My armrests are OK I think.

The current number 1 on my unwanted noise hit parade is something that sounds like a plastic piece flexing or perhaps two pieces rubbing together, coming from the void between the top of the glove drawer and the bottom of the dash on the passenger side. At first I thought it was something in the drawer or even the drawer itself, but I've eliminated both of these possibilities.

 

Are you 100% certain it's not the passenger side door handle? The sound bounces around in the cabin and can be hard to pinpoint sometimes. I was sure that my sound was coming from the seatbelt area when I was sitting next to the damn armrest/door handle when in fact it was the armrest/door handle all along.

 

I asked my son to listen out for the rattle on the return school run trip yesterday. After a few minutes he declared that he couldn’t hear anything and gave me a look like I was mad. He’s actually taking driving lessons at the moment so I detoured to a local private road so he could drive and I could sit in the passenger seat and listen for it. After a few runs up and down the road with me tugging and pressing all sorts of random trim I could hardly hear it either. Last night on a supermarket run it was rattling away merrily.

I’ve been out to have another look today and I finally ended up in the front passenger footwell and there’s a section where the floor mats and carpet ends but before the lower part of the dash begins that has lots of exposed cables, wires and brackets running through it. I think this is where my rattle is coming from and when there is someone sat in the passenger seat with their feet on the floor, this is suppressing it somewhat. That’s why it sounds worse when it’s just me in the car.

I stuffed an old microfibre cloth amongst it all and it does seem to have reduced it somewhat but not eliminated it entirely. I’ll have another go at it tomorrow.

 

Okay, good luck. With all rattles, you can hear them best when the interior is cold (physics baby!), so a tip is - go into the car when it's completely cold, do not pre-heat it and then try to find some bumpy road right next to your home. Using this technique you should have the best chance of success.
For the armrest/door handle it's super easy to check if it's that or not (can do it even alone if you have enough reach and it is safe). If you push toward the door on the most rearward bit of the armrest just before the door ends and hold it like that, then the rattle should instantly completely disappear. If it keeps rattling it's something else.

 

You can locate rattles whilst parked if you use a tone generator (such as linked below). Play the tone through the car stereo (change frequency to suit) and the rattle will start. Will mean you can locate rattle without having to drive and reach the passenger side. This is how I located the arm rest rattle.

‎Sonic Pitch Sound Generator

‎Sonic Wave provides sine tones and you could easily control the exact frequencies. Swipe your finger up and down to raise or lower the frequency of the tones, and directly check the frequency by professional wave visualization. What can I use it for? 1. Use Sonic Wave to generate different...

apps.apple.com

 

If the subwoofer is strong enough then that should work well. I think you'll have trouble to stimulate the tailgate rattle with this though, as that requires some body flex to make the worst noises.
But for the armrest rattle indeed, this is a great idea.

Well hey, that's at least one thing that the Bose is good for. Better rattle finding

 

I did download and try the tone generator but didn’t have much luck with it. I only have the standard audio in my Premium so maybe it’s not man enough for the job.

In other rattle news though I have eliminated the one at my right ear which I thought was coming from the seat belt housing. It was actually coming from the rear armrest. I gave this a bit of a shove and the rattle stopped at once. No doubt it will return as it gradually works its way loose again, but at least I know the source of it now.

I‘ve had a further hunt for the footwell rattle and I now think this is coming from the void behind the cubby that contains the USB socket that is used for Carplay. There’s a few chunky parts back there and I think one of them may have been rubbing against the back of the cubby. The trusty microfibre cloth has been duly stuffed in and so far that seems to have done the trick.

 

So I think I have found a rattle that, while similar, is not identical to those described in this thread. So exciting.

It's a slight rattling sound coming from the doors. You can hear it on uneven roads, but increasingly also on motorways. It sounds like someone tapping extremely quickly on rubber. The sound is not loud but it is clearly noticeable. Particularly on the passenger's side, in ear height...

The sound goes away when pulling or pushing at the door.

I took it to the dealer and they added some lubricant to the rubber seal. Which sort of works, but not always and only for a short time. I also tried to insert some paper between the rubber and the metal of the door, to remove possible vibrations, but I don't think that worked.

Ideas?

Edit: I've described a solution that worked for me below.

 

So I think I have found a rattle ... So exciting.
It sounds like someone tapping extremely quickly on rubber.
The sound goes away when pulling or pushing at the door.

Ideas?

