Updated
This is a constantly updated overview, answers to common questions and source for tips on the Ioniq 5. Unlike an internal combustion car, reading the manual is actually important for new EV owners and likely all-new Ioniq 5 owners. Also, you will find postings of real-world experiences by owners on YouTube much more helpful than those of car review sites.
The Search Community window at the top of any forum page is a great way to quickly access information and responses to previous posts across the Ioniq 5 Forum.
Model Years
There are several model years that differ in specs. It’s important to know the specs of your year and trim. Many You Tube videos are not clear what the spec and MY of the car is. This can lead to confusion when your car is different than theirs.
Project 45 (P45)
The first release of the Ioniq 5 in 2021 in UK and Europe. Preconditioning of the battery available by dealer update in battery heater equipped cars.
MY2022 UK and Europe
Released in UK and Europe in later part 2021 and early part 2022. Has a 72 instead of 77 KW drive battery. See your release specs. Preconditioning of the battery available by dealer update in battery heater equipped cars.
MY2022 US and Canada
Released end of 2021. Has the 77 KW drive battery. See your release specs. Battery preconditioning update available for battery heater equipped cars in US and all in Canada.
MY2022.5 UK and Europe
Released mid 2022. Has 77 KW drive battery for longe range trims. Mainly similar to MY2022 US and Canada.
See your release specs for other changes. Preconditioning of the battery available by dealer update in battery heater equipped cars. Later half of 2022 manufactured MY2022 US and Canada have battery preconditioning standard.
MY2023 World
Released later part 2022. Battery preconditioning update standard on all battery equipped cars.
Charging
- There have been different Level 1 chargers having come with cars. The majority (if not all) have settings to change the amps delivered to the car (e.g., 2, 6, 12 for 110V and 6, 8, 10 220V) visible on the front in LED lights. When first used these may default to the lowest setting that won't power the car anytime soon. This is a trickle charge and really won’t charge the battery. Look for a button on the unit to hold down to change between amp settings. Set to the maximum amps. This will provide 1.2-1.3 KWh charging with 110V and about 2.2 KWh in 220V countries. Charge rate can be determined using Current (KWh) = amps (A) X volts (V) / 1000 (W/KW).
- In 110 V countries plugging the charger into a 220 V circuit (using plug adapters), such as for washer/dryers, increases charging to 2.7 KW.
- The charger door panel opens from the FOB, by pushing the dimple area on the door, and a manual release from inside the trunk. Pushing the charger door will not work if the car has been sitting a while and off. Some find the dimple area needs to be pressed hard to open. Others have place a pad to promote contact of the door with the open button on the port.
- While charging the adapter will lock to not be removed for theft prevention. To unlock, open the doors and the adapter can be removed for a few seconds. The charge door behaviour can be altered in the car settings. Alternatively cut the power and the adapter will unlock.
- Cooling vents at the front of the car can open when charging. These will make a sound when opening and when the fan is engaged.
- The Ioniq 5 is capable of extremely fast charging. However, many Level 3 charging stations do not come near its max capacity. Also charging current varies with air temperature if the car has been just driven at high speeds and the state of charge of the battery. Generally charging current increases with higher air temperature and battery temperature (to a point) and lower the state of charge.
- The car is capable of pre-heating the battery (called battery pre-conditioning) when a level 3 charger is set as a destination in the Nav. This warms the battery when cold so once at the level 3 station charging will be faster. Most countries with cold climates are rolling out software updates to the P45, MY2022 and MY2022.5 for pre-conditioning. In US and Canada late MY2022 manufactured cars have battery preconditioning as do so MY2023. The US has rolled out battery preconditioning for early MY2022 for AWD trims ( AWD trims in US have a battery heater so can have the update). All trims in Canada have battery heating and the preconditioning update is available. See the specs for your country and trim if a battery heater is included. If you have Winter Mode in settings then you have a heater but not the preconditioning update. If the car has Pre-conditioning in settings, then the heater and update are installed. Leading to confusion the Bluelink App reports pre-conditioning as a function when your P45, MY2022 and MY2022.5 may not actually have the battery heater or update
- Snowflake symbol on driver display means battery is heating to maintain performance. A Red Coil means the battery is preconditioning (heating) to achieve optimum charge efficiency when a destination in the NAV is a charging station.
- Battery preconditioning for optimum charging only functions when a charge station is selected in the NAV, the battery is cold, and the SOC is not very low.
- It is better for the performance of the battery in the long term to usually charge up to 80%. It’s OK to charge to 100% when a greater distance is required.
- There is no best Level 2 (AC on 220V) charger for your home. Your electric provider, government, and dealer may provide a rebate. The car can accept a maximum of 11.6 KWh for level 2 charging (60 amp breaker and 48 amp continuous delivery in North America).
