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[DIY]Remove headlight assembly

31K views 21 replies 10 participants last post by  SuckMyIoniq  
#1 ·
If you're doing the lowbeam or highbeam headlight swap, it's probably easier to just remove the entire headlight assembly than trying to reach inside the cramped spaces to pull out the covers, clips etc. Working on connecting everything with the assemblies remove is far easier.

I recommend buying all the bulbs, HID or LED, and hardware you need before you get started. So in my case, I'm doing the parking lights, turn signals, side markers, highbeams and lowbeams.

The process of removing the headlight assembly isn't all that hard. But it's a bit tricky. And you're always worried something is going to break.
I haven't put the assemblies back in yet, so I don't really know how hard it is.

You'll need:

1 - Socket set with 12mm and 10mm sockets. 1/4 drive can do just fine, you don't need a 1/2 drive
2 - Small flathead screwdriver.

Instructions:

1 - At the top of the headlight assembly there's a 12mm bolt. Turn counter-clockwise to remove. Do both sides
2 - At the bottom of the headlight assembly there's 2 X 10mm bolts holding the upper bumper trim to the headlight assembly. Turn counter-clockwise and remove both bolts. Do both sides
3 - Pop out the plastic clips along the the top of the upper bumper trim using the small flathead screwdriver. You need it to be loose so you can play a bit.
4 - Grab headlight and tug upwards until you hear a "clip" noise. That's when it releases from the mount. There are two per headlight, one on the the outer edge near the fender and the other is on the inner edge under the turn signal lamp. When you hear the second "clip", this step is done
5 - Push the headlight assembly up and backwards. This releases it from the bumper. The lower edge of the headlight assembly slips into slots along the top edge of the bumper. As you pull back, it'll release.
6 - The headlight cable needs to be released. Grab it and turn counter-clockwise to unlock. Then you press the release pin, marked with a white dot, and then pull the cable out

Now you can remove the assembly. Just do the same on the other side.

Get to work upgrading your lights. Much easier to do now.


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More to come soon. Including re-assembly instructions.
 
#22 ·
Hi,

I know this is an ancient post, but I've often thought about hiding the awful grey coloured bumper with some sort of wrap, like dark carbon fibre pattern or something. I just came across your post looking for information on the headlights, and I love the look! Did you make a guide on this or anything?
 
#21 ·
If you're doing the lowbeam or highbeam headlight swap, it's probably easier to just remove the entire headlight assembly than trying to reach inside the cramped spaces to pull out the covers, clips etc. Working on connecting everything with the assemblies remove is far easier.

I recommend buying all the bulbs, HID or LED, and hardware you need before you get started. So in my case, I'm doing the parking lights, turn signals, side markers, highbeams and lowbeams.

The process of removing the headlight assembly isn't all that hard. But it's a bit tricky. And you're always worried something is going to break.
I haven't put the assemblies back in yet, so I don't really know how hard it is.

You'll need:

1 - Socket set with 12mm and 10mm sockets. 1/4 drive can do just fine, you don't need a 1/2 drive
2 - Small flathead screwdriver.

Instructions:

1 - At the top of the headlight assembly there's a 12mm bolt. Turn counter-clockwise to remove. Do both sides
2 - At the bottom of the headlight assembly there's 2 X 10mm bolts holding the upper bumper trim to the headlight assembly. Turn counter-clockwise and remove both bolts. Do both sides
3 - Pop out the plastic clips along the the top of the upper bumper trim using the small flathead screwdriver. You need it to be loose so you can play a bit.
4 - Grab headlight and tug upwards until you hear a "clip" noise. That's when it releases from the mount. There are two per headlight, one on the the outer edge near the fender and the other is on the inner edge under the turn signal lamp. When you hear the second "clip", this step is done
5 - Push the headlight assembly up and backwards. This releases it from the bumper. The lower edge of the headlight assembly slips into slots along the top edge of the bumper. As you pull back, it'll release.
6 - The headlight cable needs to be released. Grab it and turn counter-clockwise to unlock. Then you press the release pin, marked with a white dot, and then pull the cable out

Now you can remove the assembly. Just do the same on the other side.

Get to work upgrading your lights. Much easier to do now.


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If anyone has trouble getting the headlight assemblies to pull free from the clips, I undid the clips along the wheel well and a few below the light on the underside as well as one screw holding the front bumper on just the one side I was replacing the assembly. I pulled the front bumper/grill out a bit away from the light and the light pulled free easily after that.
 
#19 · (Edited)
I wish I had searched for this tutorial before I went in blind to remove the headlight assembly this past weekend, it would have been easier reading this. I nicked up the front edge plastic on the bumper where the headlight goes back in with the clips on the bottom of the headlight assembly. What a pain in the bum this was.

Next time I'm duct taping all the edges of where the headlight slots in liberally so I don't scratch anything on disassembly and reassembly next time.

