Great post. Thank you.

 

That looks pretty tight - which I like. But it worries me that with my bike rack, it'd be "too close" to the rear bumper and either (a) not clear the rear bumper or (b) make it impossible to open the trunk.

 

I'd be happy to take some measurements tomorrow if you'd like. I got the hitch for pulling a trailer so, for me, not really concerned with bumper clearance.

 

Look like an easy install. Do you mind posting a pic standing behind the vehicle?

 

Is this what you'd like?

Otherwise I can go take a few more pics tomorrow.

 

from that angle it looks like it sticks out like the OEM (which I have)

 

I got curious so I went out and measured. The hitch receiver is 2-1/2" inset from the outermost portion of the bumper. Perhaps more helpful is the hitch pin hole center is 5" inset from the bumper. And just to confirm it is a 2" receiver.

 

@Vmo Thanks for those dimensions. I just scored a Rockymounts Backstage from the REI garage sale section for an excellent price; However, it looks like the dimension from the center of the hitch pin to the rack when stowed is 4.5", which is less than the 5" that you've quoted. So breaking this down for anyone who is looking to use this rack, a Kuat NV 2.0 might be the way to go. The distance from the center of the hitch pin to the Kuat rack when stowed is 6 5/8".

It's more expensive, but I hope the StealthHitch works!

 

Ooh, love that it doesn't require bumper removal

 

Thanks VMO - great breakdown! I'm getting ready to do the same job!

 

Great post! Thank you for sharing.

 

Thanks, nice job.

Question:
Step 4 of the Curt instructions says
"Raise the hitch (#1) into position between the side plates installed in step 2. Secure with 1/2"
carriage bolts (#5) installed from the center of the vehicle outward and serrated-flange nuts
(#7). Use fishwires as needed to install bolts."

What's with the fishwires? Not at all clear if you used them or where they woud be used or if they are really needed.

John

 

Thanks, nice job.

Question:
Step 4 of the Curt instructions says
"Raise the hitch (#1) into position between the side plates installed in step 2. Secure with 1/2"
carriage bolts (#5) installed from the center of the vehicle outward and serrated-flange nuts
(#7). Use fishwires as needed to install bolts."

What's with the fishwires? Not at all clear if you used them or where they woud be used or if they are really needed.

John

Hey, John. It's a tight area your working in and can be a challenge to get a few of those carriage bolts through the mounting holes. That's when the fish wire comes in handy. Thread the coiled end over the bolt then fish the wire up through the mounting plate hole. Grab the end and pull the bolt into position. I think I only needed them for one or two of the six bolts. Keeping the side plate bolts pretty loose 'til you have all the carriage bolts started helps a lot. I think using a couple fish wires FAR outweighs having to remove the bumper!

 

OK, thanks, sounds good.
John

 

I did this install yesterday on the Curt Hitch. VMO, thanks for your instructions, very helpful. Didn't need the fishing wire, left the brackets loose enough to push out so that there was room for the carriage bolts. The 2 upper ones on the right side are the toughest. I placed those 2 bolts in the tow hitch and put a piece of duct tape over them to hold them in position. Pushed the mounting bracket outward, raised the tow hitch into position and slid those 2 bolts into place. Overall a tight, but fairly easy install. IMO, this is a better looking setup than OEM while also being a standard 2" receiver, and stronger, at half the price.
Now I'm just trying to figure out ordering the OEM wiring harness. Seems to be two part numbers GIF67-AC100 and GIF67-AC101. Is the 101 an updated version?

 

...Now I'm just trying to figure out ordering the OEM wiring harness. Seems to be two part numbers GIF67-AC100 and GIF67-AC101. Is the 101 an updated version?

I had no luck trying to order either of those part numbers. The dealer said Hyundai put a "stop sale" on the OEM harness while it's being redesigned, so they expected a few month wait time.

I ended up installing the Tekonsha T-one harness, model TK75VR.