- You can use a Tesla home and destination charger, but you need a Tesla to the Ioniq 5 charge port adapter (e.g., for North America a Tesla to J1772 adapter). Some European Tesla Super Chargers accept the Ioniq 5.
- A loud humming noise inside the car is common when charging at Level 3 (fast DC at commercial charging stations) above 130 KWh.
Range
- The biggest issue new owners have is shock real-world range is lower than advertised. This is OK, your car is not broken.
- The range estimate on the display and in the Bluelink app is just that, an estimate to help plan when to charge. The range estimate is called a GOM, guess-o-meter. The estimate is more accurate the longer you have had the car and with consistent driving habits (acceleration, braking, speed, city, freeway), air temperature, wind speed and direction, rolling resistance of tires/tyres, carrying load, and road surface (wet, snow, gravel).
- Those in cold climates or freeway drivers will see the range estimate steadily decrease over the first weeks of driving. Your car is not broken. The car is improving its range estimate (GOM) based on the recent driving. The range estimate that came with the car was factory setting or for driving on a test in South Korea and didn't consider your climate, freeway driving and driving behaviour.
- The car has a greater range for city than freeway driving. Freeway driving has more air friction resistance and wind speed and direction is a bigger factor.
- For cars that have been driven several hundred miles/km, the GOM displays expected range based on the past outdoor temperature, city or highway driving, driving mode, regen level and driving behaviour. If your next trip varies in the above from the past, the GOM will be off, and it can be considerable for example a plunge in temperature or highway driving.
- Temperatures below -20 C/-4 F and the car will have an estimated range of almost 50% of advertised. At 25 C/77 F the range can be more than 100% of advertised.
- The faster the driving the lower the range.
- There are many driving modes for the car (Eco, Normal, Sport, Snow, i-Pedal), and regeneration settings (0, 1, 2, 3 and Auto). Eco and Snow will give the best range. The best regeneration setting varies with driving conditions and habits. It is by trial to figure out what is best for you. US and Canada late MY2022 and 2023, ECO is very sluggish compared to early MY2022 in ECO. After battery preconditioning update for early MY2022 US owners find ECO has become sluggish.
- In addition to the four regen settings of 0, 1, 2, and 3, the aggressiveness of the settings is set in the EV settings in the main display.
- Setting the climate to driver-only increases the range a bit as does not use heating and AC.
- Using heated steering and seats increases range a bit over cabin heating.
- To sum, cold winter driving range can be extended a bit by parking indoors at temps above those outdoors, preheating the car with shore power before departing, reducing cabin temp while driving, relying more on heating steering wheel and seats than vents, only driver side vent heating, reducing speed, gentle acceleration and limiting coming to a full stop. Snow mode will provide a gentle acceleration.
- Depending on your country, your trim may or may not come with a heat pump. For trims with a heat pump there is still resistive heating and AC as standard.
Dead 12 V Battery
- see Summary of 12V Battery Chatter for more detailed info on the 12 V battery and care
- The car has a 12 V battery to keep power to the computer, Bluelink system, lights, alarm, radio etc. when off. It also engages the main EV battery to allow the car to drive.
- If the 12 V battery is drained the car will not start and the doors won't open if locked. Charging the main EV battery doesn't charge a dead 12 V battery.
- to get into the car with a dead 12 V battery use the mechanical key that is in the fob, push the driver side handle in to reveal a lock under one side. Use the key (inside the fob), then pull the hood release located to the interior side of the driver like in most cars.
- once in the car, if the display shows the total mileage and that a door is open then the 12 V is not dead. Rather likely the fob battery is dead or communication with the fob is compromised. See below Fob section.
- The 12 V battery is under the hood and needs to be jumped to start the car. Jumping requires less current than a combustion vehicle. There are small portable jumping units at affordable prices.
- Some owners are finding the 12 V battery drains. This may be due to leaving lights on, accessories using power when car is not in ON or Utility modes (accessories plugged into front USB port, using the bluelink system a lot, having their car wake frequently, an issue with power draw by the charge port door, leaving the tailgate open, and power draw from the light assembly. Another reason has been an issue with the head assembly unit. Changing that has solved the issue for some.
- A big issue is having the SOC below 35%. The BMS won’t charge the 12V when below that.
- Hyundai service has a list of items to check in sequence when figuring out the issue. It can take a while for them to figure out what the issue is.
- The car will charge the 12 V from the main battery on a schedule. A BMS update to P45 and non-North American cars was rolled out to increase that charging frequency. That BMS update was standard with all cars sold in North America.
