Hyundai IONIQ Forum banner
21 - 40 of 61 Posts

·
Registered
Red 2019 Ioniq 38 Premium EV
Joined
·
453 Posts
Discussion Starter · #21 ·
2020 38 kWh has a 40 Ah battery in, CCA is what you'ld expect for that size Lead Acid battery. My wife's Citroen C1 has a 35 Ah battery, just a fraction smaller, and that starts her 3-cylinder 1 litre engine ok. So you should be ok to jump another ICE from it, but I'd want it up & running before coupling the two as you're risking draining it & then neither car might start.
 

·
Registered
2019 PHEV Ultimate
Joined
·
1,354 Posts
Does anyone know if it is strong enough to jump an ICE car? I would think that the CCA on our batteries is really low as it doesn't need to turn a starter.
If I recall correctly the CCA is about half that of a battery for a regular ICE vehicle of comparable size.

Back in December I was at Mont Tremblant on a morning below -30C when a fellow snowboarder's car wouldn't start outside of our hotel. (His car was dead dead, no lights even came on with the door open.) I tried jumping it without the Ioniq running to avoid excessive load on the DC-DC converter, his dome light came on so we knew we had the cables connected okay, but it refused to even turn over; let alone start. We then started the Ioniq and left it running for 15 minutes to try and put some charge into his battery before trying to crank it again, this time with the Ioniq still running. That also didn't work so we gave up and I drove him to the hill, then we boarded together for the rest of the day. An ICE driver was available to boost him when we got back and that worked just fine. Oh well, we tried...
 
  • Like
Reactions: HandyAndy

·
Registered
Joined
·
482 Posts
...
I like how the Ioniq's (as troublesome as it maybe for some) is at least out in the open with plenty of space around. Does anyone know if it is strong enough to jump an ICE car? I would think that the CCA on our batteries is really low as it doesn't need to turn a starter.
I have a 2018 Ioniq phev and I agree with you, the battery location is convenient.

I used my Ioniq to jump start ICE cars with dead batteries twice. This was before I learned that this is not recommended. No problems starting the other cars from my battery. I don't remember if my car was running at the time but I think it probably was since that's what I would have done in my old car.

I have since bought a portable Li ion battery jump starter pack. But have not had occasion to use it yet.
 

·
Registered
Red 2019 Ioniq 38 Premium EV
Joined
·
453 Posts
Discussion Starter · #24 ·
I'm back after 10 days hols, my home-made Battery Backup Booster has worked fine. No vampire drain to have to deal with, but the Aux battery has been continually topped up during recent 700 miles travel, and it's sitting at a comfortable 13.12V . This is safely below the 13.5V level above which AGMs are likely to outgass unmanageably & get damaged. So I think this looks a safe long-term float voltage. More info here.
Ioniq 12V Battery, BM2 Monitor Pictures and Vampire...
 
  • Like
Reactions: Leafocaster

·
Registered
Joined
·
482 Posts
I have a rental car for a business trip and this morning my rental car would not start. I'm not sure why the battery was dead, but it was very dead, only 6.5 volts. The guy from the local tow company tried to jump start it but it wouldnt start with his portable jumper battery attached. He had to tow it away. (and we had to use the shift lock release thing, very handy thing to know). Just another reminder that these issues affect all cars, not just hybrids.
 

·
Registered
Red 2019 Ioniq 38 Premium EV
Joined
·
453 Posts
Discussion Starter · #27 ·
... we had to use the shift lock release thing, very handy thing to know...
! The quote below says the shift lock cannot be released unless you have power to the car! But as you say there is usually a way to get round that for tow truck use, on Ampera you lift the body panels beside the shift stick & prod some lever. How do you do this on Ioniq which is a press-electrical-button shift please? Did you see this being done? I can't see any obvious video on youtube...
 
  • Like
Reactions: catstevecam

·
Registered
Joined
·
125 Posts
My battery died last winter when it was extremely cold. The next day a booster box solved my issue and it's been fine since. I rarely get a notice that the battery was charged while the car was off. However, my wife's electric Kona has a yellow light in the grill which shows that the 12v battery is being charged by the main traction battery. I really wonder if's it not really a 12v battery issue and a software (firmware) issue, or a relay that prevents regular charging of the 12v battery.
 

