Mmmmm. Bit worrying when his opening statements are false - the 12v does not supply anything itself once the car is on as it is all powered from the HV battery because the 12v battery is being topped up when the car is on. Moving on, this bluelink polling could well be a cause of some failures, but seems unlikely that it is the primary cause for UK cars as I am not sure if we have any apps that do this polling. Moreover, we do know that one other cause seems to be associated with the issue that the 12v is not recharged if the HV battery is less than 35% (although this figure may have been reduce?) as show in the attached Hyundai slide.

 

I reported last year, around June, my threshold was about 20%. This is what your pdf shows, yet I continue to read owners claiming if hv battery drops below 35%, aux 12v will not be charged. Maybe due to outdated firmware or they have not applied latest updates. I have owned our i5 since January 2022 with production 11/21 with zero issues.

 

I too bought my I5 in January 2022, 39,000 miles plus and I had no issues until……….
I started noticing my light on the dashboard showing me my 12 V battery with being topped up by the big battery, was coming on more and more and staying on for longer. The car still drove and did everything normally and fantastically, I might add.
I just thought that I was peeking out in the garage at the exact time the 12 V battery needed to top up and didn’t think much of it until……
August 21 was my ICCU and VCU and software update and brake light logic update appointment with Hyundai. The car bricked out / was completely dead, and would not start (turned into the most beautiful pieces of art that I would gladly have in my living room) at the Pickle Ball Court, Wednesday afternoon.
Thursday and Friday Hyundai said they could not duplicate my issues and gave it back to me and on Saturday morning it was a brick again.
Monday, August 28 they said there was a problem with the car, duh!!!!!! On Tuesday they found a phantom hundred watt drain on the 12V auxiliary battery.
Thankfully they gave me a 2023 I5 SEL AWD loner with 26 miles on it……. So gosh darn fast, mine is rear wheel drive for the 303 miles per charge, which was a minimum requirement for me in buying a Battery Electric Vehicle. Hyundai made me whole, no complaints there.
Saturday, September 9 they had me change my password on my blue link / my Hyundai.
I canceled my recurrent acct, deleted electrify America app, deleted my home charger juice box app, deleted my utility companies app to track my charging…….
I may have deleted a few other apps, just in case.
Supposedly, I get my car back today and it is fixed.

 

Edit … moving to battery replacement thread.

 

Covered in other threads but bluelink let’s me know at least six times a day that the car is unlocked.

 

It does that right before the car goes back to sleep. That means something is waking up your car.

This was driving me nuts on my GV60, then I figured out that it was the passive unlock with the phone as a key. The car would sense me when I'm walking around the house and would wake up. I've since disabled passive unlock and fixed that issue.

If the Ioniq 5 operates exactly like the GV60, each wake cycle takes 6-8 minutes and causes a 0.1V drop on the 12V battery. If your car is waking up 6 times a day unexpectedly, it is causing quite a severe draw on your battery.

 

There is one tweak that not many 5 owners know about. If you plug the V2L dongle into the charge port the car will immediately start to charge the 12v battery from the traction battery - whether the car is switched on or not, or even whether it's locked or not. This a convenient way to top-up the 12v battery without getting your mains charger out.

 

There is one tweak that not many 5 owners know about. If you plug the V2L dongle into the charge port the car will immediately start to charge the 12v battery - whether the car is switched on, or whether it's locked or not. This a convenient way to top-up the 12v battery without getting your mains charger out.

Have you verified that with a dead 12 V battery? If it's a matter of having enough juice to pull in a relay that shouldn't be an issue, but I can also see them having a software lockout if the 12 V battery SOC drops below a certain level.

 

Interesting vid. I remember reading here some time back that Bluelink is free for 3(?) years and then it's a hefty fee to continue. (Anyone know how much?) I suggested that there was only so much an app would likely be involved with, and I couldn't imagine it being too much of a burden living without it. I've never been a fan of tech for tech's sake.