- The 12 V battery recharges from the main EV battery. A yellow light appears on the dash indicating charging.
- Having the radio and lights on in ACC (accessories) mode drains the 12 V battery. Better to place car in Utility mode that uses the main EV battery
- Power is on to the USB port next to the 12V socket even when the vehicle is off. An accessory plugged into that port may cause a drain. Other ports are only powered when the car is in On/ignition mode (perhaps Utility mode as well?).
- P45 and MY2022 UK and Europe require a BMS software update by the dealer to more frequently charge the 12V battery. The update is standard on MY2022 US and Canada and MY2022.5.
Fob Issue
- if the fob battery is low or there is a communication problem with it to the car, use the mechanical key in the fOB to open the doors
- tap and push Fob to the Start Button to start the car if the Fob battery is dead
- you will know it is a fob/communication issue rather than 12V battery issue if the driver display is active
- Fob has an indicator light when buttons pressed and battery is fine. If indicator is working then likely a communication issue. Tapping the Fob to push in Start may establish communication again.
- a CR2023 round battery is inside the fob and can be replaced
Infotainment and Bluelink App
- Older software versions had the infotainment system lacking delivery of information and album art for radio and XM.
- The navigation system is handy but also very bad for accuracy. Nav may be getting better with each update. Check that the destination location and routes shown on the display map seem reasonable.
- If your Bluelink app allows, backup the car settings in case the car loses them.
- There is no wireless CarPlay (perhaps Android Car) as well, needs to be plugged into the front USB port above the floor.
- The Bluelink app can be very sluggish in some countries. The app features also differ between countries.
- Infotainment and navigation software updates are available spring and fall each year. It can be downloaded at Official Hyundai Motors Navigation Update Website. You will need to set up an account. Download an installer to you computer. Have a 64 GB memory stick. The stick shouldn’t have anything on you want to keep, the stick is formatted when the installer downloads the upload to it. Download the update directly to the stick, not the computer. Place stick into USB port by 12V socket and the screen will activate to start the installation.
- Voice commands are available. For USA list see User's Manual Other countries lists available. Press the Voice Command Button on the left side of the steering wheel (profile of talking man) and then say the command exactly.
- Here are some popular voice commands
V2L
- Exterior V2L to power external things such as needed for camping is standard on all trims. However, you need to purchase a V2L power adapter to plug into the charging port and a power cord into it. Check your country Hyundai accessories store, not cheap.
- Interior V2L to power external things does not come with all trims. In North America it comes with the Ultimate (Canada) or Limited (USA) package. A setting needs to be selected to use exterior or interior V2L.
Other
- The stock wipers are very poor, you probably want to buy better ones, especially for cold winter climates. To change wipers turn car off, flick wiper controller up. Wipers will move to vertical position. Wipers are standard J snap ones. Turn car on and flick wiper controller up to bring wipers to resting position.
- There is no rear wiper and it was intended that way. Yes it does need a rear wiper.
- The rear camera lens gets dirty fast.
- The frunk for North American RWD models is small and the same as the AWD version. This is not a mistake. The larger frunk as elsewhere is not allowed in the USA without an internal emergency release or internal partitions. Hyundai opted against those. Canada got pulled along. Some owners have been trying to buy the larger frunk from other countries.
- the rattle you hear in the back is likely the tow eye-bolt moving around below the trunk, the seat belt inserts hitting the plastic of the interior or a poor fitting trunk. Flip the seat belt around so the cloth backing hits the interior of the car. Yes, it needs to be checked every time someone uses the back seats. Some have stuck felt to the interior. The eyebolt can be put into the tire inflation kit. The trunk can be adjusted to sit better, extend rubber pad or some have added pads.
- The driving mode does not come back to Auto when starting the car.
- You can put 18” rims on the car for winter tires, just make sure the whole wheel plus tire radius is to spec for the car. Search for wheel specs.
- The car recognizes tire pressure sensors (TPMS) automatically. Just drive the car and after a few minutes you will see the pressure readings on the display. At least this works for the Hyundai recommended TPMS.
- The auto steer is not perfect. Works better on clear well marked freeways. Watch out for merge and divergent lanes as the car try to veer off course. The HDA2 that comes with the top trim works on only certain roadways.
- You may hit the toggle switches on the steering wheel when turning.
- Check the manual for procedures to allow the car to stay in neutral when through a car wash (driver in or out of car).
- new cars may come with a wobble to the drive at high speeds. These are artifacts of shipping where tire pressure is increased and the cars are strapped down for security. Strapping can miss shape the tires. Some cars have been delivered without adjustment of the tyre pressures by the dealer.
