Even as an owner and enthousiast I've learned a few things here. Thank you! 🙏

 

This is a primer This is a primer sticky for new Ioniq 5 owners giving hopefully helpful advice and tips to questions. Unlike an internal combustion car, reading the manual is actually important for new EV owners and likely all new Ioniq 5 owners. Also you will find postings of real-world experience with the car on YouTube much more helpful than car review sites.


Charging

- The Level 1 charger that comes with the car has three current settings (2, 6, 12) visible on the front in LED lights. When first used it defaults to setting 2. This is a trickle charge and really won’t charge the battery. Hold the black button on the right of the front panel to change between settings. Set to maximum which is 12. This will provide 1.2-1.3 KWh charging

- The charger door panel opens from the FOB, by pushing on the door, and a manual release from inside the trunk. Pushing the charger door will not work if the car has been sitting a while and off

- The Ioniq 5 is capable of extremely fast charging. However many Level 3 charging stations do not come near its max capacity. Also charging current varies with air temperature, if the car has been just driven at high speeds, and the state of charge of the battery. Generally charging current increases with higher air temperature and battery temperature (to a point) and lower the state of charge.

- The car is capable of heating the battery to increase charging speed but this requires a software update from Hyundai to really work as promised. For now, heating will happen if plugged into a Level 3 charger and it takes a while for the temperature to come to optimum. An update is to allow heating before reaching a charging destination.

- It is better for the performance of the battery in the long term to usually charge up to 80%. It’s OK to charge to 100% when greater distance is required.

- There is no best level 2 charger for your home. The car can accept a maximum of 11.6 KWh for level 2 charging (60 amp breaker and 48 amp delivery).



Range

- the biggest issue new owners have is shock real-world range is lower than advertised. This is OK, your car is not broken.

- the range estimate on the display and in the Bluelink app is just that, an estimate. The estimate is more accurate the longer you have had the car and with consistent driving habits (acceleration, braking, speed, city, freeway).

- the car has a greater range for city than freeway driving. Freeway driving has more air friction resistance.

- the faster the driving the lower the range.

- there are many driving modes for the car (Eco, Normal, Sport, Snow, i-Pedal), and regeneration settings (0, 1, 2, 3 and Auto). Eco and Snow will give the best range. Best regeneration setting varies with driving conditions and habitats. It is by trial to figure out what is best for you.

- setting climate to driver-only increases range a bit as does not using heat and AC

- using heated steering and seats increases range a bit over cabin heating


Dead 12 V Battery

- yes the car has a 12 V battery to keep power to the computer, bluelink system, lights, alarm, radio etc. when off.

- If the 12 V battery is drained the car will not start and the doors won't open if locked.

- to get into the car with a dead 12 V battery use the mechanical key that is in the FOB, push the driver side handle in to reveal a lock under one side. Use the key, then pull the hood release located to the interior side of the driver like in most cars.

- The 12 V battery is under the hood and needs to be jumped to start the car.

- some owners are finding the 12 V battery drains. This may be due to leaving lights on and the bluelink system activating a lot.

- the 12 V battery recharges from the main EV battery when the car is in the On/ignition mode. A yellow light appears on the dash indicating charging.




Others

- the stock wipers are very poor, you probably want to buy better ones, especially for cold winter climates

- there is no rear wiper and it was intended that way. Yes it does need a rear wiper.

- Yes the rear camera lens gets dirty fast.

- yes the frunk for North American RWD models is small and the same as the AWD version. This is not a mistake. The larger frunk as elsewhere is not allowed in the USA without an internal emergency release of partitions. Hyundai opted against those.

- the rattle you here in the back is likely the tow eye-bolt moving around below the trunk or the seat belt insert hitting plastic of the interior. Flip the seat belt around so the cloth backing hits the interior of the car. Yes it needs to be checked every time someone uses the back seats. Some have stuck felt to the interior.

- Yes the infotainment system lacks delivery of information and album art for radio and XM.

- Yes the driving mode does not come back to Auto when starting the car.

- Exterior V2L to power external things such needed for camping is standard on all trims. However, you need to purchase a V2L power adapter to plug into the charging port and a power cord into it.

- Interior V2L to power external things does not come with all trims. In North America it comes with the Ultimate (Canada) or SEL (USA) package. A setting needs to be selected to use exterior or interior V2L.

- yes you can put 18” rims on the car, just make sure the whole wheel plus tire radius is to spec for the car.

- the car recognizes tire pressure sensors (TPMS) automattically. Just drive the car and after a few minutes you will see the pressure readings on the display. At least this works for the Hyundai recommended TPMS.

- the auto steer is not perfect. Works better on clear well defined freeways. Watch out for merge and divergent lanes as the car try to veer off course.

- Yes you will hit the toggle switches on the steering wheel when turning.

- you can find Ioniq 5 accessories available in your country by going to your country Hyundai website.

- yes wait times for ordered cars is extremely long, particularly for top trim AWD versions. You also will not hear often from Hyundai about your order. There are component shortages in manufacturing.



Congratulations on you new car or consideration of an Ioniq 5. It is a great car.


Congratulations on you new car or consideration of an Ioniq 5. It is a great car.

Excellent!!

 

Would add to the 12V section, to not use the 'ACC' mode as that drains the 12v battery. When learning the car (i.e. inside and not driving), select the "utility" mode in the EV section (gear icon), or start the car with your foot on the brake pedal

Oh and check the pressure of your tires. I found mine set to 40 psi, when for the ultimate they should be at 34 psi. Supposedly they are shipped with high pressure to avoid the tire deforming. Depending on dealer, they may check or not before delivery to you ...

 

-For the side view mirror to tilt down when reversing, leave the lever in either L or R position. Leaving it in "Neutral" will keep the mirrors horizontal when backing up.

-Take a backup of your settings using the Bluelink app (depending on market). The car might erase your settings randomly.

-OBDII(On Board Diagnostic 2) dongle is a good gadget to buy if you want to deep dive into your car's info. There are multiple threads on this forum, and videos on youtube to explain the how's and why's.

edit:
-If you're anxious for the 12V battery to deplete, buy one of these (or similar):

Palumma 24W/4.8A Dual USB Car Charger, 12V to USB Outlet with Cigarette Lighter Voltage Meter LED/LCD Display Battery Low Voltage Warning (Black) : Everything Else

Buy Palumma 24W/4.8A Dual USB Car Charger, 12V to USB Outlet with Cigarette Lighter Voltage Meter LED/LCD Display Battery Low Voltage Warning (Black): Everything Else - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

 

Thanks for this! Some items I'd propose to add:

- Rattle from the rear. Another possible source is slight play or misalignment in the various bump stops for the hatch, which can result in the same squeak/cluck that plagued so many Kia Stingers. In the case of the stinger, a common solution was to add washers to the inset of some of the wedge-shaped stops. This isn't really an option on the I5 (well, mine at least) since those wedges have no recesses. Instead I found this effective, at least for the week I've had it on:

Purchased here: foam pads. They are pretty inexpensive so even if they don't last, one pack of these should last a while.

- Pre-purchase inspection. Ask a service advisor or manager to confirm that the headlights have been properly aimed, which apparently involves dealer-specific equipment

- Charging tip for first timers. If the cable lock function is enabled, to remove the cable from the charging port, it will be necessary to unlock the car and pull out the cable within a few seconds. After a brief time, the cable lock will engage even if the doors are still unlocked.

 

Thanks for this! Some items I'd propose to add:

- Rattle from the rear. Another possible source is slight play or misalignment in the various bump stops for the hatch, which can result in the same squeak/cluck that plagued so many Kia Stingers. In the case of the stinger, a common solution was to add washers to the inset of some of the wedge-shaped stops. This isn't really an option on the I5 (well, mine at least) since those wedges have no recesses. Instead I found this effective, at least for the week I've had it on:

View attachment 41448

Purchased here: foam pads. They are pretty inexpensive so even if they don't last, one pack of these should last a while.

