[Flybuddy]

I already had an existing 14-30 circuit in my garage, so, to leverage that, I ended up going with a Splitvolt 30 amp charger (24 amp capped output). It was affordable ($300) and has been reliable thus far (charge cable never gets hot). I use an RVMate splitter ($50) to share the circuit with my dryer. I’m careful to ensure the car charger isn’t plugged into the I5 when I run the dryer.

A low-budget solution, but it does the job.

I had same issue as already having had a 30 amp dryer type plug in garage that I had been using to charge prior car (Tesla). I just bought the SplitVolt also as it'll charge at 24 amp vs 16 amp on normal 30 amp chargers.

Amazon.com: Splitvolt 24A NEMA 10-30 EV Charger with 16 ft Cord, Level 2 240V, Fastest NEC-Safe 30 Amp Circuit Charging, J1772 Plug, Includes EVSE Cable Travel Bag : Automotive

Buy Splitvolt 24A NEMA 10-30 EV Charger with 16 ft Cord, Level 2 240V, Fastest NEC-Safe 30 Amp Circuit Charging, J1772 Plug, Includes EVSE Cable Travel Bag: Battery Chargers - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

 

[rpeesel]

I am lucky enough to have a 200amp panel in my shop. I plan on putting a new subpanel in to support my charger. Electricity calcs are not my forte. What is the fastest charger I can install? It will be hardwired.

 

[hpark21]

I am lucky enough to have a 200amp panel in my shop. I plan on putting a new subpanel in to support my charger. Electricity calcs are not my forte. What is the fastest charger I can install? It will be hardwired.

Depends on your budget and how much you can "safely" spare from 200Amp panel.
That said, I BELIEVE Ioniq 5 does NOT benefit beyond 11KW AC supply so I would think 48AMP (220v * 48A = 10.5KW) which needs 60AMP circuit is probably the fastest you can charge.

Just get a well rated 48A charger and you should be good. I think Juicebox 48 is well rated -I did order Juicebox 40 from Costco at $550. Tesla Wall charger is well rated and I think it is good price even considering price of adaptor (around $100-$150), bargain at $400 - I do not know how long it takes for you to get one though.

48A charger usually needs to be hard wired - not that it is a bad thing - which means they are NOT portable. While 60A plug DO exists (NEMA 14-60), it is VERY rare so there really is no point in taking the charger with you anyways. If portability is important then my suggestion would be to get a 40 AMP portable ones with variable amperage and 14-50 plug and 14-50R to 14-30 plug adaptor since MOST EV "Outlets" are 14-50 and many RV camp sites tend to have 14-30 outlets and in a pinch, most homes would have 14-30 outlets for electric dryers which you can utilize with long extension cord if you are at a friend's place and need some juice to get to DCFC location in a pinch. Remember, when using 14-30 outlets, set your charger's output to 24A setting to not overload the circuit. Even at 24A, it charges at 5KW which should give you about 15 miles per hour of charge.

 

[Swingpure]

I found this to be an interesting thread and also watching the State of Charge You Tube videos on EVSE reviews has been helpful. There are a number of good choices.

The Grizzl e Classic seems to be the best value, a very solid EVSE, at a good price and the Grizzl e Smart scored extremely high on the State of Charge scoresheet.

Chargepoint is a very good one and along with the Wallbox, both will send all of the 48 amps that the I5 can accept.

The Wallbox looked pretty good to me. The State of Charge does not like the Wallbox cable if you live in cold climates, which I do, but my EVSE will be stored in a heated detached garage, so that will not be as big as factor for me.

Since my I5 is still two years away, (hopefully less), I am sure there will be other options or improvements to existing ones. If I had to chose now, I would be trying to decide between the Grizzl e Classic and the Wallbox.

I am a planner and I have an electrician friend coming over to help me decide how I can best hook it up. My garage is a detached garage. I do have 200 amp service in the garage, but I also have a combo meter based panel right beside the garage, which I may draw off of. I want to be wired so that I can have 60 amp circuit breaker to give me the most options for charging.

I totally understand that 40 amps going into the I5 more than meets 99% of my needs, but if I can have 48, that is perhaps a little better.

 

[Yaric]

I have non-standard 14-30 240V outlet. Right now I am connecting OEM charger to it using adapter. This gives me reasonable 2.8kw/h or 30% per night. It was good for one car for 5 years.
After purchasing second electric car I decided to upgrade it. Installing 50A outlet is 1000$ and not in my budget. I still decided to buy Grizzl-e with 40A max charge, but limit it to 24 in existing 14-30 outlet doubling current charge speed. Yes I will need another adapter to 14-50, but it is cheap on aliexpress.

There is no reason to buy 24A charging unit. This Grizzl-e will be also my travel charger. Last month I landed into airnb house with 50A outlet and struggled with OEM charger speed, on driving trip its better have most powerful charger ready. (Nearest fast charger was 150km away.)