- It can be hard to see the setting buttons on the front of the dash below the centre infotainment display in bright sunshine. There is a brightness wheel to the side of the steering wheel but it doesn’t help.
- If your trim is so equipped, set side mirror toggle in L or R position to have mirrors tilt down when reversing.
- If your trim is so equipped, folding side mirrors by pressing the button requires pressing it again on startup to unfold.
- If your trim is so equipped wit auto-foldingng side mirrors, folding them in manually requires them to be also folded out manually. Interior folding button will not work.
- Some have found the dealer is required to correctly position the headlight directions.
- Heat and AC will not work in Accessories mode.
- The upright small area of dash to the exterior side of steering wheel can hold a magnet. Some have used it to place phone or photos.
- When placing in P on sloped ground the car may lurch back 5 cm or an inch or two. Engaging the electric parking brake prevents the movement.
- You can find Ioniq 5 accessories available in your country by going to your country Hyundai website.
- Wait times for ordered cars is extremely long (2 years is common), particularly for top trim AWD versions. You also will not hear often from Hyundai about your order. There are component shortages in manufacturing. The model year 2023 (MY23) may have features changed from the mid-year 2022 (MY22.5) because of component sourcing issues. By the way, what model year you have or will receive is a bit confusing.
- Those who have ordered an Ioniq 5 have likely also ordered other EV cars. Chances are your order position will improve as others decline a car because of having gotten a different EV.
- In some countries dealerships are asking above manufacturer’s suggested retail price.
- You can easily remove the IONIQ 5 white decal letters at the back of the car.
- Changing the trim level on an order has resulted in later placement in the build queue.
Common Abbreviations
ACC = adoptive cruise control
ACC = accessories mode (car uses 12 V battery for lights, infotainment etc.)
ADAS = advanced (or autonomous) driver assistance system (Level 2)
AWD = all-wheel drive (dual-engine version)
BCA = blind-spot collision avoidance assist
BEV = battery electric vehicle
BMS = battery Management System
CCS = combined charging system. Is the power inlet port of the Ioniq 5 that accepts AC (top) and DC (bottom) power. North America (CCS-1) and UK/Europe (CCS-2) have different configurations.
CHAdeMO = is an AC and DC power inlet port used commonly in Asia.
CRS = child restaint system
DAW = driver attention warning
DRL = day time running lamps (lights)
EMS = energy management system
EPB = electronic parking brake
ESC = electronic stability control
EVSE = electric vehicle supply equipment (any charging unit and often used for the charger included with the car)
FCA = forward collision-avoidance assist
GOM = guess-o-meter (display range)
HAC = hill-start assist brakes
HDA = highway driving assist
HUD = head up display (on top trims)
HVAC = heating, ventilation and air conditioning systems
ICE = internal combustion engine
ISLA = intelligent speed limit assist
J1172 = type 1 charge connector that fits into the top part of charging port in North America
kWh = kilowatt-hour
Level 1, 2, 3 charging = standard wall AC outlet, home and destination AC charges, DC fast charging
Level 2 ADAS = Ioniq 5 can control steering and accelerating/decelerating but needs a driver
LKA = lane keeping assist
MSLA = manual speed limit assist
MY = model year (MY22, MY22.5, MY23)
OBD = on board diagnostics (OBD Bluetooth dongle)
OEM = original equipment manufacturer
PCA = reverse parking collision-avoidance assist
PDW = parking distance warning
POI = point of interest (a navigation destination)
PTC = positive temperature coefficient heating element (PTC heating element) or self-regulating resistance heater. Their is a PTC heater standard on all cars for cabin heating. A different PTC heater for the EV battery is on trims that have Winter Mode and battery pre-conditioning heating.
RCCA = rear cross-traffic collision-avoidance assist
REGEN = regenerative braking, electric motor(s) become generators and recoup power that would otherwise be lost as heat from brake friction.
REGEN Level = 0, 1, 2, 3, Auto (at bottom left of display, setting for amount of regen braking)
ROA = advanced rear occupant alert
RSPA = remote smart parking assist
RVM = rear view monitor
RWD = rear-wheel drive (single engine version)
SCC = smart cruise control
SOC = state of charge for main EV battery
Supercharger = Tesla DC fast chargers
SVM = surround view monitor
TPMS = tyre (tire) pressure monitoring system
V2L = vehicle to load (power external items)
VIN = vehicle identification number
This IoniqPedia5 is updated regularly as new suggestions come along. Forum members and posts can dive deeper than here and help with other questions. Happy posting and searching.
Congratulations on your purchase or consideration of an Ioniq 5. Forums are places we come for help and for some, to vent. The Ioniq 5 is a great car and will only get better.