- Pre-purchase inspection. Ask a service advisor or manager to confirm that the headlights have been properly aimed, which apparently involves dealer-specific equipment

- Charging tip for first timers. If the cable lock function is enabled, to remove the cable from the charging port, it will be necessary to unlock the car and pull out the cable within a few seconds. After a brief time, the cable lock will engage even if the doors are still unlocked.

If this is where I think it is, the part on the hatch is adjustable by screwing/unscrewing.
Try unscrewing it (for a bit greater length).
That improved the fit on my hatch, and stopped the rattling.

 

Interior V2L to power external things does not come with all trims. In North America it comes with the Ultimate (Canada) or SEL (USA) package. A setting needs to be selected to use exterior or interior V2L.

Wait.. sel does come with interior v2l?

 

thanks for spotting that. It is the Limited in USA

 

Thanks for this great list, I also learned things a month after buying!

One thing I would add, which maybe you all are aware of, but I just learned from one of the Ioniq Guy's youtube videos, is that some local power companies offer rebates on the purchase of your home Level 2 charger, but in the case of our power company (PNM), it had to be one from a certain list of approved ones. We had just bought a ChargePoint homeflex and much to my happy surprise we got $300 back on it by filing for the rebate with PNM. There wasn't any obvious advertising of this perk anywhere, you had to know to go look for it. Maybe this is too U.S. specific to go on your list, but I'd consider adding to your bullet, "There is no best level 2 charger for your home": "Check to see if your local power company offers rebates on a home level 2 charger because you might want to choose one from the list of approved ones".

 

Thanks for this great list, I also learned things a month after buying!

One thing I would add, which maybe you all are aware of, but I just learned from one of the Ioniq Guy's youtube videos, is that some local power companies offer rebates on the purchase of your home Level 2 charger, but in the case of our power company (PNM), it had to be one from a certain list of approved ones. We had just bought a ChargePoint homeflex and much to my happy surprise we got $300 back on it by filing for the rebate with PNM. There wasn't any obvious advertising of this perk anywhere, you had to know to go look for it. Maybe this is too U.S. specific to go on your list, but I'd consider adding to your bullet, "There is no best level 2 charger for your home": "Check to see if your local power company offers rebates on a home level 2 charger because you might want to choose one from the list of approved ones".

In Connecticut, Eversourse offers a $500 rebate for approved chargers and $500 for wiring upgrades. Thanks for the tip! Eversource CT Charging Station Rebates. BTW, I have the Wallbox Pulsar Plus 48A and a full charge from 5% took about 7 hrs. Don't ask how it got to 5%, a mistake in judgement on my part and a nearly catistrophic outcome LOL!

Ugh, the Wallbox is not on the approved charger list . Plus, you have to enroll in a "managed charging program" to qualify for the rebate.

 

yes the Bluelink can be very sluggish. The app features also differ between countries.

That's an understatement and a half! Canadian version seems near-useless. The status doesn't refresh (the refresh symbol has it spin for a while, then error out), I have honestly not been able to get a single feature of the app to function.

Frustrating since the UI and layout is so nice, but nothing seems to work. As I type this, my "status" is last reported yesterday afternoon at 4pm.

 

I can understand your frustration. For me the basic functionality works such as locking, checking charge status, changing charge limit, even scheduling and setting climate and charging. It is annoying that the app keeps giving notifications to my phone though I cannot see why it is contacting me. I think it is when the doors are unlocked. I assume cell service to your car is decent.

 

Cell service is fine, it's just... not working.

Coming from BMW, their app just "works"... send a destination to the car, unlock doors, etc. Seeing the UI and layout of the app, I was excited to try it, but so far, our experience has been that the BlueLink app is un-useable.

 

I would think Hyundai Canada is able to check it can communicate with the car by BlueLink. That would at least rule out the Bluelink function is working in the car.

 

This is a primer for new Ioniq 5 owners giving hopefully helpful advice and tips to questions. Unlike an internal combustion car, reading the manual is actually important for new EV owners and likely all-new Ioniq 5 owners. Also, you will find postings of real-world experiences with the car on YouTube much more helpful than on car review sites.

The Search Community window at the top of any forum page is a great way to quickly find answers to your questions.


Charging
- The Level 1 charger that comes with the car has three current settings (2, 6, 12) visible on the front in LED lights. When first used it defaults to setting 2. This is a trickle charge and really won’t charge the battery. Hold the black button on the right of the front panel to change between settings. Set to the maximum which is 12. This will provide 1.2-1.3 KWh charging

- The charger door panel opens from the FOB, by pushing on the door, and a manual release from inside the trunk. Pushing the charger door will not work if the car has been sitting a while and off.

- While charging the adapter will lock to not be removed for theft prevention. To unlock, open the doors and the adapter can be removed for a few seconds. Alternatively cut the power and the adapter will unlock.

- The Ioniq 5 is capable of extremely fast charging. However, many Level 3 charging stations do not come near its max capacity. Also charging current varies with air temperature if the car has been just driven at high speeds and the state of charge of the battery. Generally charging current increases with higher air temperature and battery temperature (to a point) and lower the state of charge.

- The car is capable of heating the battery to increase charging speed, but this requires a software update from Hyundai to really work as promised. For now, heating will happen if plugged into a Level 3 charger and it takes a while for the temperature to come to the optimum. An update is to allow heating before reaching a charging destination.

- It is better for the performance of the battery in the long term to usually charge up to 80%. It’s OK to charge to 100% when a greater distance is required.

- There is no best level 2 charger for your home. Your electric provider, government, and dealer may provide a rebate. The car can accept a maximum of 11.6 KWh for level 2 charging (60 amp breaker and 48 amp continuous delivery in North America).

- you can use a Tesla home and destination charger, but you need a Tesla to the Ioniq 5 charge port adapter (e.g., for North America a Tesla to J1772 adapter). You can not charge yet at a Tesla Supercharger.


Range
- the biggest issue new owners have is shock real-world range is lower than advertised. This is OK, your car is not broken.

- the range estimate on the display and in the Bluelink app is just that, an estimate to help plan when to charge. The estimate is more accurate the longer you have had the car and with consistent driving habits (acceleration, braking, speed, city, freeway), road surface, air temperature, wind speed and wind direction.

- the car has a greater range for city than freeway driving. Freeway driving has more air friction resistance and wind speed and direction is a bigger factor.

- temperatures below -20 C/-4 F and the car will have an estimated range of almost 50% of advertised. At 25 C/77 F the range can be more than 100% of advertised.

- the faster the driving the lower the range.

- there are many driving modes for the car (Eco, Normal, Sport, Snow, i-Pedal), and regeneration settings (0, 1, 2, 3 and Auto). Eco and Snow will give the best range. The best regeneration setting varies with driving conditions and habitats. It is by trial to figure out what is best for you.

- setting the climate to driver-only increases the range a bit as it does not use heat and AC.

- using heated steering and seats increases range a bit over cabin heating.

- depending on your country, your trim may or may not come with a heat pump. For trims with a heat pump there is still resistive heating as well.


Dead 12 V Battery
- yes the car has a 12 V battery to keep power to the computer, bluelink system, lights, alarm, radio etc. when off.

- If the 12 V battery is drained the car will not start and the doors won't open if locked.

- to get into the car with a dead 12 V battery use the mechanical key that is in the FOB, push the driver side handle in to reveal a lock under one side. Use the key, then pull the hood release located to the interior side of the driver like in most cars.

