[AckyT]

it's distressing to read about this happening. I thought Tesla was the only car that overcomplicated emergency egress with little concern of the consequences. But more relevantly a similar incident happened here in 2021 with a Kia Hybrid resulting in a fatality.

I had photographed the article at the time and was able to find it on a backup.

View attachment 58879

Thanks so much for copying me into the article from NZ. How on earth can a car manufacturing not have a fail safe way of getting out of an electric car in the event that all electrics fail?
I intend to take my story to the Local/ National News outlets.

 

[AckyT]

Well, that was easy. Here are more details than anyone needs, step by step.

2024 Ioniq 5 RWD LR SEL. US model.

1. I got in the car and put it in READY.
2. I opened the driver's window. I shut off the car.
3. I released the hood.
4. I got out and closed the door.
5. I reached in and locked the doors with the button on the driver's armrest.
6. I took my fob inside, just for insurance although I was sure it wouldn't be a factor.
7. I lifted the hood and popped the cover off the battery.
8. I disconnected the negative clamp from the battery post and moved it away from the post.
9. I reached in the open driver's window and pulled the inside driver's door handle
10. One ping pull only, Vasily. One pull only, please.
11. The door opened.
12. I closed the door.
13. The outside handles all stayed in the retracted position.
14. I opened it again using the inside handle.
15. Again, the outside handles stayed in the locked position.
16. Worked every time. You can feel and hear the mechanism moving.
17. I put it all back together.

There is no logic in making it so the door ONLY opens electrically when that makes it so obviously unsafe.

I can assure you that my Ioniq 5 in the UK, would not open with the handle. I tried several times and there was no way out. Windows and everything electrical was dead. No horn either to bring attention to the situation. Certainly would be interesting to know why Hyundai have different specifications for door handle system in different countries, if that is indeed the case..

 

[AckyT]

You had better get this problem looked into. if you’re correct, It’s not safe.

Certainly intend to do that. Wish there was a direct contact to Hyundai top brass.

 

[AckyT]

Eagerly awaiting @Hitstirrer report on a UK Ioniq repeating @JerryP experiment.

This could be a great safety thread assuming there is a difference in how the door latch operates in different regions.

Another important factor may be more details on the model from @AckyT, namely model year and trim in the event there are differences there?

Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate EV 4x4
2023

 

[AckyT]

This needs a more definitive and comprehensive test to be sure. Anomolies are :- The key fob was away from the car during the test. A window was open. The door being locked by the fob also folded in the mirrors as a full lockdown when parked.

It needs a test simulating the events in the first post. But that's hard to do. Presumably the fob worked to open the car and get in to check the odometer reading. Then the dash said that wanted the fob to be used to start the car. Normally, that is an indication that the fob battery is very low and nothing to do with the 12v battery. But another screen flashed up about the 12v battery. Then, mysteriously, the door was locked and wouldn't open manually.

I can't simulate those conditions for a test.

I can try this. Open normally and sit in the car. Close the door and leave windows closed. Then remove the fob battery to make the car request that 'fob on start button' trick'. Then pull the hood release and get someone else to disconnect the battery. Then see if I can get out using the door handle. That's about as close I can think of to replicate the initial circumstances.

When I have someone to assist with the disconnect and reconnect side of things I'll give that a go.

#Hitstirrer Your attention to detail and assistance is greatly appreciated.

 

[AckyT]

That is ridiculous!! I would’ve passed out from panic, totally unacceptable. Please keep us posted what Hyundai says.

Certainly will. Currently seems like they have no sense of urgency about this and still awaiting a response.

 

[AckyT]