Happy Rolling,
IoniqPedia5
This is a constantly updated overview, answers to common questions and source for tips on the Ioniq 5. Unlike an internal combustion car, reading the manual is actually important for new EV owners and likely all-new Ioniq 5 owners. Also, you will find postings of real-world experiences by owners on YouTube much more helpful than those of car review sites.
The Search Community window at the top of any forum page is a great way to quickly access information and responses to previous posts across the Ioniq 5 Forum.
Model Years
There are several model years that differ in specs. It’s important to know the specs of your year and trim. Many You Tube videos are not clear what the spec and MY of the car is. This can lead to confusion when your car is different than theirs.
Project 45 (P45)
The first release of the Ioniq 5 in 2021 in UK and Europe. Preconditioning of the battery available by dealer update in battery heater equipped cars.
MY2022 UK and Europe
Released in UK and Europe in later part 2021 and early part 2022. Has a 72 instead of 77 KW drive battery. See your release specs. Preconditioning of the battery available by dealer update in battery heater equipped cars.
MY2022 US and Canada
Released end of 2021. Has the 77 KW drive battery. See your release specs. Battery preconditioning update available for battery heater equipped cars in US and all in Canada.
MY2022.5 UK and Europe
Released mid 2022. Has 77 KW drive battery for longe range trims. Mainly similar to MY2022 US and Canada.
See your release specs for other changes. Preconditioning of the battery available by dealer update in battery heater equipped cars. Later half of 2022 manufactured MY2022 US and Canada have battery preconditioning standard.
MY2023 World
Released later part 2022. Battery preconditioning update standard on all battery equipped cars.
Charging
- There have been different Level 1 chargers having come with cars. The majority (if not all) have settings to change the amps delivered to the car (e.g., 2, 6, 12 for 110V and 6, 8, 10 220V) visible on the front in LED lights. When first used these may default to the lowest setting that won't power the car anytime soon. This is a trickle charge and really won’t charge the battery. Look for a button on the unit to hold down to change between amp settings. Set to the maximum amps. This will provide 1.2-1.3 KWh charging with 110V and about 2.2 KWh in 220V countries. Charge rate can be determined using Current (KWh) = amps (A) X volts (V) / 1000 (W/KW).
- In 110 V countries plugging the charger into a 220 V circuit (using plug adapters), such as for washer/dryers, increases charging to 2.7 KW.
- The charger door panel opens from the FOB, by pushing the dimple area on the door, and a manual release from inside the trunk. Pushing the charger door will not work if the car has been sitting a while and off. Some find the dimple area needs to be pressed hard to open. Others have place a pad to promote contact of the door with the open button on the port.
- While charging the adapter will lock to not be removed for theft prevention. To unlock, open the doors and the adapter can be removed for a few seconds. The charge door behaviour can be altered in the car settings. Alternatively cut the power and the adapter will unlock.
- Cooling vents at the front of the car can open when charging. These will make a sound when opening and when the fan is engaged.
- The Ioniq 5 is capable of extremely fast charging. However, many Level 3 charging stations do not come near its max capacity. Also charging current varies with air temperature if the car has been just driven at high speeds and the state of charge of the battery. Generally charging current increases with higher air temperature and battery temperature (to a point) and lower the state of charge.
- The car is capable of pre-heating the battery (called battery pre-conditioning) when a level 3 charger is set as a destination in the Nav. This warms the battery when cold so once at the level 3 station charging will be faster. Most countries with cold climates are rolling out software updates to the P45, MY2022 and MY2022.5 for pre-conditioning. In US and Canada late MY2022 manufactured cars have battery preconditioning as do so MY2023. The US has rolled out battery preconditioning for early MY2022 for AWD trims ( AWD trims in US have a battery heater so can have the update). All trims in Canada have battery heating and the preconditioning update is available. See the specs for your country and trim if a battery heater is included. If you have Winter Mode in settings then you have a heater but not the preconditioning update. If the car has Pre-conditioning in settings, then the heater and update are installed. Leading to confusion the Bluelink App reports pre-conditioning as a function when your P45, MY2022 and MY2022.5 may not actually have the battery heater or update
- Snowflake symbol on driver display means battery is heating to maintain performance. A Red Coil means the battery is preconditioning (heating) to achieve optimum charge efficiency when a destination in the NAV is a charging station.
- Battery preconditioning for optimum charging only functions when a charge station is selected in the NAV, the battery is cold, and the SOC is not very low.
- It is better for the performance of the battery in the long term to usually charge up to 80%. It’s OK to charge to 100% when a greater distance is required.
- There is no best Level 2 (AC on 220V) charger for your home. Your electric provider, government, and dealer may provide a rebate. The car can accept a maximum of 11.6 KWh for level 2 charging (60 amp breaker and 48 amp continuous delivery in North America).
