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No, I couldn't. I charged at a station with no other cars. And it was a 22kw charger and the cable is the original Hyundai cable Made in Germany.
The charging company says it's the car's problem.
I'm so mad. I told Hyundai Denmark that either they find a solution for this or I share all the terrible things that happened to me on LinkedIn where I have quite a high influence.
Did you check that the cable is actually rated at 32A and marked as such? There have been several reports of Hyundai only supplying 16A or 20A original cables with new cars. They must have thought it to be a good way to get rid of some surplus stock...

This is what it should look like:
34322
 
Discussion starter · #22 ·
Did you check that the cable is actually rated at 32A and marked as such? There have been several reports of Hyundai only supplying 16A or 20A original cables with new cars. They must have thought it to be a good way to get rid of some surplus stock...

This is what it should look like:
View attachment 34322
I have the exact same cable as shown in your picture. It is a 32A.
 
Discussion starter · #23 ·
Did you check that the cable is actually rated at 32A and marked as such? There have been several reports of Hyundai only supplying 16A or 20A original cables with new cars. They must have thought it to be a good way to get rid of some surplus stock...

This is what it should look like:
View attachment 34322
Is that the good one or bad one? Can you charge with that cable properly?
 
Is that the good one or bad one? Can you charge with that cable properly?
That's the good one since it's labeled 32A. Just a few days ago I got 7.2 kW without problems with that cable at a public charger. (But beware. Some public chargers have been set for a lower power, though, even though they are labeled 22 kW.)

If you have the same cable, we can rule that out. It must be either the car or the charger. I think that the only thing you can do is to ask your dealer for help.
 
@SAL65 It's just possible the cable's been assembled wrongly, or mis-labelled. Get hold of a multimeter and use the Ohms scale to measure the resistance at both ends. The Earth pin is the big one in the very middle. The PP pin is one of the smaller ones. Usually these are labelled. Each end has a resistor fitted between PP and Earth. The Car plug tells the car what the cable rating is, and the EVSE end tells the EVSE what the cable rating is, obviously these should be the same!

The PP pins are not connected through the long cable, they are local to the plug & that's it. All the other wires go the whole way through.

For a 32A cable, you should see 220 Ohms between Earth & PP.
For a 16A cable (actually 20A, but used for 16A systems) you should see 680 Ohms.

If you see Millions of Ohms, you've probably measured between Earth & the CP pin, which is the other small pin close to the PP pin you need to check.

So if you see 680 at both ends, what you have is probably a 16A Cable that's been mis-labelled.
If you see 680 at one end and 220 at the other, it's had the wrong resistor fitted and is totally wrong!

But either of these mistakes will work safely, as the current is getting restricted to the 16A amount, either by the car not taking more than what it thinks is the cable's max, or by the EVSE not offering more than what it thinks the cable can take.
 
Discussion starter · #26 ·
That's the good one since it's labeled 32A. Just a few days ago I got 7.2 kW without problems with that cable at a public charger. (But beware. Some public chargers have been set for a lower power, though, even though they are labeled 22 kW.)

If you have the same cable, we can rule that out. It must be either the car or the charger. I think that the only thing you can do is to ask your dealer for help.
@andersmo Thanks. I tried several commercial chargers in Denmark. For example the Clever network but it's all the same. It starts at 7 and after a few seconds it goes down to 3.4 or 3.5.
 
Discussion starter · #27 ·
@SAL65 It's just possible the cable's been assembled wrongly, or mis-labelled. Get hold of a multimeter and use the Ohms scale to measure the resistance at both ends. The Earth pin is the big one in the very middle. The PP pin is one of the smaller ones. Usually these are labelled. Each end has a resistor fitted between PP and Earth. The Car plug tells the car what the cable rating is, and the EVSE end tells the EVSE what the cable rating is, obviously these should be the same!

The PP pins are not connected through the long cable, they are local to the plug & that's it. All the other wires go the whole way through.

For a 32A cable, you should see 220 Ohms between Earth & PP.
For a 16A cable (actually 20A, but used for 16A systems) you should see 680 Ohms.

If you see Millions of Ohms, you've probably measured between Earth & the CP pin, which is the other small pin close to the PP pin you need to check.

