I generally just start the car while it's charging and use any of the functions I want while waiting. It won't allow you to put it in gear while charging and any slowdown because you have the car running is negligible in my experience.

 

Just turn the car back on. It won't let you shift into drive while plugged in. About the only thing I've noticed that doesn't work during DCFC is the v2l outlet in the back seat. But yes, you can keep your a/c and ventilated seats going.

 

I'v done this for two years now, yup, just pull up, put it in park (AC still on, car still on), plug in the charger, let it charge, AC stays on and warns you it may charge you slower. After you put the DCFC back you'll need to press start again to leave as it appears to put it in park and not ready once DCFC starts (makes sense).

I've done 1,000 mile road trips under 35 and over 110, and always have the climate on and windows up when charging.

 

Thank you ALL for the replies !!! Glad to hear it's more simple that going to a "GAS STATION" and filling up in the heat of summer !

 

Wait, I thought EV charging was supposed to be way more inconvenient than putting gas in a car?? You mean I’ve been lied to?

 

Sure thing, doing it now! Pulled up with ac on, plugged in, 30-80% in under 20 min, cool, happy, life’s good 👍.

 

The only thing to be aware of is that in extreme heat with cabin AC on, the car can, "rapidgate" as indicated by the screen warning of slower charging potential. This may inherently slow down the charge rate a bit to mitigate the massive amount of heat that gets put into the battery at the high DCFC power rates the I5 can accept. Not a deal breaker by any means, and not a terribly common occurrence either.

The other effect this can have is that it will also take longer to cool the battery once you set off after a charge. In my observations over many roadtrips using an OBD reader, the battery cooling remains active until the battery max temp is around 92 degrees F (33 C). Since the car shares the heat exchanger on the A/C system with the cabin and the battery, both can get less cooling power when the battery is at a high temp and the cabin AC is on. I've also observed the battery cooling power draw be less when the cabin AC is on vs off. This will then inherently take longer to cool the battery, which means the AC will also be drawing more power to keep both the cabin and battery cool. This will hit your efficiency a bit as battery cooling can draw up to 3 kW (though typically more in the realm of 1-2 kW draw), in addition to the 1-3 kW that cabin AC takes.

My strategy in the heat is usually to not sit in the car if possible and just go into a shop or something (and turn the car off) until it's ready. Regardless of whether I stay in the car or not, I also use a sunshield in the front windshield to help keep the cabin a bit cooler. I try and not overuse the cabin A/C when charging and immediately after. In my mind, the quicker the battery cools to a manageable temp, the better it's efficiency / performance as well as a very, very slight boost in battery longevity. That being said, there is absolutely no need to fry in the car for the battery's sake either.

 

The only thing to be aware of is that in extreme heat with cabin AC on, the car can, "rapidgate" as indicated by the screen warning of slower charging potential. This may inherently slow down the charge rate a bit to mitigate the massive amount of heat that gets put into the battery at the high DCFC power rates the I5 can accept. Not a deal breaker by any means, and not a terribly common occurrence either.

The other effect this can have is that it will also take longer to cool the battery once you set off after a charge. In my observations over many roadtrips using an OBD reader, the battery cooling remains active until the battery max temp is around 92 degrees F (33 C). Since the car shares the heat exchanger on the A/C system with the cabin and the battery, both can get less cooling power when the battery is at a high temp and the cabin AC is on. I've also observed the battery cooling power draw be less when the cabin AC is on vs off. This will then inherently take longer to cool the battery, which means the AC will also be drawing more power to keep both the cabin and battery cool. This will hit your efficiency a bit as battery cooling can draw up to 3 kW (though typically more in the realm of 1-2 kW draw), in addition to the 1-3 kW that cabin AC takes.

My strategy in the heat is usually to not sit in the car if possible and just go into a shop or something (and turn the car off) until it's ready. Regardless of whether I stay in the car or not, I also use a sunshield in the front windshield to help keep the cabin a bit cooler. I try and not overuse the cabin A/C when charging and immediately after. In my mind, the quicker the battery cools to a manageable temp, the better it's efficiency / performance as well as a very, very slight boost in battery longevity. That being said, there is absolutely no need to fry in the car for the battery's sake either.

It will be nice if you can post screen shots of carscanner pids and how it effects fast DC charging if you use cabin cooling at same time.
Your comment is correct on how battery temperature management is managed.
Setting temperature all the way down...fan on 2-3 on manual, recalculation on is most efficient way if cabin cooling is required at same time as battery pack charging in hot weather.
I personally prefer 150 kw fast DC chargers in hot weather conditions, so I'm not pushing max charging speed on battery pack and at this scenario use of air conditioning for battery pack and cabin at the same time, don't task 100% requirement on air conditioning compressors.

 

I own an Ioniq 5, and I find that when I pull up to a charger, I have to turn my car off, or else the charging door won't open. Once the charger is plugged in and charging, you can go in your car and "start" it like normal, and turn the air conditioner back on. As other people have mentioned, the car won't let you drive away with the cord plugged in, and you don't have to worry about sparks igniting gas fumes like an electric car!

 

I own an Ioniq 5, and I find that when I pull up to a charger, I have to turn my car off, or else the charging door won't open.

In my I5, while car is running, I open the charging door with a voice command: “Open charging door” or something like that. Has always worked, and no need to shut off car or HVAC.

 

Much of this thread is well above my pay grade, but fascinating nonetheless. My previous fast charge was not done in conditions hot enough to rapidgate the battery, but I did manage to get photos of the consumption difference of AC on vs AC off, immediately post charging (max battery temp approx 110 F as read on my OBD). This illustrates the difference in energy directed towards battery temperature management with regards to cabin AC status. Apologies for the smudgey fingerprints....

 

You will learn with time. Understanding how EV works will help you drive more efficiently and it will help you how to test or check used EV if you ever decide to buy one.
You can start with
Carscanner app
And Obdlink CX or MX+ dongle....this will help you see many things that infotainement screen will never show you.