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You can't say that until you consistently get the same results with other chargers. I will bet the issue is an overheating charger.
Hello, I have tried a Grizzl e and a juice box, they both stop charging when it is warm in the garage and both have heat ratings higher than the garage temp so not sure why they stop other than just it being hot.
 
With my charge point I lowered the in vehicle setting from max to whatever the middle setting is called. Knocked it down from 9.5 to 8.5kw and never had an issue since. Just the connector is getting overheated with summer temps
 
We had no problems (L2 @ 40A) for several weeks after purchase in late June until about 9/1, then started to experience this every time. The car is in a garage with some but not-great ventilation. I'd have to say the garage is not really much warmer (82F?) on average now than it was before the problem started, although we did add an in-garage Powerwall to our PV system in mid-August that seems to throw a bit more heat into the mix. Strangely, our charging always halts after 5 to 15 minutes, but if we then restart (maybe 30 to 45 minutes later) it runs to completion (over a couple/few hours?) on the second attempt. I have a hard time believing that our garage cools down enough in the brief interval between the failed and successful charge sessions (usually around 9pm) to make that much difference. I'm going to stay at 40A for a while longer to see if this odd pattern persists or if slightly lower October temperatures fix the problem. After that I will start tweaking the EVSE current down as others have done.
 
I had this issue as well, I had no issues charging when I first got the car back in May, but in late June, I started to have the charge issue. Lowered the amperage to 32 from 40 and it charges fine. I just kept it like that until yesterday since the car was going in for steering wheel ticking issue.

Well, the dealership just called and said - "we did not have any issues charging overnight - we found the charge issue code in the history and just cleared it - set your charge to 100 % and you should not have any issues".. Ugh..

Also, regarding the steering wheel ticking issue, - "well, the steering wheel works just fine, regarding the ticking, we don't have another Ioniq 5 to compare the sound to. As long as there is no issues with steering wheel, there isn't much we can do here - unless you want to leave us the car until we get a new Ioniq 5 so that we can compare the sound which could take few weeks". :(

Where do they find these guys? - Unfortunately, this is CLOSEST EV certified dealer from my place - though there are 2 Hyundai dealers near my place, they are not "EV certified". ;(
 
The on-board charger is an integral part of the ICCU (Integrated Charging Control Unit). ICCU is most likely in the common cooling loop with the rear motor and inverter, because ICCU/VCMS temperature sensors warm up quite a bit while driving, as I see in Car Scanner app. Therefore - as rbdavis808's test indicated - it might be a good idea to let the vehicle cool down after driving in summer, before connecting to a AC-charger.

Forum member Upa observed that the OBC Temperature A/B and VCMS AC Inlet temperature sensors (in Car Scanner ELM OBD2 app, or other diagnostic tool) will rise significantly up to 100°C, when charging sessions are interrupted.

ICCU in the vehicle:
 
The on-board charger is an integral part of the ICCU (Integrated Charging Control Unit). ICCU is most likely in the common cooling loop with the rear motor and inverter, because ICCU/VCMS temperature sensors warm up quite a bit while driving, as I see in Car Scanner app. Therefore - as rbdavis808's test indicated - it might be a good idea to let the vehicle cool down after driving in summer, before connecting to a AC-charger.
Actually, that's not quite what I said, sorry if my comments were confusing. Here's our typical charging sequence at the moment:

(1) Car returns to an 85degF home garage in late afternoon, then sits for 3 or 4 hours.
(2) Start L2 @ 40A charge shortly after 8pm, which aborts in somewhere between 5 and 15 minutes.
(3) Depending upon random diligence level of the day, I discover failure between 20 and 40 minutes after it occurs, then restart 40A charge.
(4) Charge continues successfully to 80% configured target, taking however long it takes (2 to 4 hours?).

What seems weird to me is that the garage temperatures at the start time of each charge attempt are essentially the same, yet it's always only the second charge attempt that succeeds. I would think that second attempt would actually be less likely to succeed given that only 30 minutes or so beforehand I 'pre-overheated' the charger during the first failed attempt.
 
This is the only flaw with my car. What I don't understand why hyundai doesn't do anything to resolve the issue. They clearly know what is going on because in the settings it says if it stops charging reduce the current. As long as I can charge overnight I'm happy.
 