- You can use a Tesla home and destination charger, but you need a Tesla to the Ioniq 5 charge port adapter (e.g., for North America a Tesla to J1772 adapter). Some European Tesla Super Chargers accept the Ioniq 5.
- A loud humming noise inside the car is common when charging at Level 3 (fast DC at commercial charging stations) above 130 KWh.
Range
- The biggest issue new owners have is shock real-world range is lower than advertised. This is OK, your car is not broken.
- The range estimate on the display and in the Bluelink app is just that, an estimate to help plan when to charge. The range estimate is called a GOM, guess-o-meter. The estimate is more accurate the longer you have had the car and with consistent driving habits (acceleration, braking, speed, city, freeway), air temperature, wind speed and direction, rolling resistance of tires/tyres, carrying load, and road surface (wet, snow, gravel).
- Those in cold climates or freeway drivers will see the range estimate steadily decrease over the first weeks of driving. Your car is not broken. The car is improving its range estimate (GOM) based on the recent driving. The range estimate that came with the car was factory setting or for driving on a test in South Korea and didn't consider your climate, freeway driving and driving behaviour.
- The car has a greater range for city than freeway driving. Freeway driving has more air friction resistance and wind speed and direction is a bigger factor.
- For cars that have been driven several hundred miles/km, the GOM displays expected range based on the past outdoor temperature, city or highway driving, driving mode, regen level and driving behaviour. If your next trip varies in the above from the past, the GOM will be off, and it can be considerable for example a plunge in temperature or highway driving.
- Temperatures below -20 C/-4 F and the car will have an estimated range of almost 50% of advertised. At 25 C/77 F the range can be more than 100% of advertised.
- The faster the driving the lower the range.
- There are many driving modes for the car (Eco, Normal, Sport, Snow, i-Pedal), and regeneration settings (0, 1, 2, 3 and Auto). Eco and Snow will give the best range. The best regeneration setting varies with driving conditions and habits. It is by trial to figure out what is best for you. US and Canada late MY2022 and 2023, ECO is very sluggish compared to early MY2022 in ECO. After battery preconditioning update for early MY2022 US owners find ECO has become sluggish.
- In addition to the four regen settings of 0, 1, 2, and 3, the aggressiveness of the settings is set in the EV settings in the main display.
- Setting the climate to driver-only increases the range a bit as does not use heating and AC.
- Using heated steering and seats increases range a bit over cabin heating.
- To sum, cold winter driving range can be extended a bit by parking indoors at temps above those outdoors, preheating the car with shore power before departing, reducing cabin temp while driving, relying more on heating steering wheel and seats than vents, only driver side vent heating, reducing speed, gentle acceleration and limiting coming to a full stop. Snow mode will provide a gentle acceleration.
- Depending on your country, your trim may or may not come with a heat pump. For trims with a heat pump there is still resistive heating and AC as standard.
Dead 12 V Battery
- see Summary of 12V Battery Chatter for more detailed info on the 12 V battery and care
- The car has a 12 V battery to keep power to the computer, Bluelink system, lights, alarm, radio etc. when off. It also engages the main EV battery to allow the car to drive.
- If the 12 V battery is drained the car will not start and the doors won't open if locked. Charging the main EV battery doesn't charge a dead 12 V battery.
- to get into the car with a dead 12 V battery use the mechanical key that is in the fob, push the driver side handle in to reveal a lock under one side. Use the key (inside the fob), then pull the hood release located to the interior side of the driver like in most cars.
- once in the car, if the display shows the total mileage and that a door is open then the 12 V is not dead. Rather likely the fob battery is dead or communication with the fob is compromised. See below Fob section.
- The 12 V battery is under the hood and needs to be jumped to start the car. Jumping requires less current than a combustion vehicle. There are small portable jumping units at affordable prices.
- Some owners are finding the 12 V battery drains. This may be due to leaving lights on, accessories using power when car is not in ON or Utility modes (accessories plugged into front USB port, using the bluelink system a lot, having their car wake frequently, an issue with power draw by the charge port door, leaving the tailgate open, and power draw from the light assembly. Another reason has been an issue with the head assembly unit. Changing that has solved the issue for some.
- A big issue is having the SOC below 35%. The BMS won’t charge the 12V when below that.
- Hyundai service has a list of items to check in sequence when figuring out the issue. It can take a while for them to figure out what the issue is.
- The car will charge the 12 V from the main battery on a schedule. A BMS update to P45 and non-North American cars was rolled out to increase that charging frequency. That BMS update was standard with all cars sold in North America.