Have you ever seen 'The Twilight Zone - Nightmare at 20,000 feet'?

 

If you think it is a rubbing from door to frame, try putting a fleece/thick flannel blanket that will cover the whole area between door and frame and close the door tight... go for a ride.
If the noise is still there then it's not a rubbing issue.......... sorry that is the best I got for trying it out to eliminate one thought.

On my Bolt I had the screws that attached the rubber on the door frame a bit loose. Go around and tighten them all first... drive... if still there try the blanket thing and see if that works.

 

Stupid question probably, but are you sure its not the seat belt buckle rattling against something?

 

It’s a valid question but yes, I’m sure it’s not that. It’s got to do with the doors or the frame, likely the sealing.

If you think it is a rubbing from door to frame, try putting a fleece/thick flannel blanket that will cover the whole area between door and frame and close the door tight... go for a ride.
If the noise is still there then it's not a rubbing issue.......... sorry that is the best I got for trying it out to eliminate one thought.
On my Bolt I had the screws that attached the rubber on the door frame a bit loose. Go around and tighten them all first... drive... if still there try the blanket thing and see if that works.

Thank you. I will try the blanket idea - good for troubleshooting but not as a permanent solution.
But I can’t sem to find any screws…?

 

Unscrewing the bump stops worked for me. Saved a lot of trouble looking for other reasons!

 

About the B-pillar rattles: It seems to be the door panels that rattle a lot. Especially on the right hand side of the car. I've noticed that the rattling gets less when the temperature rises. When having 1-7 degrees Celsius, the rattling is far more noticable. When above 15 degrees Celsius, I almost do not have any rattling of the doors. My dealer has made a quality and tech report (whatever that might mean) and have now the permission of Hyundai Belgium to inspect the car (on 28th of march). They seem to have got a stepwise instruction to deal with it. Will keep you updated when my car has passed via the dealer.

 

My rear right and front left door both rattle every now and again. When I’ve had enough of it I give them both some pushing and pulling and that stops it for a while until they work their way loose again.

 

Sounds exactly like the issue I had. Solved it like this, link to post: Day 1 - a bloody rattle

 

I found best place for felt tape is where the two parts of the door panel meet. Solved my rattle. I cut the tape flush with the door panel after so its not noticeable. I did have to pull a few screws out of the door and pop the panel back with a door panel tool. Then put the felt tape down then pressed the door against it and reinstalled panel. Mine would go away with pushing on the arm rest. I could get it to rattle hitting the door with my hand and moved my ear around until I found that was the source of the rattle

 

Thank you a million times for posting this, Trider. I had the same issue on multiple doors and it was driving me crazy (and of course, the dealer claimed they couldn't hear it). I followed your advice and it fixed the issue. Thank you!

 

My dealer added some washers to the rubber bumpers on the tailgate which fixed the rattle for me - they said it was common

 

Do you have a picture of the rubber washers they added?

 

This is what one of them looks like, not entirely sure what's going on

 

Hmmmm..that looks like a quality item that should last for years....

 

I had this tiny on again/off again rattle in the rear. I don't think this one was the hatch.
Do you all see the 4 loops to hook some kind of aftermarket netting on ? on the lower sides? I put mine sticking straight out and have not heard that small rattle I noticed the other day. One of the hooks wiggled when I played with it and that was why I tried it. I need to listen again tomorrow on the ride into work and see if it's gone.

But hey, try it. Takes 2 seconds and you don't mess anything up

 

Check your seat belts in the back seat, if the shoulder straps don't lay flat they rattle. Hopefully that is the issue you are having.

 

I may have a rattle coming from the passenger seat. When the road is bad, it looks as if the upper part of the passenger seat moves or vibrates laterally from left to right. But the seat seems tight and firm, I wonder if it's the seat or a cable under the seat hitting metal ? Anybody has this issue ?

 

On the hatch rattle-fix - One thing I did was get a white paint pen and put a small mark on both the barrel that screws out and the body that it screws into when it's fully screwed in.
Makes it easier to watch that both sides are then both screwed out the exact same amount - which I have found is helpful stopping the hatch rattle.

 

I have the same problem on my Ioniq 5 from new. It started when I drove out of the showroom over a bump! It has been back to the dealers twice but they have not found what is causing it. They are waiting for information from Hyundai. So annoying as the rest of the car is so good.