 

[Swingpure]

Just trying to get my math right. The cord that comes with the I5 will charge the Ioniq 5 at a rate of 3 to 5 miles range per hour. I thought I read on this forum that with a 120 to 240 adapter, you can plug in the cord that comes with the car, into a 240 source and that will then double the charging power so it could charge the I5 at a rate of 6 to 10 miles an hour. If 90% of the time, we drive 50 miles or less, that would mean that I could charge the car back to 80% in 5 to 8 hours, plugged into a 240 source.

Is that math correct in the real world?

I will get a level 2 charger, but knowing the above information strangely will help me make a few decisions.

Thanks

 

[prescorla]

Just trying to get my math right. The cord that comes with the I5 will charge the Ioniq 5 at a rate of 3 to 5 miles range per hour. I thought I read on this forum that with a 120 to 240 adapter, you can plug in the cord that comes with the car, into a 240 source and that will then double the charging power so it could charge the I5 at a rate of 6 to 10 miles an hour. If 90% of the time, we drive 50 miles or less, that would mean that I could charge the car back to 80% in 5 to 8 hours, plugged into a 240 source.

Is that math correct in the real world?

I will get a level 2 charger, but knowing the above information strangely will help me make a few decisions.

Thanks

Check the label on the side of 120v charger. Mines has 120v input. The ones talked about have 120v-220v input on the label. Worst it will do is let the smoke out. The only voltage dependant part in the charge would be the relay that connects the power when the car signals it to. I would not do that without checking the insides of the charger

 

[Tom_P]

i purchased the Grizzl-e 40 amp to charge my RWD, can anyone reply how long does it take to charge your car?
50 amp breaker, having a plug installed below the box rather than hard wiring. Thanks!

25 to 30 miles / hour is what I have read at 40 A.

 

[Rich5]

For our needs we don't need to charge fast and then get back in the car. We have the Grizzl-e set at 24 amps and that's plenty to get up to 80% overnight.

 

[prescorla]

For our needs we don't need to charge fast and then get back in the car. We have the Grizzl-e set at 24 amps and that's plenty to get up to 80% overnight.

We have been doing the same thing. At 24amps it will do from just under 20% to 80% usually just under 8hrs. If I want to speed it up I change the Grizzl-e to 32amps knocks a couple hours off. Do have 60amp supply to the garage but just a 40amp in the garage at the moment. Will be changing it to 50amp when I get around to it. If you are parked at home each night the 24amps is plenty. If you need a rush fill up just find a local DC charger for those two or three times a year you may need it.

 

[Swingpure]

Does it make any difference to the battery life if you charge it at 24 amps vs let’s say 48 amps?

 

[rbdavis808]

Having spent a few months on the VW ID.4 order waitlist before landing our I5, I read some lengthy discussions about this on the ID.4 forum. My take on the general consensus there is that the less you heat the battery (and related in-car charging circuitry) the better -- however, the difference between 24 and 40 amps at L2 is waaay less than the difference between 40 amps at L2 and DCFC. If you're worried about 40a L2 charging you should probably be terrified by DCFC. Most seemingly knowledgable folks over there seemed to think that (i) you should be completely comfortable with charging regularly at 40a L2, but (ii) if you can get the charging speed you need at 32a it could hardly hurt your battery to use the lower speed.

 

[Yaric]

Just trying to get my math right. The cord that comes with the I5 will charge the Ioniq 5 at a rate of 3 to 5 miles range per hour. I thought I read on this forum that with a 120 to 240 adapter, you can plug in the cord that comes with the car, into a 240 source and that will then double the charging power so it could charge the I5 at a rate of 6 to 10 miles an hour. If 90% of the time, we drive 50 miles or less, that would mean that I could charge the car back to 80% in 5 to 8 hours, plugged into a 240 source.

Is that math correct in the real world?

I will get a level 2 charger, but knowing the above information strangely will help me make a few decisions.

Thanks

120v 12A = 6km/h = 1.5% per hour - OEM
240v 12A = 12km/h = 3% per hour

Using SOC% is better, because range depends on air temperature, and SOC is always the same whole year.

Charger is not rated to 240V, but so far I did not see anyone who reported any issues. General consensus is manufacturer uses the same hardware for USA and Europe, only plug differs.
Disclaimer: you do it on your own risk, I do not guarantee anything.

 

[Swingpure]

120v 12A = 6km/h = 1.5% per hour - OEM
240v 12A = 12km/h = 3% per hour

Using SOC% is better, because range depends on air temperature, and SOC is always the same whole year.

Charger is not rated to 240V, but so far I did not see anyone who reported any issues. General consensus is manufacturer uses the same hardware for USA and Europe, only plug differs.
Disclaimer: you do it on your own risk, I do not guarantee anything.