- The 12 V battery is under the hood and needs to be jumped to start the car. Jumping requires less current than a combustion vehicle. There are small portable jumping units at affordable prices.

- some owners are finding the 12 V battery drains. This may be due to leaving lights on and the bluelink system activating a lot. For some the car needed servicing to fix.

- the 12 V battery recharges from the main EV battery when the car is in the On/ignition mode. A yellow light appears on the dash indicating charging.

- having the radio and lights on in ACC (accessories) mode drains the 12 V battery. Better to place car in Utility mode that uses the main EV battery

- power is always on to the USB port and 12V socket below the centre dash above the floor. Other ports are only powered when the car is in On/ignition mode (perhaps Utility mode as well).


Infotainment and Bluelink App
- Yes the infotainment system lacks delivery of information and album art for radio and XM.

- Yes the navigation system is very bad. Check that the destination location and routes shown on the display map seem reasonable.

- if your Bluelink app allows, backup the car settings in case the car loses them.

- there is no wireless CarPlay (perhaps AndroidPlay) as well, needs to be plugged into the front USB port above the floor.

- yes the Bluelink can be very sluggish. The app features also differ between countries.


V2L
- Exterior V2L to power external things such needed for camping is standard on all trims. However, you need to purchase a V2L power adapter to plug into the charging port and a power cord into it.

- Interior V2L to power external things does not come with all trims. In North America it comes with the Ultimate (Canada) or Limited (USA) package. A setting needs to be selected to use exterior or interior V2L.


Other
- the stock wipers are very poor, you probably want to buy better ones, especially for cold winter climates

- there is no rear wiper and it was intended that way. Yes it does need a rear wiper.

- Yes the rear camera lens gets dirty fast.

- yes the frunk for North American RWD models is small and the same as the AWD version. This is not a mistake. The larger frunk as elsewhere is not allowed in the USA without an internal emergency release or partitions. Hyundai opted against those. Canada got pulled along.

- the rattle you hear in the back is likely the tow eye-bolt moving around below the trunk, the seat belt inserts hitting the plastic of the interior or a poor fitting trunk. Flip the seat belt around so the cloth backing hits the interior of the car. Yes, it needs to be checked every time someone uses the back seats. Some have stuck felt to the interior. The eyebolt can be put into the tire inflation kit. The trunk can be adjusted to sit better or some have added pads.

- Yes the driving mode does not come back to Auto when starting the car.

- yes you can put 18” rims on the car, just make sure the whole wheel plus tire radius is to spec for the car.

- the car recognizes tire pressure sensors (TPMS) automatically. Just drive the car and after a few minutes you will see the pressure readings on the display. At least this works for the Hyundai recommended TPMS.

- the auto steer is not perfect. Works better on clear well marked freeways. Watch out for merge and divergent lanes as the car try to veer off course.

- Yes you will hit the toggle switches on the steering wheel when turning.

- new cars may come with a wobble to the drive at high speeds or with excessive-high tire pressure (e.g., 40 psi instead of 34). These are artifacts of shipping where tire pressure is increased and the cars are strapped down for security. Strapping can miss shape the tires.

- yes it is hard to see the setting buttons on the dash below the centre infotainment display in bright sunshine. There is a brightness wheel to the side of the steering wheel but it doesn’t help.

- if your trim is so equipped, set side mirror toggle in L or R position to have mirrors tilt down when reversing.

- some have found the dealer is required to correctly position the headlight directions.

- you can find Ioniq 5 accessories available in your country by going to your country Hyundai website.

- yes wait times for ordered cars is extremely long, particularly for top trim AWD versions. You also will not hear often from Hyundai about your order. There are component shortages in manufacturing. The model year 2023 (MY23) may have features changed from the mid-year 2022 (MY22.5) because of component sourcing issues.

- you can easily remove the IONIQ 5 white decal letters at the back of the car.

- changing the trim level on an order has resulted in later placement in the build queue.


Abbreviations
AWD = all-wheel drive (dual-engine version)
BEV = battery electric vehicle
CCS = combined charging system. Is the power inlet port of the Ioniq 5 that accepts AC (top) and DC (bottom) power
EMS = energy management system
EVSE = electric vehicle supply equipment (any charging unit and often used for the charger included with the car)
GOM = guess-o-meter (display range)
HVAC = heating, ventilation and air conditioning systems
ICE = internal combustion engine
J1172 = type 1 charge connector that fits into the top part of charging port in North America
kWh = kilowatt-hour
Level 1, 2, 3 charging = standard wall AC outlet, home and destination AC charges, DC fast charging
REGEN = regenerative braking. The electric motor(s) become generators and recoup power that would otherwise be lost as heat from brake friction.
RWD = rear-wheel drive (single engine version)
SOC = state of charge for main EV battery
Supercharger = Tesla DC fast chargers
V2L = vehicle to load (power external items)

This primer is updated regularly as new suggestions come along.

Congratulations on your new car or consideration of an Ioniq 5. It is a great car.

Add that the V2L exterior adapter is not weather proof. There are some posts in this forum of folks taking it apart, and designing a weatherproof rubber covering

 

Is this the issue of ice forming at the adapter connection to charging port or is it inside the adapter itself? thanks

 

This is a primer for new Ioniq 5 owners giving hopefully helpful advice and tips to questions. Unlike an internal combustion car, reading the manual is actually important for new EV owners and likely all-new Ioniq 5 owners. Also, you will find postings of real-world experiences with the car on YouTube much more helpful than on car review sites.

The Search Community window at the top of any forum page is a great way to quickly find answers to your questions.


Charging
- The Level 1 charger that comes with the car has three current settings (2, 6, 12) visible on the front in LED lights. When first used it defaults to setting 2. This is a trickle charge and really won’t charge the battery. Hold the black button on the right of the front panel to change between settings. Set to the maximum which is 12. This will provide 1.2-1.3 KWh charging

- The charger door panel opens from the FOB, by pushing on the door, and a manual release from inside the trunk. Pushing the charger door will not work if the car has been sitting a while and off.

- While charging the adapter will lock to not be removed for theft prevention. To unlock, open the doors and the adapter can be removed for a few seconds. Alternatively cut the power and the adapter will unlock.

- The Ioniq 5 is capable of extremely fast charging. However, many Level 3 charging stations do not come near its max capacity. Also charging current varies with air temperature if the car has been just driven at high speeds and the state of charge of the battery. Generally charging current increases with higher air temperature and battery temperature (to a point) and lower the state of charge.

- The car is capable of heating the battery to increase charging speed, but this requires a software update from Hyundai to really work as promised. For now, heating will happen if plugged into a Level 3 charger and it takes a while for the temperature to come to the optimum. An update is to allow heating before reaching a charging destination.

- It is better for the performance of the battery in the long term to usually charge up to 80%. It’s OK to charge to 100% when a greater distance is required.

- There is no best level 2 charger for your home. Your electric provider, government, and dealer may provide a rebate. The car can accept a maximum of 11.6 KWh for level 2 charging (60 amp breaker and 48 amp continuous delivery in North America).

- you can use a Tesla home and destination charger, but you need a Tesla to the Ioniq 5 charge port adapter (e.g., for North America a Tesla to J1772 adapter). You can not charge yet at a Tesla Supercharger.


Range
- the biggest issue new owners have is shock real-world range is lower than advertised. This is OK, your car is not broken.

- the range estimate on the display and in the Bluelink app is just that, an estimate to help plan when to charge. The estimate is more accurate the longer you have had the car and with consistent driving habits (acceleration, braking, speed, city, freeway), road surface, air temperature, wind speed and wind direction.

- the car has a greater range for city than freeway driving. Freeway driving has more air friction resistance and wind speed and direction is a bigger factor.