So if you see 680 at both ends, what you have is probably a 16A Cable that's been mis-labelled.
If you see 680 at one end and 220 at the other, it's had the wrong resistor fitted and is totally wrong!

But either of these mistakes will work safely, as the current is getting restricted to the 16A amount, either by the car not taking more than what it thinks is the cable's max, or by the EVSE not offering more than what it thinks the cable can take.
@SAL65 It's just possible the cable's been assembled wrongly, or mis-labelled. Get hold of a multimeter and use the Ohms scale to measure the resistance at both ends. The Earth pin is the big one in the very middle. The PP pin is one of the smaller ones. Usually these are labelled. Each end has a resistor fitted between PP and Earth. The Car plug tells the car what the cable rating is, and the EVSE end tells the EVSE what the cable rating is, obviously these should be the same!

The PP pins are not connected through the long cable, they are local to the plug & that's it. All the other wires go the whole way through.

For a 32A cable, you should see 220 Ohms between Earth & PP.
For a 16A cable (actually 20A, but used for 16A systems) you should see 680 Ohms.

If you see Millions of Ohms, you've probably measured between Earth & the CP pin, which is the other small pin close to the PP pin you need to check.

So if you see 680 at both ends, what you have is probably a 16A Cable that's been mis-labelled.
If you see 680 at one end and 220 at the other, it's had the wrong resistor fitted and is totally wrong!

But either of these mistakes will work safely, as the current is getting restricted to the 16A amount, either by the car not taking more than what it thinks is the cable's max, or by the EVSE not offering more than what it thinks the cable can take.
@HandyAndy Thanks. I do not have an Ohm meter but will try to find one and try what you said. It is really frustrating.
 
@SAL65, I don't know if you have any chargers like this in your area, but if you do, it won't hurt to try.

This charger has three tethered cables, two for DC-charging and one for AC-charging. Try the AC-cable. Since it's a 50 kW fast charger, you can be pretty sure that the AC-output has not been crippled, but can deliver whatever your car can accept.

 
Discussion starter · #29 ·
@SAL65, I don't know if you have any chargers like this in your area, but if you do, it won't hurt to try.

This charger has three tethered cables, two for DC-charging and one for AC-charging. Try the AC-cable. Since it's a 50 kW fast charger, you can be pretty sure that the AC-output has not been crippled, but can deliver whatever your car can accept.

@andersmo It would be a good idea. Thanks for that. Unfortunately, the electric charging infrastructure in Denmark is very limited, especially in the west. I have only tried a CCS DC charger and that worked well (charging at about 40 kw). But I have not tried an AC fast charger. I found one on the map in one of the towns nearby. I will go and check it and let you know.
 
@SAL65 It's just possible the cable's been assembled wrongly, or mis-labelled. Get hold of a multimeter and use the Ohms scale to measure the resistance at both ends. The Earth pin is the big one in the very middle. The PP pin is one of the smaller ones. Usually these are labelled. Each end has a resistor fitted between PP and Earth. The Car plug tells the car what the cable rating is, and the EVSE end tells the EVSE what the cable rating is, obviously these should be the same!

The PP pins are not connected through the long cable, they are local to the plug & that's it. All the other wires go the whole way through.

For a 32A cable, you should see 220 Ohms between Earth & PP.
For a 16A cable (actually 20A, but used for 16A systems) you should see 680 Ohms.

If you see Millions of Ohms, you've probably measured between Earth & the CP pin, which is the other small pin close to the PP pin you need to check.

So if you see 680 at both ends, what you have is probably a 16A Cable that's been mis-labelled.
If you see 680 at one end and 220 at the other, it's had the wrong resistor fitted and is totally wrong!

But either of these mistakes will work safely, as the current is getting restricted to the 16A amount, either by the car not taking more than what it thinks is the cable's max, or by the EVSE not offering more than what it thinks the cable can take.
Thank you, @HandyAndy, that's very useful information. I knew that there must be some way for the cable to communicate its rating to the car and/or the charger, but I didn't know exactly how it worked.

You're right, of course, that the cable might have been incorrectly made, mislabeled or is even faulty.

Anyway, I'm really curious to learn the cause of this problem. I don't think I've ever heard of a case where an Ioniq EV has developed a fault that would cut the AC-charging power in half. All similar cases I know of have been caused by either the cable or the charger.
 
