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Where did you source your j1772 connector? Are you satisfied with the quality of the device? Are you satisfied with the vendor’s shipping time, etc.?

Now that Radio Shack and Fry’s Electronics are defunct, I guess I will also need to buy the resistor on line too. . . Where did you source that?
you can get the j1772 here:

and the resistors here:
 

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2022 Ioniq 5 Limited AWD Cyber Gray
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Built one up here in the USA as well - grand total of about $80 or so. I also had trouble with the terminals since the 12gauge extension cord I used is much smaller than the 6 or 8gauge the handle is designed for. My soldering iron WAS up to the task, so I just soldered to one interior side of the terminal (also after removing the O-rings, which I suspect are butyl and would melt).

Interesting side note here in the USA where the J1772 plug has a latch on it, which is held locked in place by the car. You DO need the power button between CC and CP, because if you just keep them shorted together, the car will never unlock the port and you'll never be able to unlatch the handle.

However, the latch on this unit is plastic and quite floppy, so you can press the thumb lever down all the way to hit the latch switch, even if the latch itself is still locked in place. Doing so shuts off power output (as a safety), and if power output is off, the port can be unlocked. So with the power button ON, you can still unplug this particular handle by pressing the latch hard, then unlocking the car, whereupon the car will unlock the port and the latch will spring up and open. Kinda dumb and not particularly useful, but I think fun and interesting.

View attachment 42356
How much for you to make me one and ship to California?
 

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That is weird. I bought that exact same J1772 plug from the same store and mine has a very solid metal lever for the locking mechanism like in the picture.

Did you get the 16 amp or the 32 amp version? I got the 32 amp version since it was the same price and I hoped it might be a little more solidly made.
 

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Where did you source your j1772 connector? Are you satisfied with the quality of the device? Are you satisfied with the vendor’s shipping time, etc.?

Now that Radio Shack and Fry’s Electronics are defunct, I guess I will also need to buy the resistor on line too. . . Where did you source that?
This is what I got: Level 2 EV 32A Charging Cable SAE J1772 Plug Replacement by EV + | eBay

The vendor is great, the product is fine. It uses a bunch of snaps so that it can't easily be disassembled, but the instructions about how to assemble it and how to avoid getting stuck on that are clear. Also, the biggest offender is the latch housing, which snaps together then can't be disassembled. But it ALSO screws together, so I cut the snaps off entirely and just used the screws, just for disassemblability. Works great.

I have a kit of 1% resistors kicking around, so I happened to have a 75ohm, a 100 ohm, and a 330ohm to get the requisite 430 and 75r values.
 

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That is weird. I bought that exact same J1772 plug from the same store and mine has a very solid metal lever for the locking mechanism like in the picture.

Did you get the 16 amp or the 32 amp version? I got the 32 amp version since it was the same price and I hoped it might be a little more solidly made.
Two different people replying. I bought from ebay, not aliexpress. Kinda wish I HAD gotten that 16A now, just because maybe the terminal cups would have been closer to 12 AWG in size. But I didn't want to wait for shipping from china.

How much for you to make me one and ship to California?
I'm not sure I want to unfortunately. It's annoyingly labor-intensive in one-off or two-off, and I'm not SUPER confident in my construction technique so I'd need to put more work into it (and get the proper crimping tools) until I was comfortable selling it. Then there's the whole assumption of liability selling it.

On the other hand though, I'm FAIRLY confident a NA-market knockoff will show up pretty soon. I only did the one for me so I could get on with selling my currently-valuable OEM connector before the knockoffs show up :)
 

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2022 Preferred AWD LR Ioniq 5
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How much for you to make me one and ship to California?
AOSK said they would make one soon:
I imagine shipping the parts and building something from AliExpress and waiting for them to release theirs will be a comparable wait. I might not have ordered parts if I knew they were working on it!

Edit: that URL is going crazy so just search AOSK and V2L or look at my recent activity.
Maybe this will work:
 

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Have done my T2V2L, leeching informations here, thanks for the tips guys.
How will you know when it is on? Is there a pilot light?
What is the plug socket with the orange cover?
What does leeching informations mean, and where is it?
 

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Have done my T2V2L, leeching informations here, thanks for the tips guys.
How will you know when it is on? Is there a pilot light?
What is the plug socket with the orange cover?
What does leeching informations mean, and where is it?
the button has a led light in it. will light when you press it.
 

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the button has a led light in it. will light when you press it.
OK, Thanks. I have one of the lighted push buttons referred to earlier in this forum but it has a metal case which means that its body must be earthed. Difficult to do when mounting it in a plastic housing. How have you managed to do this?
 

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Have done my T2V2L, leeching informations here, thanks for the tips guys.
How will you know when it is on? Is there a pilot light?
What is the plug socket with the orange cover?
What does leeching informations mean, and where is it?
Button has a led when powered on. It is plastic based not metal.
The orange socket is a 16A granted one, European plug. It has a kind of lock in security preventing unintentional unplugging.

By leeching I meant I was sniffing knowledge from this thread without participating
 

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Indeed this one

I'm wondering if we couldn't use a 12v DC led button instead of 220AC. Pilot wire is supposed to be 12v pwm. Could be safer than 220AC running on this little switch.
the switch is between PP and CP.
you can have a push button without a led light, and then no need for the 220 connection to L1 and N
 

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You could use a double pole switch. One pole to join PP & PC, the other pole to operate the LED from pilot to PE.
we will also probably need to add an R/C filter to smooth out the pwm to functional voltage.
But feel safer this way than running 220v wires near my fingers just for a led. :)
 

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we will also probably need to add an R/C filter to smooth out the pwm to functional voltage.
But feel safer this way than running 220v wires near my fingers just for a led. :)
I thought that the PWM came from a charger to tell the car what maximum current was available, not from the car?
 
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