- temperatures below -20 C/-4 F and the car will have an estimated range of almost 50% of advertised. At 25 C/77 F the range can be more than 100% of advertised.

- the faster the driving the lower the range.

- there are many driving modes for the car (Eco, Normal, Sport, Snow, i-Pedal), and regeneration settings (0, 1, 2, 3 and Auto). Eco and Snow will give the best range. The best regeneration setting varies with driving conditions and habitats. It is by trial to figure out what is best for you.

- setting the climate to driver-only increases the range a bit as it does not use heat and AC.

- using heated steering and seats increases range a bit over cabin heating.

- depending on your country, your trim may or may not come with a heat pump. For trims with a heat pump there is still resistive heating as well.


Dead 12 V Battery
- yes the car has a 12 V battery to keep power to the computer, bluelink system, lights, alarm, radio etc. when off.

- If the 12 V battery is drained the car will not start and the doors won't open if locked.

- to get into the car with a dead 12 V battery use the mechanical key that is in the FOB, push the driver side handle in to reveal a lock under one side. Use the key, then pull the hood release located to the interior side of the driver like in most cars.

- The 12 V battery is under the hood and needs to be jumped to start the car. Jumping requires less current than a combustion vehicle. There are small portable jumping units at affordable prices.

- some owners are finding the 12 V battery drains. This may be due to leaving lights on and the bluelink system activating a lot. For some the car needed servicing to fix.

- the 12 V battery recharges from the main EV battery when the car is in the On/ignition mode. A yellow light appears on the dash indicating charging.

- having the radio and lights on in ACC (accessories) mode drains the 12 V battery. Better to place car in Utility mode that uses the main EV battery

- power is always on to the USB port and 12V socket below the centre dash above the floor. Other ports are only powered when the car is in On/ignition mode (perhaps Utility mode as well).


Infotainment and Bluelink App
- Yes the infotainment system lacks delivery of information and album art for radio and XM.

- Yes the navigation system is very bad. Check that the destination location and routes shown on the display map seem reasonable.

- if your Bluelink app allows, backup the car settings in case the car loses them.

- there is no wireless CarPlay (perhaps AndroidPlay) as well, needs to be plugged into the front USB port above the floor.

- yes the Bluelink can be very sluggish. The app features also differ between countries.


V2L
- Exterior V2L to power external things such needed for camping is standard on all trims. However, you need to purchase a V2L power adapter to plug into the charging port and a power cord into it.

- Interior V2L to power external things does not come with all trims. In North America it comes with the Ultimate (Canada) or Limited (USA) package. A setting needs to be selected to use exterior or interior V2L.


Other
- the stock wipers are very poor, you probably want to buy better ones, especially for cold winter climates

- there is no rear wiper and it was intended that way. Yes it does need a rear wiper.

- Yes the rear camera lens gets dirty fast.

- yes the frunk for North American RWD models is small and the same as the AWD version. This is not a mistake. The larger frunk as elsewhere is not allowed in the USA without an internal emergency release or partitions. Hyundai opted against those. Canada got pulled along.

- the rattle you hear in the back is likely the tow eye-bolt moving around below the trunk, the seat belt inserts hitting the plastic of the interior or a poor fitting trunk. Flip the seat belt around so the cloth backing hits the interior of the car. Yes, it needs to be checked every time someone uses the back seats. Some have stuck felt to the interior. The eyebolt can be put into the tire inflation kit. The trunk can be adjusted to sit better or some have added pads.

- Yes the driving mode does not come back to Auto when starting the car.

- yes you can put 18” rims on the car, just make sure the whole wheel plus tire radius is to spec for the car.

- the car recognizes tire pressure sensors (TPMS) automatically. Just drive the car and after a few minutes you will see the pressure readings on the display. At least this works for the Hyundai recommended TPMS.

- the auto steer is not perfect. Works better on clear well marked freeways. Watch out for merge and divergent lanes as the car try to veer off course.

- Yes you will hit the toggle switches on the steering wheel when turning.

- new cars may come with a wobble to the drive at high speeds or with excessive-high tire pressure (e.g., 40 psi instead of 34). These are artifacts of shipping where tire pressure is increased and the cars are strapped down for security. Strapping can miss shape the tires.

- yes it is hard to see the setting buttons on the dash below the centre infotainment display in bright sunshine. There is a brightness wheel to the side of the steering wheel but it doesn’t help.

- if your trim is so equipped, set side mirror toggle in L or R position to have mirrors tilt down when reversing.

- some have found the dealer is required to correctly position the headlight directions.

- you can find Ioniq 5 accessories available in your country by going to your country Hyundai website.

- yes wait times for ordered cars is extremely long, particularly for top trim AWD versions. You also will not hear often from Hyundai about your order. There are component shortages in manufacturing. The model year 2023 (MY23) may have features changed from the mid-year 2022 (MY22.5) because of component sourcing issues.

- you can easily remove the IONIQ 5 white decal letters at the back of the car.

- changing the trim level on an order has resulted in later placement in the build queue.


Abbreviations
AWD = all-wheel drive (dual-engine version)
BEV = battery electric vehicle
CCS = combined charging system. Is the power inlet port of the Ioniq 5 that accepts AC (top) and DC (bottom) power
EMS = energy management system
EVSE = electric vehicle supply equipment (any charging unit and often used for the charger included with the car)
GOM = guess-o-meter (display range)
HVAC = heating, ventilation and air conditioning systems
ICE = internal combustion engine
J1172 = type 1 charge connector that fits into the top part of charging port in North America
kWh = kilowatt-hour
Level 1, 2, 3 charging = standard wall AC outlet, home and destination AC charges, DC fast charging
REGEN = regenerative braking. The electric motor(s) become generators and recoup power that would otherwise be lost as heat from brake friction.
RWD = rear-wheel drive (single engine version)
SOC = state of charge for main EV battery
Supercharger = Tesla DC fast chargers
V2L = vehicle to load (power external items)

This primer is updated regularly as new suggestions come along.

Congratulations on your new car or consideration of an Ioniq 5. It is a great car.

Nice job! I have a suggestion. The part where you talked about using the search function in the beginning. Can you increase the font size, bold it, and change it to a bright color (red maybe)? I can see people just glancing past that and not registering it in their heads. By making it stand out a bit, people will see it easily and hopefully they use the search button.

 

I don't get why people are so obsessed about wasting people's time by saying go search for it it's been talked about before. This is a forum. You know what it thrives off? Posts and replies. People come to ask questions. You think all questions haven't been answered before? What happens when everyone uses the search and no one asks anything? Forum dies and turns into a wiki. Please let's all get off out high horses and help answer questions that people have. If you don't want to answer it then move on. There's tens of people who may want to answer.

 

If there has been (annoyingly) too many threads out there already with the same answer in all of them, then "go search" is a legitimate answer whether you like it or not. As you said, this forum thrives off replies as well.

 

- the 12 V battery recharges from the main EV battery when the car is in the On/ignition mode. A yellow light appears on the dash indicating charging.
------------------------------------------------
Here is my understanding of this behavior of the 2022 I5 sold in US: The yellow dash light indicating that the 12v battery is being charged by the HV battery comes on ONLY when the I5 is OFF. The 12v does charge up when the I5 is in the ON or utility mode but dash light is not on. The 2022MY US market I5 now apparently monitors the 12v battery while the car is off and will top it up, as needed, and dash light comes on when that happens. (It's a warning to those working on the car that the HV battery is being accessed and is not isolated.) The problem of the dead 12v battery is a phenomenon of the 2021MY. The need for trickle charge or battery monitoring of the 12v battery is supposedly not necessary. Also, neither in-car display nor MyHyundai Bluelink app shows 12v battery condition.
Someone please tell me if I've got this wrong.

