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Welp, I replaced the USB harness myself. It was easier than I thought after I made myself as comfortable as possible laying on the floor. I used an LED headlamp that really made it easier to see everything. Only thing I'd add to @Hotdog16's fantastic tutorial is to open the glovebox when reattaching the trim. A tab was sticking out and I couldnt get it snapped back in because the glovebox was hiding it. Fingers crossed this works, but now that I did it, I'm comfortable having to do it again if/when it happens in the future.
 
Discussion starter · #102 ·
Awesome, glad to hear another success story! An LED headlamp would be awesome. I just turned the light on my phone and laid it beside my head in the passenger footwell haha.

Yes once you are able to contort your body into the footwell it's actually not that bad.
 
Awesome, glad to hear another success story! An LED headlamp would be awesome. I just turned the light on my phone and laid it beside my head in the passenger footwell haha.

Yes once you are able to contort your body into the footwell it's actually not that bad.
I got weirdly claustrophobic the first time I tried it too, but comfort is key!
 
Discussion starter · #106 ·
1 goes into the 3 position. 2 goes into the port near the USB in the center floor console once you take the cover off.
 
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That means the only electronic sits in the USB port/jack of the cable 96120-GI000 or then in the tuner unit.
So there are 2 cables(blue connector) once the 96120-GI000 to connector 1 and then the extension cord to the tuner unit 3.
The other cable that comes out from 96120-GI000 with the white connector on it goes to the center floor console and is not relevant (only for charging) for CarPlay?
Have I understood this correctly?
 
Discussion starter · #108 ·
I am not sure what plugs do what to be honest. The part has a white and a blue plug and the USB port on the other end, and it's easy to see where each part goes by studying the original positioning of the identical cable.
 
The part number is 96120-GI000 (that's the letter I after G, not a 1),
Hi, I attempted to get this problem serviced under warranty at College Park Hyundai. They said it would be "weeks" before the part came in and I was about to move. Now I am over an hour from the nearest dealer that will service the vehicle, and they want me to come in twice, once for re-verification and once for the repair. So, DIY I guess ...

The twist is that College Park Hyundai gave me a different part number: 84624-GI010. Here's the only place I can find it online:
84624-GI010 Genuine Hyundai WIRING ASSY-CONSOLE EXTN (hyundaipartsdeal.com)

Wondering if there has been an update, or if the dealer just made a mistake. Anyone have a clue on this?
 
Discussion starter · #111 ·
After I traded in I actually pre bought the part again just to have handy. It took about 10 days to come in and another couple to ship to me.

I don’t know what that other part number is but the one I just bought last month was the same part number.
 
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Status update: it has now been a month since I tried (and failed) to grease my connectors, so I just wiggled them a bunch and did my best to reseat both of them.

Not a single dropout since for me.
Very similar experience here though I managed to apply Noalox to the white connector.

When attempting to access the blue connector I did a bit of experimentation with the iPhone connected at the time and found that the stability (or lack there of) of the CarPlay connection was heavily impacted by the routing of the wiring harness of the blue connector.

After re-routing the harness to take some tension off, the CarPlay connection has been rock solid for the past three weeks. This is in complete contrast to earlier where stability degraded to a completely unusable state (<5mins).

Like many of you here, the dealership was next to useless.
 
Recently mine got very bad. I watched my phone charge indication blink on/off/on/off. The car usb and carplay would not even register.

I pulled apart the dash, disconnected the connectors and applied Noalox on both connectors. it was posted somewhere in the thread, the blue connector release tab is facing the driver side. I pressed on it with a long screwdriver and was able to pull it off. Applied the Noalox to the blue female openings with a toothpick and to the male ends of the white.

Well it immediately connects now. Hopefully it is stable. The wife primary drives the I5 and I asked her to use the connection and let me know.
 
Discussion starter · #114 ·
Seems like we are narrowing down the issue. Maybe not a part issue after all but how it is placed or strained to affect the connection. That would make sense perhaps on why some models aren’t ever affected but others are.
 
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Like many of you, I eventually developed the intermittent USB issue where the connection is randomly interrupted and the music or phone call is stopped, then it reconnects (maybe) after a few seconds. Sometimes it can happen 3 times in a row, and sometimes it doesn't happen for a day or two.