This vid gives me pause. What exactly does Bluelink control that can't be managed without it?

 

This vid gives me pause. What exactly does Bluelink control that can't be managed without it?

Clearly nothing that I can't live without. After reading reports of a suspected Bluelink connection to 12v drain prior to purchase, I have never used it for anything, although our dealer did create an account for us. Folks with past positive experience with a useful car app (e.g., remote lock/unlock, climate pre-con) may feel otherwise, although there doesn't seem to be much of any positive feedback on Bluelink in this forum independent of 12v considerations.

My only concern about non-renewal is possible future inability to get ongoing nav updates, although hopefully USB-update will still work.

 

There have been a number of reports of this Bluelink-related cause of 12v drain here, and it's definitely nice that Hyundai has now (we hope!) cut this off at the source, rather than requiring owners to continue tracking down these rogue apps themselves. It remains to be seen if this will in fact substantially diminish the number of 12v drain problems reported from this point forwards.

 

I tested 12V charging (while parked) on my Kona 64 and found that once under 40% SoC the traction battery only charges the 12V battery daily instead of every 4 hours. It also reverts to daily-only after 56 hours parked.
I don't have Bluelink services (not available here) and my original 12V battery is still performing perfectly in its 5th year.

 

Amazon‘s Alexa has a BlueLink “skill” that lets you use your Alexa devices to issue commands to your I5 (and other Hyundai vehicles). I don’t know about Google or Siri, but I know that Alexa works as I use it.

 

 

We have a 2022 Ioniq 5 Limited AWD that was purchased last June. The car has about 11,800 miles, and for the past couple of days I don’t remember seeing the charging light on top of the dashboard that indicates the 12-volt battery is being charged. Yesterday (03/20/2023), I turned the car on and got a warning to check the electrical system. I drove to the nearest Hyundai dealer and was told they didn’t have any appointments until April; however, if I left the car with them, they would try to diagnose the problem within a week. I called another dealer about 30 miles away and got the same story. I asked about a loaner and was told they couldn’t provide a loaner until they determined that it was a warranty problem. How could it not be a warranty problem? The car isn’t quite 8 months old, it appears that the 12-volt battery is not being charged, and I have a warning message that indicates I should not drive the car.
Today it’s Wednesday (03/22/2023) and I got a call from a technician who said he found a problem in the electrical system and ordered a part which should be here in 3 to 5 days. I’m not holding my breath. I think that charging failure, whether it’s the ICCU or something else, might be the major reason for 12-volt battery failure, and not apps discharging the battery.

 

We have a 2022 Ioniq 5 Limited AWD that was purchased last June. The car has about 11,800 miles, and for the past couple of days I don’t remember seeing the charging light on top of the dashboard that indicates the 12-volt battery is being charged. Yesterday (03/20/2023), I turned the car on and got a warning to check the electrical system. I drove to the nearest Hyundai dealer and was told they didn’t have any appointments until April; however, if I left the car with them, they would try to diagnose the problem within a week. I called another dealer about 30 miles away and got the same story. I asked about a loaner and was told they couldn’t provide a loaner until they determined that it was a warranty problem. How could it not be a warranty problem? The car isn’t quite 8 months old, it appears that the 12-volt battery is not being charged, and I have a warning message that indicates I should not drive the car.
Today it’s Wednesday (03/22/2023) and I got a call from a technician who said he found a problem in the electrical system and ordered a part which should be here in 3 to 5 days. I’m not holding my breath. I think that charging failure, whether it’s the ICCU or something else, might be the major reason for 12-volt battery failure, and not apps discharging the battery.

Folks with horrible times getting dealer appointments should post the city/states so we can get an idea where these issues are. I’ve never had an issue getting an appointment the next day (San Diego, California).

 

The plot thickens, see here.

I think this makes a bit more sense to me in terms of explaining the source of most folks' problems.

 

For those TLDW, looks like there is either a third party app querying bluelink too often or an ICCU issues.