 

- the 12 V battery recharges from the main EV battery when the car is in the On/ignition mode. A yellow light appears on the dash indicating charging.
------------------------------------------------
Here is my understanding of this behavior of the 2022 I5 sold in US: The yellow dash light indicating that the 12v battery is being charged by the HV battery comes on ONLY when the I5 is OFF. The 12v does charge up when the I5 is in the ON or utility mode but dash light is not on. The 2022MY US market I5 now apparently monitors the 12v battery while the car is off and will top it up, as needed, and dash light comes on when that happens. (It's a warning to those working on the car that the HV battery is being accessed and is not isolated.) The problem of the dead 12v battery is a phenomenon of the 2021MY. The need for trickle charge or battery monitoring of the 12v battery is supposedly not necessary. Also, neither in-car display nor MyHyundai Bluelink app shows 12v battery condition.
Someone please tell me if I've got this wrong.
View attachment 41577

Wasn't aware of the 2021MY version? I thought all Ioniq 5's were 2022? In my case, my 12v battery is typically at 12.2 v, sometimes I have seen it at 11.7 volts. I don't think it does a great job, as the battery should be closer to 12.7v if fully charged. I have actually disconnected it, and placed reconditioning/desulphation charger on it to see if its a battery issue or the car simply forgets to charge it

 

P45 was the special launch edition with all the bells and whistles.

 

Now back to my question...

1. My dealer, who I have to doubt his credibility, is telling me my Ioniq 5 SEL RWD will come with level 2 charger cable.

It will be delivered on Sunday, April 24th, according to hiepcs.com.

I searched, and most people do say it only comes with level 1 charger. Did they change this or do you think my dealer just has absolutely no idea about what he is selling?

2. Any tips on picking car up from dealer?
Already told them not to drill a hole on the front of the car for the front license plate, so I can use tow hook mount.

Requested them to correctly position headlights.

Any other advice when picking up the car?

Thank you very much.

 

Exciting, picking up an I5.

Ask if the latest software has been installed. Ask them what they have for accessories (likely they will direct you to hyundai.com), if the service department has received special training on the I5 (likely they will say yes but if they don’t go into some detail on the training then there wasn’t much if any), ask them to show you the accessories and ready mode, how to change the drive type (eco, norm, sport , snow), set the regen level, set adaptive cruise control, heating and cooling in manual, auto as well in sync and driver only, how to open charging door, location of the inflation kit and tow hooks and wheel locks, button to change level 1 charger power setting, how to show and hide split screen, take it for a test drive and get to 60mph that there is no wobble, and to have some fun, ask how the rear wiper operates. Enjoy.

 

Excellent primer for new owners. Well done!

New Canadian Ultimate i5 owner here. Just completed a trip from Vernon BC to Winnipeg MB and back - about 4000 km in all, in some simply brutal mountain and prairie weather. Ordered the car on Hyundai Canada website. Received regular updates from them, and even more updates after selecting the final-delivery dealer who's just down the street. I was actually there signing the contract when the sales guy said "turn around... there's your new car" as the car hauler pulled in - with my car! There was no pressure to buy any dealer add-ons, although I did get them to order a few things. The whole dealer experience was just fine.

the car arriving at the dealer



I learned a lot - here's a summary that might help other owners and those still 'on the fence' or in the queue:

-the dealership did not know all that much about the car, especially the 'Ultimate-specific' stuff, but they freely admitted this - the forums, videos, other owners, and mobile phone downloads from the car itself are all needed - Bluelink would not work at first but tech support did a reset and quickly got it working - said it was a known issue - I've used its lots... it's slow but useful for preheating, defrost etc. for a comfortable start to a day of driving

-I drove the whole trip with the 20" tires the car came with - I really should have had proper winter tires - a few times I felt the car 'lose it' on ice - it's all good now that I'm back home but next winter I'll have this figured out (maybe aerodynamic 18"?)

-the Prairies in winter are a perfect storm of range anxiety for an EV - we had >60 km/hr cross/head winds both ways through all 3 provinces!, temperature -10 to +6, and the need to drive 110 km/hr to match traffic flow - as a result, range dropped from ~425 to under 300 km

-some of the PetroCan and Co-op Prairie chargers are out of order, or require multiple restarts

-ice storms this past winter were hard on the overall power infrastructure - a technician (with a company Ionic 5 !) at the Swift Current PetroCan advised both stations were out of order and needed major upgrades/repairs

-we nearly got stranded in Swift Current but finally found a Canadian Tire Flo station that worked - we then drove to Regina, arriving on fumes (electrons?) in wind, snow and decreasing visibility, to the oasis of the Delta Hotel with a free, indoor, level 2 charger that we could use all evening (great staff, food - a real find in the charging wasteland of Saskatchewan - we stayed here on the return trip as well, needless to say)

-I had Electrify Canada, Flo, BC Hydro, Co-op Connect mobile apps installed, with auto-$$reload; I used all of them at various times on the trip - PlugShare (invaluable tool) and the navigation system were used to find working stations - every charging system works a little different (plugin first, plugin after, tap a card, or tap the phone, or just have the app on and stand beside the charger...)

-I'm wondering if I can buy an adapter and tap into the Tesla system, even just for destination charging? (edit: bought a 'tesla tap' which works perfectly)

-I am finding the car has a personality... get too close to the rear hatch when opening and it'll close back down on your head as you're loading up; try to activate adaptive cruise in a 60 zone with the preset accidentally set at 100 and it throws a hissy fit; in fact cruise behaves differently when navigating; a complex system that's really more like my smart phone than a car... I'll get it... the more I use the car, the more I appreciate the tech involved

-the fast charger at the Porsche dealer in Wpg was out of order, but the Red River Co-op and the Polo Park stations worked fine - the car performed well on the snowy side streets and bare main streets of Winnipeg - but snow tires would have been better, especially on ice

-the Ultimate interior (light grey, green and red piping) is stunning, best sunroof ever (perfect dark tint), great dual info screens, heads-up display actually useful, good visibility all around, so spacious, rear seats flexible, movable centre console, accent lighting, eco-friendly vinyl (so far, much easier to clean than leather) - my son and I easily loaded a huge, new heavy toilet into the back on a Home Depot run, two days later we did a huge grocery run for pre-blizzard supplies (and charged up at Red River Co-op, of course)

-I think the exterior design is awesome... different from anything else out there, turns heads for sure - a guy ran out of a restaurant to look at the car... he even knew the name of the designer that he claimed Hyundai poached from Porsche a decade ago...an Ioniq driver at a charging station was over-the-top when I let her sit in the car while it charged at a PetroCan in Salmon Arm - it's kind of fun, really - the digital teal changes colour (just like the teal duck) as you walk around the car... how does Hyundai do that? (professional shot from a brochure, but hey, it looks like BC)

-the ride, feel and tracking are all pretty good, not sports car but safe and steady - and it is fast... by far the fastest car I've ever owned, or driven for that matter... a series of bumps when navigating a curve at highway speed cause the car to shimmy just a bit, you feel the need to wrestle the car back on track - the VWs I've owned all do better in this situation

-I've been driving since my dad took me on a trip across the Prairies at age 14 - he let me drive our 1958 Pontiac 2 speed automatic 283 for almost the whole trip - I've driven: a souped up 1964 Barracuda hatchback in rural Manitoba, a Citroen SM down Wellington Crescent in Wpg, owned a loaded 2009 VW red tdi wagon with full sunroof... all great cars in their own way, but the Ionic 5 is in a league all its own

-The good news on range is that we can control it to some extent - regenerative braking settings ('auto setting' seems the best, to me), climate and warmer settings, speed & acceleration

Here's the charger I have in my garage. Super rugged, flexible cord - not a smart charger (since I figured the car can do any scheduling if needed) :

Edit: Just finished a three day BC circle route Vernon - Penticton - Christina Lake - Rossland - Nakusp - Vernon and have these observations:

• lots of charging locations, and every one we tried worked,
• 'Auto' regeneration seems to work really well for me,
• delighted to see the range at 470 km after a top-up in Rossland
  
  [I realized it was a mistake to have topped up to 100% in this case because the next leg of the trip was a long steep downhill into Trail with lots of regeneration... but the free power had no where to go! - lesson learned is to leave space in battery if topography warrants]
  
  
• really happy with the car overall

Edit: November 2022 - over 16,000 km now... I still just love the car... four more BC road trips, farthest was Haida Gwaii... no issues with finding chargers (worth noting that Haida Gwaii has no DC or level 2 chargers now)... upgraded my home charger to 50 amp from 40, but I've been charging at a free DC station 5 minutes from home this fall... bought 18" snow tires and FastEV rims which look almost as good as the stock 20" rims... upgraded 3 interior bulbs to white LEDs...

thanks for reading if you've got this far...