·
Registered
Red 2019 Ioniq 38 Premium EV
Joined
·
453 Posts
Discussion Starter · #29 ·
We do know now that the Ioniq does a once-every-24-hours topup (if you have the autosaver+ thing set on), but the Kona does this same thing every 6 hours! Apparently that was a fix for something. I suspect they simply didn't think to apply to the Ioniq 38, maybe far fewer of these sold so far fewer complaints etc. I intend to take this up with the Hyundai UK tecchies when I have time, maybe early next week, now I have the evidence to hand. Might not be a cure, but should help the battery I believe.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Pete Cittern

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,480 Posts
We do know now that the Ioniq does a once-every-24-hours topup (if you have the autosaver+ thing set on),
Sorry, how do we know this? As far as I'm aware, the "topup" requires a threshold low voltage before triggering, not a set time interval. I've seen continuous monitoring graphs documenting this behavior whether Batterysaver plus is on or off. Possibly there has been a change in later models, but the same level of complaints appear regularly of failed batteries presumably from intermittent charging from too low threshold levels.
 

·
Registered
Red 2019 Ioniq 38 Premium EV
Joined
·
453 Posts
Discussion Starter · #31 ·
We do know now that the Ioniq does a once-every-24-hours topup (if you have the autosaver+ thing set on), but the Kona does this same thing every 6 hours! ...
Sorry, how do we know this? As far as I'm aware, the "topup" requires a threshold low voltage before triggering, not a set time interval...
here's my evidence. First, Ioniq 38 pic from my own EV. Secondly, Kona image from here: Miniboost not starting car with dead 12v battery

IONIQ 38
Rectangle Slope Font Parallel Pattern


KONA 39 or 64, not sure which
Font Audio equipment Parallel Slope Pattern
 

·
Registered
Red 2019 Ioniq 38 Premium EV
Joined
·
453 Posts
Discussion Starter · #32 ·
... and here's another pic of my car, sat on the driveway doing nothing at all, not plugged in.
Slope Rectangle Font Parallel Pattern


I suspect the blip is when I've walked past with keyfob in my pocket & the wing mirrors have woken up, unfolded, then folded back & the car's gone back to sleep. Or was it the 24-hourly wakeup that did a micro-topup for all of 2 minutes? Voltage was 12.61V just before it, and 12.59 just after.

I'm not impressed that the car's let the voltage drop to 12.5V without starting a charge. Nothing happened until 7:45 the next morning, the voltage was 12.48V, when I either went out, or plugged in to charge, anyway it all got busy. On the prev day (27th), car had been charging until 10 p.m., voltage at 12.76V, so there's a 33 hour stretch with nothing happening at all apart from that spike at 11:30, where the voltage goes from 12.76V down to 12.48V.

Frankly I don't think this is good enough. Any other interpretations & opinions welcome, I want to know what's (not) going on! And I think these pics here are enough evidence for me to get on to the Hyundai UK guys & get some action. I want to see at least a similar much more frequent topup pattern that the Kona guys are seeing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
My 12v battery has just failed without warning today. I've had the car 3 weeks. I drove it for about an hour in total this morning, then left it outside in the rain. When I unlocked it and tried to start it, it said key not detected. I got the spare key and got the same message again. I started it by pushing the start stop button with the key and got warnings about brake problems. Car wouldn't go into drive mode. Bluelink reported a problem with the 12v battery.
Luckily I was at home, so I got my battery charger/conditioner and attached it to the battery. After 5 minutes I was able to start the car with no warnings. I have to pick my kids up from school and I'm afraid to switch the car off until it's home and back in my garage 🙄
 

·
Registered
Red 2019 Ioniq 38 Premium EV
Joined
·
453 Posts
Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Ouch, I wonder if it's the water in the door-button problem?
 
  • Like
Reactions: Ou Boet

·
Registered
Ioniq 2020 Premium SE
Joined
·
105 Posts
That's what I had and it's fixable. If the 12v battery dying correlates with rain or car washing it could be that. Mine has been fine since the fix and has been left out in all weathers for over a year.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
That's what I had and it's fixable. If the 12v battery dying correlates with rain or car washing it could be that. Mine has been fine since the fix and has been left out in all weathers for over a year.
Hi Pete,
I've been in contact with Hyundai via email and have mentioned the issue you had. There's no rain forecast, so I'm going to jetwash the car today to see if the problem reoccurs. If it does, would you be ok to send me your reg no and where the problem was fixed in a private message? It will then hopefully give my local dealership something to go on. I'll let you know if jetwashing the car replicates the problem.

