[150psito48v]

I too had the dreaded rattle but I think I have stopped it ! The problem is not the adjustable boot stops but the two bits of hard plastic to the sides which locate the boot in the closed position. I have stuck a piece of Velcro on top ( the felt bit not the loops) and now all is very much quieter. The pics show what I did, hope this helps.

 

[Orarian]

Wow. Rattle gone (at least for now). Three steps worked for me:

1. Thanks @150psito48v for the velcro solution on the side stops. That's been the most important idea and is better than lubrication.
2. Lubed the ball joints at both ends of both power struts.
3. Used the screw adjustable stops on the bottom of the tailgate but just a little. The trim that they push against seems to flex, so screwing them past the point of contact probably doesn't do much except deform the plastic. And it makes the tailgate latch really clunk on unlock.

Trip to Sydney today in what I hope will be the sound of tyre and wind noise only.

 

[dthrizzle]

And this is an image of one of the adjustable stops - that was not part of the TSB, but it may help to adjust them: View attachment 43877 (Cropped from Source)

This solved it for me. One of these was screwed all the way in. I loosened it, and the rattle is now 100% gone.

 

[dthrizzle]

And this is an image of one of the adjustable stops - that was not part of the TSB, but it may help to adjust them:
View attachment 43877
(Cropped from Source)

This was what was causing the rattle for me. I loosened one of them that was screwed all the way in, and the rattle is now 100% gone.

 

[TobyI5]

I had the same rattle problem and posted about it. The suggested solution which worked for me was to simply put some duct tape on the rear part of the lift gate loop (where the life gate latch hooks onto.). There's a photo in the following post.

Rattling noise from cargo area

I have a rattling/chunking noise from the rear cargo area any time I go over bumps, even small ones. I've removed everything from the charger storage compartment and I still get the noise. Any thoughts? Thanks in advance!

www.ioniqforum.com

 

[oicu812b4idid]

I just had mine returned from the dealer indicating Hyundai tech support said to replace the tailgate latch. Of course it is on backorder with a likely long wait. After seeing the info here, Sure seems like that won't fix it. I'll be sharing this forum with the dealer to get with tech support and find out what the proper solution is as it is clearly a common issue and others have found various solutions. Thanks for sharing.

 

[Hamstah]

I just had mine returned from the dealer indicating Hyundai tech support said to replace the tailgate latch. Of course it is on backorder with a likely long wait. After seeing the info here, Sure seems like that won't fix it. I'll be sharing this forum with the dealer to get with tech support and find out what the proper solution is as it is clearly a common issue and others have found various solutions. Thanks for sharing.

+1. I reported to Service Advisor about the slight rattle at the tailgate. Their solution was to order a new latch assembly; which will be here between now and January. Velco, BRILLIANT!

 

[Hamstah]

+1. I reported to Service Advisor about the slight rattle at the tailgate. Their solution was to order a new latch assembly; which will be here between now and January. Velco, BRILLIANT!

The dealership had my I5 for 15 days to fix the 2 issues I reported (A/C not cooling and Hatch rattle). Firstly, they replaced the refrigerant because it was low 200 grams. They told me to pick up the car because it was now blowing cool air at 60 degree (F) air...but it wasn't according to my spydy senses. I asked for the tech that did the work to bring his magic thermometer and show me that it was blowing 60. His laser thermometer said 74 when he tested it for me. I told them to keep it until it was fixed. The issue turned out to be a faulty 3-way valve of some sort...BUT NOW THE A/C WORKS. The rear hatch still rattled after replacing the latch assembly, but I needed my car because my boss was giving me grief for working at home so much. When I got the Ioniq 5 back home I used the "Washer" fix. Four (4) washers, one for each screw holding the rubber thingy on either side of the trunk opening. World order has been restored and the honeymoon phase with my Ioniq 5 resumes.

 

[drmonbowen]

 

[Orarian]

I think my rattle is now history (but I'll wait until winter to be sure to be sure). Have adjusted the screw out stops on the bottom of the tailgate but that didn't work for long and sounds like it stresses the latching motor. Velcro on the side stops came off as did small strips of rubber weather seal. Lubricating the power lift shocks helps.

But I think that the best and long term solution is the 1 mm washers under the tailgate side bumper/stops. Just like @drmonbowen shows above.

Haven't heard a peep from the back since I added the washers.
Fingers crossed it never returns.

 

[Graybags]

I had this issue and reported it to my dealer in the UK.
…
However, my dealer found a TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) from Hyundai saying that the issue is with the "rectangular" stops visible on the tailgate sides - I think it was the lower ones that were adjusted. The TSB says to replace with thicker washers, which I assume increases the distance that the mounts protrude into the car to make the tailgate more secure. This worked for me.
…
These stops will be standard across the range, but later produced models probably have been changed given that the TSB involves thicker washers.

Do you have the TSB No or reference I can quote to my dealer? Going in tomorrow for first service. Many thanks, Graham.

 

[ajitnair]

This rattle started in ours about 1 to 1.5 months in. I set up an appt to have them try this, but the first apt I could get was 1.5 months out.

