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I am certainly frustrated with the USB issue but I don't understand how this could solve it. The product information only mentions reducing RF noise.
 
Sadly, my newly replaced USB harness only lasted 6 weeks before it dropped out again today for the first time. It only happened once, but this behavior is exactly how I remember the issue beginning the first time around. Sigh.

Not really sure where I go from here. I'll grab another USB replacement to have and do the swap again, but I think it's a foregone conclusion that this is just going to keep happening until Hyundai literally makes a new part.
 
So unfortunate to see the variety of issues with this dropout problem. Thanks to this forum, I had a good idea of what needed to be done (based on the earlier posts from late 2022). I went to my dealer, about 5 minutes from my house, and they ordered the part and replaced it for me under warranty (without seeing the problem firsthand, they just trusted me). Since the wiring harness has been replaced, both AA and CP have been working 100%. Hopefully this will not fail again. After the installation of the wiring harness by the dealership, I decided to take a peek at the wiring myself. Everything was neatly arranged and nothing was too tight (no cable strain). While I had the whole thing open, I decided to replace the useless 12v socket with a USB-A/USB-C charge port, since the charge ports in the center console do not push out enough power to charge my phone. Had to do some cutting work to fit the new plug, but it works great! Now I have built-in fast charging!

Now just crossing my fingers that the AA/CP feature will hold up. Will report back if it eventually fails. It has only been 3 weeks since the replacement part was installed.

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Unfortunately, my "fix" failed a few weeks ago. I had used dielectric grease on (only) the white connection and used a usb switch together with the 12v cigarette lighter port in an attempt to decrease potential electrical fluctuations (see #73). It was completely fixed (zero drops) for about 2.5 months, then the issue came back without warning. I tried resetting the white connection again with more dielectric grease, but it didn't help at all the second time. I gave up trying to get the blue connection off. Android auto is unusable now, cutting out randomly as before.

Such a shame. Hyundai should really get this fixed - not only is it an advertised feature that should work on such an expensive car, but it is quite dangerous having our navigation just drop in the middle of driving, i.e., although I try not to, it is natural to want to plug and unplug the USB port when it happens.
 
Unfortunately, my "fix" failed a few weeks ago. I had used dielectric grease on (only) the white connection and used a usb switch together with the 12v cigarette lighter port in an attempt to decrease potential electrical fluctuations (see #73). It was completely fixed (zero drops) for about 2.5 months, then the issue came back without warning. I tried resetting the white connection again with more dielectric grease, but it didn't help at all the second time. I gave up trying to get the blue connection off. Android auto is unusable now, cutting out randomly as before.

Such a shame. Hyundai should really get this fixed - not only is it an advertised feature that should work on such an expensive car, but it is quite dangerous having our navigation just drop in the middle of driving, i.e., although I try not to, it is natural to want to plug and unplug the USB port when it happens.
That's really unfortunate. I don't think I would want a car without AA or CP as a feature anymore. I rely on it way too much. The I5 does have a nice interface, but it's just not AA. Hoping Hyundai receives enough complaints about it that they do something to fix it. Like you said, dangerous for a navigation app to fail while you are "navigating". I'll report back if my new cable fails.
 
It's only been a week, but I haven't had any dropouts with my AI box in the last week after installing the Jitterbug FMJ. If the Ioniq-5 USB port has voltage fluctuations and it's not being fixed in the new USB harness maybe this device, which says it regulates the voltage on both power and data lines, could be the answer. If anyone else is inclined to try it too, I'd love to hear the results. I figured if I got it from Amazon and it didn't work I could always return it, but so far it's been a big improvement.
 
but so far it's been a big improvement.
Hey, thanks for that information. By "big improvement", do you mean the dropouts have completely stopped? Or have only diminished? I think I may get one of these, even if the problem has been fixed (fingers crossed) with the new wiring harness. Just in case it starts doing it again over time, I'll have something that could potentially solve the issue immediately.

Let us know, over time, if the device holds up!
 
Hey, thanks for that information. By "big improvement", do you mean the dropouts have completely stopped? Or have only diminished? I think I may get one of these, even if the problem has been fixed (fingers crossed) with the new wiring harness. Just in case it starts doing it again over time, I'll have something that could potentially solve the issue immediately.

Let us know, over time, if the device holds up!
I actually haven't had any dropouts since using it. It would be good to have someone else try it to see if it's just my good luck or if it's really a potential fix.
 
