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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
I wouldn't run the Ctek while the 12V is fully wired into the car. As per charts above, the car itself is likely to try to control the voltage fed to the 12V at some random-ish time. I wouldn't want to see the result of a battle between that & the Ctek. The Ctek might suddenly see a much larger voltage appear - what's it going to think? Battery suddenly ok & no further treatment needed? What's going to happen if the Ctek is trying to discharge the battery, at exactly the same time as the car is trying to pump 10's of amps into it? The Ctek might look like a short-circuit to ground as far as the car's concerned.

Do disconnect the 12V Earth, please. You do not want 2 providers fighting over the 12V.
Or you can disconnect the +12 v connection to the car. Electrically it makes no difference which you do. But one of those 2 lead terminals needs to go to the Ctek only, and nothing else at all.
 
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I wouldn't run the Ctek while the 12V is fully wired into the car. As per charts above, the car itself is likely to try to control the voltage fed to the 12V at some random-ish time. I wouldn't want to see the result of a battle between that & the Ctek. The Ctek might suddenly see a much larger voltage appear - what's it going to think? Battery suddenly ok & no further treatment needed? What's going to happen if the Ctek is trying to discharge the battery, at exactly the same time as the car is trying to pump 10's of amps into it? The Ctek might look like a short-circuit to ground as far as the car's concerned.

Do disconnect the 12V Earth, please. You do not want 2 providers fighting over the 12V.
It's just on the charging cycle at the moment. I did the same the other night and it was fine, so fingers crossed. If the BM2 monitor indicates a problem, I'll disconnect the battery and run a recon cycle with the Ctek. I don't think it does a discharge on the normal cycle.
 

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Whether the water droplets hit or stay on the electrical contacts has got to be fairly random, mine took 8? months to manifest then seemed to happen several times in a row over a few months so not easy to pin down. Weird that it took so long to manifest itself.
 

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The BM2 monitor has arrived and I've installed it. The battery was at 100% showing about 12.7v with the car off. When I switched the car on, it started to charge the 12v showing about 14 point something volts.
Interestingly, after turning the car off and locking the doors, the battery voltage started dropping and was down to 95% in just a few minutes. Is that normal?
I'll check it again in an hour or so. It's still in the garage so I can't monitor it from the house.
 

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Not quite an hour, but now showing 72%. However, voltage is 12.49v, so I'm not sure what the percentage is based on? Voltage seems steady since I turned the car off.
 

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I did connect a Ctek charger to my Leaf without disconnecting a battery terminal without any noticeable damage. However, after reading comments on forums, I’ve since always disconnected the 12-volt battery when using the Ctek.

Sadly, with the expense of buying the Ctek I could have replaced the 4-year-old battery in my Leaf which I had to do anyway as it wouldn’t hold a charge :(

I’ve suffered a flat 12-volt battery once in my Ioniq, I’m currently leaning towards buying a spare Yuasa replacement if it happens again.

I maybe should get one of those BM2 monitors just to monitor what is going on with the battery?
 

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I've done a bit of research and a good battery charge is between 12.4 and 12.8v. It will be interesting to see if the battery drops below 12.4v in the next few hours. If it does, either something in the car is draining it, or the battery is not holding its charge. I'll then have to disconnect the battery and try running a recon with the Ctek.
 

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I've checked the battery again and it's sitting at 12.48 to 12.50v, now 80%. Given that most guides suggest it should sit between 12.6 and 12.8 with no load, and the fact that just opening the car door made it drop to 12.02v, I've decided to remove it from the car and run a full recond program with the Ctek.

I maybe should have seen what the voltage was when disconnected, then I'd know if the car is drawing a small voltage when locked, but too late now. I'll do that once the reconditioning has finished, checking the voltage before I put it back in the car, and then after it is reconnected.

Tomorrow, once the battery is back in the car, I intend to hose the car down with water whilst monitoring the voltage of the 12v battery to see if there is any drop. Given the large drop when opening the door, I wonder if the problem is more to do with leaving a door open whilst cleaning the inside of the car, or the other day, leaving the boot open whilst unloading the shopping. That shouldn't normally drain a battery, but might do if the battery is a bit weak. The fact I've only had the car a few weeks may suggest it had been parked up for a while waiting to be sold and the 12v became degraded.
 

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Hi all,

Well I left the battery to recondition overnight and when I checked the voltage with it out of the car it was 13.02v. Once back in the car, it immediately dropped to 12.02v, then slowly crept back up to 12.4v. I wonder if something in the car has its own battery to maintain its memory and the 12v charges that?

Worryingly, when I connected using Bluelink about an hour later, that caused the voltage to drop to about 12.02v again, and the 12v battery status is now missing in the Bluelink app?? The battery has slowly crept back up to 12.33v, but that's not good given the reconditioning cycle it has had.

Could someone please check the voltage of their battery with the car closed and locked? I'm curious to know how mine compares. I'm starting to think the battery needs replacing though.

Many thanks
 

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Could someone please check the voltage of their battery with the car closed and locked? I'm curious to know how mine compares. I'm starting to think the battery needs replacing though.

Many thanks
Funnily enough I just did 12.2-volts, I've checked it before with the same result? I think with the car unlocked and the bonnet open the car is awake so the battery is under load which drops the voltage a bit?
 

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Funnily enough I just did 12.2-volts, I've checked it before with the same result? I think with the car unlocked and the bonnet open the car is awake so the battery is under load which drops the voltage a bit?
Thanks. I don't think it's a good voltage to sit at. Do you have the BM2 monitor? I can now check the voltage from the comfort of my sofa with the bonnet closed and the car locked. The voltage has crept back up to 12.38v, which is too low I think.
 

