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Some food and water for the horse.

IMO just use proper 12v battery that works with the vehicle during the warranty period. If the vehicle has 12V or other trouble during the warranty period have the dealership fix/correct under warranty. If the dealer/manufacturer doesn't correct in reasonable time or trouble continues report to Government Safety group. 12v system is part of vehicle safety control devices.

Piggy back BM2 device is just complicating the design of car and is additional circuit device that could fail and cause electrical trouble.
 
... Yet you know better. I only mention this in case you influence others to also ignore the advice from someone who actually does know what he is talking about.
Yeah, as I said I spend a week testing that opinion and found zero evidence that the BM2 affects anything. And seven years with the BM2 installed across the battery without a single problem speaks volumes. I'll stick to the science, you can keep your dogma.
 
Yeah, as I said I spend a week testing that opinion and found zero evidence that the BM2 affects anything. And seven years with the BM2 installed across the battery without a single problem speaks volumes. I'll stick to the science, you can keep your dogma.
Lol @ dogma. I happen to mention that a guy who has a clue about this, compared to people who quote anecdotes, just might be a better source of advice. And you leap straight to insults. Good job fella.
 
Discussion starter · #65 ·
Such risk aversion is bordering on paranoia. Based on zero evidence.
Some food and water for the horse.

IMO just use proper 12v battery that works with the vehicle during the warranty period. If the vehicle has 12V or other trouble during the warranty period have the dealership fix/correct under warranty. If the dealer/manufacturer doesn't correct in reasonable time or trouble continues report to Government Safety group. 12v system is part of vehicle safety control devices.

Piggy back BM2 device is just complicating the design of car and is additional circuit device that could fail and cause electrical trouble.
Agree 👍.
 
Discussion starter · #66 ·
Some food and water for the horse.

IMO just use proper 12v battery that works with the vehicle during the warranty period. If the vehicle has 12V or other trouble during the warranty period have the dealership fix/correct under warranty. If the dealer/manufacturer doesn't correct in reasonable time or trouble continues report to Government Safety group. 12v system is part of vehicle safety control devices.

Piggy back BM2 device is just complicating the design of car and is additional circuit device that could fail and cause electrical trouble.
Yeah, I don’t wanna feed the neurosis of feelin that I have to check my battery every day. I’ll use it to spot check the battery on one of my other vehicles, and recheck as needed. It only takes about five minutes to install.
 
I have always gone along with the frustration and irritation felt by EV owners over 12V issues. I have driven EVs for 9 years now, and back then it was a serious problem. I had two incidents with an early Leaf 24. Over the years, various tweaks and software upgrades have reduced the problems. But the fundamental problem has always been that, gradually, some driving patterns allowed the 12V battery to become at a lower and lower voltage until eventually it failed as the voltage became so low that it wouldn't even throw the relay to engage the traction battery on start-up. Critically, this boiling frogs situation went on unnoticed by the driver.

What I didn't know at the time was that such abuse of a standard lead/acid battery by frequent and prolonged low voltage periods would inevitably lead to the death of the battery. And as it went unnoticed for months at a time that was often the result.

At that time everybody drove ICE vehicles and this was never a 'thing' because we were always made aware of a failing 12V battery because it began to be sluggish when turning a cold ICE engine over. We then immediately took action to charge it and/or change it for a new battery if it was a few years old. However, in an EV no such early warning was given. Just a final incident and a dead battery.

At that time, I recognised that early warning would be key to avoid such incidents and I began to pay closer attention to the condition of the battery. I started to clip on a smart mains battery charger as part of the monthly regime of tyre kicking and screenwash bottle filling. That kept away any possibility of a gradual voltage drop, and since the early Leaf issues, I have had no 12v problems. I attribute this to my closer attention to this normally forgotten piece of equipment.

Later, I fitted a BM2 to make such monitoring easier. And on one occasion, this has indeed flagged up a low voltage and less than 50% SOC in the 12v battery. At that time the car was just over 3 years old and I took the opportunity to swap the OEM L/A battery for a modern AGM battery, as common advice was that they could tolerate such low voltages better.

