Hyundai IONIQ Forum banner
41 - 46 of 46 Posts
No, I couldn't. I charged at a station with no other cars. And it was a 22kw charger and the cable is the original Hyundai cable Made in Germany.
The charging company says it's the car's problem.
I'm so mad. I told Hyundai Denmark that either they find a solution for this or I share all the terrible things that happened to me on LinkedIn where I have quite a high influence.
Hi SAL65,

The issue is, that in Denmark is it illegal to install a single fase with 32a. For the Ioniq to get 7,2 kW, it need a fase with 32a. The reason why some charging stations can provide 7,2 kW for the Ioniq is, that there a fase divider which takes the 3x16a fases and creates a 32a fase on the spot. This installation is legal, but not very common.
 
Its not the cord or the state of charge in your battery (slow charging is not affected by state of charge) Your car is using only one fase AC and if the charger is limited tog 16 amp you only get 3,6 kWh. If charger use 32 amp you get 7 kWh. If you install a home charger and put it to 3 *16 amp (total 11 kWh) your car take only 3,6 kWh, because it use only one fase, so if you want to get more than 3,6 kWh you need a special charger, it combine two fases to one (400 v) and you get 6kWh. Here is one option (only in finnish) https://wallelaturit.fi/tuote/walle-sahkoauton-latauslaite-25a-6-kw-type-2/
 
Hi All,

Sorry for reviving an old thread but I am having the same issue in the UK

A month ago bought Ioniq EV 2021

Cable rated 32A

The car will only charge up to 3.6kwh

I haven't tried DC yet but all AC chargers including my freshly installed at home (Ohme epod) does that.
Ohme's app showing me an error that car charges slower than expected

I've tried different 32A Type 2 cable

3 Pin socket charge at 2.1kwh

Charging management in the car settings is set up for maximum for both DC and AC.


No matter what I am doing and what is current SoC...when plugged in car will briefly go 7kwh and than immediately lower speed to 3.6kwh



Any idea what might be causing this?
 
AFAIK the internal AC charging modules come in units of 3.4 kW each, so e.g. EVs with option for 11 kW charging get 3 units fitted, one per phase, and if single phase then 2 units parallel themselves up for 7 kW charging.
Phevs often have just the one unit, and the 38s have 2 units. Sounds to me that one of your 2 units is faulty, and shuts itself down immed after starting a charge.
If you've deffo tried a genuine 7 kW AC EVSE, e.g.Rapid with a 44 kW Type-2 socket, then has to be the car. Some supermarket 22 Kw EVSEs might be restricted to 3.3 Kw, unlikely but possible.
Need to eliminatethe EVSE as possible cause, sounds to me like you've already done that, & it's not the cable.
 
Actually, the fastest charger I've tried was only 11kwh but I didn't check the actual speed car was charging at that time.

And I literally just now checked it with 7kwh public Pod Point AC charger and it managed to charge car at exactly this speed so neither car or cable I use causing the issue.



I'm did some research and have more clues.

Everything indicates my house has single phase supply.
Wallbox states charging at 7.4kwh 32A Single phase

My brother's ioniq ev 2022 also charge at only 3.6kwh on this charger - both of our cables are rated 32A






I was messing around with all of the options and at some point managed to make car to hover around 4.5kwh before going back to 3.6 however, now it is stack on 2.2kwh max so that indicates this is software related and maybe I messed up some settings




I will contact Ohme customer service once I'm back home and let you all know what they said.
 
Sounds like your Ohme is un-tethered? So you're able to use different cables in it, and all fail to charge at 32A.

By chance, I tried a 20A Type-2 cable in my 38er this morning, as sun was shining well on my 4kW panels, and I was curious to see precisely what current the car took. It displayed 4.5 kW & a couple of hours to go. This could be 20A at 225V, or more likely, 19A at 240V, but there will be some rounding errors, so it's all in the correct ballpark.

This suggests to me that your Ohme is seeing all Type-2 cables plugged in as being 20A rated! There's a resistor inside the Type-2 plug between PP and Ground pins, and the Ohme is supposed to check this. Depending on Resistor value, EVSE should choose between 13A, 20A & 32A rate. We've seen wall-mounted EVSEs ignore the 13A resistor, basically no-one makes untethered cables rated that low, why should they? so it then comes down to a simple test "is there a 32A resistor value present? If not, if there's a cable rated to 16A, that's ok, but if cable <16A give up & ignore it".
Or something similar. Resistor measuring circuit could be a bit inaccurate, = mfr fault.

You could check inside the Ohme that there's continuity of wires/circuit etc from PP on the Socket pin back to the circuitry. But DON'T do this if it breaks some warranty-seal, or if you;re not competent doing mains electrical testing. EVSE MUST be isolated before you go poking around inside!

Resistor values are 1500 Ohms for 13A, 680 Ohms for 20A, 220 Ohms for 32A, 100 Ohms for 63/70A but N/a here.
If you plug your type 2 in, withe EVSE ISOLATED, you should see 220 Ohms appear between Gnd & the wire from PP socket pin.
 
41 - 46 of 46 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top