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Thanks. I don't think it's a good voltage to sit at. Do you have the BM2 monitor?
I agree 12.6-volts would be a bit healthier, no I don't currently have a BM2 monitor but have ordered one. After performing a recovery on my Leaf battery using a Ctek and re connecting the battery to the Leaf it immediately read 12.4 volts so I think various control systems remain awake if the car is open?
 

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I agree 12.6-volts would be a bit healthier, no I don't currently have a BM2 monitor but have ordered one. After performing a recovery on my Leaf battery using a Ctek and re connecting the battery to the Leaf it immediately read 12.4 volts so I think various control systems remain awake if the car is open?
Mine is sitting at 12.39 to 12.4v now. I do wonder what voltage the BM2 monitor uses? Would it be enough to reduce the reading by 0.2v?
 

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Discussion Starter · #54 ·
BM2 draws about 10 mA, a tiny amount. It's not enough to affect the battery. After my battery hit 8.3V, I did the desulphate recycle & it went back up to 13V. Since then it's been between 12.7 & 12.6 volts with the car just sitting outside unconnected & unused, see my BM2 charts above. A Battery sitting around 12.0 to 12.3V after reconditioning sounds damaged to me. Time to get the dealer to do a stress test on it & give you a replacement under warranty. Or if out of wty, fit something else, but not a Delkor from Hyundai I suggest.
 

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BM2 draws about 10 mA, a tiny amount. It's not enough to affect the battery. After my battery hit 8.3V, I did the desulphate recycle & it went back up to 13V. Since then it's been between 12.7 & 12.6 volts with the car just sitting outside unconnected & unused, see my BM2 charts above. A Battery sitting around 12.0 to 12.3V after reconditioning sounds damaged to me. Time to get the dealer to do a stress test on it & give you a replacement under warranty. Or if out of wty, fit something else, but not a Delkor from Hyundai I suggest.
Thanks. I'm starting to think it is damaged as the voltage drops the moment even the slightest strain is put on the battery. I've been for a short drive of about 30 minutes total and the car charged the battery throughout (14.76v) When I got home the voltage dropped down to just over 12v and is slowly recovering, but still only currently 12.34v. The percentage in the BM2 app seems a bit laggy, as it still shows 80%.
I also can't understand why the 12v battery status is no longer showing in the Bluelink app?
 

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Thanks. I'm starting to think it is damaged as the voltage drops the moment even the slightest strain is put on the battery.
I also can't understand why the 12v battery status is no longer showing in the Bluelink app?
It does sound like your battery may be suffering, especially as you ran the de-sulphate cycle on it a few days ago.

Strange about the battery status not showing up in the app, maybe refresh the app?

I used my car for a round trip lasting about an hour 30 minutes ago, I just checked the aux battery voltage with my Fluke meter, it read 12.09 volts with the car unlocked and bonnet open.

3 hours ago, the battery read 12.20 volts, the car had sat over night and was not used prior to this battery reading?

It does not make sense to me? :unsure:
 

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It does sound like your battery may be suffering, especially as you ran the de-sulphate cycle on it a few days ago.

Strange about the battery status not showing up in the app, maybe refresh the app?

I used my car for a round trip lasting about an hour 30 minutes ago, I just checked the aux battery voltage with my Fluke meter, it read 12.09 volts with the car unlocked and bonnet open.

3 hours ago, the battery read 12.20 volts, the car had sat over night and was not used prior to this battery reading?

It does not make sense to me? :unsure:
It doesn't make much sense. Mine has been sitting at 12.44v for the last few hours. I may stick a multimeter on it to check it tallies with the BM2 app. If the bonnet is open you can press a sensor button somewhere to make the car think it's closed, which should give a higher reading.
 

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It doesn't make much sense. Mine has been sitting at 12.44v for the last few hours. I may stick a multimeter on it to check it tallies with the BM2 app. If the bonnet is open you can press a sensor button somewhere to make the car think it's closed, which should give a higher reading.
I installed the BM2 monitor on Tuesday, 11.97 volts first login on mobile, powered on the car and it immediately ramped up to 14.78 volts. After an hour the battery drifted back down to 12.43 volts, and 12.34 volts a few hours later. I think the battery is in need of a de-sulphate charge cycle from the Ctek, or maybe replacement?

I'm no expert but to me 14.78 volts is a bit too aggressive a charge voltage, maybe 13.80 volts would be kinder to the battery, I’m thinking the 12-volt auxiliary battery needs a BMS of its own to look after the auxiliary battery cells better?
 

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I installed the BM2 monitor on Tuesday, 11.97 volts first login on mobile, powered on the car and it immediately ramped up to 14.78 volts. After an hour the battery drifted back down to 12.43 volts, and 12.34 volts a few hours later. I think the battery is in need of a de-sulphate charge cycle from the Ctek, or maybe replacement?

I'm no expert but to me 14.78 volts is a bit too aggressive a charge voltage, maybe 13.80 volts would be kinder to the battery, I’m thinking the 12-volt auxiliary battery needs a BMS of its own to look after the auxiliary battery cells better?
I notice in the manual these are calcium based batteries, which require a higher charge. I think I read they can't be trickle charged.
Maybe it's this that causes them to retain low voltage after charging?
 

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I charged up my failing old (5 years) Leaf battery that I still have with the intention of temporarily swapping it for the Ioniq’s Delkor battery so I can do a full Ctek maintenance charge on the Delkor.

I’m not using the Ioniq btw I just need to lock it today and open it tomorrow to replace the hopefully “maintained” Delkor battery.

Comparing the two batteries together the Leaf battery is massive in comparison to the puny Delkor :(

Given the number of electronic systems in an EV you would think Hyundai would fit a more substantial battery with a bit more power in reserve?
 
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