Another possible way to confirm or reject a charge cable problem would be to go to a dealer and see if you can borrow, or they can charge at the dealership, a different cable, preferably one that has been proved to work correctly on another car.
 
Look what I received from Hyundai Denmark. This is absolutely foolish!!!

View attachment 34326
That's absolutely crazy, but at least you now have an explanation. I had no idea...

When the pandemic is over, you must come over to Sweden and try our chargers! (y)
 
Discussion starter · #34 ·
That's absolutely crazy, but at least you now have an explanation. I had no idea...

When the pandemic is over, you must come over to Sweden and try our chargers! (y)
Yes it is crazy. I am not sure that's even true. I asked him to provide me with the exact legislation on this.
They should have told me about this before buying the car.
I would love to come to Sweden after we all get vaccinated 🙏🙂
 
Hi all!
My organization has the Ioniq Electric 2017.
I wanted to charge it at CCS charging station, but realized that I can't do that!
The CCS part is covered and it is not possible to remove it unless the screws are taken out.
The diller said that they cant do anything - the car was like that from the factory.
What would be your advice?
34994
 
I assume that CCS was an option in your country, seems odd, unless there has been a fault and the dealer has just blanked it off!
I believe AC should charge at 7kW though if you charge it at a suitable AC post which would be faster (but still 4 hours for a full charge) unless 7kW was also an option in your market of course?
 
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It seems there is indeed no possibility to DC charge, maybe it could be ordered without the DC at that time?
The only thing you can do is AC charge the car, so I hope you don't have any place to go quickly. ;)
I really hope it was a mistake and it is possible to put a normal AC/DC charger.
I preparing for a 1200 km long trip (one way), so yes, I need DC option
 
I assume that CCS was an option in your country, seems odd, unless there has been a fault and the dealer has just blanked it off!
I believe AC should charge at 7kW though if you charge it at a suitable AC post which would be faster (but still 4 hours for a full charge) unless 7kW was also an option in your market of course?
CCS is an option here, so it is a shame to have an electric car, 50 kW chargers, and no possibility to charge the car.

Dillers have no idea what is CCS and why I came to them. explained to them in a simple way how CCS works and that I need this option. Will see what they can propose.
An option is to go to Romania and fix the car there, but again, need to know if it is possible technically.

Maybe there is a way to ask a factory about this?
 
Yes it is crazy. I am not sure that's even true. I asked him to provide me with the exact legislation on this.
They should have told me about this before buying the car.
Well, I'm sorry you feel disappointed, but I knew long before buying my Ioniq as you can easily find this documented all over the web in videos and articles as it applies to many BEVs, even FDM has figured it out.

It is correct that not achieving 22kW at a thus rated charger can indeed be a result of the car and its on-board-charger. However it should not come as any surprise that the power rating of an AC charger is not the rate at which the car can charge on AC. Just as a 150 or 350kW DC charger does not imply that your car is capable of charging at those speeds.

Relying on advice on BEVs as well as anything else apart from quoting a price or something is bound to end in disappointment at 95% of car dealerships. You have to do your own research... Often the salespeople are completely clueless even in regards to their ICE cars, so a BEV is like quantum physics for them.

And there's also nothing new about the 16 A 1-phase limit which indeed is true and is enforced for serious reasons.
A lot of 11kW or 22kW charge points (E.On), however, have the ability to combine phases and on those I have at work I average P>6 kW for an entire charge from 20% to 100% ( 3hours 35 minutes for approx. 23,5 kWh delivered).

For on-the-road charging AC charging has never been useful: It is for battery friendly overnight-charging or charging at a destination (workplace, hotel, etc).
For trips you plan for stops at the DC chargers. Your car can charge at above 60kW between 8 and 70% on Ionity UFC's - topping at about 69kW. I regularly achieve higher charging currents at those chargers than ie Teslas if their much larger battery packs are too cool. Also, you do not need to charge to 100/94% instead you DC-charge as necessary and then charge it again over night. Learning to make a route in the app A Better Route Planner will explain this better than text.


And as they probably also forgot ;-) to tell about the impact of winter temperatures:
 
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