[GFergos]

When I duplicated the issue recently with an OBD-II reader attached,

May I ask what brand of OBD-II reader you have? I'm thinking I may need to get one.

Thanks

 

[ouch1011]

I don’t watch my motor temperature super closely, but I don’t think I’ve ever seen it get that warm in my I5 AWD. Usually hangs out more in the low 100F range on freeway trips.
I’m not sure what the temperature sensor is sensing in the motor, if it’s the oil temperature, coolant temperature or stator temperature. 190F stator temperature wouldn’t be that high, but it is pretty high for coolant temperature on an EV. (Keep in mind that ICE and EV have vastly different temperature requirements)

 

[Mikael48]

If the motor cooling is the main suspect (I doubt it), you should compare the electric oil pump EOP commanded speed vs. actual speed in Car Scanner.

EWP is the electric water cooling pump.

If you open All Sensors window in Car Scanner while driving - it will record every sensor during the trip (and store in Data Recording for analysis at home). You can share the trip record on forum as a file, so we could analyse all available sensors.

 

[DennisD]

I’m new here with 550 miles on my 2023 Ioniq5 Limited. I’m not sure I really understand the term “turtle mode” but today I experienced something similar, but under very different circumstances. It was about 70 degrees outside. I had driven the car about 7 miles and shut everything off for about 1-hour. Returning home, I stopped at a traffic light and when I tried to accelerate away on the green light, the car sort of “stalled”. Putting my foot a little heavier into the pedal did nothing. Only when I pressed down more did the car accelerate. I was about a mile from home when this happed and I noticed an icon like a speedometer in the top of the display that has “20” displayed at the top-right of the icon. Getting home was uneventful but that icon with the 20 beside it didn’t go away until I turned into my driveway. Any clues as to what might have caused this?ll

 

[DennisD]

I should add that the battery was 64% charged.

 

[jwdrs]

I'm driving an new Kia EV6 (which has as far as I know the same technology.) with the same problem since January.

I am wondering if there is already a known solution for it by Hyundai/dealer?
Here in The Netherlands Kia has still no answer to it.

 

[Pixelated]

It's interesting that it's happening on the RWD. I do notice that on my AWD in normal drive mode, the front motor engages at 75 MPH. Coincidence?

 

[FudgementDay]

I'm experiencing this exact same problem with my 2023 Ioniq 6 SEL RWD with under 800 miles on it.

It drives fine around town, even for extended periods. But when I get it on the Interstate at 70+ mph for about an hour, I get the Power Limited "turtle light", and I lose all power to the accelerator. It has caused me to pull over onto the shoulder of the Interstate a few times, which is pretty dangerous. Every time this has happened the battery was at 50+% charge.

As with the original poster, turning the car off, letting it rest, and starting again lets me drive further, but before long it happens again. However, if I limit my speed to around 55mph, it lets me drive seemingly as far as I want.

I took it to an (out-of-town) dealer on Friday, and they didn't see any error/fault codes, and they couldn't get the issue to occur again -- because they didn't drive it for an hour on the Interstate. They updated the software, which they said fixes some sensor issues among other things. Sure enough, driving it back home, the Power Limited turtle light occurred again after about an hour of driving at ~70mph. I stopped, let it rest for 30 minutes, and limped home at 55mph.

It's odd how the details are almost identical to the original poster's situation. Makes me think there may be a design error that manifests rarely. I'm taking it back to the dealer I bought it from later this morning (driving 55mph down the Interstate, which is neither fun nor particularly safe around here). I'll update if/when they have a resolution.

 

[Mikael48]

You can quickly check with OBD2 dongle if the electric oil pump is working (this EOP is cooling the rear motor). A faulty oil pump will not throw any error code or warning triangle! A similar issue with diagnosis:

Rear motor not operating 45 min after charge!

I am more than halfway into a 2,200 mile trip with a 5 month old 2023 I5, just passed the 5k mile mark. Beginning yesterday I noticed while on cruse control the car would lurch forward to compensate for being 2-3 mph under the cruse set point. Today I figured out the rear motor was no longer...

www.ioniqforum.com

 

[FudgementDay]

You can quickly check with OBD2 dongle if the electric oil pump is working (this EOP is cooling the rear motor). A faulty oil pump will not throw any error code or warning triangle! A similar issue with diagnosis:

Rear motor not operating 45 min after charge!

I am more than halfway into a 2,200 mile trip with a 5 month old 2023 I5, just passed the 5k mile mark. Beginning yesterday I noticed while on cruse control the car would lurch forward to compensate for being 2-3 mph under the cruse set point. Today I figured out the rear motor was no longer...

www.ioniqforum.com

Thanks for the information. Unfortunately my OBD2 reader wasn't available at the time, as I've been keeping it in my other car to diagnose an intermittent O2 sensor problem.

The service advisor at the dealer keeps claiming that since it doesn't throw an error code, there's nothing wrong. Except it has died on me on the Interstate three times now. I don't care if there's no code -- the car isn't safe to drive. I'm not taking it back until they actually reproduce the issue, or figure out exactly what's wrong and fix it.

He blew off my suggestion about the electric oil pump with "we have the top techs in the country, I'm sure they looked at everything". I told him to ask the tech what the commanded oil pump speed was versus the actual when driving on the highway. We'll see what they say.

I'm going to escalate to the manager, and I guess corporate if I don't get a satisfactory response.