- The 12 V battery recharges from the main EV battery. A yellow light appears on the dash indicating charging.
- Having the radio and lights on in ACC (accessories) mode drains the 12 V battery. Better to place car in Utility mode that uses the main EV battery
- Power is on to the USB port next to the 12V socket even when the vehicle is off. An accessory plugged into that port may cause a drain. Other ports are only powered when the car is in On/ignition mode (perhaps Utility mode as well?).
- P45 and MY2022 UK and Europe require a BMS software update by the dealer to more frequently charge the 12V battery. The update is standard on MY2022 US and Canada and MY2022.5.
Fob Issue
- if the fob battery is low or there is a communication problem with it to the car, use the mechanical key in the fOB to open the doors
- tap and push Fob to the Start Button to start the car if the Fob battery is dead
- you will know it is a fob/communication issue rather than 12V battery issue if the driver display is active
- Fob has an indicator light when buttons pressed and battery is fine. If indicator is working then likely a communication issue. Tapping the Fob to push in Start may establish communication again.
- a CR2023 round battery is inside the fob and can be replaced
Infotainment and Bluelink App
- Older software versions had the infotainment system lacking delivery of information and album art for radio and XM.
- The navigation system is handy but also very bad for accuracy. Nav may be getting better with each update. Check that the destination location and routes shown on the display map seem reasonable.
- If your Bluelink app allows, backup the car settings in case the car loses them.
- There is no wireless CarPlay (perhaps Android Car) as well, needs to be plugged into the front USB port above the floor.
- The Bluelink app can be very sluggish in some countries. The app features also differ between countries.
- Infotainment and navigation software updates are available spring and fall each year. It can be downloaded at Official Hyundai Motors Navigation Update Website. You will need to set up an account. Download an installer to you computer. Have a 64 GB memory stick. The stick shouldn’t have anything on you want to keep, the stick is formatted when the installer downloads the upload to it. Download the update directly to the stick, not the computer. Place stick into USB port by 12V socket and the screen will activate to start the installation.
- Voice commands are available. For USA list see User's Manual Other countries lists available. Press the Voice Command Button on the left side of the steering wheel (profile of talking man) and then say the command exactly.
- Here are some popular voice commands
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V2L
- Exterior V2L to power external things such as needed for camping is standard on all trims. However, you need to purchase a V2L power adapter to plug into the charging port and a power cord into it. Check your country Hyundai accessories store, not cheap.
- Interior V2L to power external things does not come with all trims. In North America it comes with the Ultimate (Canada) or Limited (USA) package. A setting needs to be selected to use exterior or interior V2L.
Other
- The stock wipers are very poor, you probably want to buy better ones, especially for cold winter climates. To change wipers turn car off, flick wiper controller up. Wipers will move to vertical position. Wipers are standard J snap ones. Turn car on and flick wiper controller up to bring wipers to resting position.
- There is no rear wiper and it was intended that way. Yes it does need a rear wiper.
- The rear camera lens gets dirty fast.
- The frunk for North American RWD models is small and the same as the AWD version. This is not a mistake. The larger frunk as elsewhere is not allowed in the USA without an internal emergency release or internal partitions. Hyundai opted against those. Canada got pulled along. Some owners have been trying to buy the larger frunk from other countries.
- the rattle you hear in the back is likely the tow eye-bolt moving around below the trunk, the seat belt inserts hitting the plastic of the interior or a poor fitting trunk. Flip the seat belt around so the cloth backing hits the interior of the car. Yes, it needs to be checked every time someone uses the back seats. Some have stuck felt to the interior. The eyebolt can be put into the tire inflation kit. The trunk can be adjusted to sit better, extend rubber pad or some have added pads.
- The driving mode does not come back to Auto when starting the car.
- You can put 18” rims on the car for winter tires, just make sure the whole wheel plus tire radius is to spec for the car. Search for wheel specs.
- The car recognizes tire pressure sensors (TPMS) automatically. Just drive the car and after a few minutes you will see the pressure readings on the display. At least this works for the Hyundai recommended TPMS.
- The auto steer is not perfect. Works better on clear well marked freeways. Watch out for merge and divergent lanes as the car try to veer off course. The HDA2 that comes with the top trim works on only certain roadways.
- You may hit the toggle switches on the steering wheel when turning.
- Check the manual for procedures to allow the car to stay in neutral when through a car wash (driver in or out of car).
- new cars may come with a wobble to the drive at high speeds. These are artifacts of shipping where tire pressure is increased and the cars are strapped down for security. Strapping can miss shape the tires. Some cars have been delivered without adjustment of the tyre pressures by the dealer.
