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2022 Preferred AWD LR Ioniq 5
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To make things clear, tgecJ1772 that was posted has a very dhort neck so the off/on switch will be hard to impossible to fit. In my post you can see the marking on my J1772 plug. You should place it with a socket as far as posdible from the back of the charging plug. You should also put a shrink and glue the resistor.
One more tip. Drill the charging plug with a metal drill and not a wood drill. The wood drill creates debris around the hole.
If you use the same plug as I did, create 2 nitches on both sides of the front of handle so you will have a place to push a flat screwdriver and eject the plug if something happens. Also put some silicon grease around the front of the handle (inside) so you will have a soomth insertion and ejection of the plug.
Thanks for the tips! Why do you say place the power switch as far from the back as possible?
 

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I might not have tested this thoroughly, but I'm pretty sure you can click the switch "on" and just leave it that way, and plug and unplug the adapter as you like. In which case, the switch is "nice to have" but not strictly necessary.

Could be true that, if you hot-plug the Type 2 version, it simply won't ever start, so that you can't hot-unplug it.
Tested this just now - while you CAN hot PLUG the adapter, and it'll just take a moment, fire up, and start outputting, you cannot hot UNPLUG it, even in the USA where the J1772 latch could stop current before unplug. You MUST turn off the power switch before the car will unlock the port.
 

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Ioniq 5 Creative RWD LR
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ok: ) here is a square one. for 1-2$ i would order and see ...

i am adding some pics @aviryn added in an Israeli channel
AMAZING job, and kudos for the help to the community !

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Great DIY!
however how did you manage to fit the Volt Meter? the one you listed in the part list seems way too long to fit in the box
could you take a pic of how is inside the box?

also, would it be technically possible to place the switch AND the resistor in the same power outlet box instead of the charger connector?
thanks!
 

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Great DIY!
however how did you manage to fit the Volt Meter? the one you listed in the part list seems way too long to fit in the box
could you take a pic of how is inside the box?

also, would it be technically possible to place the switch AND the resistor in the same power outlet box instead of the charger connector?
thanks!
hi
to tell you the truth, i feel that the voltmeter is a "nice to have" feature. i would probably lose that in my implementation (waiting for all the parts to arrive).
you can put the resistor and the switch in the box, but then you will need the special cable that has the 3X2.5mm+2X0.5mm strings in it.
if you can get that cable, then i think it is feasible.
 

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I asked their online help what the maximum current of the double socket version is but the operator just replied with the '3kW' statement from the product listing.

I'm trying to find a solution that would allow me to use more than 10/13a and was hopeful this would be it, but I don't feel like blowing £200 on the off chance.
 

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I asked their online help what the maximum current of the double socket version is but the operator just replied with the '3kW' statement from the product listing.

I'm trying to find a solution that would allow me to use more than 10/13a and was hopeful this would be it, but I don't feel like blowing £200 on the off chance.
Their cables just mimic the stock adapter internally, so you're left with the limits the car itself imposes. That's [email protected] for a UK market car, or [email protected] for a north american car.

In the future, there will likely be a standard for V2H/V2G where an EVSE (cable or wall box) can communicate with the car (probably via powerline communication) to negotiate other current or voltage. There's plenty of evidence this was the design intent of E-GMP's V2L architecture. But whether and when such capability is introduced is conjecture.
 

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Their cables just mimic the stock adapter internally, so you're left with the limits the car itself imposes. That's [email protected] for a UK market car, or [email protected] for a north american car.
My UK adapter states a maximum of 16a and Hyundai's literature says 3.6kW, so that tallies.

The domestic plug you can connect to it is the limited factor as it's restricted.to 13a. It would have been better if they'd have offered the adapter with a 16a commando socket, which you can buy from the aforementioned website, but again, it's apparently limited to 3kW, so it's somewhat pointless.
 

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My UK adapter states a maximum of 16a and Hyundai's literature says 3.6kW, so that tallies.

The domestic plug you can connect to it is the limited factor as it's restricted.to 13a. It would have been better if they'd have offered the adapter with a 16a commando socket, which you can buy from the aforementioned website, but again, it's apparently limited to 3kW, so it's somewhat pointless.
That's probably right then, 16A - I do have NO clue why they did that though, considering it's entirely in service of obeying the outlet limits, and considering that they did so quite correctly for the north american market, they certainly could have in the UK as well. Pretty certain it's just firmware configuration with no physical hardware differences apart from the outlet itself.

I'd suggest though that 3kW is still plenty useful, even in a v2h-during-power-cut scenario. Just not nearly as useful as it COULD be if we had an AC V2G/V2H standard to work with, and you could just buy the right wallbox for $700 instead of $500 or whatever.
 

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I'd suggest though that 3kW is still plenty useful, even in a v2h-during-power-cut scenario. Just not nearly as useful as it COULD be if we had an AC V2G/V2H standard to work with, and you could just buy the right wallbox for $700 instead of $500 or whatever.
There's a V2G trial going on in the Netherlands right now involving some Ioniq 5's, so it's possible something will be available in the future, fingers crossed.
 

