I haven't seen much info on installing the Curt C98DR trailer hitch so I thought I'd post this.
The main reasons I purchased this model:
1. It mounts to the frame like the EcoHitch as opposed to bolting across the weaker bumper attach points like the Draw-Tite version in the U-haul video.
2. It can be installed WITHOUT removing the rear bumper.
3. You don't have to cut a notch in the bumper - only in the much cheaper filler panel under the bumper.
4. A great value IMHO ($267 on etrailer.com)
The unit itself is powder coated and beefy. The written instructions were decent but the photos were horrible. Once I started the process, however, it was easy to figure out what the photos were trying to illustrate. I didn't do a step by step photo sequence but here are some pics that might be helpful to anyone interested.
As recommended in the instructions I removed 6 bolts and dropped the rear pan for easier access.
Not mentioned in the instructions, but I also removed the small rear mudflaps and loosened the wheel well liner to bend it away from the area where mounting bolts would attach.
After that it was just a matter of mounting the plates to the frame (purple arrows), then the hitch to the plates. Keep all bolts and nuts really loose until you get them all started. After that, tighten and torque.
At this point the instructions say to cut a 3-3/4" center section out of the trim panel leaving two halves to remount on either side of the hitch. I decided to try a U-shaped notch instead. I also did a tighter width cut - about 3-1/4" wide. It gave a cleaner look and maybe preserved a bit more integrity in that trim piece.
I'm really happy with the results. If I ever remove the hitch a new trim piece is only $45!
(Sorry for the messy garage floor. It's been raining a lot in SoCal lately.)
The main reasons I purchased this model:
1. It mounts to the frame like the EcoHitch as opposed to bolting across the weaker bumper attach points like the Draw-Tite version in the U-haul video.
2. It can be installed WITHOUT removing the rear bumper.
3. You don't have to cut a notch in the bumper - only in the much cheaper filler panel under the bumper.
4. A great value IMHO ($267 on etrailer.com)
The unit itself is powder coated and beefy. The written instructions were decent but the photos were horrible. Once I started the process, however, it was easy to figure out what the photos were trying to illustrate. I didn't do a step by step photo sequence but here are some pics that might be helpful to anyone interested.
As recommended in the instructions I removed 6 bolts and dropped the rear pan for easier access.
Not mentioned in the instructions, but I also removed the small rear mudflaps and loosened the wheel well liner to bend it away from the area where mounting bolts would attach.
After that it was just a matter of mounting the plates to the frame (purple arrows), then the hitch to the plates. Keep all bolts and nuts really loose until you get them all started. After that, tighten and torque.
At this point the instructions say to cut a 3-3/4" center section out of the trim panel leaving two halves to remount on either side of the hitch. I decided to try a U-shaped notch instead. I also did a tighter width cut - about 3-1/4" wide. It gave a cleaner look and maybe preserved a bit more integrity in that trim piece.
I'm really happy with the results. If I ever remove the hitch a new trim piece is only $45!
(Sorry for the messy garage floor. It's been raining a lot in SoCal lately.)