I had my 5000 mile service a few weeks ago, and the dealer said "all is well" with the USB port, so they refused to address it under warranty. Despite this being a widespread issue, to my knowledge Hyundai has not acknowledged it with a TSB. I realize that I could probably try to take a video and make multiple trips to a dealer to have it fixed under warranty, but time is money and the part to fix it is $66 and my labor is free.

As a disclaimer, proceed at your own risk, etc etc. If you are not handy then try to get it done under warranty. I've hard-wired dash cams in at least 5 different vehicles now (most are not as easy as the I5 with the Dongar), so I have familiarity with removing trim pieces and working with harnesses but I am not a mechanical guru by any stretch. Most of this is very easy with really the only issue being freeing up the blue harness. I did not disconnect any batteries for this.

The part number is 96120-GI000 (that's the letter I after G, not a 1), and I ordered it from Lakeland Hyundai for $66.74 shipped. It took a week to get to me.

View attachment 46670

As you see the part consists of the main USB harness that plugs into the plastic floor trim piece, and two connectors - one with a white harness that is super easy to replace, and one with a blue harness that is a PITA. You can see in the upper right corner of the picture where the blue harness has a small rectangular clip on the side where you push the top part to free it. Notice also the red and white tape on the wire as this will help you locate the OEM wire under the dash.

The first steps are very easy and involve removing the plastic trim piece and cubby on the floor. Start by using a flathead screwdriver to remove the two plastic clips on the left and right side. If you slide the screwdriver under the center circle to pop it up, the clips will easily come out. Then use the flathead screwdriver in the notch under the felt piece to remove it which reveals a 10 mm hex head bolt.

View attachment 46671

View attachment 46672

Once those three things are removed, the plastic trim piece should be easily to rock back and forth. There are four plastic clips at the top that hold the piece in. If you kinda rock it some and put gentle pressure on the sides you should be able to eventually free up the entire trim piece. Do not yank with all of your might as there are two wires connected to the USB port and the 12V adapter. There is some slack in the wires, but still be careful.

View attachment 46673

This is what the underside of the plastic piece looks like. Unclip the 12V adapter harness and then push on the clips on both sides of the rectangular black USB harness to remove it (you can look at the new USB part for reference on where to push). Once these two wires are free you can put the big plastic trim piece out of the way.

View attachment 46678

This is how it looks once the USB harness is removed. The white harness connection is seen in the background, and the blue PITA connector is under the dash. You can unclip the white harness connector now.

View attachment 46675

So for my hands to fit under the dash, I had to loosen the trim piece to give me room. The lower dash is made of three plastic trim pieces - under the steering wheel, the center part, and the glove compartment. The part of the center trim piece next to the steering wheel is connected to a lot of pieces and is not easily freed. The bottom right of the center trim piece is easily loosened by a gentle tug under the corner as seen in the picture.

View attachment 46676

Here's where the fun begins. So the red part of the wire is exposed right under the dash once you remove the center trim piece a few steps ago. This picture is taken as I'm lying on the floor of the passenger foot well. As you can see in this picture, the wire is in a plastic clip right above the red part and then it runs parallel to the dash edge before connecting to a harness that is under the wires seen in this photo. If you put the two USB parts side by side you will have an idea of where the blue harness is by following the length of the wire. You can easily free the wire from the plastic clip by the red marker, so at this point the only thing connected is the blue harness.

View attachment 46677

I laid down on the passenger side of the front row to get the best access to the harness where my head was resting where a passenger's feet would be and I'm looking up to the right. Tugging gently on the center trim piece to give me some room with my left hand, I used my phone's light and laid it beside my head and grabbed the harness with my right hand. You can easily move the other wires out of the way and you will see the blue harness. It is connected to a silver part where there are 3 harnesses or so side by side, and at this orientation it is the right-most plug (towards the driver side). If you look at your new plug, you will see there's a plastic clip on the side where you want to depress the top part to free things up (reference the first picture). If I had smaller hands this part would have been much easier but eventually I got it freed.

After the old piece is removed then you are home free. Insert the blue harness from the new part back into the now open plug (make sure you study the orientation of the harness before removing it- the clip part should be facing away from you). Then run the wire back under the plastic dash and insert the wire back into the plastic clip by the red marker.