 

Excellent primer for new owners. Well done!

New Canadian Ultimate i5 owner here. Just completed a trip from Vernon BC to Winnipeg MB and back - about 4000 km in all, in some simply brutal mountain and prairie weather. Ordered the car on Hyundai Canada website. Received regular updates from them, and even more updates after selecting the final-delivery dealer who's just down the street. I was actually there signing the contract when the sales guy said "turn around... there's your new car" as the car hauler pulled in - with my car! There was no pressure to buy any dealer add-ons, although I did get them to order a few things. The whole dealer experience was just fine.

View attachment 41627 View attachment 41628 the car arriving at the dealer



I learned a lot - here's a summary that might help other owners and those still 'on the fence' or in the queue:

-the dealership did not know all that much about the car, especially the 'Ultimate-specific' stuff, but they freely admitted this - the forums, videos, other owners, and mobile phone downloads from the car itself are all needed - Bluelink would not work at first but tech support did a reset and quickly got it working - said it was a known issue - I've used its lots... it's slow but useful for preheating, defrost etc. for a comfortable start to a day of driving

-I drove the whole trip with the 20" tires the car came with - I really should have had proper winter tires - a few times I felt the car 'lose it' on ice - it's all good now that I'm back home but next winter I'll have this figured out (maybe aerodynamic 18"?)

-the Prairies in winter are a perfect storm of range anxiety for an EV - we had >60 km/hr cross/head winds both ways through all 3 provinces!, temperature -10 to +6, and the need to drive 110 km/hr to match traffic flow - as a result, range dropped from ~425 to under 300 km

-some of the PetroCan and Co-op Prairie chargers are out of order, or require starting multiple times, or require lowering the charge request rate (the i5 can do this and it helped with a couple of stations others had reported out of order)

-ice storms this past winter were hard on the overall power infrastructure - a technician (with a company Ionic 5 !) at the Swift Current PetroCan advised both stations were out of order and needed major upgrades/repairs

-we nearly got stranded in Swift Current but finally found a Canadian Tire Flo station that worked - we then drove to Regina on fumes (electrons?) in the wind, snow and decreasing visibility, to the oasis of the Delta Hotel and a modest, but free, indoor level 2 charger that we could use all evening (great staff, food - a real find in the charging wasteland of Saskatchewan - stayed here on the return trip as well, needless to say)

-I had Electrify Canada, Flo, BC Hydro, Co-op Connect mobile apps installed, with auto-$$reload, and I used all of them at various times on the trip - PlugShare (invaluable tool) and the car navigation system were used to find working stations - each system works a little different (plugin first, plugin after, tap a card, or tap the phone, or just have the app on and stand beside the charger...

-I'm wondering if I can buy an adapter and tap into the Tesla system, even just for destination charging?

-I am finding the car has a personality... get too close to the rear hatch when opening and it'll close back down on your head as you're loading up; try to activate adaptive cruise in a 60 zone with the preset accidentally set at 100 and it throws a hissy fit; in fact cruise behaves differently when navigating; a complex system that's really more like my smart phone than a car... I'll get it... the more I use the car, the more I appreciate the tech involved

-the fast charger at the Porsche dealer in Wpg was out of order, but the Red River Co-op and the Polo Park stations worked fine - the car performed well on the snowy side streets and bare main streets of Winnipeg - but snow tires would have been better, especially on ice

-the Ultimate interior (light grey, green and red piping) is stunning, best sunroof ever (perfect dark tint), great dual info screens, heads-up display actually useful, good visibility all around, so spacious, rear seats flexible, movable centre console, accent lighting, eco-friendly vinyl (so far, much easier to clean than leather) - my son and easily loaded a huge, new heavy toilet into the back on a Home Depot run, two days later we did a huge grocery run for pre-blizzard groceries (and charged up at Red River Co-op, of course)

-I think the exterior design is awesome... different from anything else out there, turns heads for sure - a guy ran out of a restaurant to look at the car... he even knew the name of the designer that he claimed Hyundai poached from Porsche a decade ago...an Ioniq driver at a charging station was over-the-top when I let her sit in the car while it charged at a PetroCan in Salmon Arm - it's kind of fun, really - the digital teal changes colour (just like the teal duck) as you walk around the car... how does Hyundai do that? (professional shot from a brochure, but hey, it looks like BC)

View attachment 41630

-the ride, feel and tracking are all pretty good, not sports car but safe and steady - and it is fast... by far the fastest car I've ever owned, or driven for that matter... a series of bumps when navigating a curve at highway speed cause the car to shimmy just a bit, you feel the need to wrestle the car back on track - the VWs I've owned all do better in this situation

-I've been driving since my dad took me on a trip across the Prairies at age 14 - he let me drive our 1958 Pontiac 2 speed automatic 283 for the whole trip - I've driven a souped up 1964 Barracuda hatchback in rural Manitoba, a Citroen SM down Wellington Crescent in Wpg, and a loaded 2009 VW red tdi wagon with full sunroof... all great looking cars in their own way, but the Ionic 5 is in a league all of its own

-The good news as regards range, is that the 'kilometres left' value is not fixed... we can affect it in a few ways, regen level (looks like auto might be best?), climate settings and warmer settings, speed, planning ahead, preplan destination charge at end of day so you can arrive with nearly no range (bring your own adapters and a 220 charger for possible dryer/range 220 power at friend/family, or even 110 if you're stopping for a couple of days)

More good news... the kind of driving and location in BC are a perfect fit - the car feels like a "BC Car" - perfect for up and down, alternately braking and speeding up through the curves... the warmer weather... the kWh/100 went from 25 down to about 15... adding a commensurate amount of range... I was really glad to see this happen on our return to BC as we got closer to home.

Here's the charger I have in my garage. Super rugged, flexible cord - not a smart charger (since I figured the car can do any scheduling if needed) :

View attachment 41632 View attachment 41631

thanks for reading if you've got this far...

Thanks for sharing your experience. A Tesla to J1772 adapter such as from Tesla Tap will work at Tesla destination chargers, not superchargers. Winter tires are fantastic for the Prairie winter.

 

When I open the car door no interior lights come on. I must be missing something as I cannot find anything in the manual. The dome light in the middle of the roof will come on when the button is pressed. Are there any other lights that should come on? Courtesy lights? It is SEL Ioniq 5.

 

Page 5-89 of the owner's manual talks about this. There's a button on roof between the driver and front passenger that controls whether the door lamps come on when a door is opened.

 

My new ioniq5 only has one charger cable in USA. I read through checklist threads that had "check to m ake sure two charger cables". Is that for EU/Canada or does USA Ioniq 5 also come with two charger cables. I asked my dealer and he said it has only one charger cable. Thanks.

