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Jim Pattison Surrey, but i think all Jim Pattison hyundai are all the same listed price.
Called them today and he said it's $387 for 5 liters but some take a bit more and have paid ~$600 like uber drivers. It depends how much you have driven which seems odd.
He also said you don't need the change at 36 months only go by the mileage which is every 60k kms
 
It’s more annoying that it’s approx. $800 in Ontario and $400 in B.C., a point I’ll be discussing with them over the weekend.
I think it comes down to if the dealer invested in the special pump tool to perform the coolant change. If they don't then they need to remove the entire front bumper assembly to access the drain which will increase in labor cost.
 
I just got home from Jim Pattison Hyundai in Surrey BC Canada after getting my 2024 IO5 charging port door replaced under warranty. While there, I inquired about the LC coolant change due on my car in a couple of years. I was shocked when they said it didn't need to be changed until 60 Mo. or 60K NOT the 36 Mo. originally listed and ....... the price listed was $387 Cdn ($276 US) plus tax. WHAT A RELIEF! I talked with one of the service guys and he said they were familiar with the procedure as they had done it a fair number of times mostly due to cars needing the ICCU replaced (which also required the LC coolant change). I suspect the interval change is likely due to them not knowing exactly how quickly the new coolant would deteriorate. This is Gen. 2 as the first LC coolant broke down quite quickly due to crystallization formation or something like that. Any way......What a relief. My AWD IO5 has been such an enjoyable car to own and drive. My previous car was a little Accent HB so, a HUGE change in size, noise, power, and comfort. View attachment 58941
I was there this week for the ICCU update and asked them to make a note on the invoice to the effect that the LCC change was not needed until 60k or 60 months in conflict with the 36 months in my 2022 manual (I'm at 30k kms). They basically refused (manager too) to write anything on the invoice so I took a photo of my invoice and the revised schedule like you posted. Not impressed!
 
I wish, at this point, just put out a TSB saying regular coolant is OK or still compliant. I mean, 2025 i5 doesn't even have the second loop, EV6 doesn't have second loop so why is LC coolant even needed for at this point? (Also, really needed to be changed every 40k miles?)
 
Two months ago I called our dealer and was quoted $350 for the low conductivity coolant fluid change/flush. A month later when I called to make an appointment to do the change I was told the cost would actually be $750. I cancelled the appointment and called the next nearest dealership that is a 500 mile round trip drive. They quoted a cost of $980. So last week I went back to our "local" dealer to have the LCC done and it ended up costing only $525. Not great but it could have been worse.
 
Check this out.


I was quoted $1200 for a low conductivity coolant swap from my local Hyundai dealership. The KIA dealership down the road quoted me $295 using the SAME coolant part number. (Canada)
um022ch270

You will see part number 00232-19113 listed all over the place for low conductivity coolant for the Ioniq 5.

I have now spoken to two separate parts departments at Hyundai dealerships that confirm UM022-CH270 is the NEW part number for this coolant.

Many people will tell you that Kia dealerships cannot do this service because their cars do not use low conductivity coolant.

However, if you google the above part number, or something like "BSC-2 TSB", you will come across multiple NHTSA TSBs . Some for Hyundai and some for Kias


You will even see in the TSB, that the procedure requires a coolant flushing set. with a part number of KQ253-CV158-QQH


From my perspective, there is nothing proprietary about their coolant or their procedure. In my opinion they're simply attempting to make ridiculous markup to cover the loss of service revenue from EV's.

I have contacted Hyundai corporate and CBC marketplace. We will see where this goes.
 
Got my second quote today for this work here in Honolulu, where there are really only two Hyundai dealers.

Some time ago dealer #1 quoted me $680 for the job -- they had just received the vacuum pump widget from Hyundai and were only beginning to play around with it.

