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How strong of a hitch do you need? I am just mounting a bike rack....
For me, I'm migrating from a roofrack solution for my bike carrying, and therefore it makes sense to have a two inch solution. I also pull a utility trailer (infrequently) for short distances for those Home Depot trips, or more relevantly, sometimes a yard of soil from the local nursery, or a dump run of building rubble etc. But even if this wasn't the case, a 2 inch receiver suggests that the hitch is not the limiting factor in towing capacity and any reasonable future owner may fall back on the vehicle towing capacity as the limiting factor.

It would be comforting to know that the SRG would be rated for the 2000 pounds of the car.
 
Sorry to spam this thread, but Doctordoctor's comments made me research further and I thought I'd share.

Datapoint 1: I've emailed SRG to ask their opinion, I will provide feedback here on what they have to say. I've directly asked if the towing capacity will remain limited to the vehicle's limit or if this must be reduced based on the mounting points.

Datapoint 2: I started thinking about whether a bike rack is limited by the tongue weight limits and what the lever effect will do to that. My initial thought was that a bike rack, especially when considering the lever effect, would likely be harder on the hitch mounts to the car frame than a utility trailer that has its own axle. You don't tow a bike rack, you carry it! The tongue weight limit is 200 pounds, and a couple of bikes plus the rack would easily hit 150 pounds. Lever effect would take up the rest of the 200 pound limit. A four bike carrier would never be under 200 pounds, so I'll be forgetting that.

I now feel that the mounting points are MORE IMPORTANT for bike carriers than for regular towing. This thread was an interesting read: Tongue Weight and Bike Racks | Mountain Bike Reviews Forum (mtbr.com)

I feel a bit like dr. doom here. I'm no engineer so maybe I'm missing something fundamental. I'd love to hear other views on this.
 
From personal experience... I have a Ford cmax With a 1.25" hitch installed by Uhaul. I have a 2" hitch adapter and use a 4 bike rack all the time. Full sized bikes and no issues since... I'm not to worried about the tongue weight. But that's just me
 
I've emailed SRG to ask their opinion, I will provide feedback here on what they have to say. I've directly asked if the towing capacity will remain limited to the vehicle's limit or if this must be reduced based on the mounting points.
Interested to hear what you find out from further discussion with them. I got the feeling there was a bit of a language barrier so I didn't continue further questions. I'm no engineer either so I wasn't even sure what questions to ask.

I'm also prepared to wait (and pay more) for the Torklift product as I know it will be well built and they are well established and will stand behind their product.
 
I got a copy of the Torklift installation manual from someone in the Facebook group who received their hitch, looks like it uses a similar / identical mounting method to the OEM hitch with the separate side plates


I'm kind of kicking myself that I debated getting the one from SRG and didn't order it from Torklift during the pre-order for ~$360 as the price is now US$414. Still pretty much double the price of SRG and a much bigger pain to get here in Canada.
 
No response from SRG yet. Likely a language thing. Getting the Torklift to the Toronto area will be expensive but I too think it may suit my needs better. It's a bit frustrating that I can't support local, who wants to support the shipping companies and greenhouse gasses more than necessary!
 
SRG has not responded to my email, for those that are waiting for that. It could be difficult for them to make guarantees if they have not done any testing, so I think I'm going to give up on expecting a response.

interesting that the instructions dictate removal of the whole bumper to install (I guess because the cut required?) where as the OEM one does not need that removed for the install
Based on pictures I've seen here on different threads, it DOES look like the Torklift fits higher on the bumper and would require more surgery. Unlike others (incl the OEM), I'd prefer the higher mounting point, aesthetically and for ground clearance. I've ordered the Torklift, despite missing the pre-prod special, the higher product cost, shipping and possibly duties. Long-term I think it will better fit my needs better.
 
This is a copy of my discussion, perhaps it;ll help someone. However, I just spent $900 installing the Hyundai tow hitch class 1 after the parts guy told me I could just use a converter from a 1.25 to a 2" but turns out that's not true at all, unfortunately, at least not for my bike rack.. don't know what to do at this point..

"My electric car is being outfitted with a genuine OEM 2022 Hyundai IONIQ 5 Tow Hitch... with a 1.25inch receiver.Manufacturer Part Number: GIF61-AU000

I have a HR 1500 Hollywood bike rack for 2 fat tired bikes that I plan to put on the hitch.
Each of my fat electric bikes weigh 67 lbs for a total of 114-134 lbs (with-without batteries) that I would need to carry.
Will this work and do I need anything else?