One of the worse designs I'd come across just to change headlight bulbs as there is next to no remove for adult hands to reach inside as the fusebox blocks one side and the other side is blocked off again unless you remove the whole assembly.

To make things easier for next time, I also removed the bottom two mounts that connect to the chassis. The three bolts connecting the headlight assembly up top (on the EV model) should be good enough in securing the headlight stays on. I've gone on the highway and around the city and there is no rattling or noise that I hear, so I'm ok with three top bolts and the omitted/removed lower two mounts.
 
#17 · (Edited)
#14 ·
Got "2534 Diagnostic Tool" app from Hyundai, nothing to adjust in lights - only number of flashes (available in dash menu as well). Of course, it is pretty simplified software, but interesting to explore various sub-systems.
Is it possible to change presets? Like auto-hold and drive mode?
 
#10 · (Edited)
I found an awesome fan-less CANBUS error free LED low beam bulb but it's a bit longer than a regular H7. However due to the headlamp housing, it would need a modified cap that would allow for more length of the bulb. Also how much of a pain is it to remove the entire assembly?

 
#5 ·
That's what I got. No problem, they fit. The retainers from Tamall need to be hacked a bit but they worked. I put some tape to hold the metal ring on the bulb onto the retainer as I was installing them. They have a tendency to pop out too easily.

The wires were super easy to remove from the original retainer. Just push with a flathead screw driver and they pop out. This is much easier to do when you remove the whole headlight assembly.
 
#3 · (Edited)
Thanks for posting, it was a bit more involved than I was expecting. I am after side marker 5W 194 bulb. Would be nice, if you replace it with LED as well and post a picture of the bulb socket and mount as you have light removed. Although, you might have different headlight as mine are HID.

I tried to upgrade turn light bulb (2357) to LED, but it hyper-flashes, only way is to install LED with resistor, but it defeats the reason for LED in my case as it would consume same amount of electrons as halogen. No LED relay option, AFAIK. Will use those to complete conversion: SiriusLED Built-In Resistor 1157 amber bulb

Ahh, just replaced those parking bulbs after partial removal, just removed bolts and top clips and pulled back of the light (at the fender) up and forward, it allowed some clearance to reach the bulb holder and twist it to remove. Forgot to take bulb holder picture, but it looks like a cigar with bulb on one end 2" long and flat end 1" long on other side so you can twist it to lock/unlock. So last halogen bulbs are out. Small, but took too much effort for such a small gain. I would recommend it to determined DIY folks only. Bulbs holder removal and install is done blindly by feel with middle and index fingers on both hands to help to guide holder into opening and twisting. Hope you have long, well coordinated and moderately strong fingers/hands. Also, use non-polarity bulbs so you do not need to guess and complete conversion on first attempt. YITAMOTOR 194 168 LED Bulb Amber, non-polarity
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BTW, my lights did not want to "un-clip" from the mounts (step 4). I did try, but no luck, too much force and no progress - it moves only half way out of bracket and then jams and it takes just too much force - I decided to replace those bulbs with "partial" approach. Most likely needed to detach bumper cover from fender to allow more free play to move light forward to disengage mounts. Like it shown here: HYUNDAI IONIQ 2017 PERSONALIZACIÓN DE FAROS RETROFIT HEADLIGHTS ANTES/DESPUÉS
 
#6 ·
Thanks for posting, it was a bit more involved than I was expecting. I am after side marker 5W 194 bulb. Would be nice, if you replace it with LED as well and post a picture of the bulb socket and mount as you have light removed. Although, you might have different headlight as mine are HID.

I tried to upgrade turn light bulb (2357) to LED, but it hyper-flashes, only way is to install LED with resistor, but it defeats the reason for LED in my case as it would consume same amount of electrons as halogen. No LED relay option, AFAIK

Ahh, just replaced those parking bulbs after partial removal, just removed bolts and top clips and pulled back of the light (at the fender) up and forward, it allowed some clearance to reach the bulb holder and twist it to remove. So last halogen bulbs are out. Small, but took too much effort for such a small gain. I would recommend it to determined DIY folks only.
View attachment 30498

BTW, my lights did not want to "un-clip" from the mounts (step 4). I did try, but no luck, too much force and no progress - it moves only half way out of bracket and then jams and it takes just too much force - I decided just replace with "partial" approach. Most likely needed to detach bumper cover from fender to allow more free play to move light forward to disengage mounts. Like it shown here: HYUNDAI IONIQ 2017 PERSONALIZACIÓN DE FAROS RETROFIT HEADLIGHTS ANTES/DESPUÉS
Side marker W5W and holder. If it doesn't work one way, pull it out, rotate 180 degrees and try again. These bulbs are hard to get too when the headlight assembly is still mounted. A Full or partial removal makes it easier to swap. The holder is pretty much the same type as the flashers.
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After some testing I noticed my turn signals hyper-flash as well. I ordered a different type of 1157 LED and will try again.

As for step 4 I think it was "pull forward and up". Sorry about the confusion.