[Blucid]

If this is a problem in the US, a good source for industrial quality fasteners is McMASTER-CARR. They sell small quantities for DIY, of course best to buy a few things you need with shipping cost.

 

[Blucid]

There are really interesting new comments / solutions at this forum thread: Ioniq 5 rattles. I wonder if any these cushioning washers would work well? Abrasion-Resistant Cushioning Washers

 

[NuclearEv]

I just took a look at the ones on our car and we do have the rattle. It appears that the rubber stops are worn down on ours, which makes sense as to why it rattles. The only obvious solution to me is to replace the stops, adding washers to the tailgate side will just wear the stops further and the rattle will be back in however fast they wear.

 

[marker]

I'm an Australian MY 2022 RWD with about 16,000 km. In the last month, the I5 has developed a rattle in the tailgate. Sounds like it is mostly at the rear left of the tailgate.

It occurs when I drive on irregular pavement or unsealed roads. Speed bumps also make it rattle.

I adjusted the plastic screw-in stops on the bottom of the tailgate but it didn't seem to make much difference.

The Hyundai service people looked at it and think it's something loose within the tailgate, not a noise caused by a less than snug fit against the body. They want to take it apart under warranty.

Anyone else experiencing a rattle from the back?

Yes I have the same rattle noise in my 2022 Ioniq 5 SEL 2WD- very annoying. I wonder if it has something to do with the left tear seatbelt inertial tensioning mechanism ? How can I get it fixed?

 

[NuclearEv]

Mine developed the same thing and when I checked the rubber stoppers I noticed they're worn. Check to see if yours are also worn down.
I'll get them to change them at the next service, hopefully as a warranty issue. Alternatively I can probably order them and change them myself.

 

[Lin19687]

IF it is the clasp mechanism on the tailgate.. sounds more metal... then take ELECTRICAL TAPE and wrap it around the "U" (upsidedown u) where the hatch connects near the bumper.

Works 100000% !!!!!!!!!!

 

[frank.beetz]

Could you please post a picture of that mod?

 

[frank.beetz]

IF it is the clasp mechanism on the tailgate.. sounds more metal... then take ELECTRICAL TAPE and wrap it around the "U" (upsidedown u) where the hatch connects near the bumper.

Works 100000% !!!!!!!!!!

Could you please post a picture of that modification?

 

[majdjammal05]

I'm an Australian MY 2022 RWD with about 16,000 km. In the last month, the I5 has developed a rattle in the tailgate. Sounds like it is mostly at the rear left of the tailgate. It occurs when I drive on irregular pavement or unsealed roads. Speed bumps also make it rattle. I adjusted the plastic screw-in stops on the bottom of the tailgate but it didn't seem to make much difference. The Hyundai service people looked at it and think it's something loose within the tailgate, not a noise caused by a less than snug fit against the body. They want to take it apart under warranty. Anyone else experiencing a rattle from the back?

Man this is exactly my struggle right now ! It's so annoying you feel like not driving the car because if the noise !

 

[Orarian]

Man this is exactly my struggle right now ! It's so annoying you feel like not driving the car because if the noise !

My rattle is now gone (but I'll wait until our winter to be sure) @majdjammal05. Washers under the tailgate side stops, 1 mm thick, worked way better than adjusting the screw stops at the bottom of the tailgate. Plus a bit of dry silicon lube to the ball joints that attach the lift struts. Hope you find a solution that works.

 

[Lin19687]

Could you please post a picture of that modification?

I don't have a pic.... when you open the hatch, look down at where it attaches to in the middle..... that metal silver thing.
Get electrical tape, it is a thickk black stretchy tape and STICKY!!!

 

[frank.beetz]

I don't have a pic.... when you open the hatch, look down at where it attaches to in the middle..... that metal silver thing.
Get electrical tape, it is a thickk black stretchy tape and STICKY!!!

Thanks for your reply - but if I interpret your description correctly than you refer to the latch lock (hook)?

That thing is designed to make metal-metal contact with the lock mechanism on the trunk door.
If you wrap this with electrical tape, after a while - there will be plastic/rubber/glue all over the locking mechanism?!?

Has anybody really done this?