Last week I went to my Ioniq 5 to check my mileage for insurance renewal. The car opened as normal.
When I attempted to start the car, I got a message on screen to press start key with the key fob. Not had it before.
The screen went on briefly and showed a warning about the 12v battery. It quickly went off. I tried to start the vehicle again - but nothing happened.
I tried to leave the car but the handles would not work. It was a very sunny morning and warm in the car. After trying handles a few times without success I tried to open the windows. Nothing. Everything was dead.
I did not have my mobile with me and had left house without telling my wife where I would be.
I began to panic and our car was not visible from any road to alert passers by. The temperature raised in the car and I began to hyperventilate.
After around 20-30 minutes my wife came out of the house to find out where I was. By this time I was in a bit of a state. She sought help from my neighbour who immediately called the Fire Brigade & Ambulance services.
When they arrived I managed to tell them of the brief warning for the 12v battery. The Fire Service were prepared to break windows but my neighbour had a spare 12v battery which fortunately could be hooked up to my car as I was able to release the bonnet. ( Good job that wasn’t electric) After hooking up to the battery they electrics came on and the doors could be opened.
I rang Hyundai when I overcome the shock. They said I had to contact Hyundai Assist who called out the AA.
The AA done quick test on battery and could not detect the issue.
The car was taken to Hyundai. After a day they contacted me to say the cannot find any issues on their diagnostic systems and said the 12v battery was OK.
I told them that this could have been a fatality if I had not been found, as the temperature in the car had raised dramatically , as asked them to provide information on escaping from the car when all electrics went dead.
The answer from them was that a driver would have to climb over front and back seats and then release the tailgate by sliding a flat instrument into the manual release hole on the inside of the tailgate. I’m 71 years of age with limited mobility.

So sorry to go on so much but I want to know if anyone else has had a similar event.
I’m waiting to hear back from Hyundai Customer services who I have registered my concern and complaint with them. I really don’t think they are taking this very 😦

Quick update. I chased up Hyundai UK Customer Services since no one called back. I have a case manager who is responsible for investigating this issue. I’m informed that the case has been Escalated to Management Level. I informed them of the helpful comments received on this Forum and said that Hyundai must try to replicate the situation I experience and come up with answers and solutions. I shall keep you all posted.

 

[AckyT]

The topic has been debated endlessly on these forums since the first I5's were released.

Many (me included) like others in this thread have seen no issues with the 12V. I have a BM2 connected and can see the 12V being maintained whether the cars is parked for a couple of weeks at the airport or in the drive (unplugged into L1/L2), driven regularly or left plugged into L1/l2 for several days. For the first 18 months of ownership I just charged (L1/L2//L3) when HV battery dropped to 20 - 30% recently I plug in every night to charge to 80%.

It's always the same if the (unloaded) 12V battery goes to around 12.6V it gets recharged. If left undriven for around 3 days it goes into a deep sleep requiring very few 12V top ups.

However you and others see different. Do I recall correctly your 12V issues were soon after you got the car? Maybe the car had sat on the lot for many months before you bought it and the 12V had not been maintained? Other have had issues after getting work on the car and the 12V had not been maintained when disconnected. Other had accessories (dash cams etc) connected. Others maybe something else?

My car is approaching two years old (next month) with 21k miles and the original OEM battery is still being maintained correctly. When I need to replace it I will get an AGM battery (which is what Hyundai used in development) but for now the BM2 plots show it is being maintained correctly.

Here is a couple of recent plots.

This one the car parked at the airport for a couple of days


View attachment 58926

Level 2 charging for just over an hour at midnight and then the 12V got charged at 7PM

View attachment 58927

Edit - one more plot. 1 week at the airport last September

View attachment 58928

Suggest you read the full thread of this posting before you trivialise the importance of it. There may have been lots of past posts about 12v issues and I’m pleased that you have had no issues.
However, The fact is that I could have died in my car because the 12v battery, for some unknown reason went down, and prevented everything working (Including door handles, windows , horn etc etc. I want to understand WHY.
I had no means of escape, no mobile to get assistance.
Manufactures should be held accountable for such safety issues. I hope you never find yourself in a similar position.

 

[AckyT]

Sorry I was referring to @Arob's comment on whether the 12V gets maintained (which has been endlessly discussed before) not the horrific experience you went though. I should have been clearer. Hopefully you will get an explanatio
@JerryP[/Udemonstrated (in post #19) that in US the door can be unlocked from the inside with a dead 12V. Likewise [USER=41318]@David J. has shown (in post #47) in Australia it can be unlocked from inside with dead 12V. I don't think some of the later posters have picked up it seems to vary by market.

It does seem very strange that the UK is dangerously different. I am really surprised that would even be legal in the UK - it is indeed a death trap and needs to be urgently addressed by Hyundai.

Again sorry if it sounded like I was trivializing your experience. That was absolutely not my intention.

Sorry I was referring to @Arob's comment on whether the 12V gets maintained (which has been endlessly discussed before) not the horrific experience you went though. I should have been clearer. Hopefully you will get an explanation from Hyundai UK.