Today dealer #2 (talkin' bout you, Tony Hyundai of Waipio) quoted me $870 for a "manual" replacement. They do not have the vacuum pump and do not plan to get one, and instead somehow do three drain/refill cycles manually, WhateverTF that means. I sure hope for the sake of their EV techs sucking on the hose that the blue koolaid tastes better than it looks.

Is this "manual" replacement really a thing, has anyone else ever heard of a reputable service department doing this? And where would you take your own I5, to the cheaper dealer #1 using the vacuum pump or the more expensive dealer #2 with the shall we say more artisanal approach? 😉
 
Got my second quote today for this work here in Honolulu, where there are really only two Hyundai dealers.

Some time ago dealer #1 quoted me $680 for the job -- they had just received the vacuum pump widget from Hyundai and were only beginning to play around with it.

Today dealer #2 (talkin' bout you, Tony Hyundai of Waipio) quoted me $870 for a "manual" replacement. They do not have the vacuum pump and do not plan to get one, and instead somehow do three drain/refill cycles manually, WhateverTF that means. I sure hope for the sake of their EV techs sucking on the hose that the blue koolaid tastes better than it looks.

Is this "manual" replacement really a thing, has anyone else ever heard of a reputable service department doing this? And where would you take your own I5, to the cheaper dealer #1 using the vacuum pump or the more expensive dealer #2 with the shall we say more artisanal approach? 😉
I read on the procedure to flush coolant manually requires removing entire front bumper cover along with the front ventilation flaps to access the drain outlet for the blue coolant and that would result several billable hours to do so.
Having the special hyundai pump equipment requires no bumper removal thus less billable hours.

I would go with dealer with the special pump.
 
Got my second quote today for this work here in Honolulu, where there are really only two Hyundai dealers.

Some time ago dealer #1 quoted me $680 for the job -- they had just received the vacuum pump widget from Hyundai and were only beginning to play around with it.

Today dealer #2 (talkin' bout you, Tony Hyundai of Waipio) quoted me $870 for a "manual" replacement. They do not have the vacuum pump and do not plan to get one, and instead somehow do three drain/refill cycles manually, WhateverTF that means. I sure hope for the sake of their EV techs sucking on the hose that the blue koolaid tastes better than it looks.

Is this "manual" replacement really a thing, has anyone else ever heard of a reputable service department doing this? And where would you take your own I5, to the cheaper dealer #1 using the vacuum pump or the more expensive dealer #2 with the shall we say more artisanal approach? 😉
Unfortunately you are in a captive market with bad options. Independents are even worse. Don't get me started on how badly Lex Brodies ripped off my mother.

The "manual" replacement is simply repeatedly diluting the old stuff with new stuff by draining old and then topping it off. So if they only get 60% out each time (just pulling #s out my okole), then after 2 flushes there would be (.4*.4=) 16% old stuff left, or 84% new fluid. If they did the flush 3x, as they said, getting 60% out each time then they would have (.4*.4*.4=) 6% old fluid, or 94% new fluid, which is pretty good. This assumes they thoroughly mix old and new between drains, which I think requires running the water pumps for a good amount of time. Also wondering if they pull the bumper to drain, or if they're just pumping fluid out of the reservoir, which would be pretty bare minimum (ask them!). Would make a huge difference in what % they remove each time. Bottom line, this method is wasteful, as you have to use more coolant than the car actually needs, and that stuff is expensive. Plus, you probably end up with less new coolant in the end. I would go with the dealer that has the tool if I had to take it in, but personally on my '22 I'm going to try draining/refilling with pressure and vacuum coolant system tools I already have, plus a scanner to run the water pump to get the bubbles out. I just ordered 3 gallons of coolant.
 
Daedalus please post your experience R&R! I'm sure there's lots of interest.
Got an email this morning. Unfortunately the blue coolant is apparently on nationwide backorder, and my order was cancelled. Hyundai can't seem to manage inventory very well. The ICCU was bad enough, but it should be pretty darn easy to estimate how much maintenance items will be needed. It's not like there's an aftermarket alternative.
 
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