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Charging Current Levels

5.4K views 9 replies 8 participants last post by  Jim Hugh  
#1 ·
Anyone else notice this?

In past, when I would go to EV...then to AC settings...AC Charging Current the three options used to say minimum-reduced-maximum. So when I wanted to go from 40 amps to 32 amps I would choose reduced.

Now that screen shows this below...anyone else have that changed?
Image
 
#3 ·
Ah, so I think this is based on the car's capability... in other words, eGMP models have 48A on board chargers, so 90% would be ~43A, and 60% would be ~29A. Of course, it would never be more than the EVSE is capable of delivering, so likely on a 40A EVSE, the 90% setting would accept the EVSE's offer of 40A.

Regardless, 60% is probably fine for most folks if they charge daily. In the past, I used my L1 cord that came with my Bolt EV and used a 240V adapter (home made) so it would charge at 240V/12A. That was generally enough to add 120-130 miles overnight, which happened to be my daily commute distance. That is a bit more than most of us need for daily commuting I suspect.

The utility at my new home that will be completed in a few months offers a demand charge Time Of Use rate plan. Fortunately, the demand charge is only applied to the peak amount of energy I would use during peak rate periods, so charging in off-peak it wouldn't matter. But at 29A, I would come just under the 7kW threshold that would put me into a higher demand charge fee. My EVSE (Grizzl-e) has dip switches that can turn down the output down to 16, 24, 32, 40A, so I will likely set it to 24A and leave the car settings at 100% for trips.
 
#8 ·
If it's the latest (WiFi-connected) Tesla Wall Connector, you should be able to adjust the amperage using the Wall Connector's app (which I believe is the same Tesla app that Tesla uses for everything else). That said, I don't know how difficult or easy such a change would be. Earlier versions of the Wall Connector have a DIP switch or dial under the front cover to enable adjusting the amperage. That would obviously be less convenient if you need to make frequent changes; but if the EVSE is wired to a circuit that can only provide a lower amperage, making the adjustment on the EVSE side (whether done through a physical control or an app) is much safer than adjusting it via the car.