone and using a wireless adapter ("AAWireless 2").

fyi I've been using a data/power splitter to run power from one of the USB ports in the center console, and just data from the normal data (Android Auto/Car play) port. So no power is being pulled from the data USB port. I did this so that my wireless AA adapter would turn off when the car was off, otherwise the car is parked close enough to the house to constantly try to connect, since the main port has power even when the car is off. This might add to the discussion about the power draw on the port being the issue (since I inadvertently tested that, and it's not the case for me at least).
6+ hours driving so far, no dropouts
 
I bought a 2022 SE and my data never worked consistently either. I bought a new cable about 5 months ago, just installed it 3 weeks ago and I haven’t had a problem with my data connection dropping out since. The one thing I can say is that it seemed like my vehicle had some work done on it after it was assembled, because the data cable actually wasn’t in the wire conduit I was expecting it to be in. When I replaced the cable, I made sure to not place any stress on that cable. Anyway good luck. I wish I was more diligent like you earlier after my purchase but I was so happy with everything else I dealt with it. 3 years in, I needed to fix it.
Update: They did end up replacing the infotainment system and that fixed the issue.
 
Like many of you, I eventually developed the intermittent USB issue where the connection is randomly interrupted and the music or phone call is stopped, then it reconnects (maybe) after a few seconds. Sometimes it can happen 3 times in a row, and sometimes it doesn't happen for a day or two.

I had my 5000 mile service a few weeks ago, and the dealer said "all is well" with the USB port, so they refused to address it under warranty. Despite this being a widespread issue, to my knowledge Hyundai has not acknowledged it with a TSB. I realize that I could probably try to take a video and make multiple trips to a dealer to have it fixed under warranty, but time is money and the part to fix it is $66 and my labor is free.

As a disclaimer, proceed at your own risk, etc etc. If you are not handy then try to get it done under warranty. I've hard-wired dash cams in at least 5 different vehicles now (most are not as easy as the I5 with the Dongar), so I have familiarity with removing trim pieces and working with harnesses but I am not a mechanical guru by any stretch. Most of this is very easy with really the only issue being freeing up the blue harness. I did not disconnect any batteries for this.

The part number is 96120-GI000 (that's the letter I after G, not a 1), and I ordered it from Lakeland Hyundai for $66.74 shipped. It took a week to get to me.

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As you see the part consists of the main USB harness that plugs into the plastic floor trim piece, and two connectors - one with a white harness that is super easy to replace, and one with a blue harness that is a PITA. You can see in the upper right corner of the picture where the blue harness has a small rectangular clip on the side where you push the top part to free it. Notice also the red and white tape on the wire as this will help you locate the OEM wire under the dash.

The first steps are very easy and involve removing the plastic trim piece and cubby on the floor. Start by using a flathead screwdriver to remove the two plastic clips on the left and right side. If you slide the screwdriver under the center circle to pop it up, the clips will easily come out. Then use the flathead screwdriver in the notch under the felt piece to remove it which reveals a 10 mm hex head bolt.

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Once those three things are removed, the plastic trim piece should be easily to rock back and forth. There are four plastic clips at the top that hold the piece in. If you kinda rock it some and put gentle pressure on the sides you should be able to eventually free up the entire trim piece. Do not yank with all of your might as there are two wires connected to the USB port and the 12V adapter. There is some slack in the wires, but still be careful.

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This is what the underside of the plastic piece looks like. Unclip the 12V adapter harness and then push on the clips on both sides of the rectangular black USB harness to remove it (you can look at the new USB part for reference on where to push). Once these two wires are free you can put the big plastic trim piece out of the way.

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This is how it looks once the USB harness is removed. The white harness connection is seen in the background, and the blue PITA connector is under the dash. You can unclip the white harness connector now.

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So for my hands to fit under the dash, I had to loosen the trim piece to give me room. The lower dash is made of three plastic trim pieces - under the steering wheel, the center part, and the glove compartment. The part of the center trim piece next to the steering wheel is connected to a lot of pieces and is not easily freed. The bottom right of the center trim piece is easily loosened by a gentle tug under the corner as seen in the picture.

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Here's where the fun begins. So the red part of the wire is exposed right under the dash once you remove the center trim piece a few steps ago. This picture is taken as I'm lying on the floor of the passenger foot well. As you can see in this picture, the wire is in a plastic clip right above the red part and then it runs parallel to the dash edge before connecting to a harness that is under the wires seen in this photo. If you put the two USB parts side by side you will have an idea of where the blue harness is by following the length of the wire. You can easily free the wire from the plastic clip by the red marker, so at this point the only thing connected is the blue harness.