So today, just did this myself-- worked like a charm. Sorry I can't report the actual size of the washers, I just matched from washers I had on hand. They were normal thickness, though (added one washer per screw, lower stops only)

Mind sharing a picture of your solution? Might have to do the same for my I5

 

[jjioniq5]

Do you have the TSB No or reference I can quote to my dealer? Going in tomorrow for first service. Many thanks, Graham.

Unfortunately, I do not have the TSB number, but they should be able to find it on their system. It is a known issue.

If they cannot find it, my dealer is Chelmsford Hyundai and they might be able to advise your dealer?

Wishing you a rattle free Christmas!

 

[ajitnair]

Mind sharing a picture of your solution? Might have to do the same for my I5

Oh never mid - I see the TSB reference in the post above.

 

[150psito48v]

Unfortunately, I do not have the TSB number, but they should be able to find it on their system. It is a known issue.

If they cannot find it, my dealer is Chelmsford Hyundai and they might be able to advise your dealer?

Wishing you a rattle free Christmas!

I have put the washers on and have not quite cured the problem. My earlier post shows my first solution of using a bit of velcro which completely cured the rattle but I always knew that it was only temporary.

The state now is I have removed the velcro and just have the washers. For information I have used M8 x 25mm stainless steel ones. Make sure you use a threadlock on the bolts as you cannot tighten them too much or you will split the plastic.
I think the basic problem is that both the block on the raising boot lid and the fixed block on the car are both hard plastic so when together will always have a tendency to rattle unless very tight or nicely interlocking which it doesn't do.
I intend to try a small coating of something soft and durable like a silicone and see if this is a better longterm solution so will report back.

 

[Bowman]

Hello all, I have been following this post for many months now and have the following observations that may assist. Firstly my i5 is now 14 months old and has been great to own, the only issue I've had worthy of mention is the tailgate rattle. I live in Queensland Australia and have returned the car twice to Hyundai Marrochydore for them to rectify the rattle, to be fair they tried the logical things on the first visit like adjusting the stops and lubrication. When this failed they asked me to give them the car for a couple of days and provided me with a courtesy car.

By now I had picked up that some dealers in the UK had a TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) from Hyundai saying that the issue is with the "rectangular" stops. While these stops will be standard across the range, later produced models have been changed given that the TSB involves thicker washers.

What was interesting was that it appeared not all UK or Canadian dealerships seemed to have this TSB. I referenced this Ioniq forum discussion thread to my service centre but don't believe they looked at it at all. The car was returned two days later with the advice "we were unable to replicate the noise and that the sounds I hear are within the normal range for an EV which by its nature is very quiet. That wasn't as helpful as I had hoped but testing the vehicle on the perfect road around the dealership could not elicit the sounds I constantly get on my A and B-class roads.

So let's be clear this is a design fault; its fix is easy in most cases, but some strange silo-like communication within the Hyundai is preventing all dealers from being given the same information (TSB)

I gave up and fitted 1mm thick brass washers as described in Hyundai UK TSB, and it worked !!!! No more noise.

The Ioniq 5 is a new vehicle, and one expects some design faults. But I ask Hyundai to improve its worldwide dealership communication.

If you are about to take your car to the dealer expect them to tell you no TSA has been issued, show them the screenshots from one dealership Hyundai UK and ask them if they think only cars sold from that dealership have that design fault!

See below the earlier post by drmonbowen which I assume is from a Hyundai service centre. I recommend you print this page and take it to your service agent

I hope this helps

T

 

[AJ16]

I’ve seen different thickness and washer sizes listed. Any idea on what’s in the TSB?

 

[Bowman]

Hello the photos posted from the TSA dealership paperwork suggest 1mm thick washers, these can be a little more difficult to source but I used them and it worked brilliantly. Cheers Chris

 

[obijonc]

I have put the washers on and have not quite cured the problem. My earlier post shows my first solution of using a bit of velcro which completely cured the rattle but I always knew that it was only temporary. View attachment 47191
The state now is I have removed the velcro and just have the washers. For information I have used M8 x 25mm stainless steel ones. Make sure you use a threadlock on the bolts as you cannot tighten them too much or you will split the plastic.
I think the basic problem is that both the block on the raising boot lid and the fixed block on the car are both hard plastic so when together will always have a tendency to rattle unless very tight or nicely interlocking which it doesn't do.
I intend to try a small coating of something soft and durable like a silicone and see if this is a better longterm solution so will report back.

Where did you source those specific washers?

 

[Bowman]

Hello, I used some brass or copper washers M8 with a thickness of only 1mm. I took a pair of callipers with me and checked the thickness as I think too thick only exacerbates the issue and as the Hyundai states 1mm is the correct thickness I went for that, my local hardware store sold stainless steel washers which are usually 1.6 to 1.8 thick. In the end, I went to an Auto accessories outlet and was able to find a suitable product. I understand that shim washers as they are called here in Australia are more diverse in their thicknesses.

Also, I adjusted the screw stops to 1.25 turns which seems to have enabled the side stops to come together correctly. I used some white paint to mark the stops as seen in some of the posts in this forum.

Hope this helps