I have 12000 miles on my ioniq 6 that I got in oct 2023. I have been driving my car every day, and slow charged(level 1) to around 95% before driving on a trip. I am up to date on all recall updates. My trip was delayed by a day but it still was at 95% overnight and when I went out to get in the next morning and it was completely dead. A jump restarted it, but is this a sign of bad things(ICCU) to come? is the OEM battery really such that I need to start thinking of replacing it barely over a year in? It's not like it sat there for any significant length of time without use. Any insights appreciated.
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US ICCU Recall (aka 12V battery failure issue) and Tesla Supercharger access and adapters. Please do not create duplicate threads on these topics. Links: ICCU Thread | Supercharger Thread | Adapter Thread
Owner
Did you have the battery tested?
I had my car go into what I would call a deep sleep (or maybe coma). I was working in the garage and every time I walked by the fob would trigger unlock. But then an hour or so later, nothing. And, wouldn't you know it, my Li Ion jump pack was in the trunk (inaccessible without power!).
AAA claimed to not have anyone who knew how to jump an EV (sad excuse). Hyundai uses AAA for the roadside assist, so that too was a dead end.
Had a friend drop by with a 12V charger, it refused to charge the 12V (it was actually fully charged), so we switched it to jump mode and the thing came to life with horns, alarms, you name it... Had the 12V tested about 10 miles from home, 100%...
So, my theory is mine, maybe yours, and maybe some of the many report of 12V battery issues might have something to do with the car going into a deep sleep/coma. Needless to say, the jump pack sits in the lower center console now.
I wonder if all the proximity unlocks without opening the doors tricked it into thinking it was some kind of hacker attack and it went in to a self defense mode by hiding its head in the sand? LOL.
Hyundai uses flooded lead acid batteries, but AGM is probably a better fit for EVs given all the electronics, telematics, etc. That will be my next move if problem arise, but I am about 1/3 into my lease and would obviously prefer to not touch it if it will last until January, 2027 when the lease ends.
If you look below, you are going to find several "Related Threads", and if you search the forum, you would probably find hundreds of threads on the 12V battery topic. So, you are far from being alone.
My advice, get a jump pack that is small enough to keep in the car, charge the jump pack every 6 months or so... or upgrade to an AGM battery...or both.
I had my car go into what I would call a deep sleep (or maybe coma). I was working in the garage and every time I walked by the fob would trigger unlock. But then an hour or so later, nothing. And, wouldn't you know it, my Li Ion jump pack was in the trunk (inaccessible without power!).
AAA claimed to not have anyone who knew how to jump an EV (sad excuse). Hyundai uses AAA for the roadside assist, so that too was a dead end.
Had a friend drop by with a 12V charger, it refused to charge the 12V (it was actually fully charged), so we switched it to jump mode and the thing came to life with horns, alarms, you name it... Had the 12V tested about 10 miles from home, 100%...
So, my theory is mine, maybe yours, and maybe some of the many report of 12V battery issues might have something to do with the car going into a deep sleep/coma. Needless to say, the jump pack sits in the lower center console now.
I wonder if all the proximity unlocks without opening the doors tricked it into thinking it was some kind of hacker attack and it went in to a self defense mode by hiding its head in the sand? LOL.
Hyundai uses flooded lead acid batteries, but AGM is probably a better fit for EVs given all the electronics, telematics, etc. That will be my next move if problem arise, but I am about 1/3 into my lease and would obviously prefer to not touch it if it will last until January, 2027 when the lease ends.
If you look below, you are going to find several "Related Threads", and if you search the forum, you would probably find hundreds of threads on the 12V battery topic. So, you are far from being alone.
My advice, get a jump pack that is small enough to keep in the car, charge the jump pack every 6 months or so... or upgrade to an AGM battery...or both.
I had the same issue and learned from the forums of a 10mm reset. 10mm is the socket size to remove the negative terminal from the 12v. Reconnected and everything was fine. 12v and high voltage batteries were fully charged. Took it to dealership, no codes, battery tested fine but they replaced 12v for "customer satisfaction".
Not the ICCU.
The OEM battery from my experience and the 100's of threads across many forums typically last 1 1/2 - 2 yeas. Some more sone less. Ours was 18 mos.
READ once the flooded lead acid battery has been drained, it has been weakend and will not recover fully. It will die again
Start with this post and see links to the same issue (36) Totally dead battery and car | Hyundai IONIQ Forum
The OEM battery from my experience and the 100's of threads across many forums typically last 1 1/2 - 2 yeas. Some more sone less. Ours was 18 mos.
READ once the flooded lead acid battery has been drained, it has been weakend and will not recover fully. It will die again
Start with this post and see links to the same issue (36) Totally dead battery and car | Hyundai IONIQ Forum
Have a charger on the aux battery right now with the negative cable removed from the battery terminal so the charger doesn’t have to fight with the charge controller when it wakes up. It’s pulling over 7 amps, which is a lot. I’ll check on it in an hour to see how it’s doing.
My car was completely unresponsive; even the charge port door wouldn’t close and I needed to use the mechanical key to unlock the door to get in. Dealer service department suggested pushing start button with the key, thinking the fob battery was weak; that also did nothing. That’s when I searched and found this thread, and the indications I’m getting from the charger show me the folks on this thread are on the right track - thank you all for participating so more of us can find a working solution!
My car was completely unresponsive; even the charge port door wouldn’t close and I needed to use the mechanical key to unlock the door to get in. Dealer service department suggested pushing start button with the key, thinking the fob battery was weak; that also did nothing. That’s when I searched and found this thread, and the indications I’m getting from the charger show me the folks on this thread are on the right track - thank you all for participating so more of us can find a working solution!
Chances are the battery has got sulphated by a deep discharge to low voltage. You might be able to improve its health a bit by using a de-sulphating cycle on a "smart" 12V charger. I use Ctek MXS 5.0 on mine, other brands available. Takes up to 24 hours to do a full reconditioning cycle. Not a bad idea to repeat this process apparently, say every few months-ish?
Not sure if directly related, but my ICCU died on friday. It gave a warning to drive directly to the dealer so I started that way, but did not make it. Initially entered some kind of turtle mode, then when I pulled off into a side street, just went completely dead. Dealer says a few weeks on the part but they have given me a loaner.
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