Does this mean we shouldn't use recurrent? Or are there other apps that commonly access bluelink? I saw where he recommended changing your bluelink password but not unsubscribing services like recurrent.

 

I canceled my recurrent acct, deleted electrify America app, deleted my home charger juice box app, deleted my utility companies app to track my charging…….
I may have deleted a few other apps, just in case.

That was quite a load on poor 12v battery. The vehicle electronics probably never went to sleep. Each remote poll wakes up the vehicle for almost 1 hour.

 

I canceled my recurrent acct, deleted electrify America app, deleted my home charger juice box app, deleted my utility companies app to track my charging…….
I may have deleted a few other apps, just in case.

What makes you think that EA application polls the car? It has no reason to, and it does not have access to bluelink.

 

I have found that in my 22 Ioniq 5, the 12v battery is not charging when the car is connected to the level one charger based on battery voltage readings. It is charging when car is functioning in ready mode.

 

Any time charging session is in progress irrelevant to L1 or L2 EVSE it will maintain 12V battery.
If it doesn't when session is in progress your 12V battery will be drained in less than 40 minutes.

 

“Charge” and “maintain” here are also separate. If the car is on, the 12V is getting either charged or maintained at all times, or as HK said, the car dies in a hurry. But the voltage at the battery terminals isn’t necessarily float voltage of >14 when that’s happening. If the car thinks the 12V SOC is high enough, it’ll “maintain” at ~13s volts instead.

 

so, what have we learned?

 

I've learned that the "maintain" voltage of 13.0 is not sufficient to "maintain" the already-damaged OEM Delkor Lead-Acid 12V battery in my '38. This battery is just managing to "survive" on 6 topups daily when sitting outside gge not connected. It gets charged to 12.7V by the regular topup, then falls to 12.6V when the text scheduled test detects low voltage & tops up again for 20 minutes. Repeat ad nauseam.

I plugged in on AC for a 5.5 hour top-up. For the first half hour I got a real charge at 14.7V, then it dropped to "maintain" level of 13.0V for the remaining 5 hours. I unplugged the charger. Voltage immediately dropped to 12.51V, slowly recovering upwards towards 12.7-ish volts. At this point the car went into panic-mode series of 4 x 20-minute-topup-wait-30-minutes-check-again test+charge actions. After the first 3 of these, the battery voltage was falling towards the 12.5 level, hence the next repeat. After the 4th of these, the voltage only fell to 12.69V, so finally back to my usual low-level zone.

It took 4 20-minute charges to recover to "normal" state. If I hadn't done the charge, none of this palaver would have happened.

 

12 Volt Battery Drain and More
My 2022 Ioniq 5 is dead in my driveway (lucky me, not stranded somewhere). The car is 65% charged, but apparently the 12V battery is dead. Because the car is dead, the only way to charge the care is by "jumping" the 12V. Unwilling to do that because the car is still under warranty. Calling the dealer in the AM. They will likely have to send someone out. This is not the only problem I have had with this car. The charger will overheat and stop charging in warm weather (over 75 degrees). The dealer supposedly fixed this last autumn (on the 4th try, not sure they even understood the problem before that), however it happened again this week (first warm day of the year). I'm ready to make them take the car back and give me a new one.

 

A 12V jumbo won't cause warrantee issues, and setting charging to lower speeds, like 32A should take care of any L2 charging issues. Also, there is a recall on the ICCU that may help with both. Git 'er dun!

 

I’m in San Diego and Kearney Mesa Hyundai recently quoted me a week wait time for diagnosis. I came out to Pedder Hyundai in Poway and got same day.

 

I own a 2022 I5 and ran into the 12V battery warning. I took to the dealer here abs they said its the ECIM module and replaced it.. the cost was covered by them and prices for a whooping $1700. I cam back home and after two weeks i get stranded with 12V battery completely dead. I wasnt even using Bluelink since my subscription had expired and no other apps that i used. i am just so sorry buying this car. Wont go EV ever again. Taking it back to the dealer tomorrow here in Chicago area. 😞

 

Did they replace the ECIM or the ICCU per your other post?

