Charge XX is what the pack can handle while it's recharging.
Discharge XX is the most power it can send to the motor.
These numbers change depending on battery level, temperature, age, and how many times it's been charged.
Ask the tech to come out with the factory scanner and check all by scrolling all the way down
You'll see the battery health and more.

 

Are these values okay for a 3 year Hyundai ioniq hybrid done 20k miles or 34k km

 

Also, what is the reference to 1.38KwH battery

 

1.3 kWh is the energy capacity of the Traction Battery. This Traction Battery is made up of 64 Lithium (I assume) cells in series, and these operate between 3.6V & 4.1V, depending on how full. So 64x4 = 256 so you have a 250V DC Traction Motor/Generator to assist. In EV terms you'ld expect to get about 4 miles/kWh, so if this battery is full, you might see about 5 miles pure electric range. But ALL your energy is coming from petrol, so this battery is really meant to be an energy-recovery system. So when you brake at taffic lights, it gets charged up, and when you drive away it discharges, reducing how much petrol you use to accelerate again. On average, it's perhaps likely this battery will sit at about 50% full, so it's unlikely you can do a 5 mile trip w/o any petrol, unless you've just descended a loooong hill and managed to fill it up 100% on the descent.

The power of the Electric Motor is 42 kW, that's about 56 HP, but your petrol engine is a lot more than this. So to avoid using petrol, you must accelerate very gently!

On a long motorway trip at steady speed it's doing absolutely nothing to help. The fact that all cells are the same voltage means it looks in good condition. As the battery degrades, the cells should still stay at the same voltages as each other, so you can't tell how worn out the Battery Pack is, just from the voltages.

 

The beauty of this engine/battery combo is that you have absolutely no control over what it does and when, so just get in it and drive. I do and couldn't care less about battery health, all I can say is that my UK spec 2020 1st Edition HEV now has 116,000 UK miles showing and is as good today as it was on day one.

You can't force it to stay in EV mode, it will decide as and when to run the ICE, which makes for a much simpler, less stressful experience because I know I can't influence it and yes, the car's aim is to try and keep the pack in the middle 1/3 of the gauge.

 

Having owned two plug in hybrids and one full Ev, this is part of the joy of now owning an Ioniq Hev. No need to be thinking about the state of charge. From what I see, the battery does indeed try keep itself in the middle third. My car has just over 100k miles on it and drives like a car with 10k miles.

 

All 64 batteries reporting identical voltages at 3.64V?

I'm skeptical.

Actually, let me just simply call shenanigans on that.

(That's just a nicer way of saying BULLSH*T!)

 

Could it be that the variation was in the third decimal place?

 

Seeing them all the same isn't uncommon. I've seen that in my Ioniq 38, with 88 cells. While the BMS can probably see the third decimal place, this doesn't seem to be displayed by e.g. Car Scanner app. It's reckoned a good battery should have all the cells within 0.02V of each other, 0.04V is passable, more than that suggests something's going awry & needs further checking. So I think these apps probably round to the nearest 0.02V intervals.

I haven't seen 0.01V intervals from Car Scanner on my Ioniq, or from another app I've used, so I suspect the BMS is rounding-off whatever it's prepared to tell the outside world. The punters are less likely to complain to the dealers that "Something's wrong, the voltages are different!" if they can round them to all look the same. Differences of a few millivolts will be there, but who cares?

 

The 0.02V resolution of the OBD reports is because there are 8 bits (one byte) allotted to each cell in the report. 8 bits provides just 256 discrete values, meaning that at an 0.001V resolution you could only report from 0 to 0.255V -- not enough for a lithium ion cell. 0.01V would get you closer with a 0 to 2.55V range, but still not enough. 0.02V works just fine though with a range of 0 to 5.10V, more than enough for the capabilities of a cell. Now what the BMS uses internally is anybody's guess, but that's what it can tell us via OBD with the data format that Hyundai (perhaps the entire industry?) chose to use.

 

I have 330.000km with my 2017 Hybrid, and there are still no signs of any battery degradation, nor any signs of abnormal behaviour. The system keeps the battery between ≈ 40% and 70% at all times and does it fully independently. The only way to charge the battery to almost full is to keep Sport Mode on for excessive lengths of time, and the car will discharge it immediately when it can. There seems to be no way an Ioniq Hybrid could lose its batteries in normal use, as the cycles are short & soft and the power bus well programmed. If you test drive an Ioniq and it behaves normally, I'd be happy.

I'd concentrate more in the engine and transmission; check how often they have been serviced and where (yearly, as the mileage is so low). They are very reliable, too, if the fluids etc. have been serviced regularly. I'm still waiting for the first serious'ish fault in my 2017 Ioniq; it's a clockwork.

(Edit: of course, if the mileage is very low, there would be the possibility of a fully discharged battery, if the car has not been used for a long time. That might create problems, the manual recommends starting the system every 3 or 4 months or so. If the car has a separate 12V battery, the high-voltage battery is fully disconnected when off, so it wont discharge other than internally. The 12V battery would surely be dead unless recharged often. If it has an integrated 12V section in the HV battery, that might cause full discharge when the car is stored away.)

 

In this case, how do we deal with scenarios where we may have to travel overseas for a couple of months or so ? Any tips?

 

Maz, I love reading reports like yours. I am planning to keep mine for the next 4 years at least and to north of 300,000kms.

 

Hey guys, I have a few more queries, which I hope you all can answer.
I went through the Ioniq's manual when I test drove the vehicle and could not figure out immediately what drive modes exist in Hyundai Ioniq 2021 hybrid entry model.
The car starts in Eco mode and I understand I can activate sport mode by moving the gearshift to left.
I have a couple questions in this regard.
Is there any "Normal" mode which gives a bit more faster acceleration than sports mode? If so how to select this mode?
Also people in my family would not be very comfortable using the paddle shifters, so in sports mode can the car be driven in automatic transmission or only thru a Paddle shift?

 

There is no 'Normal' mode. Just eco and sport. I rarely come out of eco mode.
You don't have to touch the paddle shifters in sports mode or eco mode. They are only used if you want to override the DCT selection e.g drop to a lower gear than was selected.

 

Smart trickle charger if you have a lead acid battery. HEV with lithium 12 volt battery? There will not be any discharge of the HV battery while away as it is completely disconnected via a relay. PHEV or BEV with a lead acid battery? Disconnect the 12 volt battery from your car, and likewise your traction battery will not discharge. Ideally park it with a 50% traction battery charge.

 

Yes, it's an automatic transmission by default, there's little adavantage overriding it with the paddles in sport mode. The DCT transmission is faster doing its thing automatically than by paddle commands. I use sport mode often in heavy traffic, the car is very agile and handy in sport mode, and economic in eco mode. The paddles are useful when going downhill in eco mode if you can't use cruise control for the same effect.