Thanks OP for this, I wiggled the blue connector and android auto magically started working! I removed it, added naolox to the female holes, and put back together. I can now also update the software via USB 🙂
I've included a couple of pics attached just to help others as dumb as myself (I'm normally tech savvy 😔).
When removing the blue connector from the unit you need to push in the side connector at the closest point to where it is connected to the unit (red arrow).
I spent ages trying to make it "release" (move away) from this area by pressing in the clip near the cable end 😭 - literally an hour..... Sigh.....
Now we wait and see how long it lasts.....
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Like many of you, I eventually developed the intermittent USB issue where the connection is randomly interrupted and the music or phone call is stopped, then it reconnects (maybe) after a few seconds. Sometimes it can happen 3 times in a row, and sometimes it doesn't happen for a day or two.

I had my 5000 mile service a few weeks ago, and the dealer said "all is well" with the USB port, so they refused to address it under warranty. Despite this being a widespread issue, to my knowledge Hyundai has not acknowledged it with a TSB. I realize that I could probably try to take a video and make multiple trips to a dealer to have it fixed under warranty, but time is money and the part to fix it is $66 and my labor is free.

As a disclaimer, proceed at your own risk, etc etc. If you are not handy then try to get it done under warranty. I've hard-wired dash cams in at least 5 different vehicles now (most are not as easy as the I5 with the Dongar), so I have familiarity with removing trim pieces and working with harnesses but I am not a mechanical guru by any stretch. Most of this is very easy with really the only issue being freeing up the blue harness. I did not disconnect any batteries for this.

The part number is 96120-GI000 (that's the letter I after G, not a 1), and I ordered it from Lakeland Hyundai for $66.74 shipped. It took a week to get to me.

View attachment 46670

As you see the part consists of the main USB harness that plugs into the plastic floor trim piece, and two connectors - one with a white harness that is super easy to replace, and one with a blue harness that is a PITA. You can see in the upper right corner of the picture where the blue harness has a small rectangular clip on the side where you push the top part to free it. Notice also the red and white tape on the wire as this will help you locate the OEM wire under the dash.

The first steps are very easy and involve removing the plastic trim piece and cubby on the floor. Start by using a flathead screwdriver to remove the two plastic clips on the left and right side. If you slide the screwdriver under the center circle to pop it up, the clips will easily come out. Then use the flathead screwdriver in the notch under the felt piece to remove it which reveals a 10 mm hex head bolt.

View attachment 46671

View attachment 46672

Once those three things are removed, the plastic trim piece should be easily to rock back and forth. There are four plastic clips at the top that hold the piece in. If you kinda rock it some and put gentle pressure on the sides you should be able to eventually free up the entire trim piece. Do not yank with all of your might as there are two wires connected to the USB port and the 12V adapter. There is some slack in the wires, but still be careful.

View attachment 46673

This is what the underside of the plastic piece looks like. Unclip the 12V adapter harness and then push on the clips on both sides of the rectangular black USB harness to remove it (you can look at the new USB part for reference on where to push). Once these two wires are free you can put the big plastic trim piece out of the way.

View attachment 46678

This is how it looks once the USB harness is removed. The white harness connection is seen in the background, and the blue PITA connector is under the dash. You can unclip the white harness connector now.

View attachment 46675

So for my hands to fit under the dash, I had to loosen the trim piece to give me room. The lower dash is made of three plastic trim pieces - under the steering wheel, the center part, and the glove compartment. The part of the center trim piece next to the steering wheel is connected to a lot of pieces and is not easily freed. The bottom right of the center trim piece is easily loosened by a gentle tug under the corner as seen in the picture.

View attachment 46676

Here's where the fun begins. So the red part of the wire is exposed right under the dash once you remove the center trim piece a few steps ago. This picture is taken as I'm lying on the floor of the passenger foot well. As you can see in this picture, the wire is in a plastic clip right above the red part and then it runs parallel to the dash edge before connecting to a harness that is under the wires seen in this photo. If you put the two USB parts side by side you will have an idea of where the blue harness is by following the length of the wire. You can easily free the wire from the plastic clip by the red marker, so at this point the only thing connected is the blue harness.

View attachment 46677

I laid down on the passenger side of the front row to get the best access to the harness where my head was resting where a passenger's feet would be and I'm looking up to the right. Tugging gently on the center trim piece to give me some room with my left hand, I used my phone's light and laid it beside my head and grabbed the harness with my right hand. You can easily move the other wires out of the way and you will see the blue harness. It is connected to a silver part where there are 3 harnesses or so side by side, and at this orientation it is the right-most plug (towards the driver side). If you look at your new plug, you will see there's a plastic clip on the side where you want to depress the top part to free things up (reference the first picture). If I had smaller hands this part would have been much easier but eventually I got it freed.

After the old piece is removed then you are home free. Insert the blue harness from the new part back into the now open plug (make sure you study the orientation of the harness before removing it- the clip part should be facing away from you). Then run the wire back under the plastic dash and insert the wire back into the plastic clip by the red marker.