 

It will come with a level 1 charger and cable (together) in the USA and Canada.

 

sonorelli, that's awesome about the rebate for wiring upgrades too. Our utility (PNM) only offered a paltry $300 against an approved home charger, but we took it! And it didn't have any strings attached related to managing when you charge.

 

Great post. Just wanted to say in the UK the Level 1 charger appears to have 3 settings: 6,8,10. At setting 10 you get 2.3 KWh charge.

Thanks

re: the statement "- The Level 1 charger that comes with the car has three current settings (2, 6, 12) visible on the front in LED lights. When first used it defaults to setting 2. This is a trickle charge and really won’t charge the battery. Hold the black button on the right of the front panel to change between settings. Set to the maximum which is 12. This will provide 1.2-1.3 KWh charging I have a 22 Ioniq 5 but the charger that came with the car" I have a 2022 Ioniq 5 but there no current setting markings or led lights...nor does there appear to be a 'front panel'. What am I missing????

 

This is a primer for new Ioniq 5 owners giving hopefully brief, helpful advice and quick access to common questions. Unlike an internal combustion car, reading the manual is actually important for new EV owners and likely all-new Ioniq 5 owners. Also, you will find postings of real-world experiences by owners on YouTube much more helpful than those of car review sites.

The Search Community window at the top of any forum page is a great way to quickly access information and responses to previous posts.

Charging
- The Level 1 charger that comes with the car has three current settings (2, 6, 12) visible on the front in LED lights. When first used it defaults to setting 2. This is a trickle charge and really won’t charge the battery. Hold the black button on the right of the front panel to change between settings. Set to the maximum which is 12. This will provide 1.2-1.3 KWh charging

- The charger door panel opens from the FOB, by pushing on the door, and a manual release from inside the trunk. Pushing the charger door will not work if the car has been sitting a while and off.

- While charging the adapter will lock to not be removed for theft prevention. To unlock, open the doors and the adapter can be removed for a few seconds. Alternatively cut the power and the adapter will unlock.

- The Ioniq 5 is capable of extremely fast charging. However, many Level 3 charging stations do not come near its max capacity. Also charging current varies with air temperature if the car has been just driven at high speeds and the state of charge of the battery. Generally charging current increases with higher air temperature and battery temperature (to a point) and lower the state of charge.

- The car is capable of heating the battery to increase charging speed, but this requires a software update from Hyundai to really work as promised. For now, heating will happen if plugged into a Level 3 charger and it takes a while for the temperature to come to the optimum. An update is to allow heating before reaching a charging destination.

- It is better for the performance of the battery in the long term to usually charge up to 80%. It’s OK to charge to 100% when a greater distance is required.

- There is no best level 2 charger for your home. Your electric provider, government, and dealer may provide a rebate. The car can accept a maximum of 11.6 KWh for level 2 charging (60 amp breaker and 48 amp continuous delivery in North America).

- You can use a Tesla home and destination charger, but you need a Tesla to the Ioniq 5 charge port adapter (e.g., for North America a Tesla to J1772 adapter). You can not charge yet at a Tesla Supercharger.

Range
- The biggest issue new owners have is shock real-world range is lower than advertised. This is OK, your car is not broken.

- The range estimate on the display and in the Bluelink app is just that, an estimate to help plan when to charge. The range estimate is called a GOM, guess-o-meter. The estimate is more accurate the longer you have had the car and with consistent driving habits (acceleration, braking, speed, city, freeway), road surface, air temperature, wind speed and wind direction.

- Those in cold climates or freeway drivers will see the range estimate steadily decrease over the first weeks of driving. Your car is not broken. The car is improving its range estimate (GOM) based on the recent driving. The range estimate that came with the car was factory setting or for driving on a test in South Korea and didn't consider your climate, freeway driving and driving behaviour.

- The car has a greater range for city than freeway driving. Freeway driving has more air friction resistance and wind speed and direction is a bigger factor.

- Temperatures below -20 C/-4 F and the car will have an estimated range of almost 50% of advertised. At 25 C/77 F the range can be more than 100% of advertised.

- The faster the driving the lower the range.

- There are many driving modes for the car (Eco, Normal, Sport, Snow, i-Pedal), and regeneration settings (0, 1, 2, 3 and Auto). Eco and Snow will give the best range. The best regeneration setting varies with driving conditions and habitats. It is by trial to figure out what is best for you.

- Setting the climate to driver-only increases the range a bit as it does not use heat and AC.

- Using heated steering and seats increases range a bit over cabin heating.

- Depending on your country, your trim may or may not come with a heat pump. For trims with a heat pump there is still resistive heating as well.

Dead 12 V Battery
- The car has a 12 V battery to keep power to the computer, bluelink system, lights, alarm, radio etc. when off. It also engages the main EV battery to allow the car to drive.

- If the 12 V battery is drained the car will not start and the doors won't open if locked. Charging the main EV doesn't charge the 12 V battery.

- to get into the car with a dead 12 V battery use the mechanical key that is in the FOB, push the driver side handle in to reveal a lock under one side. Use the key, then pull the hood release located to the interior side of the driver like in most cars.

- The 12 V battery is under the hood and needs to be jumped to start the car. Jumping requires less current than a combustion vehicle. There are small portable jumping units at affordable prices.

- Some owners are finding the 12 V battery drains. This may be due to leaving lights on and the bluelink system activating a lot. For some the car needed servicing to fix.

- The 12 V battery recharges from the main EV battery. A yellow light appears on the dash indicating charging. Some MY21 cars are known to drain the 12 V as it isn’t charged automatically.

- Having the radio and lights on in ACC (accessories) mode drains the 12 V battery. Better to place car in Utility mode that uses the main EV battery

- Power is always on to the USB port and 12V socket below the centre dash above the floor. Other ports are only powered when the car is in On/ignition mode (perhaps Utility mode as well).

Infotainment and Bluelink App
- The infotainment system lacks delivery of information and album art for radio and XM.

- The navigation system is handy but also very bad for accuracy. Check that the destination location and routes shown on the display map seem reasonable.

- If your Bluelink app allows, backup the car settings in case the car loses them.

- There is no wireless CarPlay (perhaps Android Car) as well, needs to be plugged into the front USB port above the floor.

- The Bluelink can be very sluggish in some countries. The app features also differ between countries.

V2L
- Exterior V2L to power external things such needed for camping is standard on all trims. However, you need to purchase a V2L power adapter to plug into the charging port and a power cord into it. Check your country Hyundai accessories store, not cheap.

- Interior V2L to power external things does not come with all trims. In North America it comes with the Ultimate (Canada) or Limited (USA) package. A setting needs to be selected to use exterior or interior V2L.

Other
- The stock wipers are very poor, you probably want to buy better ones, especially for cold winter climates

- There is no rear wiper and it was intended that way. Yes it does need a rear wiper.

- The rear camera lens gets dirty fast.

- The frunk for North American RWD models is small and the same as the AWD version. This is not a mistake. The larger frunk as elsewhere is not allowed in the USA without an internal emergency release or internal partitions. Hyundai opted against those. Canada got pulled along. Some owners have been trying to buy the larger drunk from other countries.

- the rattle you hear in the back is likely the tow eye-bolt moving around below the trunk, the seat belt inserts hitting the plastic of the interior or a poor fitting trunk. Flip the seat belt around so the cloth backing hits the interior of the car. Yes, it needs to be checked every time someone uses the back seats. Some have stuck felt to the interior. The eyebolt can be put into the tire inflation kit. The trunk can be adjusted to sit better or some have added pads.

- The driving mode does not come back to Auto when starting the car.

- You can put 18” rims on the car, just make sure the whole wheel plus tire radius is to spec for the car. Search for wheel specs.

