PROBLEM SOLVED! My 2017 started exhibiting the same problem - level3 charging error and failure. After some research, I suspected the 12v battery was dying. The little 12v lead acid battery is somewhat of a mystery. When it dies, many odd things can happen, up to the car not starting at all. So I took it to my dealer in Tucson, AZ. They tested the battery and said it was fine. Really? A 5-year old lead acid battery in the desert heat? Not likely. So I asked them to replace it anyway. It took a week to get the battery as it is not something they keep in stock. $391 dollars later, problem solved. The car charges on Level3 at EVGo just fine. Expensive little battery though! P.S. the service manager offered my a job

 

US$391 for a 40Ah battery? WTF! I replaced
one for equivalent of USD75.

 

Leslie, your IONIQ would have come with a 8yr/160,000km warrantee on the battery and drive train. So you'll not be responsible for the repair cost. Time to get a little more assertive with Hyundai. If the technicians say that there is nothing wrong, then take one with you to a nearby DCFC station and ask them to show you how to get it to work! Time to cut their games sort!!!!!

 

My IONIQ only get 7yr/140,000km warrantee!!! And I tried to ask dealership to do the same think you talking about but they are no allow to send one of technicians go with me. And I feel tire to deal with the dealer. On my feeling is they know the issue but can't fix.

 

Leslie, don't let them off. Even if you only have a 7yr/140,000, you're only a ball hair's width over the 140,000km mark. Also, I have friends with MY2017 IONIQs and they all have the 8yr/160,000km warrantee. So unless you got a special deal (lots of money off the purchase price), I don't see why yours would be different. Mine's a MY2018 and I got the 8yr/160,000km deal. Either way, I would push them hard to figure out what the problem is, once they diagnose the issue then you will know how much it will cost to fix and can fight about who's responsible. Until then, your car is flawed and you won't be able to do road trips easily and you don't know if the problem will progress and leave you stranded with no ability to charge at all.

Lastly, if the dealer you're using is incompetent's with EV's, try another dealer. You haven't put your general location in your signature so we don't know where in Canada you're located. Would be good info to have. That way folks on the board could advise on the better and "less better" dealerships for EV in you local area.

 

Ours got a new charging module under the front passenger seat and it fixed our DC fast charging issue. Not a lock pin or 12V related fault, just "Check EV" and doesn't work. But our car had a code stored that pointed them to that module.

 

Yes, that sometimes happens. Usually unplugging and trying again a few times solves the problem. If not, then it's just about always a problem with the DCFC, and not the car. Try another charger unit.

 

I saw that too but it was related to a bad CCS cable. With 5 sifferent stations its likely your CCS port on the car is bad.

To help investigate the problem try lifting the CCS cable upwards while activating the charger. I know they had to do this on the E-tron.

 

Normally I would say press the reset button on the DCFC but if this issue is occurring at 5 different charging stations, then it most likely is the car. Did you visually inspect the charging port on your car to make sure the bottom 2 pins (for DC charging) are not physically damaged or plugged up. If you are able to slow charge (level 1 or 2) then the top 5 pins should be ok. Also, check to make sure you haven't accidentally decreased your charging thresholds too low.

 

had something similar with mine last month at BP 50kwh fast charger, unplugged and warning on charger said CCS fault and unavailable, other 2 cable types ok, tried 2 other BP 50kwh units no problem!

 

I did taid the same thing at more than 5 charge station and keep the same error......

 

Yip, it's sounding like this one is due to a problem with the vehicle. You'll have to take it to a dealer and have them look at it.

 

My vehicle back to dealer now and they said will call me tomorrow. let see.

 

Good luck!!! Keep us posted.

 

Dealership give me a called back, they conldn't find any issue with that. They ask me to go another dealership to check. He only said maybe the DC charger model problem will cost $1200+ CAD for replacment, but they wont guarantee after replace will fix the issue we have now.

 

Dealers not knowing what is up and down are no news. But Isn't this under warranty? Or possibly insurance?

 

And now my IONIQ have click sound when I plugged L1, L2 and DC charger, L1 and L2 still can charge, but DC wont charge. The sound coming from between front fuse box to steering wheel.

 

Hi All

I found a problem but not sure its bacuse that will cost charging issue.

Charging connector auto lock mode issue!!! When I pluged in charger should be locked the cable but no it won't now. I think because safety issue so will deconnet DC charge.

Any one knows how to fix?

 

Not sure I fully understand what you are trying to say but one thing that popped up is the solenoid managing the lock pin. I know some have been replaced. You could maybe disassemble and grease it?

 

I had similar problem recently buzzing sound when trying to charge my 28 Ioniq and not charging on granny cable, took it to Hyundai and they told me it is not the actuator but the car threw up error codes and they have sent a message to Hyundai sth korea to see what to do next. This has happened past 3 months where the charge pin is locked and i also cannot remove the pin after full charge, had to use emergency cable under boot of car - had to pull it to release the charge pin.