Then pop the corner of the center dash trim piece back into place and connect the white harness and the USB harness back into place (there's a yellow TOP sticker to help with orientation). Be sure to reconnect the 12V power adapter harness as well. Grab the center trim piece and pop it back into place by pushing where the four white clips are. Put the 10 mm bolt back in then the felt cover, and pop the two plastic clips on each side.

Hopefully I will have no more Carplay issues now. If you are as frustrated with the intermittent dropping and the dealer as I was, hopefully this will be helpful to somebody!
Hi, new to this forum, but I just took my first road trip in my Ioniq 6 and I had numerous drop outs from Android auto. I thought my AA wireless adapter was bad, but I never had problems with it in my 2019 Ioniq. Hopefully Hyundai comes up with a fix for this, but it appears it's not only with the I5.
 
It's only been a week, but I haven't had any dropouts with my AI box in the last week after installing the Jitterbug FMJ. If the Ioniq-5 USB port has voltage fluctuations and it's not being fixed in the new USB harness maybe this device, which says it regulates the voltage on both power and data lines, could be the answer. If anyone else is inclined to try it too, I'd love to hear the results. I figured if I got it from Amazon and it didn't work I could always return it, but so far it's been a big improvement.
I went ahead and bought a Jitterbug FMJ and WOW - instantly fixed. I've been so frustrated by the intermittent dropouts and Hyundai's response (my dealership was able to successfully replicate the problem but, after trying dielectric grease, with no success, and them then talking to Hyundai nationally, they said it's a software problem they can't fix) that I figured worth the risk and relatively small cost.

The idea that voltage fluctuations are involved intuitively makes sense to me because the problem happens sporadically but more when it's cold - and because when it disconnects from carplay, the iphone shows that it's not even charging any more. I have no idea why dielectric grease works for some people and not others.

But I turned my car on this morning, plugged in my phone (without the Jitterbug) and Carplay wouldn't connect at all. Turned off the car, plugged in the Jitterbug into the USB port and then plugged my phone into that, and instantly worked. Had no dropouts at all for the duration of my journey. This is the first time in months there have been zero disconnections.

No idea if this solution will work for everybody, or will continue working, but has completely solved my problem so far!
 
I've been chasing this same issue on my '23 Palisade for months now. Fortunately, haven't seen the issue on my '23 Ioniq 5 yet. Dealer says the port is fine, but won't take our multiple video recordings as evidence of the issue. I just ordered the Jitterbug FMJ and will try it on the Palisade to see if it fixes the issue, and will report back here. Seems not nearly as many cases of this issue on the Palisade... or maybe it's just all soccer moms not using Car Play on the Palisade... :D
 
I need to revise my above post to "much better" but not "completely fixed." The Jitterbug has made a tangible difference but it's not perfect. I've had a few drop outs, but it seems to happen much less. Before it was essentially unusable.
 
Good to hear others are also having good results with the Jitterbug FMJ. I'm going on 3 weeks now and still no dropouts with my AI box yet. I'm so happy.
 
I have had my carplay device for wireless connectivity since I bought my car in Dec 21. Initially, it was near perfect but after about a year or so I started to loose connectivity more frequently. I thought it was the USB but was not certain so I bought a USB lead with a switch to make it easier to reset (https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B09BYYFMXV?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1). However, since fitting this lead it has been rock solid again!
 
'23 Limited purchased in January 2023 started dropping connection in April with a brand new apple USB cable (used cable since I got the car; tried other brand new apple cables and still had drops). After reading some people's success with nolax, I decided to give it a shot applying Permatex dielectric grease to both female ends (white and blue) of the USB harness connections (since I already had some handy from other projects). Happy to report a week without any drops!

Couple of tips that will hopefully help someone:
  • Disconnect the USB connection end from the plastic trim piece (helps get the trim out of the way even if you're not replacing the cable)
  • Used the right angle hook from this kit to remove the stubborn blue connector (top right in second product picture, also used this kit to install the OEM mudguards). Placed the tip of the hook on the middle of the plastic portion of the blue connector and applied firm pressure and pulled back and it came out easily. This helped so much and only took me around 40 minutes from start to finish.
  • Applied a healthy amount of the dielectric grease in the female connections aiming to coat the pins (wiped excess after completing connections).
  • Moved front passenger seat all the way back and worked from this side as this side helps with accessing the blue connection (initially tried working from the driver side).
Will report back in a month with any updates. Good luck!
 
Got the Jitterbug today and tested on my EV6. Without it, my phone would immediately connect/drop within a few seconds. Plugged in and immediately connected and maintained the USB connection for Carplay. Will continue testing but so far, a far improvement over the last 3 weeks.
 
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