 

[Lin19687]

Yes that is the part
This has been done by a few people. If you open/close the hatch a lot I would just keep an eye on it. If it starts to fray then rewrap it........... trust me the dealer can't fix this. For 4 minutes of your time, even if you have to do it 3 times a year, it's worth it !

 

[Jug]

I did the tape thing on the lock mechanism on the trunk door and it worked a treat. When I took the car in for a 15,000mile service at the Stevens Creek garage I asked if they could do a proper fix. They pulled off the tape and tightened up the rubber boots at the base of the tailgate which results in a strained closure when closing the tailgate. Ugh. They said there was no Hyundai recommended fix to it which is why they pulled off the tape. Ugh.

 

[planitearth]

I sent my I5 with rattly boot into Hyundai to take a look at. They said that they needed to rebook it in to make sure that 2 people were available to remove the whole boot door and reattach.
On getting it back, the noise was gone, however the door really seemed to be strained at closing.
Around 3 weeks later and the rattling was back.
Unfortunately, I think that we just need to accept the rattling as a 'feature' of the car.

 

[150psito48v]

I sent my I5 with rattly boot into Hyundai to take a look at. They said that they needed to rebook it in to make sure that 2 people were available to remove the whole boot door and reattach.
On getting it back, the noise was gone, however the door really seemed to be strained at closing.
Around 3 weeks later and the rattling was back.
Unfortunately, I think that we just need to accept the rattling as a 'feature' of the car.

Well, I am happy now that I have completely eliminated the boot rattle.

In my earlier post I showed the fitting of the two recommended washers. This did indeed effect a harder grip between the bottom boot stop and the top boot stop. You can see the slight deformation on the lower stop.

Unfortunately although this gave a big improvement it still rattled a bit. I think this is because the two stops are made of a too hard a plastic. I decided the solution was to introduce a soft layer between the tow stops, a bit like I did at the first attempt with a piece of Velcro.

So I smeared a thin coating of a silicone like glue onto the top stop and left it to dry over two days. This left it a bit sticky on the outside and not wanting to seal the boot shut I dusted it with a bit of talcum powder.

The result after 10 days testing is a completely silent boot at last !
This is the product I used to smear the top stop. Not pretty, but effective.

 

[NuclearEv]

I'm thinking of just replacing the stops. Mine are visibly worn out.
I'm going to order these and see if that makes it go away:

Hyundai Parts Pro is now Motor Motor

Hyundai Parts Pro is now Motor Motor

 

[Lin19687]

I did the tape thing on the lock mechanism on the trunk door and it worked a treat. When I took the car in for a 15,000mile service at the Stevens Creek garage I asked if they could do a proper fix. They pulled off the tape and tightened up the rubber boots at the base of the tailgate which results in a strained closure when closing the tailgate. Ugh. They said there was no Hyundai recommended fix to it which is why they pulled off the tape. Ugh.

This... THIS is why I won't let them fart around with it. Had then fart around with my Bolt... never again... electrical tape

 

[Lin19687]

I sent my I5 with rattly boot into Hyundai to take a look at. They said that they needed to rebook it in to make sure that 2 people were available to remove the whole boot door and reattach.
On getting it back, the noise was gone, however the door really seemed to be strained at closing.
Around 3 weeks later and the rattling was back.
Unfortunately, I think that we just need to accept the rattling as a 'feature' of the car.

Try the electrical tape on the metal latch... what have you got to lose?

 

[gimme_a_hi_5]

I had the rattle in my RWD SEL and decided to wrap the lower bumpers with felt tape and that worked for a while. Seemed to close the trunk a little "tighter" but over time the felt tape would wear a bit and then the rattle would start to come back.

I ended up buying some Honda brand "shin etsu" silicone grease and applied it generously on all 4 bumpers as well as the the mechanical/electronic latch, as well the the metal hook it locks to. No noise so far in about 100 miles of driving and in cold weather.

If the noise returns every couple of months in cold weather I have no issues just trying to grease things up again.

Very surprised to see the "washer method" end up adding some wear and tear to those bumpers.

The type of grease that I purchased also apparently works wonders on breathing new life into weather seals around the car and is generally good for rubber/plastic in general.