The point of this narrative is to say that I fully understand the people who prefer to stand on their dignity and proclaim that such attention should not be necessary. And that they would instead insist on their 'rights' in warranty terms and then official bodies if that failed to deal with their car being bricked. They are correct, of course. Such is common in modern thinking.

But personally, I am of an age where we didn't always seek to blame others for any problem in our lives. I prefer to take some level of personal responsibility to avoid such problems by being proactive, as long as the means just involve a bit of vigilance.

So, I check the BM2 regularly. Takes a few seconds to fire up the Bluetooth app. And I attach a smart charger overnight once a month as they can check for any developing problems and can repair and then float charge to balance all cells if needed. Such minimal attention is part of my overall philosophy of preventative maintenance being preferable to being locked out at 2am one rainy morning in an airport car park.

Perhaps that's just me. And I should relax and be prepared to do battle with third parties instead. But my strategy has worked over the 12V saga for the last 9 years, and I will probably continue with such an old-fashioned approach.
 
Some food and water for the horse.

IMO just use proper 12v battery that works with the vehicle during the warranty period. If the vehicle has 12V or other trouble during the warranty period have the dealership fix/correct under warranty. If the dealer/manufacturer doesn't correct in reasonable time or trouble continues report to Government Safety group. 12v system is part of vehicle safety control devices.

Piggy back BM2 device is just complicating the design of car and is additional circuit device that could fail and cause electrical trouble.
I'd rather not need to visit the dealer service bays.
 
Some food and water for the horse.

IMO just use proper 12v battery that works with the vehicle during the warranty period. If the vehicle has 12V or other trouble during the warranty period have the dealership fix/correct under warranty. If the dealer/manufacturer doesn't correct in reasonable time or trouble continues report to Government Safety group. 12v system is part of vehicle safety control devices.

Piggy back BM2 device is just complicating the design of car and is additional circuit device that could fail and cause electrical trouble.
That's just it, it really isn't complicated, or shouldn't be. It's a 5 minute install and 20 bucks. Fuse it, don't fuse it, connect it to the negative terminal of the battery, don't connect it to the negative terminal, look at it daily, look at it once a month. It's all good.

I look at mine once a month. If the voltage is generally between 12.5 and 13 volts, and charged maybe once a day while the car is idle it's good to go IMHO.
 
@Hitstirrer, it's not just EV owners. Many hybrid owners have an awful time. The hybrids I'm familiar with do nothing to maintain the 12v battery when not running. So if drivers make little short drives and don't give the car time to fully recharge what got used while the car was "off," they then wonder what's the matter when they find that their 12v is dead.

EVs at least make some effort to fix that, but it's obviously not fully refined. So we're in a situation we can't fix and as the saying goes, if you can't fix it, it's not a problem; it's a fact of life. We can't fix the fact that our cars are not yet perfect at maintaining the 12v, but we can deal with that fact of life in a constructive way. Or we can whine about it and keep replacing dead batteries.
 
We can't fix the fact that our cars are not yet perfect at maintaining the 12v, but we can deal with that fact of life in a constructive way. Or we can whine about it and keep replacing dead batteries.
I vote for whining (or is that wine-ing…I forget now). But if you can stand the annoyance, having Hyundai’s dealerships constantly replace 12v batteries under warranty is perhaps the ONLY reason we’d ever get a better resolution to the failure issue. For any sort of R&D-then-fix priority to be given to this, it has to hurt their costs. The greater the hurt, the higher the priority. At present, I’d guess the hurt is lost in the round-off somewhere.
 
At present, I’d guess the hurt is lost in the round-off somewhere.
Correct. The bean counters would also be involved. And they will have decided that replacing a few thousand 12V Lead/Acid batteries at a cost, to them, of $50 each, is cheaper than fitting 50,000 AGM batteries to all new production cars, which would cost them an extra $100 each.
 
Correct. The bean counters would also be involved. And they will have decided that replacing a few thousand 12V Lead/Acid batteries at a cost, to them, of $50 each, is cheaper than fitting 50,000 AGM batteries to all new production cars, which would cost them an extra $100 each.
Yup, and fitting AGMs is the sledgehammer approach to swatting a fly; solves the dead 12v symptom (we think) but doesn’t identify the cause and real problem resolution. That would take very expensive investigation, redesign, likely a retrofit recall, etc., etc.

