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Day 1 - a bloody rattle

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#121 ·
Eh4ioniq5 said:
Hi evryone.
So after 8 months struggling with the trunk rattling problem i think I finally got it solved.
So yes, the 2 stoppers on the trunk door need to be adjusted and it solved almost all the problem…. But it was coming back sometimes.
yesterday i was at my hyundai dealer and asked uf they had a solution from hyundai and he said still no.
But he told me another owner did another mod and it seems to have resolved the problem for good.

so here is the solution. You need to buy 4 bolt washers ( i bought those that do not rust) to the trunk door. 2 on each side like here.

View attachment 45535


and this solved the problem. No more noise at all!!!!!
Drove the car on bumps bad road etc… just to see if noise would come back. But no, the car sounds perfect now finally!!

i don’t understand why hyundai techs or engineers were not able to diagnose and come up with this solution and that it took people like us to try and fix there problem.

i hope this suits you well.
Click to expand...
I just had to use the same fix. I am in PA and it is now in the 20s and 30s here so I am not sure if that has anything to do with the noise starting but this seems to have fixed it. Oddly enough, I had the same issue with a Kia Stinger a few years ago with a trunk rattle caused by a similar looking part that also needed some washers.
 
#122 ·
Another mini story of a rattle that was starting to drive me nuts. This one was coming from the passenger seat when it was unoccupied. I only really noticed it after the best part of a year of ownership, but it gradually got worse. If I bashed the seat a few times it usually stopped, but I'd resigned myself to having to take it to the dealership to have it looked at, probably for some fixings that had worked loose. Before making the call I had a good go over it and just happened to look at the seatbelt clasp. Now, lo and behold, there was a felt pad stuck to the clasp, which presumably was to stop the potential for rattling against the plastic of the seat. But - it had been stuck on the OUTside of the clasp. Duh! Once peeled off and moved to the inside of the clasp... no more rattle. FGS. Worth checking if you've started getting a rattly passenger seat!
 
#123 ·
BradDBL said:
Another mini story of a rattle that was starting to drive me nuts. This one was coming from the passenger seat when it was unoccupied. I only really noticed it after the best part of a year of ownership, but it gradually got worse. If I bashed the seat a few times it usually stopped, but I'd resigned myself to having to take it to the dealership to have it looked at, probably for some fixings that had worked loose. Before making the call I had a good go over it and just happened to look at the seatbelt clasp. Now, lo and behold, there was a felt pad stuck to the clasp, which presumably was to stop the potential for rattling against the plastic of the seat. But - it had been stuck on the OUTside of the clasp. Duh! Once peeled off and moved to the inside of the clasp... no more rattle. FGS. Worth checking if you've started getting a rattly passenger seat!
Click to expand...
I just keep ALL seatbelts fastened when no one is in them.
 
#124 ·
RLS said:
After many attempts to find and resolve the rattle/clunking noise, and after many adjustments of the tailgate stops etc. I have found the problem that caused my noise and a solution.
I seems to be the powered tailgate strut that does the opening and closing…….and a piece of large pipe insulation on the static part has fixed the problem. See photo …..also a small piece on the unpowered strut.
Bobo View attachment 46353
Click to expand...
Car developed a rattle from the rear so first check was rear seat belts, all ok. This morning I discovered that the right hand tailgate strut, unlike the left hand strut, can be rattled by hand. See video clip.

Tailgate Struts

Visit to the dealer for rectification is next course of action.
 
#125 ·
Silverage said:
I hate rattles in cars. I collected my Ionic 5 Premium this morning, drove it the 12 miles home and all was well. Very impressed. I got my day’s work done and I thought I’d take the new car out for a run round the local lanes. I spent about an hour setting everything up and loading the carrier bag of miscellaneous car bits that I’d taken out of my old car yesterday into the Ionic.

No sooner do I get going and there’s a damn rattle coming from the boot. Marvellous. My first thought was that it must be something I’d put in or moved about in that underfloor area. I’ve progressively removed things until there is nothing in the boot at all and the rattle is still there. I’ve even taken out the parcel shelf thing and the false floor itself. I don’t think it is coming from the back seats or the seatbelts, so I’m at a bit of a loss.

I’m sure it wasn’t there on the way home this morning but I don’t see what I could have done to introduce it. I can’t be having this on a brand new car so it looks like I’ll be taking it back tomorrow!
Click to expand...
the charge cable is back there could that be it
 
#127 ·
My dealership told me May 1st there was no TSB for the trunk rattle and that Hyundai had no timeframe for when to expect one....
Well, thanks to another thread on this forum, I was able to give them TSB number 23-BD-006H, and sure enough they found that TSB from April. They ordered the washers for me, but the concerning thing is that it also directs them to hit the "tailgate striker" with a hammer 5 times! It says to use "moderate force" with the hammer. I feel like I'm taking a big chance that the mechanic will know what is "moderate force." Crossing my fingers that this will work!
I have attached the TSB.
 

