[ExGMan]

Yup, the studies have been linked to a few times here, basically the closer to 50% you keep that threshold the longer the ev battery will last.

• In an aging study of Ecker et al. [201], the cycling intervals of 0–20%, 80–100%, and 65–85% led to a substantially faster degradation than the cycling interval of 40–60%.

I see about 160 miles at 60% and never, ever, drive anywhere near that without advanced planning. I've set mine to charge to 60% and plug it in if it's below 50% when I get home so it's almost always charging 40-60% now with the idea this is the best for the battery - a smaller charge differential more often - as the data has shown.

My goal is to keep the car indefinitely and if simply charging 40-60% greatly improves the odds the battery will last well beyond 100k (as the data has shown) I'm happy to do that. Calendar aging will definitely be a thing but I'm really excited to see just how long this thing lasts honestly!

Zamafir - are you still adhering to the Hyundai "Charge to 100% once a month" advice? Perhaps you never did that?

 

[zamafir]

Zamafir - are you still adhering to the Hyundai "Charge to 100% once a month" advice? Perhaps you never did that?

Man, I've been all over the place to be honest.

When i first got the IONIQ 5 I resolved to just DC fast charge it because free and it's not like all the crappy alternatives that tell you not to (VW, Toyota, etc). So I'd say 80% of my charging the first year and 10,000 miles was DC fast charge and I was charging to 100% roughly once a month as it coincided with a long trip.

After a few folks clarified on here not to do it unless the battery dropped below 20% as mentioned in the manual - I only ever do it in that case, if I dig deep below 20% in the pack which maybe happens once a quarter.

Now I just religiously charge it between 40 and 60 % during my regular week.

 

[rbdavis808]

Zamafir - are you still adhering to the Hyundai "Charge to 100% once a month" advice? Perhaps you never did that?

I figure if the carmaker explicitly tells you to do something battery-wise then at the very worst it can't be all that risky. And if your battery craps out and warranty support asks if you did as directed you can then say yes.

I get the (possibly incorrect) impression this might be more about calibrating the GOM than anything else. I do it whenever I irregularly remember, maybe every two months, and make damned sure to drive several percent off the top of the tank the very next day.

 

[Fan of EV]

Yup, the studies have been linked to a few times here, basically the closer to 50% you keep that threshold the longer the ev battery will last.

• In an aging study of Ecker et al. [201], the cycling intervals of 0–20%, 80–100%, and 65–85% led to a substantially faster degradation than the cycling interval of 40–60%.

I see about 160 miles at 60% and never, ever, drive anywhere near that without advanced planning. I've set mine to charge to 60% and plug it in if it's below 50% when I get home so it's almost always charging 40-60% now with the idea this is the best for the battery - a smaller charge differential more often - as the data has shown.

My goal is to keep the car indefinitely and if simply charging 40-60% greatly improves the odds the battery will last well beyond 100k (as the data has shown) I'm happy to do that. Calendar aging will definitely be a thing but I'm really excited to see just how long this thing lasts honestly!

For car battery life you seem to have a good scheme.

The fly in the ointment for me is that I also use the V2L to provide emergency power. My household electrical use is pretty low so with some care I can basically go for several days off of the car V2L. But that assumes a pretty full battery pack. Some emergencies, typically weather related, have enough advance notice that I could simply charge to 90% before the event. But other emergencies don’t give you enough advanced notice.

 

[zamafir]

For car battery life you seem to have a good scheme.

The fly in the ointment for me is that I also use the V2L to provide emergency power. My household electrical use is pretty low so with some care I can basically go for several days off of the car V2L. But that assumes a pretty full battery pack. Some emergencies, typically weather related, have enough advance notice that I could simply charge to 90% before the event. But other emergencies don’t give you enough advanced notice.

Yup, to each their own.

I've got solar, a 10 kWh home battery, UPS' at all critical stuff and then the IONIQ 5 with V2L so I'd need to be in the middle of a zero sun scenario for days to even need to begin to tap the Hyundai after the home battery was depleted.