 

Thank you everyone for your contributions to this thread! I didn't hear the sound until immediately after I installed the trailer hitch wiring kit. So I assumed that I had not done something properly or had omitted something important. But sure enough: the combination of winding the stops out and cleaning the door seal did the trick. For now, at least!

 

Hi evryone.
So after 8 months struggling with the trunk rattling problem i think I finally got it solved.
So yes, the 2 stoppers on the trunk door need to be adjusted and it solved almost all the problem…. But it was coming back sometimes.
yesterday i was at my hyundai dealer and asked uf they had a solution from hyundai and he said still no.
But he told me another owner did another mod and it seems to have resolved the problem for good.

so here is the solution. You need to buy 4 bolt washers ( i bought those that do not rust) to the trunk door. 2 on each side like here.

and this solved the problem. No more noise at all!!!!!
Drove the car on bumps bad road etc… just to see if noise would come back. But no, the car sounds perfect now finally!!

i don’t understand why hyundai techs or engineers were not able to diagnose and come up with this solution and that it took people like us to try and fix there problem.

i hope this suits you well.

 

Be careful when tightening those bolts, they seem to be made of infant boogers and will strip if overtorqued even a little. Worse yet, the socket threads are cut straight into the sheet metal and will also strip, prompting a fun rethreading project. Ask me how I know.

 

Copying my response from another thread in case anyone’s tailgate’s inner percussionist is coming out to play for the same reasons:

So…I think I solved my tailgate rattle.

I’ve had a progressively louder knocking and, eventually, squeaking rattle when going over uneven road surfaces for a while. I tried many of the common fixes:
- adjusting tailgate screw-in bumpers (to the point that the latch struggled),

• adding thicker washers under the rectangular bumpers higher up in the opening to get them to protrude more,
• adding thicker washers to the strike plate,
• wrapping latch in thick film
• adding foam padding in the latch compartment and around the tailgate mouth.

No fix.

Went to the dealer, they first “reseated the tailgate”, then ordered a whole new plastic trim panel because it was “inside the trim”.

A while ago, I noticed I can cause a similar rattle by “jigging” the tailgate up and down and side to side by hand when it’s open. When I did this, he noise was coming from the power lift gate strut mounting points. On a whim, I decided to try lubricating them, and suddenly, no more knocking.

Turns out, sand and dust got into the joints between the motorized trunk struts, the car body, and the tailgate assembly. I blew them out with compressed air and added a bit of silicone grease to each joint and to the strut cover edges were they slide into one another.

Voila, silence.

 

I have been trying to solve the rattle since the car was new, almost 1 year now!
Having adjusted boot stops etc all solutions seemed to work initially then clunking came back.
My conclusion today is that it is 'play' in the powered strut that opens and closes the boot.....I found that when the boot was open, grasping the handle and moving the boot up and down slightly caused the same noise from the strut....a mechanical clank noise.
So yes adding spacers etc does change the movement of the boot when closed but the strut can still rattle......I have now tried some spray grease to inside the strut.....probably upset the dealer if they knew......still waiting to see if I have found a solution to the noise.
Othewise, nearly a perfect car!
Bob

 

After many attempts to find and resolve the rattle/clunking noise, and after many adjustments of the tailgate stops etc. I have found the problem that caused my noise and a solution.
I seems to be the powered tailgate strut that does the opening and closing…….and a piece of large pipe insulation on the static part has fixed the problem. See photo …..also a small piece on the unpowered strut.
Bobo

 

Car developed a rattle from the rear so first check was rear seat belts, all ok. This morning I discovered that the right hand tailgate strut, unlike the left hand strut, can be rattled by hand. See video clip.

Tailgate Struts

Visit to the dealer for rectification is next course of action.

 

Another mini story of a rattle that was starting to drive me nuts. This one was coming from the passenger seat when it was unoccupied. I only really noticed it after the best part of a year of ownership, but it gradually got worse. If I bashed the seat a few times it usually stopped, but I'd resigned myself to having to take it to the dealership to have it looked at, probably for some fixings that had worked loose. Before making the call I had a good go over it and just happened to look at the seatbelt clasp. Now, lo and behold, there was a felt pad stuck to the clasp, which presumably was to stop the potential for rattling against the plastic of the seat. But - it had been stuck on the OUTside of the clasp. Duh! Once peeled off and moved to the inside of the clasp... no more rattle. FGS. Worth checking if you've started getting a rattly passenger seat!

 

I just keep ALL seatbelts fastened when no one is in them.