 

[Mikael48]

I suggest recording the actual oil pump RPM (vs. commanded) and motor temperature with your obd2 dongle, then showing the screens to the dealer.

 

[FudgementDay]

I suggest recording the actual oil pump RPM (vs. commanded) and motor temperature with your obd2 dongle, then showing the screens to the dealer.

The car is still with the dealer. I told them to do exactly that. I live nearly an hour's drive away from the dealer.

Edit: The service department could not reproduce the issue. I asked if they'd checked the electric oil pump, and they claimed that they did. They insist that the car is "driveable" despite it losing power three times so far at Interstate speeds. I've opened a ticket with Hyundai Corporate, and we'll see where that goes.

 

[FudgementDay]

Oh, well look at that. Electric Oil Pump actual speed is zero according to Car Scanner.

The service advisor told me they checked it.

Is there any reason this would show zero erroneously on my OBD-II reader?

 

[DennisD]

As a new owner of an Ioniq5, I know very little about this topic so I'm entitled to ask a stupid question: "Doesn't a motor temperature of 197 deg F seem a little excessive?"

 

[Mikael48]

The Electric Oil Pump (EOP) in your rear motor doesn't work at all. This condition throws no DTC error codes, which is worrying and a big miss from Hyundai, as service department procedures are usually directed by diagnostic DTC error codes. No DTC error = no problem.

Maybe they checked it when motor was cold and Electric Oil Pump commanded speed was at 0 rpm? The EOP actual rpm should always match the commanded rpm:

Rear motor not operating 45 min after charge!

I am more than halfway into a 2,200 mile trip with a 5 month old 2023 I5, just passed the 5k mile mark. Beginning yesterday I noticed while on cruse control the car would lurch forward to compensate for being 2-3 mph under the cruse set point. Today I figured out the rear motor was no longer...

www.ioniqforum.com

 

[MaksPewPew]

Ugh, all of these issues and seemingly the dealers not caring and people opening up lemon law suits... is making me REALLY consider just getting a Tesla.

 

[wesleyorama]

It is really concerning reading some of these comments and seeing so many people have this issue. I have been fighting this as well.

Edit: The service department could not reproduce the issue. I asked if they'd checked the electric oil pump, and they claimed that they did. They insist that the car is "driveable" despite it losing power three times so far at Interstate speeds. I've opened a ticket with Hyundai Corporate, and we'll see where that goes.

My dealership said the same thing. The car is not safely driveable on the highway with such limited power. They say this to muddy the waters, if you try to get a lemon law suit setup. I also have a ticket open with Hyundai Corporate. If you want I can send you my ticket for them to cross reference, just PM me. I also suggest opening a complaint with the NHTSA, it will only take a few min and will actually make Hyundai take this problem seriously.

Report a Safety Problem | NHTSA

File a complaint with NHTSA if you experienced a vehicle, tire, car seat or equipment safety problem that could be a safety defect.

www.nhtsa.gov

 

[FudgementDay]

It is really concerning reading some of these comments and seeing so many people have this issue. I have been fighting this as well.

My dealership said the same thing. The car is not safely driveable on the highway with such limited power. They say this to muddy the waters, if you try to get a lemon law suit setup. I also have a ticket open with Hyundai Corporate. If you want I can send you my ticket for them to cross reference, just PM me. I also suggest opening a complaint with the NHTSA, it will only take a few min and will actually make Hyundai take this problem seriously.

Report a Safety Problem | NHTSA

File a complaint with NHTSA if you experienced a vehicle, tire, car seat or equipment safety problem that could be a safety defect.

www.nhtsa.gov

A Hyundai field tech is looking at my car this week, and Corporate followed up with me this morning. I don't have a resolution from either side yet, but at least things seem to be moving. I can certainly see them driving my car around on Bluelink!

I'm not letting it rest until they repair/replace a part that is definitively causing the problem, or there's a service bulletin with accompanying software fix that specifically addresses this issue. Next step will be NHTSA, but I'm hoping Hyundai will diagnose and fix the car. It sounds like others have similar or identical issues, so hopefully the root cause will be figured out and communicated to service departments soon.

 

[Theblackstig]

For what it's worth I have an Ioniq 6 AWD SEL, last Saturday I did a 160 mile round trip in 90 degree heat between 70-90mph. Not a single issue.

To the people having issues it is clearly heated related either a coolant pump or oil pump is either not working fully or partially. OR there is air in the system, this was an issue on chevy bolts post battery replacement, the Chevy bolts battery has to be vacuumed filled with coolant for correct operation.

 

[Noreaster]

For what it's worth I have an Ioniq 6 AWD SEL, last Saturday I did a 160 mile round trip in 90 degree heat between 70-90mph. Not a single issue.

To the people having issues it is clearly heated related either a coolant pump or oil pump is either not working fully or partially. OR there is air in the system, this was an issue on chevy bolts post battery replacement, the Chevy bolts battery has to be vacuumed filled for correct operation.

It would be interesting to know if your EOP is reporting RPM's. Screenshot below is what mine shows (note EOP Commanded Speed=2960 vs Electric Oil Pump=0). The command is around 1000 initially, gradually increasing to near 3000 before the rear motor fails, but the actual is never more than 0.

The EWP Actual & Command are equal, I believe this is the front EOP, which is operating without issue.