 

[Old Willy]

 

[Old Willy]

We have a 2022 Ioniq 5 Limited AWD that was purchased last June. The car has about 11,800 miles, and for the past couple of days I don’t remember seeing the charging light on top of the dashboard that indicates the 12-volt battery is being charged. Yesterday (03/20/2023), I turned the car on and got a warning to check the electrical system. I drove to the nearest Hyundai dealer and was told they didn’t have any appointments until April; however, if I left the car with them, they would try to diagnose the problem within a week. I called another dealer about 30 miles away and got the same story. I asked about a loaner and was told they couldn’t provide a loaner until they determined that it was a warranty problem. How could it not be a warranty problem? The car isn’t quite 8 months old, it appears that the 12-volt battery is not being charged, and I have a warning message that indicates I should not drive the car.
Today it’s Wednesday (03/22/2023) and I got a call from a technician who said he found a problem in the electrical system and ordered a part which should be here in 3 to 5 days. I’m not holding my breath. I think that charging failure, whether it’s the ICCU or something else, might be the major reason for 12-volt battery failure, and not apps discharging the battery.

 

[alexw]

How we work it:
When we come home with the EV, if we have 120 miles left on the guess-o-meter (which to us is accurate for local driving and is inaccurate only when a road trip changes our driving habits), we plug the EVSE into a 240V outlet that's intermittently powered (when our home solar batteries are charged a lot, configurable). This is the one in the photo labeled "green".

If we come home with less than 120 miles on the guess-o-meter or plan to drive a lot the next day, we plug it into the constantly powered 240V outlet (the non-labeled one).
View attachment 48911

You seem to have missed an obvious opportunity to spray paint the junction box cover green!

 

[zamafir]

We have a 2022 Ioniq 5 Limited AWD that was purchased last June. The car has about 11,800 miles, and for the past couple of days I don’t remember seeing the charging light on top of the dashboard that indicates the 12-volt battery is being charged. Yesterday (03/20/2023), I turned the car on and got a warning to check the electrical system. I drove to the nearest Hyundai dealer and was told they didn’t have any appointments until April; however, if I left the car with them, they would try to diagnose the problem within a week. I called another dealer about 30 miles away and got the same story. I asked about a loaner and was told they couldn’t provide a loaner until they determined that it was a warranty problem. How could it not be a warranty problem? The car isn’t quite 8 months old, it appears that the 12-volt battery is not being charged, and I have a warning message that indicates I should not drive the car.
Today it’s Wednesday (03/22/2023) and I got a call from a technician who said he found a problem in the electrical system and ordered a part which should be here in 3 to 5 days. I’m not holding my breath. I think that charging failure, whether it’s the ICCU or something else, might be the major reason for 12-volt battery failure, and not apps discharging the battery.

Folks with horrible times getting dealer appointments should post the city/states so we can get an idea where these issues are. I’ve never had an issue getting an appointment the next day (San Diego, California).

 

[BluePHEV]

Covered in other threads but bluelink let’s me know at least six times a day that the car is unlocked.

It does that right before the car goes back to sleep. That means something is waking up your car.

This was driving me nuts on my GV60, then I figured out that it was the passive unlock with the phone as a key. The car would sense me when I'm walking around the house and would wake up. I've since disabled passive unlock and fixed that issue.

If the Ioniq 5 operates exactly like the GV60, each wake cycle takes 6-8 minutes and causes a 0.1V drop on the 12V battery. If your car is waking up 6 times a day unexpectedly, it is causing quite a severe draw on your battery.

 

[Tell It Right]

You seem to have missed an obvious opportunity to spray paint the junction box cover green!

After I use the plug-in EVSE enough to be sure I like it, I'll buy a 2nd one and keep both of them plugged in. I told my wife I'll put green tape round the one plugged into the outlet that saves us green money. LOL

 

[rbdavis808]

The plot thickens, see here.

I think this makes a bit more sense to me in terms of explaining the source of most folks' problems.

 

[zamafir]

The plot thickens, see here.

I think this makes a bit more sense to me in terms of explaining the source of most folks' problems.

For those TLDW, looks like there is either a third party app querying bluelink too often or an ICCU issues.

Does this mean we shouldn't use recurrent? Or are there other apps that commonly access bluelink? I saw where he recommended changing your bluelink password but not unsubscribing services like recurrent.

 

[cheese711]

For those TLDW, looks like there is either a third party app querying bluelink too often or an ICCU issues.

Does this mean we shouldn't use recurrent? Or are there other apps that commonly access bluelink? I saw where he recommended changing your bluelink password but not unsubscribing services like recurrent.