Either way your 12V battery was probably already dying/dead when they replaced the ECIM or ICCU.

Get a new AGM battery and you are likely good to go.

(was this the original 12V in the 2022 I5? Any other issues prior to this? Based on this post it is hard to know why you would never get another EV?)

 

My bad they replaced the ICCU unit and they had to back order.. i cant believe its the battery since this is the original 12V battery that came with the car.. even if i get an AGM battrry that wont fix the issue.. its the battery that isnt getting enough charge.. 2 weeks ago they recharged the 12V battery and i havent added more than 400 miles in 2 weeks.. something is out of equation and I am putting Hyundai to seriously look into it. 12V battery replacement wint fix

 

i cant believe its the battery since this is the original 12V battery that came with the car.. even if i get an AGM battrry that wont fix the issue..

It's confusing because the battery is both a symptom and a cause. If the ICCU goes bad, it can drain the 12V flat and that can easily kill a 12V battery that was perfectly healthy the day before. Additionally, the logic that keeps the 12V topped up when the car isn't in use (called Aux Battery Saver +) simply gives up and stops if it decides the 12V battery has a fault, so on Tuesday maybe it's keeping up and the 12V system seems fine then on Thursday it's flat when you try to start the car in the morning, and flat every other time you try to drive after that.

It's not like a dumber car where there are lots of warning signs - this car has systems that help each other in concert when they're working right and then fight each other when they aren't.

All of that to say, now that you have a fresh ICCU it's actually quite possible that replacing your 12V battery polishes off the last of the issues you're having, and AGM is likely to be more robust to those issues than OEM. (Actually I BELIEVE OEM now IS AGM)

 

With Hyundai leaving itself out of the discussion, (rumored to visit and observe this very site, they are stone-cold silent) providing no guidance, investigating no aspects of a solution, declining to upgrade FLA (failed lead-acid) to something, anything appropriate or to modify the cars to match the real world that eGMP 12V's live in, the service centers are SOL here, just like us. If the car does not produce a trouble code the dealers can do nothing unless they, or you, are willing to eat the cost.
If it is indeed the case that even after the ICCU recall update, and including the fresh-off-the-production-line failures, that the fix is not the fix, shouldn't NHTSA revisit that recall? I am pretty sure that "Well, we tried.", is not an adequate response to a recall. Given the 'FLA/AGM/or what else?' confusion shouldn't all eGMP owners at least be advised to NOT replace FLA's with FLA's? They didn't let Ford put "Don't rear-end me. I am a bomb" signs on Pintos and call it a day.
How many model years has this been going on now? If just switching to AGM was a valid fix why doesn't every eGMP come AGM equipped? Brand new vehicles are still failing, too. are they not?
I have seen no urging by Hyundai to switch from FLA. They think it's fixed. Do you?
On another neighboring rant, the 5 and 6 manuals (have not viewed the 9's manual) say the 12V is "calcium-based". AGM batteries are not mentioned.

 

It seems like OEMs such as BYD are finally addressing the old problem of 12V Lead/Acid batteries failing. This report of the latest offering says that the Atto 2 will use the same tech as the main traction battery to handle the domestic voltage for their cars. Hopefully others will follow that lead and finally solve this issue.

 

Just to throw it out there, I had a largely fine experience with 12V issues. My 12V died at home in May 2023 (Jan 22 car). Jumped it, recovered with utility mode, and took it to a dealership shorty after. The very dopey service advisor said the 12V was fine over the phone. I asked about capacity and he said he'd re-test it. Came back with 16Ah remaining of 60Ah. Got a new AGM battery under warranty from the dealership and everything has been fine since.

In retrospect, I think that was basically a stress test and a crappy OEM 12V. It had been in for a different issue and worked on for a few days, so high drain, and then I left the hood open overnight.