[KiwiME]

I think I'll wave my orienteering compass around under my 38 BEV - hasn't had any decent use for many years now!

If I could find such an item I'd do the same, although the ceramic magnet pictured will be fairly weak. I might be able to find a compass at a $2 shop.

To add to that, I noticed that the compass in my iPhone reacts to a magnet placed within 1cm of the upper-left corner by blanking the numerical heading display. It must realise that the field is far higher than the Earth's and so just ignores it.

EDIT: to add to the mystery, the poster of the photos (in the technical forum) says that the magnet in the failed gearbox was "without filings".
Given that several people have ordered the Hyundai magnet drain plug from their dealer and found it to be non-magnetic, I have to wonder what's going on.

 

[clayton4115]

Hi can someone please tell me how to check the quality of the oil without doing a full flush and replace? Thanks

 

[SleeperPService]

When I had mine done at a friend's on his hoist they unscrewed the lower plug a little until it flowed slowly to take just over a 10ml sample. Then tightened it up again.

 

[KiwiME]

In today's news from Kona land, we have four more reports of DIY oil changes and one brave soul even poked a camera and then a paperclip (!) into the drain opening to check out the internal magnet, yes, the magnet I thought was missing several months ago.

But here's a surprise - the magnet (the black thing) didn't attract the paperclip and as such doesn't seem to be magnetic.
(EDIT July '24): the magnet has since been proven to be magnetic but it seems that ferrous particles are not retained on the surface. My conclusion a year after this post is that the generous movement allowed in the slot soon rubs off any particles that happen to attach themselves. (END OF EDIT)

That certainly explains everything about why every oil change has returned metal-ladden black oil. Every oil change where a magnetic plug had been added at the prior change returns clean oil.
(EDIT July '24): Bugger, that's not true either! The oil blackens after about 4,000 km (2,500 miles) in most cases, added magnetic plug or not. That appears to be due to aluminium contamination whose source has not been confirmed. However, I don't believe that the blackness is actually harmful. (END OF EDIT)

Adding that the classic Ioniq gear appears to be the same gearbox design, I've leave the conclusion to the audience.

 

[KevininVic]

The plug you want is a Votex DP007 found on Amazon, see below. I wouldn't install any of the cheaper plugs you'll see on Amazon because reliability is paramount.
For oil you can use Redline MT-LV but you'll need 2 qts to make up the required 1.05 litres (or add a drop of any other light GL4 oil you have on hand). There are other suitable oils but that's what people are using in your region.

You can either fill it till overflowing or more elegantly measure out an exact 1.05 L if the car is tilted to the right. I've done this 3 times now on my Kona and I'm trying to do it without making a huge mess.

Be careful tightening the Votex plug because it's more slippery than the crude one Hyundai installs. About 30 ft-lbs seems right.

View attachment 38681
View attachment 38682

Hey now. These say M18. Online says the right size is M14.
Which is it??

 

[KiwiME]

Which is it please??

M18

 

[KevininVic]

M18

Ok! Everything is ordered.

 

[KiwiME]

Just for the record, here is the latest roll-up of used-oil lab analyses provided by global Kona/Niro owners over the past 2 years, fully applicable to the Ioniq. The TL;DR is that changing the oil and using a magnetic plug (or two) will reduce iron contamination but not aluminum contamination - the latter being not directly harmful, IMO, more so just evidence of one or more other design anomalies present.

I'll first note that the PPM numbers are for metals that are fine enough to become part of the oil. Particles over a certain size (3-10 microns) are not included. But large particles won't last long in the presence of spinning bearing and gears and that's why the oil appears visibly cleaner after perhaps the first 20,000 km ( 12,000 miles).

The two graphs at the top are the first oil change at km from new, iron (left) and aluminium (right). In all cases no added magnet plug was present.

The two graphs at the bottom are subsequent oil changes with the change interval in km, iron (left) and aluminium (right). In all cases a magnetic plug (or two) was present since all those owners chose to add them at the first oil change.

All four graphs have linear trendlines applied for viewing convenience but I'm not implying that the characteristic is linear. There's not really enough data for second-plus oil changes to establish a reliable trend but that's the best we have for now.

 

[Paparatsio]

Hi there. Can some one help me. I want to change reduction gear oil on my Ioniq. There are real problem here in Scandinavia to find original oil for it 70w api gl-4 from Hyndai.
But I did found a couple options. Can someone confirm that oil I choose is correct and which one are better? Thanks in advance.

1.Motul

https://www.eurodel.no/girolje-motul-111131?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=PMAX_AllProducts&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiAkoe9BhDYARIsAH85cDPLFz3nqx-cEZY0X6LkJJZcFb_LW8HVhkMiRz441MHrNXJtIrrig3gaAogBEALw_wcB

2. Liqui Molly

https://www.skruvat.no/olje/girolje/girolje-top-tec-mtf-5300-70w-75w-1l-p1856578?CMPID=ppc_google-shopping_google_NO__18140297912_&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiAkoe9BhDYARIsAH85cDOaJssu-PQSBNzDIPXDilaLsHvcrXX3nd5-664lThkByren1gAm9VIaAhisEALw_wcB

 

[tsphipps]

I have bought the Liqui Molly to do this in a couple of months:

 

[Bosson]

If you live in Norway you can just go to Biltema and by Transmissionsolja, helsyntetisk 75W-90, 1 liter - Biltema.se
I have put this one in more than one Ioniq

 

[Paparatsio]

I have bought the Liqui Molly to do this in a couple of months:

I do consider it to.

 

[Paparatsio]

If you live in Norway you can just go to Biltema and by Transmissionsolja, helsyntetisk 75W-90, 1 liter - Biltema.se
I have put this one in more than one Ioniq

Thank you for tips. Maybe it happens that you did found a magnetic plug in Sweden to ? To avoid ordering it from Amazon.

 

[Bosson]

Almost all Volvos have the same M18x1.5, maybe you can find some magnetic one at Mekonomen ore other autopart store

 

[catstevecam]

Thank you everyone for your contributions, wisdom and photos.
Can anyone tell me if the undersides of the 28 and 38 are significantly different? I plan on asking my local (non-Hyundai) garage to complete the oil and drain plug change and will show them the photo of the underside of the 28 drive unit and mention how many bolts and plastic clips they will encounter - unless the 38 is very different . .
After the oil change I will relax for the next 50,000 miles knowing the oil is clean and the magentic swarf has been captured.

 

[HandyAndy]

Can anyone tell me if the undersides of the 28 and 38 are significantly different?

I suspect they're near-as identical. 38 has slightly more powerful motor. I got the dealer to fit my first sump-plug, easy access at the bottom. Filler one is a bit higher up, but easy to find & swap, as you won't have a load of oil gushing out there!

 

[tsphipps]

Thank you everyone for your contributions, wisdom and photos.
Can anyone tell me if the undersides of the 28 and 38 are significantly different? I plan on asking my local (non-Hyundai) garage to complete the oil and drain plug change and will show them the photo of the underside of the 28 drive unit and mention how many bolts and plastic clips they will encounter - unless the 38 is very different . .
After the oil change I will relax for the next 50,000 miles knowing the oil is clean and the magentic swarf has been captured.

The only difference as far as I am aware between the reduction gearbox in the 28 vs the 38, is that the 38 has some additional mounting holes on the top for the additional battery cooling water pump (of course not present in the 28 which is air cooled):

P.S. if you're interested and watch this video from the start (not just the portion I've picked out), make sure you watch part 2 linked in the description where he corrects a couple of errors and provides further info.