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I laid down on the passenger side of the front row to get the best access to the harness where my head was resting where a passenger's feet would be and I'm looking up to the right. Tugging gently on the center trim piece to give me some room with my left hand, I used my phone's light and laid it beside my head and grabbed the harness with my right hand. You can easily move the other wires out of the way and you will see the blue harness. It is connected to a silver part where there are 3 harnesses or so side by side, and at this orientation it is the right-most plug (towards the driver side). If you look at your new plug, you will see there's a plastic clip on the side where you want to depress the top part to free things up (reference the first picture). If I had smaller hands this part would have been much easier but eventually I got it freed.

After the old piece is removed then you are home free. Insert the blue harness from the new part back into the now open plug (make sure you study the orientation of the harness before removing it- the clip part should be facing away from you). Then run the wire back under the plastic dash and insert the wire back into the plastic clip by the red marker.

Then pop the corner of the center dash trim piece back into place and connect the white harness and the USB harness back into place (there's a yellow TOP sticker to help with orientation). Be sure to reconnect the 12V power adapter harness as well. Grab the center trim piece and pop it back into place by pushing where the four white clips are. Put the 10 mm bolt back in then the felt cover, and pop the two plastic clips on each side.

Hopefully I will have no more Carplay issues now. If you are as frustrated with the intermittent dropping and the dealer as I was, hopefully this will be helpful to somebody!
 
I just wanted to say it followed these instructions this weekend and the only deviation I had to make was when unlatching the blue plug, instead of reaching up at it, I pulled the dash enough to get my hand in there from the side (passenger side) to get leverage to release that clip. It took a couple hours to come up with that solution, but that is no fault with these instructions just finger length and hand strength.
I have a wireless CarPlay device hooked up and it worked as desired so there is no reason to think a wired connection would be less effective.
Thanks so much. This was really the only gripe about the car.
 
I've been having this problem intermittently for over a year. I was looking at replacing the cable assembly but unfortunately it doesn't appear to be available from any suppliers in the UK. From what I have read, I tend to agree with the previous poster that the problem is likely to be more about providing enough current to charge the phone than problems with the data connection. So I purchased this wireless Android Auto adapter https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0DPHN4Z8H and so far it is working well. Time will tell whether it avoids the problem.
I've been using this wireless adapter for more than 2 months now and I have not had Android Auto drop out in that time. So for me, it is a fix for this issue. With my smartphone on the wireless charging pad and wireless Android Auto running, I find that the charging rate is sufficient to maintain the phone battery state of charge but not to increase it significantly.
 
Thanks SO much for this HoDog16! I just ordered the part and am hoping to get it replaced this weekend. Question for you and others. Has the issue come back at all for you or anyone else who has replaced this piece. TIA for the info!
 
Thanks SO much for this HoDog16! I just ordered the part and am hoping to get it replaced this weekend. Question for you and others. Has the issue come back at all for you or anyone else who has replaced this piece. TIA for the info!
Has not come back at all for me, 2+ months, completely fixed :)
 
Thanks SO much for this HoDog16! I just ordered the part and am hoping to get it replaced this weekend. Question for you and others. Has the issue come back at all for you or anyone else who has replaced this piece. TIA for the info!
Hasn't come back at all. It's really improved my driving experience. Definitely worth the effort.
 
A couple of years ago I followed these excellent instructions to open up my console, and I reseated the connections of my USB harness, and it was fixed.

This fix worked for about a year-and-a-half. Then it broke again. (Broken == USB cable plugged into phone and car works for Android Auto, but my Motorola MA1 dongle no longer connects.)

So I tried taking it apart and wiggling everything. This time it didn't fix it. So I just ordered a replacement USB harness for $35 online, from HyundaiPartsDeal.com. New harness arrives quickly (thanks!), and appears to be factory new sealed in box. I installed it and... no change. Still doesn't work. So either I got a defective harness, I failed to install it correctly, or my problem lies elsewhere. Sigh. I figured I'd add my experience to the thread in case this helps anyone else with their debugging.
 
With all the discussions in this thread about possible voltage fluctuations being the issue, has anybody ALSO had either (1) bad 12V batteries or (2) ICCU failures?

Both of mine failed on 12/31 and were replaced after a month of waiting on the part. I feel like the orange charging light is coming on too often again like I noticed before the failure. It will come on immediately when parking after an hour drive which just doesn’t make any sense. And my USB port is starting to act up too. Seems like there are maybe some deeper electrical issues with this car.
 
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