- It can be hard to see the setting buttons on the front of the dash below the centre infotainment display in bright sunshine. There is a brightness wheel to the side of the steering wheel but it doesn’t help.
- If your trim is so equipped, set side mirror toggle in L or R position to have mirrors tilt down when reversing.
- If your trim is so equipped, folding side mirrors by pressing the button requires pressing it again on startup to unfold.
- If your trim is so equipped wit auto-foldingng side mirrors, folding them in manually requires them to be also folded out manually. Interior folding button will not work.
- Some have found the dealer is required to correctly position the headlight directions.
- Heat and AC will not work in Accessories mode.
- The upright small area of dash to the exterior side of steering wheel can hold a magnet. Some have used it to place phone or photos.
- When placing in P on sloped ground the car may lurch back 5 cm or an inch or two. Engaging the electric parking brake prevents the movement.
- You can find Ioniq 5 accessories available in your country by going to your country Hyundai website.
- Wait times for ordered cars is extremely long (2 years is common), particularly for top trim AWD versions. You also will not hear often from Hyundai about your order. There are component shortages in manufacturing. The model year 2023 (MY23) may have features changed from the mid-year 2022 (MY22.5) because of component sourcing issues. By the way, what model year you have or will receive is a bit confusing.
- Those who have ordered an Ioniq 5 have likely also ordered other EV cars. Chances are your order position will improve as others decline a car because of having gotten a different EV.
- In some countries dealerships are asking above manufacturer’s suggested retail price.
- You can easily remove the IONIQ 5 white decal letters at the back of the car.
- Changing the trim level on an order has resulted in later placement in the build queue.
Common Abbreviations
ACC = adoptive cruise control
ACC = accessories mode (car uses 12 V battery for lights, infotainment etc.)
ADAS = advanced (or autonomous) driver assistance system (Level 2)
AWD = all-wheel drive (dual-engine version)
BCA = blind-spot collision avoidance assist
BEV = battery electric vehicle
BMS = battery Management System
CCS = combined charging system. Is the power inlet port of the Ioniq 5 that accepts AC (top) and DC (bottom) power. North America (CCS-1) and UK/Europe (CCS-2) have different configurations.
CHAdeMO = is an AC and DC power inlet port used commonly in Asia.
CRS = child restaint system
DAW = driver attention warning
DRL = day time running lamps (lights)
EMS = energy management system
EPB = electronic parking brake
ESC = electronic stability control
EVSE = electric vehicle supply equipment (any charging unit and often used for the charger included with the car)
FCA = forward collision-avoidance assist
GOM = guess-o-meter (display range)
HAC = hill-start assist brakes
HDA = highway driving assist
HUD = head up display (on top trims)
HVAC = heating, ventilation and air conditioning systems
ICE = internal combustion engine
ISLA = intelligent speed limit assist
J1172 = type 1 charge connector that fits into the top part of charging port in North America
kWh = kilowatt-hour
Level 1, 2, 3 charging = standard wall AC outlet, home and destination AC charges, DC fast charging
Level 2 ADAS = Ioniq 5 can control steering and accelerating/decelerating but needs a driver
LKA = lane keeping assist
MSLA = manual speed limit assist
MY = model year (MY22, MY22.5, MY23)
OBD = on board diagnostics (OBD Bluetooth dongle)
OEM = original equipment manufacturer
PCA = reverse parking collision-avoidance assist
PDW = parking distance warning
POI = point of interest (a navigation destination)
PTC = positive temperature coefficient heating element (PTC heating element) or self-regulating resistance heater. Their is a PTC heater standard on all cars for cabin heating. A different PTC heater for the EV battery is on trims that have Winter Mode and battery pre-conditioning heating.
RCCA = rear cross-traffic collision-avoidance assist
REGEN = regenerative braking, electric motor(s) become generators and recoup power that would otherwise be lost as heat from brake friction.
REGEN Level = 0, 1, 2, 3, Auto (at bottom left of display, setting for amount of regen braking)
ROA = advanced rear occupant alert
RSPA = remote smart parking assist
RVM = rear view monitor
RWD = rear-wheel drive (single engine version)
SCC = smart cruise control
SOC = state of charge for main EV battery
Supercharger = Tesla DC fast chargers
SVM = surround view monitor
TPMS = tyre (tire) pressure monitoring system
V2L = vehicle to load (power external items)
VIN = vehicle identification number
This IoniqPedia5 is updated regularly as new suggestions come along. Forum members and posts can dive deeper than here and help with other questions. Happy posting and searching.
Congratulations on your purchase or consideration of an Ioniq 5. Forums are places we come for help and for some, to vent. The Ioniq 5 is a great car and will only get better.
Happy Rolling,
IoniqPedia5