@JerryP Has demonstrated (in post #19) that in US the door can be unlocked from the inside with a dead 12V. Likewise @David J. has shown (in post #47) in Australia it can be unlocked from inside with dead 12V. I don't think some of the later posters have picked up it seems to vary by market.

It does seem very strange that the UK is dangerously different. I am really surprised that would even be legal in the UK - it is indeed a death trap and needs to be urgently addressed by Hyundai.

Again sorry if it sounded like I was trivializing your experience. That was absolutely not my intention.

Understood and accepted

 

[AckyT]

Well here is an interesting update from my visit to the Hyundai dealer Today.
I went in essentially to have battery tested again. They say it was reading healthy on their systems.
I made reference to the help and advice received from the forum regarding testing in US, UK and Australia. (Many thanks to those who contributed).
The Hyundai technician said that he had himself tried to replicate my situation by opening window, then locking the vehicle and then disconnecting the battery. Initially he said that the car did open from the inside.
However, he decided to conduct the same test whilst I was there onsite.
It has to be said that when the window was opened the car was locked with the key fob.
The test was conducted with the battery connected and with it disconnected. In both situations the car could NOT be opened by the handles (Inside or out). He was left scratching his head.😰 He had thought that with the battery connected the Deadlocking System would still be operational but without the battery connected it would have deactivated the deadlocking. This was not proved to be the case.
When your testing was done, was the car locked by the interval lock switch or the key fob. Could this be a vital ingredient to what has gone wrong?
I know when i went into my car last week, i would not have locked the car door with the key fob.

I have again spoken to Hyundai UK and they are beginning to understand the seriousness of my event. I’m informed that my case has been escalated to Management Level.

if anyone has further observations or can run tests again by locking car with the key fob then I would be interested to hear your feedback.

 

[AckyT]

Interesting observation. I wonder why UK version is made different than US/Australia versions. Or is OP's car may be one of the earlier builds of the car? (Which year is your car? I am not sure whether you mention it)

2023 Ioniq 5 Ultimate 4WD

 

[AckyT]

To clarify the tests I did:
1. Opened drivers window and released frunk latch.
2. Locked car with key fob and moved it about 3 metres away.
3. Opened frunk and disconnected 12v battery.
4. Reached through the open window to operate the inside door handle (it opened easily).
Also tried it with me sitting in the car and locking it with the fob, which I kept in my pocket (it opened easily).

I also compared the feel of the front and back door handles and the action felt the same, with an easy pull which then met a little extra resistance as the tension came on the cable to the latch, then the click as it released. I then operated the child lock and the back door felt the same initially, but then there was no extra resistance and the handle operated all the way without releasing the latch. In other words, it felt like the mechanical link (via cable I think) between the handle and latch was disconnected, rather than the action being blocked, when the child lock was activated.
Can the OP remember how the front handle felt when it was locked? Did it move freely all the way without opening the door (like a child locked rear door), or was its movement blocked by being locked?

Later, I went back to the car to get something (without the fob as its normally left unlocked in the garage) and found I'd left it locked with the window open, so I just reached in and pulled the interior handle, then nearly shat myself when the alarm went off!!

When I was locked in the car, the handles in the front moved freely with no resistance or any sign that a mechanical action was trying to take place. I did not attempt rear doors as I could not reach them.

 

[AckyT]

It seems that the interior front door handles (at least in the UK model and circumstances the OP had) have the same functionality as the rears in that there is a locking mode that disconnects the mechanical connection between the handle and the latch, preventing the interior handle from opening the door. This raises the question of what the point is in having that on the front doors. For the rear, there is a need to stop children opening the door, but I can't think of any case where there is a need to prevent the front handles from operating. Am I missing something here?

Think it’s all about anti-theft system and deadlocking.

 

[AckyT]

Just checked our Australian 2WD "Dynamiq" spec. Front and rear side windows are laminated.
It seems Hyundai hadn't got the specs well sorted for Aus models in 2022. Our "Dynamiq" has the interior power outlet and HUD, but friends who bought a more expensive "Techniq" spec 2WD got the sunroof and memory seats with footrests, but no power outlet or HUD.

Not certain what you mean by power outlet and HUD. Can you clarify?