I originally thought these charge session disconnects were related to a faulty temperature sensor unfortunately I have now come to the conclusion there is definitely something wrong with the car's AC inlet connection/wiring. It can't handle anything above 42 amps. At 48 amps or 11.3KW and 20C ambient I just logged the car's AC inlet temperature sensor rise in about 20 minutes to 100C or 212F before it disconnected from the EVSE. The j1772 connector and car's CCS AC port were hot to touch. If the car's AC inlet temp sensor were to fail its quite possible this would be a fire risk. I can see this being a recall issue eventually.

View attachment 45250
Same conclusion in the EV6 forum (AC charging was interrupted 3 times at 100°C / 212°F):
 
Hi. I had my car on the charger in my garage last night. I noticed my phone app was going off, and saying charging stopped. I started the charge again and 30 minutes later it stopped again. This happened a few times. I have had this set up for 3 months with no issues. I did not know what to do so I put a box fan on towards the charger, elevated the cable off the ground. I am not sure if this was the fix but it did not stop after and completed charge. Does this sound familiar? I am using the grizzl e classic. The temps outside hit 100 yesterday, maybe it was just too hot in my garage? Thanks!
Hello did you solve the issue? I’m having the same issue it’s stopping the charge constantly. my charger point is AUTEL. I don’t what to do.
 
Hello did you solve the issue? I’m having the same issue it’s stopping the charge constantly. my charger point is AUTEL. I don’t what to do.
I recently lowered our EVSE output current from 40A to 32A and that seems to be working for me so far. Others have had this repaired at the dealer, or played with the car's own high/medium/low charge setting.
 
I recently lowered our EVSE output current from 40A to 32A and that seems to be working for me so far. Others have had this repaired at the dealer, or played with the car's own high/medium/low charge setting.
Oh ok... did it work it? IONIQ 5 is supposed to Support 48A my charger is 50A and I put 48A it worked without issue for 3 weeks then I have had this issue, I'll try to reduce more amps and see then.
 
Oh ok... did it work it? IONIQ 5 is supposed to Support 48A my charger is 50A and I put 48A it worked without issue for 3 weeks then I have had this issue, I'll try to reduce more amps and see then.
Our I5 charged at 40A perfectly every time for the first two months after we bought it. It then started failing every time although the ambient temperature in our garage did not really seem any warmer than it did when things were working. After switching to 32A two weeks ago, charging has again worked every time, but I have no idea if this will continue to be true -- maybe the in-car circuitry will continue to degrade and then overheat at the lower 32A current also? I hope not!
 
Our I5 charged at 40A perfectly every time for the first two months after we bought it. It then started failing every time although the ambient temperature in our garage did not really seem any warmer than it did when things were working. After switching to 32A two weeks ago, charging has again worked every time, but I have no idea if this will continue to be true -- maybe the in-car circuitry will continue to degrade and then overheat at the lower 32A current also? I hope not!
Thanks for your advice and I'll do it to see if it works
 
Our I5 charged at 40A perfectly every time for the first two months after we bought it. It then started failing every time although the ambient temperature in our garage did not really seem any warmer than it did when things were working. After switching to 32A two weeks ago, charging has again worked every time, but I have no idea if this will continue to be true -- maybe the in-car circuitry will continue to degrade and then overheat at the lower 32A current also? I hope not!
Thanks for your advice and I'll do it to see if it works
Mine was the same at 40A, initially worked fine for about 2 months, then stoppage, it won't charge reliably during all summer anything higher than 32A.
Dealer claimed that their charger worked FINE but of course, they weren't even able to tell me what kind of amperage their charger runs at. That said, recently, with cooler weather, I tried upping the amperage to 36A and it works well where as before, even 36A would fail.
 
Considering all those brands are (trying to) function in the Southwest heat wave I really think the common denominator is just plain heat - electronics don't do well in it. It sounds like you folks could toast marshmallows by waving them out the window, I hope for your sakes it eases up soon. All I can suggest is maybe restrict charging to night time and maybe in stages to allow cooldowns.
 
Considering all those brands are (trying to) function in the Southwest heat wave I really think the common denominator is just plain heat - electronics don't do well in it.
I think heat is exacerbating, but it isn't the only problem. Here in Massachusetts where evening temps are now below freezing, I still can't charge at 48A in my cold garage without it shutting down.
 
Mine fixed at the dealership. They had to replace the charging wires and that seems to have fixed the issue. They were going to replace the charging maintenance system itself, but chose not to.
Are you able to provide your dealership info so that my dealer could contact them to discuss their findings/approach. Mine has not been able to replicate the issue that I keep having.
 
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