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Using a potentiometer, the acceptable range is roughly 50-75 ohm to provide V2L power.

Changing the resistance between 80 to 1000 ohm doesn't elicit any response in terms of V2L power. This makes sense on the PP as these would normally be used between the PP to PE to signal maximum cable current (eg. on a Type 2 to Type cable) as follows:

1500 Ω resistor – 13A cable
680 Ω resistor – 20A cable
220 Ω resistor – 32A cable
100 Ω resistor – 63A cable

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SAE_J1772#Proximity_Pilot

I'm not sure whether there may be more advanced signalling on the Control Pilot (CP) in the case of V2G i.e. the bidirectional EVSE would use a more advanced version of current control using a similar PWM duty cycle as a standard EVSE would use to set current limits.

However, I noticed in a video on FullyCharged that Robin Berg from the We Drive Solar Utrecht project stated that they developed their AC charging stations with Renault to use the same protocol as Chademo and that they are now trialing the V2G with 25 Hyundai Ioniq 5 vehicles. Would be great to understand what that means and most importantly what charging station they are using and how that protocol (or updated protocol) is implemented for the Ioniq 5.

Interested in max combined V2L current

Back to V2L and it appears that it is only available on one phase. Unfortunately I don't know how the Inner V2L socket works as it is not available in Ioniq 5 is Australia. While the manual states it can be used simultaneously with the outside V2L connector, I suspect that they are sharing the same inverter/phase and total current limit of 16A.

If anyone can test pulling at least 10A from both the inner and outer V2L we could readily confirm whether it is a 16A limit.

I'd test that myself but it seems very difficult to find let alone buy an inner V2L socket. There is a spare socket in the ICCU to plug it in and I'm confident that it doesn't require any additional software/firmare for it to work.

Picture below from

View attachment 40931
Got 2 68 resistors. Will solder them some time this week and verify.
I hope the 0 ohms I have placed at the beginning will not do any harm. The car now detects the plug but I did not get any 230V at the output.
Since my son has an Ioniq5 as well I can double on his car if I suspect something is not working.
As for the inner V2L, I have seen on one of the Hyunadi clips that the inverter serves both inner and outer and support 16A overall.
In Israel the inner V2L is also not an option with Hyundai but in a few weeks the EV6 will arrive on the market. It is only the basic model so I assume it will not be included.
 
Question, for those that already have the IQ5 (waiting for mine to come in middle of next month), does the V2L under the second row seat work only if the car is on or is it always powered? If it does what the outside adapter does, may eliminate the need for the $549 expenditure.
 
Discussion starter · #43 ·
Question, for those that already have the IQ5 (waiting for mine to come in middle of next month), does the V2L under the second row seat work only if the car is on or is it always powered? If it does what the outside adapter does, may eliminate the need for the $549 expenditure.
Its only on when utility mode is active in the car.
 
Discussion starter · #47 ·
The V2L can provide up too 3.6kw at 240v that's max.

So you can get that from either but not at same time.

Personally I find the inner socket tedious to use as the utility mode needs to be on first.

But my needs are mostly always outside the car so the V2L adaptor is the obvious choice for me.
 
I was looking to see if it were possible to get a 16a extension lead to plug in to the V2L as it feels like a waste to use a normal 13a one... all I found were 15a 'round pin' plugs or 16a commando plugs.

Anyone know if it would it be possible to use one of the commando ones, rewired to a normal UK plug, but with a 16a fuse (assuming that exists)?
 
Would it be possible to develop a V2L adapter, for the US market, that would deliver 18A at 240V? That would make an awesome V2H backup in the event of power failure on the grid.
 
Would it be possible to develop a V2L adapter, for the US market, that would deliver 18A at 240V? That would make an awesome V2H backup in the event of power failure on the grid.
Nothing that I can see in our collective efforts to date suggests that the current limit could be increased above 16A nor that the adaptor would change the voltage and frequency that the ICCU is programmed to provide for the country/market.

If anyone would like to confirm if the US V2L adaptor is any different to the rest of the world, please get a multimeter and test the resistance between the PE and PP pins, and also between the CP and PE pins when the switch is both on and off. These test can be done without plugging in the V2L Adaptor into the car nor needing to disassemble the V2L adaptor.

It's very likely the results will be as follows (but if they're not then that may provide some hope to have the V2L adaptor provide a different voltage).

PP to PE = 62 ohms
CP to PE with switch on = 62 ohms
 
I was looking to see if it were possible to get a 16a extension lead to plug in to the V2L as it feels like a waste to use a normal 13a one... all I found were 15a 'round pin' plugs or 16a commando plugs.

Anyone know if it would it be possible to use one of the commando ones, rewired to a normal UK plug, but with a 16a fuse (assuming that exists)?
If you were to build your own V2L adaptor that has a 16A 3 pin commando socket then you could plug in an off-the-shelf 16A extension cable like this one and a 16A to 13A powerboard like this one.

Image


Image
 
Nothing that I can see in our collective efforts to date suggests that the current limit could be increased above 16A nor that the adaptor would change the voltage and frequency that the ICCU is programmed to provide for the country/market.