Best wishes
Gareth
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
Well I gave the car a good wash, including a thorough jetwash and all seemed fine. The car started ok and several hours later I popped it back in the garage.
However, just out of curiosity, this evening I checked the Bluelink app and that is showing a warning for the 12v battery. I went into the garage and the car starts normally without any errors. As a precaution I've attached the battery conditioner/charger again and will leave it charging the 12v overnight.
I'm scratching my head now. The other day, the fault happened not long after the rain stopped, and the car had been driven earlier that day. Today, there appeared to be no problems after the car was soaked and it hasn't been driven at all today other than taking it in/out of the garage. If I hadn't checked Bluelink, I'd have been none the wiser.
I'm wondering if I should book it into the nearest dealer and ask for the 12v battery to be replaced?
What do people think?
 

·
Registered
Red 2019 Ioniq 38 Premium EV
Joined
·
453 Posts
Discussion Starter · #39 ·
Do you have a BM2 monitor? If not, I suggest get one. We haven't yet seen a trace of a vampire drain actually happening, would be invaluable information to have one. Also, it will give us a better idea of the state of your battery. Sounds as if yours has got a repeating/constant problem. If you have a trace of what it's doing, you may have 100% proof that the dealer cannot deny.

Suppose they accept there's a problem, give you a new battery under warranty, and the problem happens again, what then? No-one knows, as far as I can see, whether the problem is the car's treating the battery badly by not charging it properly, or whether the batteries are getting damaged somehow and not managing to cope.

Suppose they test the battery, charge it up, and it appears to be fine - maybe they get it to 13V, and give it back to you. You won't really know of the battery's ok, or has got a very reduced capacity.

In the meantime you're probably best taking the battery you of the car (or at least disconnect the Earth lead) so the car's own daily charge doesn't fight against your owb charges, and then attack your own charger which hopefuly has a desulphating+reconditioning cycle. I'm happy with my Ctek MXS 5.0 which does this nicely. My battery has behaved itself after the 8.3V eposode, I gave it the desulphate after that and it does at least work!

Do this yourself and you'll get it done a lot faster & with less hassle than taking it to the dealer!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
Do you have a BM2 monitor? If not, I suggest get one. We haven't yet seen a trace of a vampire drain actually happening, would be invaluable information to have one. Also, it will give us a better idea of the state of your battery. Sounds as if yours has got a repeating/constant problem. If you have a trace of what it's doing, you may have 100% proof that the dealer cannot deny.

Suppose they accept there's a problem, give you a new battery under warranty, and the problem happens again, what then? No-one knows, as far as I can see, whether the problem is the car's treating the battery badly by not charging it properly, or whether the batteries are getting damaged somehow and not managing to cope.

Suppose they test the battery, charge it up, and it appears to be fine - maybe they get it to 13V, and give it back to you. You won't really know of the battery's ok, or has got a very reduced capacity.

In the meantime you're probably best taking the battery you of the car (or at least disconnect the Earth lead) so the car's own daily charge doesn't fight against your owb charges, and then attack your own charger which hopefuly has a desulphating+reconditioning cycle. I'm happy with my Ctek MXS 5.0 which does this nicely. My battery has behaved itself after the 8.3V eposode, I gave it the desulphate after that and it does at least work!

Do this yourself and you'll get it done a lot faster & with less hassle than taking it to the dealer!
I'd seen the BM traces on various forums and wondered how people got them, but after a bit of Googling found the BM2 monitor. I've ordered one and it will be here tomorrow.
I also have Ctek MXS 5.0 and that's what is charging the battery at the moment. I've got it set to the normal car setting and when I switch it on it jumps rapidly to the 3rd stage, which I assume means no desulphating required? I don't want to do a full recon just yet. I've connected it to the battery without disconnecting any leads.
I'm always a bit nervous now as the last time I used the Ctek was to trickle charge a Z4 which was garaged over winter. Literally the day I was due to sell the Z4 the battery let go, spraying acid inside the boot. I'd assumed the Ctek wouldn't allow that to happen. I needed to buy a new battery.
As soon as the BM monitor arrives, I'll connect it up and set about monitoring the battery over a few days.
 
21 - 40 of 61 Posts
Top