So not happening.
 
This is a freak out story but I’ve had three batteries in my 2023 I5 Limited. The original plus 2 that came by factory replacement. All related to a flaw in the system that’s been talked about incessantly here on the forum. After all the recalls, a vigilant employee at the dealership found the defective part that wasn’t in the recall network. I just checked it before I wrote this and it’s being charged by the big battery at 15 V. Never had a problem since the last fix 6 months ago. But that was after lots of trips to the dealership. Good luck. By the way, they told me that anything other than a garden variety battery might avoid the warranty. Probably BS, but I’d check with Hyundai directly.
My May 22, 2025 repost of a communication with Hyundai about replacement batteries and voiding the warranty:

"Description :
If I replace the manufacturer-supplied Sealed Lead Acid 12V battery with a suitable and proper 12V Lithium-Iron battery is my warranty in any way voided, limited or restricted by so doing? The ongoing ICCU and fuse failures is why I am asking."

This is the response from Hyundai:

"Dear X X

Thank you for contacting Hyundai Customer Care. We apologize for the delayed response.

Based upon the information you provided, the service and parts department at your local Hyundai dealership would be in the best position to help with the warranty for your 12-Volt battery replacement.

To locate your nearest dealer, please visit Hyundai Dealer Locater | Dealerships Near Me | Hyundai USA to schedule your appointment.

Please feel free to contact us if you have any additional questions by calling our toll-free number and referencing case number XXXXXXXX.

Thank you for being a valued member of our Hyundai Family.

Respectfully,

Hyundai Customer Care
Hyundai Customer Care: (800) 633-5151
Hyundai Bluelink Customer Care: (855) 225-8354
Monday-Friday 6:00 AM-5:00 PM Pacific Time
Saturday 6:30 AM-3:00 PM Pacific Time
Sunday Closed
For open campaign information, please visit: www.hyundaiusa.com/campaignhome
 
If I replace the manufacturer-supplied Sealed Lead Acid 12V battery with a suitable and proper 12V Lithium-Iron battery is my warranty in any way voided, limited or restricted by so doing? The ongoing ICCU and fuse failures is why I am asking."

This is the response from Hyundai: Based upon the information you provided, the service and parts department at your local Hyundai dealership would be in the best position to help with the warranty for your 12-Volt battery replacement.
They missed the point of your email though. They replied about any warranty on the 12V battery rather than any warranty on the car itself.
 
They missed the point of your email though. They replied about any warranty on the 12V battery rather than any warranty on the car itself.
They didn't "miss" the point. They avoided it (are you surprised?) by feigning some degree of innocent ignorance and choosing to 'reply' with whatever the legal dep't allows them to say when anybody mentions anything regarding batteries...any batteries...and warrantie$. It is CYA, poorly disguised as customer care.
The ICCU and fuse failures were specific points that went well beyond only the 12v battery issues...ignored by customer care, and quite purposely, I'd say.
 
I initially connected my BM2 directly but noticed that the battery did not seem to be charging as expected (for a lead acid battery) as it should. I had low voltage before charging. Then I saw the post about connecting to the body and did that. Since that time, all has seemed to function normally and charging of the 12v happens often (possibly more often than a AGM battery might
So, in replying to my own post, I bought a top of the line (CR) AGM battery today and intstalled it with the BM2 negative terminal on a neutral ground. My perfectly functioning flooded battery was charging (with the yellow light) often. I decided that since I will leave this outside in a cold climate for 4 months, I didn't want to over tax the 10 attempt limit on charging the 12v by the iccu and this was the way to do it. I still haven't decided whether to plug the unit in all winter or to install a solar trickle charger
 
The hybrids I'm familiar with do nothing to maintain the 12v battery when not running
My 2023 Kia Sportage hybrid did not have a traditional 12v battery. It separated out a section of the hybrid battery for 12v use. If that section were to discharge, a button on the dash was available to still start the car. Seemed pretty well worked out since it still used an alternator for charging.
 
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