 

Thanks so much for this post! You inspired me to pick up the Curt from eTrailer and give this DIY a try. I’ve had my eye on the Stealth hitch, but at $700 including shipping and a semi-gnarly install, I found myself… reconsidering.
Any noticeable change in ground clearance or aerodynamics / efficiency?

 

Any noticeable change in ground clearance or aerodynamics / efficiency?

None whatsoever.

 

This

I haven't seen much info on installing the Curt C98DR trailer hitch so I thought I'd post this.

The main reasons I purchased this model:
1. It mounts to the frame like the EcoHitch as opposed to bolting across the weaker bumper attach points like the Draw-Tite version in the U-haul video.
2. It can be installed WITHOUT removing the rear bumper.
3. You don't have to cut a notch in the bumper - only in the much cheaper filler panel under the bumper.
4. A great value IMHO ($267 on etrailer.com)

The unit itself is powder coated and beefy. The written instructions were decent but the photos were horrible. Once I started the process, however, it was easy to figure out what the photos were trying to illustrate. I didn't do a step by step photo sequence but here are some pics that might be helpful to anyone interested.

As recommended in the instructions I removed 6 bolts and dropped the rear pan for easier access.

View attachment 47528

Not mentioned in the instructions, but I also removed the small rear mudflaps and loosened the wheel well liner to bend it away from the area where mounting bolts would attach.

View attachment 47529

After that it was just a matter of mounting the plates to the frame (purple arrows), then the hitch to the plates. Keep all bolts and nuts really loose until you get them all started. After that, tighten and torque.

View attachment 47530


View attachment 47531

At this point the instructions say to cut a 3-3/4" center section out of the trim panel leaving two halves to remount on either side of the hitch. I decided to try a U-shaped notch instead. I also did a tighter width cut - about 3-1/4" wide. It gave a cleaner look and maybe preserved a bit more integrity in that trim piece.

View attachment 47532

View attachment 47533

I'm really happy with the results. If I ever remove the hitch a new trim piece is only $45!

(Sorry for the messy garage floor. It's been raining a lot in SoCal lately.)
[/QUO

Thanks for the pictures and detail on this hitch. I think I may place an order. I have always installed my own trailer hitches on my cars and SUVs just to attach my bike rack. I was looking at the Stealth hitch, but reluctant to pull the trigger because I didn't feel comfortable removing the bumper, etc. myself for the install and didn't want to pay $1,000 at a local shop. It looks like this could be my answer. Like curiousmike, I am a little concerned about clearance for the rack.

Anybody else installed this hitch and using for your Thule bike rack?

 

Just placed my order. Hopefully the install will go smoothly when I install it in the Spring. Thanks.

 

I went ahead and did the install, thanks again for the inspiration! Documented the entire learning process on video and pushed up to YouTube for anybody else considering the task:

The whole job me about 3 hours, start to finish… though I could probably cut that time in half now that I know what I’m looking for. Not super difficult, but actually getting the bolts in took the longest amount of time (working by myself). Note that is essential to keep everything super loose until the very end - there was one bolt on the passenger side that was nearly headed for the belt sander until I re-read that suggestion and went around loosening everything to the last thread. Installation clearances here are measured in the microns…

I cut the U-shape too following your comments above and the finished product looks super stealth and really nice. Super happy with this buy! Totally DIY-able, but make sure to plan an afternoon if you are a first-timer like me.

 

Great video and informative.
I saw your video and I noticed one thing regarding your torque wrench, I believe your torque wrench is rated at inch/pound and not foot/pound. If that is the case you may of under torqued your bolts. If you had it at 90 inch/lb that is only 7.5 foot/lb, I believe it should be 85 and 90 foot/lb torque specifications? You will need a larger torque wrench to handle that.

 

Thanks for making this video. I have my Curt hitch that I ordered from e-Trailer (found a coupon code for 5% off). As soon as the weather warms up a bit, I'll be doing the install.

