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Ioniq 5 rear hatch rattle (extremely annoying)

19K views 53 replies 28 participants last post by  KTcar  
#1 ·
After about 2k miles my rear hatch rattles over the slightest bumps. No its not the seatbealts. No its not junk under the floors. No its not the door panels. Yes I can visibly see the rear hatch moving when the car goes over bumps. This is absolutely BS for how much I paid for this car. Ive tried adjusting the adjustable bump stops, but that barely helps. Besides those bump stops are already loose with the rubber gasket falling off. This rear hatch engineering is trash. Hyundai dealers are acting like they dont hear it.. please comment if you have the same issue and if it was solved (if so how??)
 
#4 ·
I just noticed my hatch rattling today while navigating a parking lot. It is not the little bumpers. I opened the powered hatch door and wiggled it up and down and there is noise coming out of the left strut. I posted a video on Facebook group and someone replied and had the same issue on this forum and found/figured out a fix.

So verify and wiggle your door up and down and see if the strut squeaks, if so check out the thread: Day 1 - a bloody rattle
 
#6 ·
I just noticed my hatch rattling today while navigating a parking lot. It is not the little bumpers. I opened the powered hatch door and wiggled it up and down and there is noise coming out of the left strut. I posted a video on Facebook group and someone replied and had the same issue on this forum and found/figured out a fix.

So verify and wiggle your door up and down and see if the strut squeaks, if so check out the thread: Day 1 - a bloody rattle
Yes i noticed that too. Its a loose strut on the driverside for me. Im going to get it checked out at the dealer end of the month
 
#10 ·
I had the same problem from the left side. I installed 1 thick washer behind each screw and 99% of the noise is gone and with the radio on. You need a torx bit to unscrew the bolts. It was driving me crazy. I was to take to dealer next week but cancelling. Only other problem is charge door doesn't open manually unless I really can push it in.
 
#11 ·
Yeah the charge door issue doesn't bug me too much but the rattle and stress squeeks are not good. A decade from now i bet the hinges and ball mounts for the struts will brake off.. no door should move this much when driving. All that side to side shifting weight on the hinges and struts is not good for longevity.
 
#16 ·
I ended up wrapping the plastic bumper pieces using felt tape and that eliminated all the noise and rattling I was experiencing. Attached a photo.

When the lid is closed, I can see that things feel much "tighter" when the tailgate locks itself, similar to what happens when you extend those bumper stops way too far out. I wrote in another post that unscrewing the rubber bumpers did not help with my problem.

I'm glad that I've managed to make this go away because the rattle certainly made the ride feel quality feel really "cheap". Now it's quieter than a mouse.

Image
 
#34 ·
I ended up wrapping the plastic bumper pieces using felt tape and that eliminated all the noise and rattling I was experiencing. Attached a photo. When the lid is closed, I can see that things feel much "tighter" when the tailgate locks itself, similar to what happens when you extend those bumper stops way too far out. I wrote in another post that unscrewing the rubber bumpers did not help with my problem. I'm glad that I've managed to make this go away because the rattle certainly made the ride feel quality feel really "cheap". Now it's quieter than a mouse.
Image
Wow! This totally solved it! Thank you so much for sharing.
 
#18 ·
Glad I could be of help. I was leaning towards the washer remedy but I saw in the technical service bulletin (found over in the UK, I think) that you have to deal with threadlocker and potentially stripping the screw holes if you're not careful. At the same time it's not a pretty looking solution. I've also seen some posts where adding the washers didn't help as much as they had hoped.

I figure this is a good solution and you can just change out the fabric tape whenever it needs a re-do, and it doesn't look too awful since the tape is black.

I feel really certain that this will be less of a problem in the summer when it's hot out. The rattle only started becoming noticeable with the change in weather (from 80s F to 50s F).

I'll report back if this solution ends up being more temporary, but so far after a week of cold-weather driving, things have been super quiet going over bumps.
 
#20 ·
#21 ·
Exactly on temps. Same here in Massachusetts. The problem was born as temperatures dropped 30 degrees. I bet when summer returns it goes away, but either way the the tape works great, however I used a knit type glove I cut up, no felt tape, the screwed in mount keeps in place.. Other than flat spots on my tires, which were replaced under warranty at 5K, and a little tweaking on the push to open function on charge door, My I5 has been awesome. Happy motoring and please any updates appreciated. I would have paid $$$$ to rid the rattle, lol.
 
#36 ·
I have a n I 5 and the back has developed a rattle too. It sounds like Plastic on Plastic. I emptied my rear cargo area and it may have gotten worse. Hard to imagine. I did read on Redit that a number of other I 5 owners have the same issue. They tried felt pads on the adjustable lid bumpers and a piece of duct tape wrapped it around the latch receiver and they say it helped a lot. I'll let you know what I find. But this seems to be a regular issue with the I 5.
 
#44 ·
I had the hatch latch replaced as a warranty repair and the rattle totally vanished.
Hey Mike, has this fix held up since it was replaced ?


I took my SE in noticing right after I bought the car the rattle. They had it for a day-and-a-half and came back with: “it’s a body flex rattle” and can not be fixed. So frustrated that I have to live with this sound. Again, ridiculous amount of money I pd for this car and there is no fix.
I am inclined to believe this to be true as they claim that the refreshed 2025 has more welds. Well at least that was said when the N was announced. Not sure if the hatch components on the N are the same as the other models.
 
#50 ·
I had the issue and the dealer did the 2023 TSB, that didn't work, and they replaced the driver power strut. That didn't work. Then came the 2024 TSB, and they replaced the bumpers, etc...That didn't work. I left the car and they accepted the challenge. After taking off the hatch lower trim and loosening the latching mechanism it moved to the left...wow. That latch alignment has made a dramatic improvement. It was shifted/aligned too far to the right. Makes sense since they hatch latch would be assembled, then installed and maybe not readjusted to the lower at the time the hatch was installed. The other thing the tech did was reverse the lower u shaped bracket as the forward vertical part of the U (that's what the tech said) was slightly narrower than the rear. He tried to demonstrate with a caliper, but the caliper had issues.....
So if the 2 TSBs don't seem to do it, check the hatch latch alignment...
Not mentioned anywhere I looked in previous posts, etc....