Attachments

#129 ·
Lin19687 said:
AGAIN, get some Black Electrical tape and wrap the silver part where the latch is on the bottom of where the hatch latches..... THIS WORKS !
Seriously people, just do it and stop complaining !
Click to expand...
Can confirm, makes a big difference. However I found more than one wrap and the hatch wouldn't close, so go light on the tape.
 
#130 ·
WillyC said:
My dealership told me May 1st there was no TSB for the trunk rattle and that Hyundai had no timeframe for when to expect one....
Well, thanks to another thread on this forum, I was able to give them TSB number 23-BD-006H, and sure enough they found that TSB from April. They ordered the washers for me, but the concerning thing is that it also directs them to hit the "tailgate striker" with a hammer 5 times! It says to use "moderate force" with the hammer. I feel like I'm taking a big chance that the mechanic will know what is "moderate force." Crossing my fingers that this will work!
I have attached the TSB.
Click to expand...
If you hit it and the hammer goes through the floorboard, then you know "moderate force" was something less than what you just did.
 
#132 ·
WillyC said:
My dealership told me May 1st there was no TSB for the trunk rattle and that Hyundai had no timeframe for when to expect one....
Well, thanks to another thread on this forum, I was able to give them TSB number 23-BD-006H, and sure enough they found that TSB from April. They ordered the washers for me, but the concerning thing is that it also directs them to hit the "tailgate striker" with a hammer 5 times! It says to use "moderate force" with the hammer. I feel like I'm taking a big chance that the mechanic will know what is "moderate force." Crossing my fingers that this will work!
I have attached the TSB.
Click to expand...
ironically, when I brought my US '23 limited in for a 'groaning noise that sounded like the rear motor might be trying to tear free from its mounts' (my thoughts, not theirs) they responded with 'known issue, rear hatch fit-kit on order', so I think this TSB has migrated from unknown to 'new fixAll' at least in some markets...
 
#134 ·
#135 ·
I discovered yet another source for the rear interior rattle-- the pneumatic lifts for the rear hatch. I finally isolated it by first laying in the back while my wife drove around, and then parking and opening the rear hatch and quickly 'bouncing' the rear up and down. Not sure if there's much of a fix-- the larger tube of the pneumatic lift had just enough play around the smaller cylinder to rattle a bit.
 
#136 ·
Photobird7 said:
I discovered yet another source for the rear interior rattle-- the pneumatic lifts for the rear hatch. I finally isolated it by first laying in the back while my wife drove around, and then parking and opening the rear hatch and quickly 'bouncing' the rear up and down. Not sure if there's much of a fix-- the larger tube of the pneumatic lift had just enough play around the smaller cylinder to rattle a bit.
Click to expand...
Damn that sucks. Do you have the washer fix placed in?
 
#137 ·
roach911 said:
Anybody in Canada have the TSB details.? I can't find any dealerships in Toronto GTA area that have the washer parts.
Click to expand...
My car was just in for the ICCU and VSU updates/recalls and I mentioned the trunk rattle. My invoice had the following:

J# 7+30HYZZ000 GENERAL DIAGNOSIS UNITS: 0.00 TECH(S):189 WARRANTY
Added Operation (11/07/2023 09:49)
COMPLAINT: RATTLE WHEN DRIVING OVER BUMPS.
ALL SPEEDS
CAUSE: LATCH WASHERS
CORRECTION: TSB AVAILABLE PARTS ON BACK ORDER
JOB# 7 TOTALS------------------------------------------------------------
JOB# 7 JOURNAL PREFIX HYCS JOB# 7 TOTAL 0.00

Not terribly helpful. However, forum members to the rescue!


I was told the washers are on back order and that I'll have to wait somewhere in the range of weeks to months. For washers 😂.
 
#140 ·
DrClank said:
My car was just in for the ICCU and VSU updates/recalls and I mentioned the trunk rattle. My invoice had the following:

J# 7+30HYZZ000 GENERAL DIAGNOSIS UNITS: 0.00 TECH(S):189 WARRANTY
Added Operation (11/07/2023 09:49)
COMPLAINT: RATTLE WHEN DRIVING OVER BUMPS.
ALL SPEEDS
CAUSE: LATCH WASHERS
CORRECTION: TSB AVAILABLE PARTS ON BACK ORDER
JOB# 7 TOTALS------------------------------------------------------------
JOB# 7 JOURNAL PREFIX HYCS JOB# 7 TOTAL 0.00

Not terribly helpful. However, forum members to the rescue!


I was told the washers are on back order and that I'll have to wait somewhere in the range of weeks to months. For washers 😂.
Click to expand...
 
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