Research is leaving me confused as what to do that is safe, for US/UK/Canada standards:
Does anyone know what the towing capacity of the Ioniq 5...

If I keep at below 60mph, what do I need to buy to make sure I use this carrier properly and safely adapter/ball mount/hitch ball etc..?

Should I also get what you recommended in another post for another car/carrier:
If you decide to get the bike rack, then you will also want to get the Thule Snug Tite Hitch Lock and Anti-Rattle Device # THSTL2 and the Thule Cable Lock # TH538XT. These will help prevent theft of your bike rack and bike. If you have a bike that has an alternative, womens, or kids bike frame then I recommend the Thule Bike Adapter Bar # TH982XT which will help your bike to hang on the bike rack properly.

and

There are two adapters we carry that will fit a Class I hitch and expand to a 2 inch hitch receiver, but they will reduce the tongue weight of your hitch by 50. Most Class 1 trailer hitches have a max tongue weight capacity of 200 lbs, so reducing that to 100 lbs and then adding the weight of your rack and bikes you would need to be under 100 lbs. This may work fine for a 2 bike rack with normal bikes, but you wouldnt use the adapter for towing the U-Haul 4x8 trailer.

The adapters are the Brophy # HTAD or the Brophy Hitch Adapter with 5inch Rise # HT5R.

For towing, you wont have the reduction in tongue weight if you use the ball mount # C45018. You will then use the pin and clip # F-4 and hitch ball # C40018. I recommend using a bag like # ETBMB when not in use.

Answer:
I am sorry but the Hollywood Racks Sport Rider SE Bike Rack for 2 Electric Bikes - 2" Hitches - Frame Mount item # HLY84FR only fits class III hitches. This isn't just the size of the receiver opening its the strength of the hitch and how it attaches to the frame of your vehicle. To attach the bike rack to your vehicle would not only void every warranty that comes with that bike rack but it would also require the use of a hitch adapter. Using a hitch adapter will reduce your hitches capacity by 50%. You would need to have a hitch with the capacity to carry twice as much as your bike's and the weight of the rack to accomplish what you want to do. I took this line from the instructions you sent me:

All dealers must determine if the Net weight they have added in the form of all options or accessories, when added to the weight of all Port/Dealer Installed options or accessories, exceeds the lesser of 1.5% of GVWR or 100 lbs.

Your bikes at their lightest are 114 lbs and the rack is 63 lbs. In order to attach this weight to your vehicle, with an adapter, you would need a hitch that is rated for just over 350 lbs of tongue weight.

You can confirm this information with the dealership installing your hitch and purchase the Hitch Adapter 1-1/4" to 2" Trailer Hitch Receiver item # HTAD you were looking at. Mechanically this will work and it will all connect to your Ioniq but weight wise from what I am understanding you will be significantly over your capacity. Plus you will void the warranty by attaching the bike rack to a Class I hitch as it is rated for a Class III.

I know this was not the answer you were looking for but this is not a speed influenced question your vehicle just does not have the ability to accomplish what you are wanting it to do.







Leave me some feedback:
https://www.etrailer.com/expert_feedback.aspx?ID=621896

If you have any other questions please call 1-800-298-8924 to speak to one of our Customer Service representatives.
Thank You,
Jerred H
https://www.etrailer.com
Web page question was asked on:
https://www.etrailer.com/p-HTAD.html

Vehicle : 2022 Hyundai Ioniq"
 
This is a copy of my discussion, perhaps it;ll help someone. However, I just spent $900 installing the Hyundai tow hitch class 1 after the parts guy told me I could just use a converter from a 1.25 to a 2" but turns out that's not true at all, unfortunately, at least not for my bike rack.. don't know what to do at this point..

"My electric car is being outfitted with a genuine OEM 2022 Hyundai IONIQ 5 Tow Hitch... with a 1.25inch receiver.Manufacturer Part Number: GIF61-AU000

I have a HR 1500 Hollywood bike rack for 2 fat tired bikes that I plan to put on the hitch.
Each of my fat electric bikes weigh 67 lbs for a total of 114-134 lbs (with-without batteries) that I would need to carry.
Will this work and do I need anything else?

Research is leaving me confused as what to do that is safe, for US/UK/Canada standards:
Does anyone know what the towing capacity of the Ioniq 5...

If I keep at below 60mph, what do I need to buy to make sure I use this carrier properly and safely adapter/ball mount/hitch ball etc..?

