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@Pete B:

When you get a chance could you confirm some resistance measurements to verify something for me?

CP to PP (switch on and off):

Switch on - connected, no resistance
Switch off - no connectivity

CP to PE (switch on and off)
Switch on - 62 ohm
Switch off - no connectivity
So it does look like there is just one resistor between PP and PE which is what you are seeing when CP is connected to PP via the switch.

Like I said above I have to dig out the extra j1172 plug and cable I have and do some tests on my US Ioniq 5.

The hardest part is probably getting a 62 ohm resistor, no electronics shops locally. Amazon here I come.

Pete B.
 
Ok ordered some resistor assortments. should be here by Friday. Every time I do something I buy more resistors. I probably have 10,000 resistors in boxes around my workshop. I must get better organized. I will post as soon I as have anything useful.

Pete B.
 
Just a gentle reminder - a little gratitude goes a long way.

I've provided guidance to multiple people in multiple posts in this thread. It's not every day someone provides information to allow others to build their own electrical component that saves them a few hundred dollars over buying it new.

I'd appreciate a like or a thanks now and again otherwise I'm happy to leave this thread and let people continue to stumble around in the dark.
 
@Pete B:

When you get a chance could you confirm some resistance measurements to verify something for me?

CP to PP (switch on and off):

Switch on - connected, no resistance
Switch off - no connectivity

CP to PE (switch on and off)
Switch on - 62 ohm
Switch off - no connectivity
This is strange as I would have expected the CP to PP to have 124 ohms when the switch is On if there are two 62 ohms resistors.
That means the resistors setup is different.
I think that the testing must have the PP to PE as well. The switch might be a dual pole although it does not look like this.
 
I don't believe that the V2L adaptor has two separate 62 ohm resistors per se - there is 62 ohm resistance between PP and PE all of the time and 62 ohm resistance between CP and PE when the switch is on.

So, if you're building your own V2L adaptor you can just wire PP directly to CP (with a switch in between to replicate the switch function on the V2L adaptor). Then the 62 ohm resistor is installed on the wire between PP and PE (at the PE end).

Image below:

Image
 
I don't believe that the V2L adaptor has two separate 62 ohm resistors per se - there is 62 ohm resistance between PP and PE all of the time and 62 ohm resistance between CP and PE when the switch is on.
Exactly what I was thinking. I think the 62 ohm resistor is built into the j1772 connector which is why it is not apparent in the original post images.

Pete B.
 
Exactly what I was thinking. I think the 62 ohm resistor is built into the j1772 connector which is why it is not apparent in the original post images.

Pete B.
I got a barebones connector with soldering pins. The is no resistor but it is supplied with a 220 ohm resistor because it supports 32A. If you install it just for charging, it needs to tell the car or the charger or both it is a 32A cable.
This looks like the same setup of the MG V2L but with a different resistor. I will check it out tomorrow.
 
I got a barebones connector with soldering pins. The is no resistor but it is supplied with a 220 ohm resistor because it supports 32A. If you install it just for charging, it needs to tell the car or the charger or both it is a 32A cable.
I am thinking about getting a connector with cable rated for 20 amps (12 gauge wire) and making up my own V2L adaptor using the information on this thread.

What supplier did you get the barebones connector from?

Looking around for a J-1772 (North American) connector I am not seeing a lot of options. Some sketchy websites claim to have some connectors with 20 amp cables for around $70 US and other less sketchy websites charge over $120 US for just the connector. I guess either way, assuming the sketchy websites actually delivered a usable product, the cost of a home made V2L adaptor, including locally sourced box, switch and outlet, should be between $100 US and $150 US.

One thing that is holding me back a little bit is that I am not sure how the voltage/frequency output is selected. Is it something in the signaling from the V2L adaptor or is it baked into the car based on the market it is shipped to? It sounds like it is baked into the car but it would be nice if someone with a North American V2L adaptor took theirs apart and documented it so we could be sure.
 
I don't believe that the V2L adaptor has two separate 62 ohm resistors per se - there is 62 ohm resistance between PP and PE all of the time and 62 ohm resistance between CP and PE when the switch is on.

So, if you're building your own V2L adaptor you can just wire PP directly to CP (with a switch in between to replicate the switch function on the V2L adaptor). Then the 62 ohm resistor is installed on the wire between PP and PE (at the PE end).

Image below:

View attachment 41065
Just found some time to re-check the connection. This one works. I have used a 68 ohms 0.25w resistor. I am waiting for a switch wil integrated 230v light from Ali. Since I have used volt meter and a resetable circuit breaker, a water proof universal socket with lamps, switches and 2 USB chrging ports, it all cost from Ali about $90. The expensive part is the J1772 plug.
 
Looks like someone on the German Going Electric forum has already documented a DIY V2L adaptor for the Ioniq 5 - Ioniq 5 als Stromspeicher: Vehicle to Load (V2L) - Seite 20 - IONIQ 5 - Allgemeine Themen • Hyundai IONIQ 5 - Elektroauto Forum - in line with what we've have done in this thread. They suggest a 75 resistor (which is within the working "range" noted earlier), however as the Hyundai V2L adaptor uses 62 ohm I'd suggest using that.

That thread also introduces an interesting way to implement V2H/V2G - by powering a DC power supply like a Meanwell CSP-3000-400 and connecting that to a PV inverter's spare DC input.
 
I don't believe that the V2L adaptor has two separate 62 ohm resistors per se - there is 62 ohm resistance between PP and PE all of the time and 62 ohm resistance between CP and PE when the switch is on.

So, if you're building your own V2L adaptor you can just wire PP directly to CP (with a switch in between to replicate the switch function on the V2L adaptor). Then the 62 ohm resistor is installed on the wire between PP and PE (at the PE end).

Image below:

View attachment 41065
Thank you so much for working on this. I'm about to wire some things up this weekend. Did you confirm that this diagram works?

I'll try building one here in the U.S. and see what the output voltage is. I'm curious if it's a software setting, or a switching of the onboard inverter for 120v. vs. 240v.
 
Thank you so much for working on this. I'm about to wire some things up this weekend. Did you confirm that this diagram works?

I'll try building one here in the U.S. and see what the output voltage is. I'm curious if it's a software setting, or a switching of the onboard inverter for 120v. vs. 240v.
The circuit works. I think the converdion is not the same as the nput power while charging is not the same between the US and Europe.
 
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