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Jacking Points

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62K views 38 replies 23 participants last post by  erewhon  
#1 ·
Does anyone know where the preferred jacking (lifting) points are on the Ioniq 5? I always rotate the tires myself and can't seem to find this in the instruction manual. I know it's especially important to not lift on areas that might damage the battery or other structures on an electric vehicle.
 
#13 ·
There are two grooved pinch points as indicated on the drawings where you can put your jack at. Note, not to jack up on the battery frame rails which are close those areas as well. I read somewhere that a towing company hooked on to the battery frame rail on another ev and the whole battery had to be replaced because of the stress damage.

If you are concern of crushing the pinch flanges, you can purchase the rubber pads with a grooved slot that you can put on the hydraulic jack, the pad will fit around the pinch weld flanges and not put pressure on them. Or you can use a rubber hockey puck and cut/grind a straight 1/4" groove in the middle of the puck.
 

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#4 ·
For some reason its not in the manual, probably because there is no spare tire to change. I did manage to find a document online which showed the jacking points in the normal locations close the wheel arches. If you look under the car in those areas you can see the jacking locations marked with two ribs as on other cars.

I managed to find the document again. See link below:

 
#32 · (Edited)
Been some chat re Jacking the I5, and EVs in general, in another thread. Worth a look-see, also has links to an EV-special QuickJack that's designed for Teslas, perhaps suitable for us here?
Front bumper removal - look here if you need advice!

and the specially-long-and-strong item itself:
6000ELX

Love the tip about using hockey puck & machining slot to make your own cheap-but-strong pads - I think that will be be perfct for my Ioniq 38!
 
#33 ·
Love the tip about using hockey puck & machining slot to make your own cheap-but-strong pads - I think that will be be perfct for my Ioniq 38!
I lift my van and my wife's HI5 with a set of QuickJacks. They work well but honestly are annoying to set up and use.

However: DO NOT USE RUBBER PINCH WELD ADAPTERS!

Yes, that includes home-made hockey puck types. They're fine for a quick up/down like rotating tires. Unfortunately, if you discover a problem and have to leave the car up there for days/week while parts come in, the rubber will gradually creep, then split, then drop the car. I have had two different sets of rubber/plastic pinch weld adapters do this, one of which was the official set from the QuickJack company. I now use a set of aluminum pinch weld adapters that have so far been durable.
 
#10 ·
I'd like to know is it ok to lift the Ioniq5 one corner at a time to say install winter wheels? seems there'd be possible stress on the battery compartment.

There is no jack supplied. and there is no mention if using a jack in the manuel. the only image shown is 4 lift points and a picture of a hoist which as we now lifts the entire vehicle.
 
#11 ·
I'd like to know is it ok to lift the Ioniq5 one corner at a time to say install winter wheels? seems there'd be possible stress on the battery compartment.

There is no jack supplied. and there is no mention if using a jack in the manuel. the only image shown is 4 lift points and a picture of a hoist which as we now lifts the entire vehicle.
I done it with 1 corner at time, what was fearing me was more about the weight of this car 4700 pounds and the capacity of my hydraulic jack.
I used my old 2 tones hydraulic jack and it had no trouble jacking all car corner.

Don't fear about the battery (Just don't jack under or course) and use normal jacking place. They made a security space perimeter around battery and added a frame for this battery to add rigidity for adding crash protection next to the car frame.
 
#30 ·
Anyone know if QuickJack car lifts or anything similar are safe? I want to get them to rotate tires and do other things, but my wife think they are dangerous looking.
I have a Quick Jack that I've used for 3 years lifting our 2020 Corvette. It's VERY safe and stable. HOWEVER, the QJ lift I have is rated for 5000 pounds and that's getting very close to the weight of our I5. I'm sure there is a safety factor built in so it would be OK, but I would still put a set of jack stands under it, If I were to get under it in any fashion. Rotating tires would not be an issue for me.

I've not tried lifting it yet. First of all, I would need another set of 4 jacking pucks with the Saw cut center, as our Corvette uses flat round pucks. I will likely get a set of new pucks to save driving to the dealer just for tire rotation.

Here's our Vette up on the lift. Raises it 21". The newer lifts are 24" height ...... mine has a 66" front to back lift distance max. I need to go measure the I5 to see if the lifting areas are in that distance.

Image
 
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#5 · (Edited)
Not an owner yet, so I can't say. But I do my own routine maintenance work too, so this is a concern. Generally when rotating tires I lift in the middle of either front or back. Tesla lists no jack points like this. I've read their mobile service crews just use one of the jack points on a side to lift both wheels on that side, swapping one side at a time.

Maybe the 5 has no center jack points at the ends either? Not sure why EVs couldn't have jack pints like that. Don't they carry their suspensions on subframes like most ICEVs?

As for side jacking points, those should be marked pretty conspicuously. Any tire shop needs to be able to find the right place for their lift pads without thinking about it.
 
#34 ·
Williaty........ do you have a link to WHAT pucks you are using? If not, what is the width, and depth of the slot needed on the puck to get proper fit? I would not want to guess and get a set that are not deep enough, or not wide enough to fit over the pinch weld location.
 
#36 ·
Thanks ! I was just looking at those exact same ones, but didn't know if the width of the slot, and depth of the slot was proper for this I5..... I assume, it is a good fit ???
 
#37 ·
Width is good. Depth is fine. FWIW, speaking from having owned an auto shop for a decade and seen what every other shop in the area including the dealers are doing, when your car isn't in your own hands, everyone is supporting it off the pinch weld, not off the area adjacent to the pinch weld. Everyone is using flat pads on shop lifts. I have never seen any damage from it (which is why I was willing to do it too back in the day). Don't get me wrong, I've absolutely seen pinch welds damaged from jacking/supporting, but it was always from boyfriend's-sister's-cousin's-friend-bubba who was doing something REALLY stupid like using a bottle jack (small contact area) or trying to support a pinch weld on an axle stand. So to to me it doesn't matter if a pinch weld adapter is carrying the load on the bottom of the slot or on the top of the pad. What I don't want to see is anything that localizes all the force into a small spot or something like a flat steel pad where the pinch weld isn't being given any additional stability and can collapse.

On those marks, the aluminum adapters I linked to are fine.
 
#39 · (Edited)
I use the "jackrod" from AGM products.
see == > Jack Rod

This is the jackrod:
Image



This is the jackrod used with a floor jack:
Image


I use the floor jack to lift my Ioniq 5, then insert the jackrod, and finally lower the floor jack so that it rests on on the jackrod. The whole thing becomes, in effect, a jack stand.

Very secure and you need only the single lift point. I've used it at home for a routine tire rotation, and it works very well.

(I also have a spare tire, which helps greatly with the rotation!)