 

I haven't seen much info on installing the Curt C98DR trailer hitch so I thought I'd post this.

The main reasons I purchased this model:
1. It mounts to the frame like the EcoHitch as opposed to bolting across the weaker bumper attach points like the Draw-Tite version in the U-haul video.
2. It can be installed WITHOUT removing the rear bumper.
3. You don't have to cut a notch in the bumper - only in the much cheaper filler panel under the bumper.
4. A great value IMHO ($267 on etrailer.com)

The unit itself is powder coated and beefy. The written instructions were decent but the photos were horrible. Once I started the process, however, it was easy to figure out what the photos were trying to illustrate. I didn't do a step by step photo sequence but here are some pics that might be helpful to anyone interested.

As recommended in the instructions I removed 6 bolts and dropped the rear pan for easier access.

View attachment 47528

Not mentioned in the instructions, but I also removed the small rear mudflaps and loosened the wheel well liner to bend it away from the area where mounting bolts would attach.

View attachment 47529

After that it was just a matter of mounting the plates to the frame (purple arrows), then the hitch to the plates. Keep all bolts and nuts really loose until you get them all started. After that, tighten and torque.

View attachment 47530


View attachment 47531

At this point the instructions say to cut a 3-3/4" center section out of the trim panel leaving two halves to remount on either side of the hitch. I decided to try a U-shaped notch instead. I also did a tighter width cut - about 3-1/4" wide. It gave a cleaner look and maybe preserved a bit more integrity in that trim piece.

View attachment 47532

View attachment 47533

I'm really happy with the results. If I ever remove the hitch a new trim piece is only $45!

(Sorry for the messy garage floor. It's been raining a lot in SoCal lately.)

Hi! I am really interested by this hitch for all the reasons you mentioned but I find it very low to the ground. Is it possible to give me the measurement between the ground and the bottom of the receiver? Thanks!!

 

This post suggests it's 7.5" - but that measuring tape seems suspect

Ioniq 5 Receiver Hitch for bike rack

I hope to own an Ioniq 5 in the next few months. But I want to make sure I can attach my Rocky Mounts bike rack on the car. It uses a 2” receiver to mount to the back. Does anyone know if there is a receiver type hitch for this car?

www.ioniqforum.com

 

Hi, new to the forum here as we took delivery on our I5 limited only on Friday. I've placed an order for the wiring harness at the local dealer (we'll see if they actually get it) but have been wavering on which hitch to get. This looks like the right choice. Is there a convenient place to mount the 4-pin connector near the receiver?

 

FWIW I just picked up my wiring harness (H-GIF67-AC101) so I think any stop sale on that has been lifted.

 

Let us know how the install goes!

 

Not sure what he used, but I used a kids step stool to hold it up. I’d recommend connecting the drivers side 1st. That side gave me the most grief.

 

Thanks for the tip; I will definitely do the driver's side first. I'll see what I have around the house to provide a boost. Any other tips and ideas would be appreciated.

 

(I assume you do not have a floor jack around) Do you have another vehicle with a stock scissor jack? Two jacks, lift both sides. 2x4 with a jack in the middle

 

I just put one side on a box, held up the other side and fed the bolts.

 

Just finished my Curt install and it looks great. Tight quarters and very tough to get everything in position and tightened up, but well worth it. Thanks for the pictures, the video of the install and the tips.

 

One other comment about the Curt trailer hitch; it is only a little over 7" from the ground at the lowest point. Since I will only use the hitch for bikes, I think I'll be fine. For those of you looking at the Curt to pull a small trailer, you may want to consider this.

 

One other comment about the Curt trailer hitch; it is only a little over 7" from the ground at the lowest point. Since I will only use the hitch for bikes, I think I'll be fine. For those of you looking at the Curt to pull a small trailer, you may want to consider this.
[/QUOTE

Perhaps Vmo could provide more insight since he is using the hitch for a trailer.