Should I also get what you recommended in another post for another car/carrier:
If you decide to get the bike rack, then you will also want to get the Thule Snug Tite Hitch Lock and Anti-Rattle Device # THSTL2 and the Thule Cable Lock # TH538XT. These will help prevent theft of your bike rack and bike. If you have a bike that has an alternative, womens, or kids bike frame then I recommend the Thule Bike Adapter Bar # TH982XT which will help your bike to hang on the bike rack properly.

and

There are two adapters we carry that will fit a Class I hitch and expand to a 2 inch hitch receiver, but they will reduce the tongue weight of your hitch by 50. Most Class 1 trailer hitches have a max tongue weight capacity of 200 lbs, so reducing that to 100 lbs and then adding the weight of your rack and bikes you would need to be under 100 lbs. This may work fine for a 2 bike rack with normal bikes, but you wouldnt use the adapter for towing the U-Haul 4x8 trailer.

The adapters are the Brophy # HTAD or the Brophy Hitch Adapter with 5inch Rise # HT5R.

For towing, you wont have the reduction in tongue weight if you use the ball mount # C45018. You will then use the pin and clip # F-4 and hitch ball # C40018. I recommend using a bag like # ETBMB when not in use.

Answer:
I am sorry but the Hollywood Racks Sport Rider SE Bike Rack for 2 Electric Bikes - 2" Hitches - Frame Mount item # HLY84FR only fits class III hitches. This isn't just the size of the receiver opening its the strength of the hitch and how it attaches to the frame of your vehicle. To attach the bike rack to your vehicle would not only void every warranty that comes with that bike rack but it would also require the use of a hitch adapter. Using a hitch adapter will reduce your hitches capacity by 50%. You would need to have a hitch with the capacity to carry twice as much as your bike's and the weight of the rack to accomplish what you want to do. I took this line from the instructions you sent me:

All dealers must determine if the Net weight they have added in the form of all options or accessories, when added to the weight of all Port/Dealer Installed options or accessories, exceeds the lesser of 1.5% of GVWR or 100 lbs.

Your bikes at their lightest are 114 lbs and the rack is 63 lbs. In order to attach this weight to your vehicle, with an adapter, you would need a hitch that is rated for just over 350 lbs of tongue weight.

You can confirm this information with the dealership installing your hitch and purchase the Hitch Adapter 1-1/4" to 2" Trailer Hitch Receiver item # HTAD you were looking at. Mechanically this will work and it will all connect to your Ioniq but weight wise from what I am understanding you will be significantly over your capacity. Plus you will void the warranty by attaching the bike rack to a Class I hitch as it is rated for a Class III.

I know this was not the answer you were looking for but this is not a speed influenced question your vehicle just does not have the ability to accomplish what you are wanting it to do.







Leave me some feedback:
https://www.etrailer.com/expert_feedback.aspx?ID=621896

If you have any other questions please call 1-800-298-8924 to speak to one of our Customer Service representatives.
Thank You,
Jerred H
https://www.etrailer.com
Web page question was asked on:
https://www.etrailer.com/p-HTAD.html

Vehicle : 2022 Hyundai Ioniq"

You need a class III 2 inch hitch to carry several eBikes. This is made super clear on most of the web pages for eBike rear racks. There's no (safe) way to turn a class I (?) 1 1/4 inch hitch into a class III 2 inch hitch.

Your only option is to uninstall the Hyundai hitch and order a aftermarket one (I think one just started shipping).
 
I've ordered the Torklift, despite missing the pre-prod special, the higher product cost, shipping and possibly duties.
Are you getting it shipped directly to Toronto? I was going to get it shipped to Kinek depot near the border and go pick it up myself now that it's easier to cross the border again. Should be no duty (made in USA) just HST. And free shipping within the US. Curious what they charged you to ship it to Toronto if you went that route...

I just got scammed out of C$46 in fees getting a motorcycle seat shipped from the US to Canada via FedEx. HST on the item was only $35 :rolleyes:
 
Are you getting it shipped directly to Toronto? I was going to get it shipped to Kinek depot near the border and go pick it up myself now that it's easier to cross the border again. Should be no duty (made in USA) just HST. And free shipping within the US. Curious what they charged you to ship it to Toronto if you went that route...

I just got scammed out of C$46 in fees getting a motorcycle seat shipped from the US to Canada via FedEx. HST on the item was only $35 :rolleyes:
Ended up shipping direct. I considered Kinek but that's still quite a hike for me plus the boarder crossing which can be a headache even with the mandates lifting. This luxury set me back $171.91 USD and you never know what duties will be. I don't think they always play by the rules when assessing duties and there shouldn't be any (as you say) but, like you, I've been 'scammed' a few times.