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There's a V2G trial going on in the Netherlands right now involving some Ioniq 5's, so it's possible something will be available in the future, fingers crossed.
Awesome info, thanks for that link! Also the test program sounds awesome.

In this next step, the 25 Ioniq 5 modified for the V2G test will be charged via a public charging point developed by We Drive Solar.
I'm hoping "modified" ONLY means that they gave the cars a low-power solar-harvesting mode, and maybe some fleet management software or something to make the car sharing fluid.
 

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230VAC Hand made V2L working flawlessly here in Pokeno, New Zealand, with our IONIQ 5.
Many thanks to all the online idea contributors.
Product Gas Electrical wiring Cable Technology


Street light Automotive tire Automotive lighting Surveillance camera Bicycle fork



Automotive tire Automotive lighting Motor vehicle Bicycle tire Bicycle part


Watch Rectangle Font Parallel Pattern

Type 2 plug from AliExpress
Stanley outlet box from Mitre10 (internal earth connection loose - needed fixing)
On/Off switch from Jaycar
10m extension cord (cut in half) from Mitre10
62 Ohm resistor from RS Components
5mm Heatshrink sleeve from Active Electrical
Questions?
 

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2022 Preferred AWD LR Ioniq 5
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230VAC Hand made V2L working flawlessly here in Pokeno, New Zealand, with our IONIQ 5.
Many thanks to all the online idea contributors.
View attachment 42335

View attachment 42336


View attachment 42337

View attachment 42338
Type 2 plug from AliExpress
Stanley outlet box from Mitre10 (internal earth connection loose - needed fixing)
On/Off switch from Jaycar
10m extension cord (cut in half) from Mitre10
62 Ohm resistor from RS Components
5mm Heatshrink sleeve from Active Electrical
Questions?
How did you attach the 16A wire to the L1/N? Can you show a picture?
 

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How did you attach the 16A wire to the L1/N? Can you show a picture?
I'm not going to take it all apart again but I can show you the ingredients.
BTW, as I have electrical bootlace ferrules and a crimper, I crimped the PC, PP pins as well as each end of the 62 Ohm resistor.
I soldered the switch terminals and the L1, N and PE (2 wires) pins. As I bought the 3 phase version of the Type-2 plug, I have 2 spare pins, shown in the picture. I made a wooden block to hold the terminals, used multicore solder and my wife's crème brûlée gas torch. My small soldering iron did not have enough energy. I also temporarily removed the silicone sealing rings from the terminals whilst soldering.
Table Adhesive Wood Household hardware Desk
 

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Built one up here in the USA as well - grand total of about $80 or so. I also had trouble with the terminals since the 12gauge extension cord I used is much smaller than the 6 or 8gauge the handle is designed for. My soldering iron WAS up to the task, so I just soldered to one interior side of the terminal (also after removing the O-rings, which I suspect are butyl and would melt).

Interesting side note here in the USA where the J1772 plug has a latch on it, which is held locked in place by the car. You DO need the power button between CC and CP, because if you just keep them shorted together, the car will never unlock the port and you'll never be able to unlatch the handle.

However, the latch on this unit is plastic and quite floppy, so you can press the thumb lever down all the way to hit the latch switch, even if the latch itself is still locked in place. Doing so shuts off power output (as a safety), and if power output is off, the port can be unlocked. So with the power button ON, you can still unplug this particular handle by pressing the latch hard, then unlocking the car, whereupon the car will unlock the port and the latch will spring up and open. Kinda dumb and not particularly useful, but I think fun and interesting.

Hood Automotive tire Automotive lighting Motor vehicle Bumper
 

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Built one up here in the USA as well - grand total of about $80 or so. I also had trouble with the terminals since the 12gauge extension cord I used is much smaller than the 6 or 8gauge the handle is designed for. My soldering iron WAS up to the task, so I just soldered to one interior side of the terminal (also after removing the O-rings, which I suspect are butyl and would melt).

Interesting side note here in the USA where the J1772 plug has a latch on it, which is held locked in place by the car. You DO need the power button between CC and CP, because if you just keep them shorted together, the car will never unlock the port and you'll never be able to unlatch the handle.

However, the latch on this unit is plastic and quite floppy, so you can press the thumb lever down all the way to hit the latch switch, even if the latch itself is still locked in place. Doing so shuts off power output (as a safety), and if power output is off, the port can be unlocked. So with the power button ON, you can still unplug this particular handle by pressing the latch hard, then unlocking the car, whereupon the car will unlock the port and the latch will spring up and open. Kinda dumb and not particularly useful, but I think fun and interesting.
Where did you source your j1772 connector? Are you satisfied with the quality of the device? Are you satisfied with the vendor’s shipping time, etc.?

Now that Radio Shack and Fry’s Electronics are defunct, I guess I will also need to buy the resistor on line too. . . Where did you source that?
 
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