According to Hyundai USA in the video, the third party app querying Bluelink has been resolved as of 1/31/23 (daily query limit set to 20). It is still recommended to change the Bluelink password (I'm not super knowledgeable, but maybe this is to force a re-authentication that uses the new query limits). It seems Hyundai now believes the 12V battery issues being experienced are from the ICCU issues or from a battery that has been deep-cycled too many times (either from the Bluelink query issue or the ICCU issues).

 

[zamafir]

According to Hyundai USA in the video, the third party app querying Bluelink has been resolved as of 1/31/23 (daily query limit set to 20). It is still recommended to change the Bluelink password (I'm not super knowledgeable, but maybe this is to force a re-authentication that uses the new query limits). It seems Hyundai now believes the 12V battery issues being experienced are from the ICCU issues or from a battery that has been deep-cycled too many times (either from the Bluelink query issue or the ICCU issues).

I reached out to Recurrent, they're aware. What other Apps have third party access to bluelink?

 

[2023 motor trend SUVOTY]

I reported last year, around June, my threshold was about 20%. This is what your pdf shows, yet I continue to read owners claiming if hv battery drops below 35%, aux 12v will not be charged. Maybe due to outdated firmware or they have not applied latest updates. I have owned our i5 since January 2022 with production 11/21 with zero issues.

I too bought my I5 in January 2022, 39,000 miles plus and I had no issues until……….
I started noticing my light on the dashboard showing me my 12 V battery with being topped up by the big battery, was coming on more and more and staying on for longer. The car still drove and did everything normally and fantastically, I might add.
I just thought that I was peeking out in the garage at the exact time the 12 V battery needed to top up and didn’t think much of it until……
August 21 was my ICCU and VCU and software update and brake light logic update appointment with Hyundai. The car bricked out / was completely dead, and would not start (turned into the most beautiful pieces of art that I would gladly have in my living room) at the Pickle Ball Court, Wednesday afternoon.
Thursday and Friday Hyundai said they could not duplicate my issues and gave it back to me and on Saturday morning it was a brick again.
Monday, August 28 they said there was a problem with the car, duh!!!!!! On Tuesday they found a phantom hundred watt drain on the 12V auxiliary battery.
Thankfully they gave me a 2023 I5 SEL AWD loner with 26 miles on it……. So gosh darn fast, mine is rear wheel drive for the 303 miles per charge, which was a minimum requirement for me in buying a Battery Electric Vehicle. Hyundai made me whole, no complaints there.
Saturday, September 9 they had me change my password on my blue link / my Hyundai.
I canceled my recurrent acct, deleted electrify America app, deleted my home charger juice box app, deleted my utility companies app to track my charging…….
I may have deleted a few other apps, just in case.
Supposedly, I get my car back today and it is fixed.

 

[Mikael48]

I canceled my recurrent acct, deleted electrify America app, deleted my home charger juice box app, deleted my utility companies app to track my charging…….
I may have deleted a few other apps, just in case.

That was quite a load on poor 12v battery. The vehicle electronics probably never went to sleep. Each remote poll wakes up the vehicle for almost 1 hour.

 

[jordanamy]

I started noticing my light on the dashboard showing me my 12 V battery with being topped up by the big battery, was coming on more and more and staying on for longer. The car still drove and did everything normally and fantastically, I might add.
I just thought that I was peeking out in the garage at the exact time the 12 V battery needed to top up and didn’t think much of it until……

I've noticed the same, that the 12V battery light is on way more often since when we purchased in Feb 2022, and every time someone posts this question in any of the FB groups/fora it seems like everyone piles on and says "stop looking at the yellow light and worrying about it". I now see the yellow light on when the car hasn't been driven for days (like you I also assume that I just HAPPENED to catch it on). I don't have any hard data but it seems so clear that the charging light is on way more often than it used to be. Anyway, people keep saying "don't worry" but now I am curious if your phantom 100W drain is common.

 

[Dmitry]

I canceled my recurrent acct, deleted electrify America app, deleted my home charger juice box app, deleted my utility companies app to track my charging…….
I may have deleted a few other apps, just in case.

What makes you think that EA application polls the car? It has no reason to, and it does not have access to bluelink.

 

[zamafir]

I now see the yellow light on when the car hasn't been driven for days (like you I also assume that I just HAPPENED to catch it on).

I don't think this is talked about often enough. There's so much this car can do remotely and obviously can be pinged by third party Apps so it makes sense an IONIQ 5 that sits in the garage most the time would have the light on, vs one that's driven daily.