A bitter pill to swallow. If anyone is in the hitch fabrication business north of the border, this is a PSA that there's a demand for your talent.
 
Installed my torklift hitch yesterday. (I have little to no experience working on cars)

Strongly recommend lifting rear end, used ramps which worked well.

Tools I wish I had: A very low clearance 90deg or flexible Philips screw driver for working in the wheel well. A set of plastic pry tools for panel removal (bicycle tire levers didn’t quite cut it). For cutting the notch, an oscillating tool. The rotary tool (dremmel) didn’t give enough hand clearance but it will suffice if that’s what you already have.

A couple notes on Torklift’s instructions. These are probably geared towards mechanics, some steps where much more involved.
  1. Removing the bumper was 80% of the: the taillights have to be removed to expose screws and fasteners. In figure 4.2 the screws and headlight are already removed. after these two screws are removed pull straight back on the tail light assembly with some force.
  2. Separating the rear aspect of the arch trim (the one that goes around the wheel well) from the bumper at the rear corners was difficult because the clips are a different type. I was able to access them from below and inside the bumper to disengage.
  3. When replacing the black fairing strip that bridges the cowling to the rear bumper there is a tongue that needs to be trimmed off. It is soft plastic that wants to tuck into the bumper exactly where the hitch passes through the notch that was cut in the bumper. I was able to cut this tongue off With a utility knife, this helped everything lay down much more nicely.

Regarding the bumper cutting: I would recommend starting smaller than the manual suggests ( credit: Corbin). Specifically the 3 1/16" dimension, this could probably be reduced by 3/8-1/2 and inch. Doing so may reduce the gap you can see above my hitch.

Total time was 4 hours being careful and inexperienced. The local hitch shop and dealership quoted me $5–600.

So far there hasn’t been any trouble with the rear sensors or wiring connections.

Image

Image
 
Looks great. Thank you for letting us know about your experience and your tips for install.
Mine will be arriving tomorrow and plan to install soon thereafter.
I do have experience working on cars and have all the tools you recommend. I’m still always a little nervous pulling apart a new car 😀
 
Installed my torklift hitch yesterday. (I have little to no experience working on cars)
Looks great. Not sure if anyone else here saw The Ioniq Guy's video on YouTube it's quite detailed. Curious if you had issues with the clips breaking as he did, or how it can be avoided.

After watching the video I think I'm definitely leaning towards the Torklift hitch, even though it will wind up costing me double the cost of the SRG by the time I get it into Canada. I think the mounting with the plates on either side (similar to the OEM) looks much more secure than what SRG is using, although it's hard to tell exactly how it goes on from their single page instruction sheet with not-great photos.

The Torklift also appears to hit higher and more flush with the rear of the car which should help avoid scraping on sloping driveways and bashing your shin on it while walking around the car. Downside is more cutting of the actual bumper but it isn't really that noticeable.
 
I was fortunate to avoid breaking any clips but I think the end result was the same, except I took another hour or more to get it done. I don’t know how I managed that though; if I had to guess I’d say less prying force favoring more targeted disengagement at the clip.

Next time (if I need a wiring harness) I’ll try pushing the seam forward as Ioniq guy described.

the better ground clearnance sold me on torklift for sure, plus they surely put more thought into their hitch than Hyundai.

The cutting was not that big of a deal. The oscillating saw definitely looked easier to use in the video than my dremmel.

Looks great. Not sure if anyone else here saw The Ioniq Guy's video on YouTube it's quite detailed. Curious if you had issues with the clips breaking as he did, or how it can be avoided.

After watching the video I think I'm definitely leaning towards the Torklift hitch, even though it will wind up costing me double the cost of the SRG by the time I get it into Canada. I think the mounting with the plates on either side (similar to the OEM) looks much more secure than what SRG is using, although it's hard to tell exactly how it goes on from their single page instruction sheet with not-great photos.

The Torklift also appears to hit higher and more flush with the rear of the car which should help avoid scraping on sloping driveways and bashing your shin on it while walking around the car. Downside is more cutting of the actual bumper but it isn't really that noticeable.
 
I reached out to Stealth Hitch about 2 hours ago via their website and got an email back:

————————

We are in the final stages of development for this vehicle. I would expect the vehicle to be available for presale as early as next week. We should also start manufacturing within the next couple of weeks. I would expect shipments to start before the end of this month, hopefully sooner. I added you to the wait list so you will be notified when the hitch is available.

————————

Going to wait on the Torklift until seeing this one and price but excited to see users getting these installed! Can’t wait!
 
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