- The car recognizes tire pressure sensors (TPMS) automatically. Just drive the car and after a few minutes you will see the pressure readings on the display. At least this works for the Hyundai recommended TPMS.

- The auto steer is not perfect. Works better on clear well marked freeways. Watch out for merge and divergent lanes as the car try to veer off course.

- You may hit the toggle switches on the steering wheel when turning.

- new cars may come with a wobble to the drive at high speeds or with excessive-high tire pressure (e.g., 40 psi instead of 34). These are artifacts of shipping where tire pressure is increased and the cars are strapped down for security. Strapping can miss shape the tires.

- It can be hard to see the setting buttons on the front of the dash below the centre infotainment display in bright sunshine. There is a brightness wheel to the side of the steering wheel but it doesn’t help.

- If your trim is so equipped, set side mirror toggle in L or R position to have mirrors tilt down when reversing.

- Some have found the dealer is required to correctly position the headlight directions.

- Heat and AC will not work in Accessories mode.

- The upright small area of dash to the exterior side of steering wheel can hold a magnet. Some have used it to place phone or photos.

- You can find Ioniq 5 accessories available in your country by going to your country Hyundai website.

- Wait times for ordered cars is extremely long (2 years is common), particularly for top trim AWD versions. You also will not hear often from Hyundai about your order. There are component shortages in manufacturing. The model year 2023 (MY23) may have features changed from the mid-year 2022 (MY22.5) because of component sourcing issues.

- Those who have ordered an Ioniq 5 have likely also ordered other EV cars. Chances are your order position will improve as others decline a car because of having gotten a different EV.

- In some countries dealerships are asking above manufacturer’s suggested retail price.

- You can easily remove the IONIQ 5 white decal letters at the back of the car.

- Changing the trim level on an order has resulted in later placement in the build queue.

Common Abbreviations
ACC = adoptive cruise control
ACC = accessories mode (car uses 12 V battery for lights, infotainment etc.)
ADAS = advanced (or autonomous) driver assistance system (Level 2)
AWD = all-wheel drive (dual-engine version)
BCA = blind-spot collision avoidance assist
BEV = battery electric vehicle
BMS = battery Management System
CCS = combined charging system. Is the power inlet port of the Ioniq 5 that accepts AC (top) and DC (bottom) power
CRS = child restaint system
DAW = driver attention warning
DRL = day time running lamps (lights)
EMS = energy management system
EPB = electronic parking brake
ESC = electronic stability control
EVSE = electric vehicle supply equipment (any charging unit and often used for the charger included with the car)
FCA = forward collision-avoidance assist
GOM = guess-o-meter (display range)
HAC = hill-start assist brakes
HAD = highway driving assist
HUD = head up display (on top trims)
HVAC = heating, ventilation and air conditioning systems
ICE = internal combustion engine
ISLA = intelligent speed limit assist
J1172 = type 1 charge connector that fits into the top part of charging port in North America
kWh = kilowatt-hour
Level 1, 2, 3 charging = standard wall AC outlet, home and destination AC charges, DC fast charging
Level 2 ADAS = Ioniq 5 can control steering and accelerating/decelerating but needs a driver
LFA = lane keeping assist
LKA = lane keeping assist
MSLA = manual speed limit assist
MY = model year (MY22, MY22.5, MY23)
OBD = on board diagnostics (OBD Bluetooth dongle)
OEM = original equipment manufacturer
PCA = reverse parking collision-avoidance assist
PDW = parking distance warning
POI = point of interest (a navigation destination)
RCCA = rear cross-traffic collision-avoidance assist
REGEN = regenerative braking, electric motor(s) become generators and recoup power that would otherwise be lost as heat from brake friction.
REGEN Level = 0, 1, 2, 3, Auto (at bottom left of display, setting for amount of regen braking)
ROA = advanced rear occupant alert
RSPA = remote smart parking assist
RVM = rear view monitor
RWD = rear-wheel drive (single engine version)
SCC = smart cruise control
SOC = state of charge for main EV battery
Supercharger = Tesla DC fast chargers
SVM = surround view monitor
TPMS = tyre (tire) pressure monitoring system
V2L = vehicle to load (power external items)
VIN = vehicle identification number

This primer is updated regularly as new suggestions come along. Forum members and posts can dive deeper than here and help with other questions. Happy posting and searching.

Congratulations on your purchase or consideration of an Ioniq 5. It is a great car.

I have a general question about the degree of future-proofing that was designed into the Ioniq 5. As a first-time EV purchaser recently attracted to the Ioniq 5 by favorable reviews, I want more specific technical details than Hyundai provides (that is to say, next to none) about feature update possibilities and limitations of the Ioniq 5. Is the function of all hardware on the vehicle capable of over-the-air updating to the technical limits of such hardware? For example, I'd like a definitive statement that battery pre-charge conditioning will eventually be optimized when the Ioniq 5 is en route to a high-speed charger and that the algorithm for charging the 12V battery will eventually eliminate the apparently not uncommon need to jump-start the car. A less pressing but interesting question is whether the Ioniq 5 is potentially capable of self-driving someday? I would find it informative to compare in detail the OTA update potential of the Ioniq 5 to Tesla models. Has anyone seen such a comparison?

 

Great questions. There are no definitive statements from Hyundai that OTA and battery pre-conditioning will be given to existing cars (P45,MY22, MY22.5). The Car setup software and the Bluelink app have options for preconditioning but they are not functional. When I was researching the car before ordering in October 2021, reviews mentioned it was preconditioning capable but an upgrade was to come. Car Scanner shows an output for voltage of a battery warmer if I recall. But it is at 0. OTA is an option in the Car software but is not functional. Preconditioning and OTA are listed as being additions to MY23 compared to MY22 in the UK. This concerns me because if MY22 is capable of upgrading then why say there is a difference in MY23?

 

Charging
- The Level 1 charger that comes with the car has three current settings (2, 6, 12) visible on the front in LED lights. When first used it defaults to setting 2. This is a trickle charge and really won’t charge the battery. Hold the black button on the right of the front panel to change between settings. Set to the maximum which is 12. This will provide 1.2-1.3 KWh charge

Great post. Just wanted to say in the UK the Level 1 charger appears to have 3 settings: 6,8,10. At setting 10 you get 2.3 KWh charge.

Thanks

 

Mind blown! Out of interest what kWh do you get on level 6? If If I charge on setting 6 then I charge at about 3 miles / per hour which is painfully slow

 

Mine is 220V 6A to 12A, 2.6 kW on the display.

 

Mine is 220V 6A to 12A, 2.6 kW on the display.

Thanks. That is the same unit that came with my car. It can take 110 and 220V with double the charging capacity at 220V.

 

Do you have any knowledge about the 3 year low conductivity coolant change interval which costs nearly $1000?
The LC coolant is very expensive, like $60/L needing 13 liters. The EV6 does not use this coolant.
I spoke to a local dealer and was told they usually just check the LC coolant after 3 years and it usually does not need changing.

 

It has been a topic of threads in several of the EV model forums. Haven’t seen anything official from Hyundai on the topic. Some thought using the low conductivity expensive coolant was a precaution for when there was an earlier concern of battery fires and the cause wasn’t exactly known. Others say the schedule replacement is for severe usage such as in hot climates. Some say the schedule makes no sense for most places in cold winters such as Canada. Others say to just check the quality of the coolant and replace as needed. Bottom line is not going by the schedule may void warranty.

 

A small fix regarding this line... "Power is always on to the USB port and 12V socket below the centre dash above the floor."

Just got my Ultimate AWD and the 12V socket turns off with the vehicle so I installed my Dashcam to that port.

 

Thanks

 

Disregard . Sorry