@douglas9630 part number is 91999G7310 might be worth taking to dealer to make sure nothing else is going on.

 

If you can get it, most hyundai parts sites say they don't have them anymore, instead forwarding to the newer revision, and some have them as warranty only. Will have to grt it imported from Korea which is double the cost unfortunately

 

Chiz, do you mind me asking where you're located & which dealer you'd worked "with" ti get the part.

 

Thank you!

So I went to the dealership and got the part, spoke to the manager and asked for the guide on how to replace it. They printed it off to me, told me they aren't allowed to give it out but gave me it anyway and strongly recommended that I not do it myself.

When I got home last night I went at it. The guide was a bit different then the one I found online, so I disconnected the main power in both locations to be safe (under trunk matt and the main plug that goes into the battery pack underneath the car).

Took me about 3 hours to complete, but I successfully got it replaced and test today at a fast charge and it worked!! What a relief!

Thanks everyone for the help and input on this thread, anyone that's planning to tackle this and has any questions, feel free to msg me.

 

Hey quick question, what was the part number for your actuator? Currently having issues with mine working right.

 

Here's the post I was looking for where someone actually took apart the charge port and fixed the pin without replacing the actuator. From his pictures, it didn't look like he removed the orange cords, but rather worked on it in place. https://www.ioniqforum.com/threads/...rge-plug-lock-actuator-2017-ioniq-electric-uk.49838/?post_id=605772#post-605772

Again, only attempt this if you are confident and have the safety knowledge about high voltage systems and how to disengage them.

 

Update, part is now in at the dealership, but they are not booking now til Dec 3rd at the earliest.

I may get the part and attempt this again myself.

Frustrating cuz if this doesn't fix it, it'll be a wait til Dec 3rd to find out, and would run me into the dead of winter when I need fast charge the most.

Any members on here familiar with this procedure and can help? Last photo looks like just an easy unclip, maybe I can get that, but the first photo, I am at a loss and don't want to break where its held on.

 

Has anyone on here replaced the Actuator on a 2020 Ioniq? I attempted to check it this weekend, followed the guide I posted, however for the 2020 it is slightly different. I got all the screws and clips out, however 2 spots I could not get and have them circled in the attached pics. The plug+actuator will not drop down for me to work on it as the orange cord is connected to the body. It's almost like I need to get to the other side to unscrew it, but I can't imagine that being the case, got to be an easier way.

If I can figure this out, Ill replace the actuator myself, instead of paying the dealer $200 to do it.

Thanks in advance.

 

I called the manager of the dealership, he checked into it and ensures me that this part is only under warranty up to 60,000km. Says they don't get commission and always push for warranty first.

So, ill have to proceed as it, praying the actuator fixes it.

Found this step by step guide, which others may find helpful. Says 2017 - 2019, but I am sure its the same for 2020, was created prior to 2020.

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2018/MC-10151892-9999.pdf

 

I have the same problem and has done 134,000km. For me it's under warranty and just waiting for the part to arrive and be assembled. Will report back if it worked for me.
Is the warranty different depending on country?

 

hey Chiz, if you're somewhat mechanically inclined, try this first: https://forums.aeva.asn.au/viewtopic.php?t=8115
If it doesn't work, then you can always have them fix it. But it could just need a good wiggle or cleaning.

 

Thank you!!! May give this a try this weekend.

 

I first reported it at 108,000km, I'm currently at 110,000km. I didn't fight with them on it much, but I don't agree with it, I think it should be under warranty, heck, to me it seems they don't even know the root cause yet. I'm saving my receipts. Only in it for $200 so far, but I can see this being lengthly and costly :/

 

Was it over 100k when you reported it. If so then the warranty should cover it. If they don’t think that’s right, sue them. I’m not a fan of sueing at the drop of a hat, but these Hyundai dealers are out of control. I got SO LUCKY to have a good one!

 

Update: dropped the car off for the full day today, picked up end of day. They told me not fixed but made good progress.

Gave me bill for $193 and said work isn't under warranty because it's over 100k (@ 110k now). He said they need an actuator and it would be a lil over a week before it gets in and I can't book an appt til it gets in.

Frustrating.

Then I check the paper work and it says need actuator before can diagnose further, which I do not like, does it even need to be replaced ? Who knows. Here is the paper work from the visit, they did some module updates too.

 

Thank you Vanctour and tsphipps ! My next appointment is Oct 28th, leaving the vehicle there for the day. I feel like the end result will be a part ordered and another trip over to have the work done. Can't wait to get this fixed. Will keep you all updated!

 

EVSE is Electric Vehicle Supply Equipment and PLC is Power-Line Communication, basically the system that allows the car to communicate with the charger to initiate charging and subsequently sends that power to the battery. If they've both failed then it's definitely the same issue as described by DSJONES and absolutely should be covered under warranty if the car is less than 5 years old.

 

I don't know what those cryptic codes stand for on the invoice, but many owners on this forum have experienced the charge port locking pin sticking. This should be covered under warranty. For level 3 DCFC it is imperative that the pin lock the charging cable, it is not needed for level 2 and lower. Hyundai has updated the locking pin mechanism or shape and that has solved the issue for many. So, it is likely the same issue.

 

Thank you very much for the info DSJONES, doesn't sound like many people have encountered this... just my luck lol Fingers crossed they figure it out, doesn't take to long and it's covered under warranty... as I definitely couldn't swing 4K right now LOL

 

This is similar to the ONLY issue I have had in 4 years of ownership with my 2019 28Kw Ioniq. I was getting ready to take a 200-mile trip and had an unexplainable bad feeling. The year before I took the same trip, and everything worked well. I had to charge once each way and that worked fine. But because I had this feeling, I went to one of the local DC charger farms (12 stations) and plugged in. When the charger failed to even recognize my car, I tried ALL the open chargers (6) at that location. None worked.
My home charger was working fine. On to the dealer. They took a look at it and tested it on their charger, and it didn't work. I left the car there and rented an ICE car for the trip.
Three weeks later they called me and said they were getting an engineer from Korea to look at it. The result was replacing the charging circuit from the plug in the rear to the engine area (wherever that terminated). Fortunately it was all under warranty which saved me about $4k.
It now works great and seems to charge faster than it did prior to the repair by a good margin.
I wish you the best of luck getting yours's resolved.