Then pop the corner of the center dash trim piece back into place and connect the white harness and the USB harness back into place (there's a yellow TOP sticker to help with orientation). Be sure to reconnect the 12V power adapter harness as well. Grab the center trim piece and pop it back into place by pushing where the four white clips are. Put the 10 mm bolt back in then the felt cover, and pop the two plastic clips on each side.

Hopefully I will have no more Carplay issues now. If you are as frustrated with the intermittent dropping and the dealer as I was, hopefully this will be helpful to somebody!
Could you please annotate that for U.K. RHD vehicles the bottom circular rubber bung on the drivers footrest must be removed revealing a 12mm bolt that needs loosening. This allows the footrest to be loosened and the centre scuttle to be wiggled free as on U.K. cars the centre scutttle has two retaining flaps that fold under the drivers footrest.

So far I’ve cleaned the contacts on the white 12v power harness and reattached but couldnt remove the blue plug despite succesfully depressing the retainer on the side. I exerted so much force I was afraid I’d break something so I simply pushed the blue plug into the socket hard and replaced the retainer on the side. So far I’ve had no disconnects but I’ll report further if I do. I straightened the harness routing too as it was quite convoluted. I purchased a sachet of liquid-moly battery terminal grease as it was the cheapest dielectric grease on Amazon UK but I’ve yet to use it.

*Update, I have not had one dropout yet which is fantastic. Thanks to this guide I have removed the one major frustration with the car.
 
I believe @shdu73 was onto something when he mentioned electrical fluctuations on the USB line being the root cause. I got one of the switches that cuts the USB power out, and a cable to take the power from the cigarette lighter adapter instead and haven't had any issues yet with my wireless CarPlay adapter (it's only been a few days, but it would cut out pretty consistently). It's possible the new part number you are mentioning has this issue resolved and is the best long term solution, but for those who don't want to pull their car apart I'd recommend trying @shdu73 's solution to see if it works for you. If it works maybe you could use that as ammunition to have your dealer replace the part for you.
 
Recently mine got very bad. I watched my phone charge indication blink on/off/on/off. The car usb and carplay would not even register.

I pulled apart the dash, disconnected the connectors and applied Noalox on both connectors. it was posted somewhere in the thread, the blue connector release tab is facing the driver side. I pressed on it with a long screwdriver and was able to pull it off. Applied the Noalox to the blue female openings with a toothpick and to the male ends of the white.

Well it immediately connects now. Hopefully it is stable. The wife primary drives the I5 and I asked her to use the connection and let me know.
Well so much for this being the 100% fix. On a short 20 min drive, has a couple of drop outs..
 
Just did this on Thursday using your steps and it was spot on. So far no drop outs. One thing to add that helped me out was to use a flat head screwdriver to help depress the clip on the old blue connector on the side closest to the steering wheel if you can't reach your finger all the way up there. I did not use any grease on the connections. Really appreciate the time you spent to document all of this, you saved me hours from going to the multiple dealers since the closest one by me rejected the repair.

I ended up first placing an order at Boucher Hyundai for the part through oempartsonline.com and got an email the next day saying they are not an EV dealer and cannot sell the part to me. I then went ahead and ordered through Lakeland. However I later found out that you can change the dealer at oempartsonline.com at the bottom to an EV dealer like Braman Hyundai. They have lower shipping costs at least for my location, so just FYI for anyone else attempting this.
I unfortunately have a negative update as well. My repair from December was going great until these past few weeks. Constant dropouts again. I removed the part a few days ago to check if anything got loose and it's all pretty tight. Called up Lakeland and they said they would submit it for a warranty claim but I have to pay for shipping both ways. I could also ask a local dealer to submit for me but mine is probably one of the least helpful ones in the country. These parts are really bad quality or something else is at play here.
 
Discussion starter · #119 ·
Ugh thanks for the update. That is disappointing to hear a replacement part developed the same issue.
 
Leaning towards the idea that it could be voltage fluctuations on the USB port causing this, I ordered this from Amazon for about $60. It regulates the voltage on both the power and data channels of the USB port. Since installing it I've had no problems so far. I'll report back if problems arise despite having this connected, but so far I think it's worth a try if you're getting frustrated with the issue.

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