If anyone would like to confirm if the US V2L adaptor is any different to the rest of the world, please get a multimeter and test the resistance between the PE and PP pins, and also between the CP and PE pins when the switch is both on and off. These test can be done without plugging in the V2L Adaptor into the car nor needing to disassemble the V2L adaptor.

It's very likely the results will be as follows (but if they're not then that may provide some hope to have the V2L adaptor provide a different voltage).

PP to PE = 62 ohms
CP to PE with switch off = 62 ohms
CP to PE with switch on = 62 ohms
I think tgere is a mistske on the CP pin. It should be few megaohms when switch is off.
Furthermore, I have set the resistors. When plugging the Type 2 connector, the car detects the plug. When I turn on the switch and set the utility mode to on, ono output power and the car indicates utility mode conditions not met and the utility mode returns to off. I hope the short instead of 62 ohms did not harm the car. Since I can guess what is the topology of the circuit I think that is not the case but I have to double check with the original V2L.
 
I think tgere is a mistske on the CP pin. It should be few megaohms when switch is off.
Furthermore, I have set the resistors. When plugging the Type 2 connector, the car detects the plug. When I turn on the switch and set the utility mode to on, ono output power and the car indicates utility mode conditions not met and the utility mode returns to off. I hope the short instead of 62 ohms did not harm the car. Since I can guess what is the topology of the circuit I think that is not the case but I have to double check with the original V2L.
My understanding is that the external V2L adaptor only works when the car is turned off.

I've never tried to use it with the car turned on - whether in utility mode or not.
 
Sorry - typo above, now corrected - there's no connectivity between PE and CP when the switch is off.
When you get a chance could you confirm some resistance measurements to verify something for me?

PP to PE ( you already stated 62 ohms)
CP to PP (switch on and off) - if there are two 62 ohm resistors they would be in series with the switch on and show as 124 ohms in this case.
CP to PE (switch on and off)

I think there is one 62 ohm resistor between PP (Proximity Pilot) an PE (Protective Earth) which is identifying the connector as V2L as soon as it is plugged in.
Then there is a switch to connect CP (Control Pilot) to PP which is why it looks like another 62 ohm resistor.
Connecting CP to PP I think is what initiates the inverter to start supplying AC to the connected socket.
In the original post there is no connection between either CP or PP except the switch and the thermal fuse that are in series so opening the switch or the thermal fuse opening would both break the connection between CP and PP.

Just some observations as I have an Ioniq 5 but I am not paying over $400 USD for a overly fancy AC outlet connector that should cost less than $100.

Pete B.
 
When you get a chance could you confirm some resistance measurements to verify something for me?

PP to PE ( you already stated 62 ohms)
CP to PP (switch on and off) - if there are two 62 ohm resistors they would be in series with the switch on and show as 124 ohms in this case.
CP to PE (switch on and off)

I think there is one 62 ohm resistor between PP (Proximity Pilot) an PE (Protective Earth) which is identifying the connector as V2L as soon as it is plugged in.
Then there is a switch to connect CP (Control Pilot) to PP which is why it looks like another 62 ohm resistor.
Connecting CP to PP I think is what initiates the inverter to start supplying AC to the connected socket.
In the original post there is no connection between either CP or PP except the switch and the thermal fuse that are in series so opening the switch or the thermal fuse opening would both break the connection between CP and PP.

Just some observations as I have an Ioniq 5 but I am not paying over $400 USD for a overly fancy AC outlet connector that should cost less than $100.

Pete B.
There something here. I just did a longer test with the 2 68 ohms resistors (I had no 62 ohms but I assum this is not the case). When plugging the type 2 plug the chrging leds starts blinking, the same as the orivinal V2L. When I switch the 2nd resistor, I get a message saying V2L conditiobs were not met. Of coarse no 230V power. It appears on both the left screen and on the infotainment screen. This meansboth ports (PP and CP) are alive.
I will try to get an original V2L and see but I suspect there is something wrong with the resistors setup.
 
I am just basing my assumption on the original post's images. There are no visible resistors in either place. I could maybe see the 62 ohm between PP and PE being built into the j1772 connector as it always has a resistor there of some value. The other resistor between CP and PE seems a lot less obvious since there doesn't appear to be any connection between CP and PE just between CP and PP via the thermal fuse and switch. I have a spare connector, I will have to dig it out and do some testing myself.

Pete B.
 
I am just basing my assumption on the original post's images. There are no visible resistors in either place. I could maybe see the 62 ohm between PP and PE being built into the j1772 connector as it always has a resistor there of some value. The other resistor between CP and PE seems a lot less obvious since there doesn't appear to be any connection between CP and PE just between CP and PP via the thermal fuse and switch. I have a spare connector, I will have to dig it out and do some testing myself.

Pete B.
Waiting for your results.
 
@Pete B:

When you get a chance could you confirm some resistance measurements to verify something for me?

CP to PP (switch on and off):

Switch on - connected, no resistance
Switch off - no connectivity

CP to PE (switch on and off)
Switch on - 62 ohm
Switch off - no connectivity
 
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