I would not try it unless it was 100% okay to do. I thought I read it was okay to do, but if it isn’t I won’t try it.

I may consider getting a more portable plug in EVSE instead of one that is wired in. Before when I was thinking I could use the OEM cord with 240, I was going to set up a 240 plug at my daughters and just get a top up charge there. I will still set up a 240 plug, but will bring my EVSE with me.

 

[Jumper52]

Normally, I only drive 150 - 250 miles a week. I haven‘t seen the need to install a 240v circuit yet. (I got a couple of quotes for doing that. I would need to upgrade my electrical panel, so one quote was $1800 and the other was $3600 plus the cost of the EVSE.)

I bought a Vevor 110/240 Volt 32 Amp portable EVSE from Amazon for $200 and am running that at 16A on 110V. I can charge from 55% - 60% to 90% overnight (12 hours) and do that once or twice a week. Works for me.

 

[Yaric]

Normally, I only drive 150 - 250 miles a week. I haven‘t seen the need to install a 240v circuit yet. (I got a couple of quotes for doing that. I would need to upgrade my electrical panel, so one quote was $1800 and the other was $3600 plus the cost of the EVSE.)

I bought a Vevor 110/240 Volt 32 Amp portable EVSE from Amazon for $200 and am running that at 16A on 110V. I can charge from 55% - 60% to 90% overnight (12 hours) and do that once or twice a week. Works for me.

Never run 16A in the regular 110V outlet. It is not safe to have continuous load over 80% of max load. You will destroy outlet and in wall cables if you lucky. Or it can be a house fire.

 

[prescorla]

Never run 16A in the regular 110V outlet. It is not safe to have continuous load over 80% of max load. You will destroy outlet and in wall cables if you lucky. Or it can be a house fire.

That on 110 should be on a 20amp circuit with #12 wire. Should be tripping the 15amp breaker if it is drawing 16amp for any length of time. Would like to see the name plate on the side of that. Just looked it up. Has a nema 14-30 plug. So as long as the wall plug is proper should not be an issue. Though not impressed with the certification - says only the cable and car plug UL, nothing about the box itself.

 

[hpark21]

Normally, I only drive 150 - 250 miles a week. I haven‘t seen the need to install a 240v circuit yet. (I got a couple of quotes for doing that. I would need to upgrade my electrical panel, so one quote was $1800 and the other was $3600 plus the cost of the EVSE.)

I bought a Vevor 110/240 Volt 32 Amp portable EVSE from Amazon for $200 and am running that at 16A on 110V. I can charge from 55% - 60% to 90% overnight (12 hours) and do that once or twice a week. Works for me.

Make sure that whichever circuit that you have that charger plugged in is on 20A circuit since 16A is more than usual 15A circuit.

Also, you pretty much have to make sure that is ONLY thing that will get plugged into that line since that is pretty much maxing out the circuit.

IF you want to save $$ and the circuit is proper 20A line with 12GA wire. I say you should just close out all other outlets on the circuit (if any) and just convert that line to 20A 240v line, convert the receptacle that you use to plug in the car to proper 240v 20A outlet and set up the charger to charge at 16A 240V and you will pretty much double the rate of charge for pretty cheap - just install 20A double pole breaker on the panel (if your panel is full, you may have to convert 1 or 2 breakers to half size ones to make room but you are not really drawing any more "amperage") and install 20A 240v outlet and you are done using same wire.

Heck, I think you can even put 240v 15A outlet as well if your line uses 14GA wire, you will have to use 12A charge BUT it should still be faster than 16A on 110V.

Like I said, this will mean you have to close up all outlets connected to that circuit BUT you pretty much can't use any of the outlets as is anyways while the car is getting charged so little loss IMHO.

 

[Swingpure]

Just would like to report that, after 1 month of usage, the Wallbox Pulsar Plus (Europe, with PowerBoost, 3-phase version) works as it should. FYI I set the car to 90% AC limit.
Just plug in and recharging starts within 3 seconds (Wallbox turns from green to blue). No need to use the apps (Wallbox nor BlueLink). When charging reaches the set limit, I do get a notification from both apps!
When notified or in the morning, just unlock the car (or lock and unlock) to free the charging port.
So far so good!☀

Have you ever taken the wallbox with you on a trip, so that in essence, it is also a portable charger?

Thanks

 

[Swingpure]

I am thinking the wallbox will be a good choice. It is compact enough to take with you and you can adjust the amperage. I can have 40 amps at home (or less if I so choose) and have it set for 16 amps for my daughters place.

I have the skills to run a #12 wire from a 20 amp breaker to a 14-50 plug. I would just need to give the I5 a boost during the winter when making it there and back could be iffy on a single charge.

it is UL and has a 3 year warranty. It is pricier than the Grizzl E (I really like the Grizzl E), but is more compact. It saves me from having to buy a second 120/240 cord.